ritzyluv:
This is what I saw this evening.
I was walking round the farm when due saw it

What's up with the puddle of water by the drip line? Isnt water too much on your soil? For the wilting challenge, I suspect fertilizer issues l, transplanting shock, or like seen in that image over irrigation!

ritzyluv:
This is what I saw this evening. I was walking round the farm when due saw it

Your soil does not drain well. It's overly obvious in the picture.. That's the cause since your plants can't breathe.

tpben:


Your soil does not drain well.
It's overly obvious in the picture..
That's the cause since your plants can't breathe.

Yes, I have observed it also, even on ridges the water still holds. I was irrigating my cucumber n I didn't know that line was still on.

Thank you all for the information.

.

Good job sir, you have touched every aspect of tomato farming except the fertilization (NPK). For us just starting without drip how do we fertilize. Although i already put DAP and MOP in the hole for rain to dissolve it before transplanting hope i wont burn my plant after transplant

I have not finished my Staking when a heavy wind n rain came 4 nights ago n made all the tomatoes fall to the ground. But they are getting up now n we are rushing the Staking to avoid another disaster

And I saw these fruits today

Please does anyone know a trusted and reliable drip irrigation kits seller here on nairaland or a shop in Ibadan. Thanks

vonxe:
Good job sir, you have touched every aspect of tomato farming except the fertilization (NPK). For us just starting without drip how do we fertilize. Although i already put DAP and MOP in the hole for rain to dissolve it before transplanting hope i wont burn my plant after transplant

if you watched how I applied fertilizer to cucumber, it thesame. I will post the video by weekend or latest next week. Never use mop before but I heard it is good, and you should use it when your tomato is about to set fruiting.

ritzyluv:
I have not finished my Staking when a heavy wind n rain came 4 nights ago n made all the tomatoes fall to the ground. But they are getting up now n we are rushing the Staking to avoid another disaster

I like your tomato spacing and your farm is neat. Don't joke with staking (hardest part in tomato farming) falling to ground Will Makes it attract fungi and bringing out unnecessarily branches. I will post video by weekend watch it you will get more insight. Distance between your Pole is like 250cm do you think it will work when the fruit is BIG? MY is 90cm-120cm apart.

ritzyluv:
And I saw these fruits today

nice one! Here is my own below @60 days today. It has set fruiting too.

Jub101:
Please does anyone know a trusted and reliable drip irrigation kits seller here on nairaland or a shop in Ibadan. Thanks

solakad has and is in ibadan.

Farmerakinloye6:
I like your tomato spacing and your farm is neat. Don't joke with staking (hardest part in tomato farming) falling to ground Will Makes it attract fungi and bringing out unnecessarily branches. I will post video by weekend watch it you will get more insight. Distance between your Pole is like 250cm do you think it will work when the fruit is BIG? MY is 90cm-120cm apart.

Yes, the Staking will hold and thank you very much sir

Goodday everyone, I created a survey for farmers on farmland security, kindly click the link below and fill the form if you come across it. Thank you

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfb_kxrpXthH1_qEJQR-ntcP797_O_Y-Z5hy7u4jP2EkZgCVg/viewform?usp=sf_link

Am in the market at the moment. Crate 5500, housa basket 11000 naira.

Interesting to see that the crate does not have to be full to the brim.

I noticed today that my tomatoes is having end-rot despite I started using calmag 2weeks ago. What else can I use or is the dosage am using not enough?
I couldn't snap, there is no space in my phone

Very important question!!!
@ritzyluv
@Farmerakinloye6
How much did you guys spent on staking?
Am doing three plots with a total of 4500 stands, Only bamboo will cost 30k, those who will slice the bamboo 10k, those who will erect the bamboo sticks 10k.

My proposed total for staking is 50k!!!
What is yours

DeLaRue:
Interesting to see that the crate does not have to be full to the brim.

it because there is no competition at moment, by ending tomato crate will start to enter market, and everybody will want it tomato to be sell quick, by then it will be full to the brim to attract buyers.

ritzyluv:
I noticed today that my tomatoes is having end-rot despite I started using calmag 2weeks ago. What else can I use or is the dosage am using not enough?
I couldn't snap, there is no space in my phone

too early for that now! Am not experiencing such. To my understanding you also apply 20:10:10 two weeks ago too(which is bad for vegetable) don't you think you are applying too much fertilizer to your tomato? I will keep saying "wrong handling of fertilizer, insecticide, manure and fungicide always cause trouble!!!"

vonxe:
Very important question!!!
@ritzyluv
@Farmerakinloye6
How much did you guys spent on staking?
Am doing three plots with a total of 4500 stands, Only bamboo will cost 30k, those who will slice the bamboo 10k, those who will erect the bamboo sticks 10k.

My proposed total for staking is 50k!!!
What is yours

is on the high side. Only me did everything last year (3plot). This year my boy cut the Baboo one day, we pieces it together one day and will erect it one day. I will help you to make enquiry from those that use Job to do it.

ritzyluv:
I noticed today that my tomatoes is having end-rot despite I started using calmag 2weeks ago. What else can I use or is the dosage am using not enough?
I couldn't snap, there is no space in my phone

I hope you didn't apply the calmag via only foliar application? Fertigation is your sure bet right now, calcium nitrate is also a good option, but for quick improvement, fertigation is the best option (either manual or via your irrigation system)
Don't always assume you have calcium in your soil, there's a reason why most tomato farmers don't joke with either liming or application of calcium based fertilizers. It improves the fruit skin thickness, and hence duration b4 rot

Farmerakinloye6:
Am in the market at the moment. Crate 5500, housa basket 11000 naira.

Boss you don enter market already

Good evening folks. I have a question pertaining crop rotation or is it not recommended in tomato farming ?. What crops can be interchanged with tomato every season ?

vonxe:
Very important question!!!
@ritzyluv
@Farmerakinloye6
How much did you guys spent on staking?
Am doing three plots with a total of 4500 stands, Only bamboo will cost 30k, those who will slice the bamboo 10k, those who will erect the bamboo sticks 10k.

My proposed total for staking is 50k!!!
What is yours

We have bamboo close to the farm so we just go there to cut

Farmerakinloye6:
too early for that now! Am not experiencing such. To my understanding you also apply 20:10:10 two weeks ago too(which is bad for vegetable) don't you think you are applying too much fertilizer to your tomato? I will keep saying "wrong handling of fertilizer, insecticide, manure and fungicide always cause trouble!!!"

I have only applied the 20:10:10 twice( 2 weeks interval). I used the camag once before I noticed the end-rot.
There is no 15:15:15 in my area(I heard it has been band here) that is why I used 20:10:10

Please what can I do?

ritzyluv:


I have only applied the 20:10:10 twice( 2 weeks interval). I used the camag once before I noticed the end-rot.
There is no 15:15:15 in my area(I heard it has been band here) that is why I used 20:10:10
Please what can I do?

20-10-10 is manageable in the early stages of tomato plants life. However, once the plants start showing signs of flowering, the high-nitrogen 20-10-10 should be replaced with a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus and lower nitrogen rate. This is also the time you should be getting ready to apply Calcium Nitrate.

When fruits start forming, then fertilize with slightly more potassium.

Dont wait until fruits are set before you start applying Calcium Nitrate otherwise blossom end rot will affect some of the tomatoes. Once a tomato fruit has BER, there's no remedy. By the way, I feel some tomato varieties are probably more susceptible than others. Something to think about in your next planting.

In your present situation, I advise you pluck affected tomatoes off the plants as soon as possible so the plants can grow new fruits quicker.

In order to prevent newer fruits from succumbing to BER, you need to up your Calcium Nitrate (preferable) or CalMag game.

CN applied through the roots is probably the best medium term option but it takes several days for plants fully absorb it, so not idea when urgency is a factor. A faster option would be to mix at a ratio of 1 tablespoon CN in 4 litres of water and spray on top and under the plant leaves. If you're using a 12 litre pump, that would be 3 tablespoon. Don't heap the spoons as that will take you above the recommended dose which can result in leaf burn and harm your plant.

All the best.

DeLaRue:


20-10-10 is manageable in the early stages of tomato plants life. However, once the plants start showing signs of flowering, the high-nitrogen 20-10-10 should be replaced with a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus and lower nitrogen rate. This is also the time you should be getting ready to apply Calcium Nitrate.

Dont wait until fruits are set before you start applying Calcium Nitrate otherwise blossom end rot will affect some of the tomatoes. Once a tomato fruit has BER, there's no remedy. By the way, I feel some tomato varieties are probably more susceptible than others. Something to think about in your next planting.

In order to prevent newer fruits from succumbing to BER, you need to up your Calcium Nitrate (preferable) or CalMag game.

CN applied through the roots is probably the best medium term option but it takes several days for plants fully absorb it, so not idea when urgency is a factor. A faster option would be to mix at a ratio of 1 tablespoon CN in 4 litres of water and spray on top and under the plant leaves. If you're using a 12 litre pump, that would be 3 tablespoon. Don't heap the spoons as that will take you above the recommended dose which can result in leaf burn and harm your plant.

All the best.

I put grinded Limestone powder (Lime) as a basal fertilizer?
Will it do what calmag or CN would do?

If yes, i put 120kg of lime in half acre, is the quantity enough?

DeLaRue:


20-10-10 is manageable in the early stages of tomato plants life. However, once the plants start showing signs of flowering, the high-nitrogen 20-10-10 should be replaced with a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus and lower nitrogen rate. This is also the time you should be getting ready to apply Calcium Nitrate.

Dont wait until fruits are set before you start applying Calcium Nitrate otherwise blossom end rot will affect some of the tomatoes. Once a tomato fruit has BER, there's no remedy. By the way, I feel some tomato varieties are probably more susceptible than others. Something to think about in your next planting.

In your present situation, I advise you pluck affected tomatoes off the plants as soon as possible so the plants can grow new fruits quicker.

In order to prevent newer fruits from succumbing to BER, you need to up your Calcium Nitrate (preferable) or CalMag game.

CN applied through the roots is probably the best medium term option but it takes several days for plants fully absorb it, so not idea when urgency is a factor. A faster option would be to mix at a ratio of 1 tablespoon CN in 4 litres of water and spray on top and under the plant leaves. If you're using a 12 litre pump, that would be 3 tablespoon. Don't heap the spoons as that will take you above the recommended dose which can result in leaf burn and harm your plant.

All the best.

Thank you very much. So which fertilizer can I use that has higher phosphorus in case of next time?

vonxe:


I put grinded Limestone powder (Lime) as a basal fertilizer?
Will it do what calmag or CN would do?

If yes, i put 120kg of lime in half acre, is the quantity enough?

Lime is supposed to boost calcium availability for plants, so yes, it can be a good alternative to CN.

Your Soil's PH should determine how much Lime to use, but since most of us don't do soil test, the quantity used is usually down to guess work. Generally speaking, if your farm is in a very high rainfall area, a more generous application may be needed.

ritzyluv:


Thank you very much. So which fertilizer can I use that has higher phosphorus in case of next time?

Phosphorus is essential for boosting tomato flowering, but there's usually enough of it in a balanced (e.g 15-15-15) NPK fertilizer that you probably don't need to worry about buying a high phosphorus blend. The issue with your current fertilizer is that it is not balanced - the Nitrogen content is too high (relative to the phosphorus and potassium) for the flowering and fruiting stages of tomato plants.

Please re-read my original content, as I have added a potassium element. A high potassium fertilizer is more relevant to you as a tomato farmer in Nigeria than using additional phosphorus as, in most cases, the latter will not be necessary. Potassium on the other hand is key to high yield. If you want to go down this route, try and replace your current fertilizer with a balanced one (eg 15-15-15) and add some extra potassium nitrate or muriate of potash (MOP) now that your plants are starting to fruit. I don't like MOP personally, but it's an option.

I hope to post pictures of my tomato plants later today. Hopefully, FarmerAkinloye would not mind.