Myfinewine:
Car:Toyota matrix 2010.
I noticed my car has been jerking randomly and doesn’t speed well after the check engine light came up I took it to my mechanic he checked the fuel pump,nozzle,plugs and said everything was okay. The car didn’t jerk when he test run it. So he scanned it and said what came up was the Coil. He now wiped it and the check engine light said if it comes up that i should i bring it so he can change the coil. Please can that really be the cause?? The check engine sign is back on my dashboard.
Cc: GAZZUZZ

GAZZUZZ:

Engine? Transmission? Abs?

eddiense:
Car 2005 BMW 318
Engine E46 4 plug

GAZZUZZ Help me;

After changing the turtle Atuator the EML light gone and my car still do not accelerate above 30mph.

The car was scanned with lunch device and no code came up.

The car starts at one kick and idles very well. It also drives fine if you do not go above 20mph

Am suspecting the ECU is bad.

cc:
GAZZUZZ

GAZZUZZ:


Engine Revs fine in park position?

Michael781:





GAZZUZZ
I’m a young man
And I need car
My capital is 2M
And I have in mind for a TOYOTA CAMRY SPYDER or a ES LEXUS 350

Please will it be enough!?

I don’t care if it’s Nigerian used or to jumbo
Just something that can last

GAZZUZZ:

Engine Revs fine in park position?

eddiense:


Engine idles fine and revs but do not exceed 3mph

DMechy:


For your budget, to get a good one, you might have to increase your budget.

Check Jiji, you will see how much the vehicles are listed for.

Lastly dont buy without having the vehicle inspected.

Michael781:

Increase budget to like how much sir?

Michael781:





Increase budget to like how much sir?

Michael781:





GAZZUZZ
I’m a young man
And I need car
My capital is 2M
And I have in mind for a TOYOTA CAMRY SPYDER or a ES LEXUS 350

Please will it be enough!?

I don’t care if it’s Nigerian used or to jumbo
Just something that can last

DMechy:


Olist, Jiji, Cheki.

Just search for the car you want. You could actually get for lower than your budget. But a good one, will probably be higher.

Also, ensure the vehicle is inspected before buying, so you wont end up with a lemon.

You can reach out for inspection .

Amono:




No wonder he is all over the thread.

GAZZUZZ:


Difficult to tell you what to do, switching back from mineral to synthetic oils have been known to cause undesirable results like smoking, and oil burn.

I will however suggest a gradual switch using Mobil super 5w40 . Oil changes at 3000miles.

Dahreformer2666:



Please what did you mean by gradual switching sir ? And please did you have any ideal of what might be the cause of the car to feel like it when to stop but it won't please, I'm scared, I don't want the engine to damage again like the first time

lmm4real:
Pls I need interpretation for this scanning fault Raised. It's a pugeot Boxer 2005.

The heater elements have a central relay that is currently not working. the relay its self could be bad, the fuse to relays might be bad. You need to check the circuit. Starting will be impossible in this situation without snuffing

Pressure regulator sensor either has wiring issues, or wrong part installed. Check pressure regulator harness, it is situated on the fuel rail with injectors .

GAZZUZZ:


Kindly repost, unable to make meaning of the sentence

Dahreformer2666:




Okay, what I meant is , please what are you mean by gradual switching to mobil oil ?

GAZZUZZ:


you currently use mineral oil. There is a slim chance you might have sludge deposits .

GDI engines generally use very thin oil (0w20, 5w20,) and synthetic oils are always recommend.

Synthetic oils generally clean sludge deposits rapidly which could cause engine failure caused by strainer blockage.



So use my recommendation, it will gradually break down sludge (if any) and not rapidly .

GAZZUZZ:


you currently use mineral oil. There is a slim chance you might have sludge deposits .

GDI engines generally use very thin oil (0w20, 5w20,) and synthetic oils are always recommend.

Synthetic oils generally clean sludge deposits rapidly which could cause engine failure caused by strainer blockage.

So use my recommendation, it will gradually break down sludge (if any) and not rapidly .

GAZZUZZ:


you currently use mineral oil. There is a slim chance you might have sludge deposits .

GDI engines generally use very thin oil (0w20, 5w20,) and synthetic oils are always recommend.

Synthetic oils generally clean sludge deposits rapidly which could cause engine failure caused by strainer blockage.

So use my recommendation, it will gradually break down sludge (if any) and not rapidly .

Dahreformer2666:



Please, is this the right oil you suggested,?

GAZZUZZ:


Yes. E get why.

Observer007:
MY ES300 ON ITS 4TH ALTERNATOR!! PLEASE HELP!!

Hello GAZZUZZ, I recently had to replace my alternator after I confirmed with my 'rewire' guy that the old one which came with the car was faulty as my battery was tested okay (still relatively new, under one year) but alternator was not charging at all.

My issue is that we have had to install exactly three (3) different tokunbo alternators, but as at the 2nd count, all had low charging voltage (ranging from 12.8v to 13.0v with max load -- a/c, full headlights, radio and wipers). This increases to about 13.4v with almost no load.

The current toks alternator (3rd) is slightly better, as the Ladipo supplier had to bring a Sienna VVTi spec alternator which he claims has a higher power rating compared to the previous two we'd installed so far.

However, after installing we checked and only got about 13.1v/13.2v with max load, but I had read somewhere that the ideal charging voltage should be around 13.8v with max load and over 14v without.

So at present the alternator light isn't coming up and it seems to work fine, but with the last testing result I am still not at ease, therefore, I'm not very confident using my a/c continuously because of the fear that the battery light may appear again, indicating an underperforming alternator.

I use the a/c intermittently and anytime I am to shut down the engine I always turn OFF a/c if it was ON, and revv the car a bit @ 2,000 rpm for 10 seconds to give the battery a good charge before turning off car.

Note that, they also checked the earthing (ground) system of the car and for leakages but didn't find any fault.

What possible solution for this problem please?

DMechy:


Is the battery mil light on while car is running?

13.5 -15v for a loaded system is great.

How did you do your load test?

Right way:
- Keep all accessories on.
- Raise RPM to 2 to 2.5 very important
- Test the voltage at the battery terminals.

Things you should check.
- Your alternator belt, is it well tensioned.
- You already talked about having good grounds

Test this.
* All accessories on, ac, wiper, radio, headlamps
* Vehicle rpm steadied between 2 to 2.5
- Put voltmeter positive lead on battery positive and negative on alternator body.

Anything above 0.1 volts indicates a bad ground.

This video should help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGz0PKIl84

DMechy:


Is the battery mil light on while car is running?

13.5 -15v for a loaded system is great.

How did you do your load test?

Right way:
- Keep all accessories on.
- Raise RPM to 2 to 2.5 very important
- Test the voltage at the battery terminals.

Things you should check.
- Your alternator belt, is it well tensioned.
- You already talked about having good grounds

Test this.
* All accessories on, ac, wiper, radio, headlamps
* Vehicle rpm steadied between 2 to 2.5
- Put voltmeter positive lead on battery positive and negative on alternator body.

Anything above 0.1 volts indicates a bad ground.

This video should help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGz0PKIl84

Observer007:
MY ES300 ON ITS 4TH ALTERNATOR!! PLEASE HELP!!

Hello GAZZUZZ , I recently had to replace my alternator after I confirmed with my 'rewire' guy that the old one which came with the car was faulty as my battery was tested okay (still relatively new, under one year) but alternator was not charging at all.

My issue is that we have had to install exactly three (3) different tokunbo alternators, but as at the 2nd count, all had low charging voltage (ranging from 12.8v to 13.0v with max load -- a/c, full headlights, radio and wipers). This increases to about 13.4v with almost no load.

The current toks alternator (3rd) is slightly better, as the Ladipo supplier had to bring a Sienna VVTi spec alternator which he claims has a higher power rating compared to the previous two we'd installed so far.

However, after installing we checked and only got about 13.1v/13.2v with max load, but I had read somewhere that the ideal charging voltage should be around 13.8v with max load and over 14v without.

So at present the alternator light isn't coming up and it seems to work fine, but with the last testing result I am still not at ease, therefore, I'm not very confident using my a/c continuously because of the fear that the battery light may appear again, indicating an underperforming alternator.

I use the a/c intermittently and anytime I am to shut down the engine I always turn OFF a/c if it was ON, and revv the car a bit @ 2,000 rpm for 10 seconds to give the battery a good charge before turning off car.

Note that, they also checked the earthing (ground) system of the car and for leakages but didn't find any fault.

What possible solution for this problem please?

GAZZUZZ:


The heater elements have a central relay that is currently not working.bthebrelaybits self could be bad, the fuse to relays might be bad. You need to check the circuit. Starting will be impossible in this situation without snuffing

Pressure regulator sensor either has wiring issues, or wrong part installed. Check pressure regulator harness, it is situated on the fuel rail with injectors .

GAZZUZZ:


last 2 times I had alternator issues with Es300, solution was to run a new ground wire from alternator body to battery Negative.

For the explanation above, there is a correction .


Put voltmeter positive lead on battery positive Negative and negative on alternator body

Observer007:



Noted. But by running a ground wire, do you mean a seperate wiring entirely? I'm just aiming to avoid anything that messes up the electrical system of the car or results in a negative effect.