Piyke:


Hmmm...Don't have an idea of these could be, as you have covered the basic things which I know. May be you could create a new thread to give is better visibility, so that Siena, Gazzuzz et al can weigh in. Depending on if the wear is on the outer or inner part of the tire it could mean something. I guess you've tried to jack the tire and shake in vertical and horizontal axes?

I hv tried all that. An oga mechanic just tried it. He was shocked too and said he never heard anything like it. He greased some parts again and asked me to test. I wont know now till the sun is down. Once again am doing Wheel balancing and alignment. Thanks.

Piyke:


I forgot to add that the creaking noise I talked about, occurred only while the steering wheel is turned to either side

I know that one, i have experienced that with my office toyota prado. Mine happens on straight or small turns and very inconsistent. I have a positive feeling that the problem has been nipped with the grease.

Maintenance Culture...

I personally believe this quote:

Respect your vehicle and your vehicle will respect you


- Its best to always sought out issues in cars as they arise. This way, you nip things in the bud and prevent complications.


OEM or Aftermarket part?
For some faults I use reputable aftermarket parts while for others, it must be OEM. For the transmission, spark plugs, o2 sensors, fuel pump, ball joints etc., only OEM will do. Cost is another criteria, however I never sacrifice quality for cost in these and other systems I consider vital. Eg. OEM Iridium spark plugs cost me N12,000 but I know I won't be changing it for a long while. Manual says replace every 105,000miles.

Never use a Kazeem
I need not say more. Spotting a Kazeem is not difficult Thermostat delete etc. are markers

Driving Style...

I generally avoid spirited starts or acceleration (as if you're in a car chase scenario or trying to get a 0-60mph record) except if necessary.

I aim to keep my RPM under 2500 at the highest speed possible. This gives me the best fuel economy. However there are times I overstep the boundaries to get things done.

Piyke:
Driving Style...

I generally avoid spirited starts or acceleration (as if you're in a car chase scenario or trying to get a 0-60mph record) except if necessary.

I aim to keep my RPM under 2500 at the highest speed possible. This gives me the best fuel economy. However there are times I overstep the boundaries to get things done.

Thats were you and I differ. I get between 3000-4000rpm on first gear every time i hit the highway and when overtaking. The acceleration thrills me everytime. I wish i had a v6 without the extra gas.

adanny01:


Thats were you and I differ. I get between 3000-4000rpm on first gear every time i hit the highway and when overtaking. The acceleration thrills me everytime. I wish i had a v6 without the extra gas.

I also hit high RPMs when overtaking o. I aim at keeping it below 2500rpm when cruising but exceed as needed eg overtaking. However I don't exceed from a stop...usually

People and Cargo...

I generally do what the manual says. I don't carry more than 3 people on the rear seats Guess that may add to why I'm still on the shocks the car came with and they are still strong.

I also try to avoid overloading the boot, though sometimes I may err during the festive seasons...Trust madam, wants to pack everything

Upcoming Fixes...

1. Valve cover gasket change. Current one is leaky
2. Will use the opportunity to do a valve clearance check/adjustment
3. Replacement of driver door actuator. Current one works intermittently

Piyke:
Upcoming Fixes...

1. Valve cover gasket change. Current one is leaky
2. Will use the opportunity to do a valve clearance check/adjustment
3. Replacement of driver door actuator. Current one works intermittently

So I've DIYed the valve cover gasket replacement and also checked valve clearances. No adjustments were needed. Haven't yet got the time to do the driver door actuator, but will.

Replacing the valve cover gasket and the VTC filter assembly has ended my oil shortages! I no longer need to top up at all even with all my highway driving. The lesson I learned from this is that even though your leaks may not seem major (I was only having few drops on the floor), it can actually be major. Guess the hot exterior of the engine was evaporating most of the leaked oil.

really nice thread. more grease to your elbow.

Smartkids:
really nice thread. more grease to your elbow.

Thanks, now at 203,000miles!

Piyke:


Thanks, now at 203,000miles!

additional 3k just now? Kai, u too waka. Are u a normad?

right now, does your transmission still shift smoothly?

Inception:
right now, does your transmission still shift smoothly?

Very smooth my brother.
I think over-gauging ATF is one of the major factors affecting longevity. Saw one guy adding more ATF to his already over-filled transmission. It took my advice for him not to do so. His reason for wanting to do so was because the transmission failed recently and he had just replaced it. Guess he thought more oil is good.

chukel:
additional 3k just now? Kai, u too waka. Are u a normad?

Hehehe. I do loads of highway driving

Piyke:


So I've DIYed the valve cover gasket replacement and also checked valve clearances. No adjustments were needed. Haven't yet got the time to do the driver door actuator, but will.

Replacing the valve cover gasket and the VTC filter assembly has ended my oil shortages! I no longer need to top up at all even with all my highway driving. The lesson I learned from this is that even though your leaks may not seem major (I was only having few drops on the floor), it can actually be major. Guess the hot exterior of the engine was evaporating most of the leaked oil.

I noticed something similar with a different brand of car.

After washing the under of the car, to fight mud that might accelerate rust, I noticed that the engine front cover gasket leaks slightly, so I came to the conclusion that it is not synthetic oil that is shorting my engine oil but that.

Needless to say, I will arrange to replace it soon.

Am simply agreeing with your position.

I have had to top 2 litres and so far I have done 12,000 miles out of a planned 15,000 miles on my Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance. So small leaks are not necessarily that small, because overtime, small adds up.

I've seen Benz of 750k kilometers

* Spreads mat *

Pyke, please what are the recommended plugs and ATF for 2004 accord

chukel:
Pyke, please what are the recommended plugs and ATF for 2004 accord

ATF is Honda DW1

plug are:
NGK: IZFR6K-11, Denso SKJ20DR-M11

Some models use NGK:IZFR6K-13, Denso:SKJ20DR-M13

Piyke:


ATF is Honda DW1

plug are:
NGK: IZFR6K-11, Denso SKJ20DR-M11

Some models use NGK:IZFR6K-13, Denso:SKJ20DR-M13

thanks

Burger01:
I've seen Benz of 750k kilometers

* Spreads mat *

That's cool, guess not in Nigeria. Or was it?

Piyke:


That's cool, guess not in Nigeria. Or was it?

For naija o my brother. Lasgidi!

One thing I would like to sort out on this ride. Its been there ever since I owned it or got my scanner I should say... There are no readings on the O2 B1S1 when running livedata. On my own scanner, the O2 B1S1 output doesn't not show up let alone having readings. I only see outputs for O2 B1S2. On a different scanner I tried, the O2 B1S1 didn't have readings. So its not a scanner thing. My scanner has access to engine, SRS, ABS and transmission. Car moves fine, no check engine lights.
Haven't really seen much on this online. I'm beginning to think it has to do with the OBD II port

Siena, Gazzuzz, CityNG et al I need your help

NB: 2.4L 4cyl 2003 Accord LX. Auto transmission.

CityNG deactivated long ago... Some cars have only 1 pair of emission sensor B1S1, B2S1 some have 2 pairs B1S1 B1S2, B2S1, B2S2... Those with 2Pair ars consisting of one A/F sensor and one O2 Sensor per bank, when you do the math, you'll discover its 2 o2 sensors and 2 A/F sensors in all which are kept in pair for each bank. Those with 2 pairs are for Cities with strict emission laws and these sensors in conjunction with other components qualifies the car to be a ULEV or SLEV vehicle.

lomomike:
CityNG deactivated long ago... Some cars have only 1 pair of emission sensor B1S1, B2S1 some have 2 pairs B1S1 B1S2, B2S1, B2S2... Those with 2Pair ars consisting of one A/F sensor and one O2 Sensor per bank, when you do the math, you'll discover its 2 o2 sensors and 2 A/F sensors in all which are kept in pair for each bank. Those with 2 pairs are for Cities with strict emission laws and these sensors in conjunction with other components qualifies the car to be a ULEV or SLEV vehicle.

Yea. But I know this car has an AF sensor aka B1S1. Didn't know CityNG had deactivated, hope it was in good faith? Calling more Honda warriors for more responses; Adanny01, Abatically...

Piyke:
One thing I would like to sort out on this ride. Its been there ever since I owned it or got my scanner I should say... There are no readings on the O2 B1S1 when running livedata. On my own scanner, the O2 B1S1 output doesn't not show up let alone having readings. I only see outputs for O2 B1S2. On a different scanner I tried, the O2 B1S1 didn't have readings. So its not a scanner thing. My scanner has access to engine, SRS, ABS and transmission. Car moves fine, no check engine lights.
Haven't really seen much on this online. I'm beginning to think it has to do with the OBD II port

Siena, Gazzuzz, CityNG et al I need your help

NB: 2.4L 4cyl 2003 Accord LX. Auto transmission.

lomomike and yourself are correct. Our cars 2003 accord has an Air fuel (A/F) ratio sensor on B1S1 and Oxygen sensor on B1S2. Our V6 counter parts have B1S1/B2S1 as A/F ratio sensor and B1S2/B2S2 as Oxygen sensors.

There are 2 types of oxygen sensors that i know; normal oxygen and A/F ratio/Lambda sensors. Newer cars like ours have A/F ratio/Lambda sensors as precat and oxygen sensor as post cat. The 2 dont function exactly the same way so the scanner wont mistake one for the other. However, as long as you are on closed loop, the A/F sensor is fine. One other thing i have noticed is that i have live data on O2S1_WR_lambda Ratio and O2S1_WR_lambda I. So check for other sensor parameters other than oxygen sensor, you'll definitely have live data.

Take a look at the first parameter in the first sc shot, it says Oxygen sensors present, the number seem to be 1. The A/F sensor may function as a Lambda sensor but definitely not like an oxygen sensor. O2 sensors are displayed live by OBD II devices in voltages while A/F displays in Lambda = 1 for a perfect stoichiometric ratio. Lambda above 1 is lean and below is rich. The second data is live current data which is zero at stoic, lean when positive and rich when it shows negative. The A/F is a modification of O2 sensor. Thats why your scanner wont see your A/F sensor as an oxygen sensor. The O2 sensor is a narrow band and the A/F ratio/Lambda sensors are wide band O2 sensors. The latter is more accurate in reading oxygen contents than the former.

adanny01:


lomomike and yourself are correct. Our cars 2003 accord has an Air fuel (A/F) ratio sensor on B1S1 and Oxygen sensor on B1S2. Our V6 counter parts have B1S1/B2S1 as A/F ratio sensor and B1S2/B2S2 as Oxygen sensors.

There are 2 types of oxygen sensors that i know; normal oxygen and A/F ratio/Lambda sensors. Newer cars like ours have A/F ratio/Lambda sensors as precat and oxygen sensor as post cat. The 2 dont function exactly the same way so the scanner wont mistake one for the other. However, as long as you are on closed loop, the A/F sensor is fine. One other thing i have noticed is that i have live data on O2S1_WR_lambda Ratio and O2S1_WR_lambda I. So check for other sensor parameters other than oxygen sensor, you'll definitely have live data.

Take a look at the first parameter in the first sc shot, it says Oxygen sensors present, the number seem to be 1. The A/F sensor may function as a Lambda sensor but definitely not like an oxygen sensor. O2 sensors are displayed live by OBD II devices in voltages while A/F displays in Lambda = 1 for a perfect stoichiometric ratio. Lambda above 1 is lean and below is rich. The second data is live current data which is zero at stoic, lean when positive and rich when it shows negative. The A/F is a modification of O2 sensor. Thats why your scanner wont see your A/F sensor as an oxygen sensor. The O2 sensor is a narrow band and the A/F ratio/Lambda sensors are wide band O2 sensors. The latter is more accurate in reading oxygen contents than the former.

Thanks Adanny, it now sinks in, guess I also missed the point Lomomike was trying to make earlier. I'm not seeing O2 B1S1 because the car doesn't have an O2 sensor in that position. I know there's one other output pertaining to the AF sensor. would check it out on my next scan. Thanks guys.

Piyke:
Changed warped rotors to stop a vibrating brake pedal when braking...Used naija sourced rotors this time...You can't import every thing you know... This was in 2011

Good maintenance was carried out on the car. Keep it up.

kaeforum:


Good maintenance was carried out on the car. Keep it up.

Thanks

When last did you do an ATF change? For the 03-07 Accord, this should be every 2years or 30k mile intervals whichever comes first. Just did mine some 3 weeks now and you can catch the whole DIY procedure here: http://www.diyautoworksng.com/atf-change-on-the-2003-2007-accord/). My post also includes my little twist on the refill process!

I had just started having some hardness shifting out of park (happened trice), that quickly reminded me that my maintenance was due (2yrs+ from last change). Once through with the change, all shifting is effortless as usual! No hardness anymore

Don't wreck your transmission, be preventive!

Now 211k miles...

Piyke:
Now 211k miles...

How much did you buy the scanner please?