This week (by Gods grace) my 2003 4cyl Honda Accord will surpass 200,000miles. Its still going strong (no transmission or engine knock), thanks to God, good maintenance and avoiding all Kazeems

As unpopular as some may consider this, my next car would be a Honda! Love it!

Will try and get a screenshot at the 200,000miles mark.

I intend to highlight some of the maintenance I did through the years and also seek help from the pros as my Accord maintenance schedule (in the manual) ends at 180,000miles . So from now on, I'm on my own.

Screen shot below was 2 days ago, now its just 14 miles shy.

NB: I know many cars exceed 200k miles, just celebrating mine

THE POWER OF DREAMS!

My Honda Baby boy is at 281000,still strong and reliable!

impressive. congrats. show us pictures of this ur ride. u can hide the number if u wish. this is commendable. i have followed all ur DIYs.

poca4real:
My Honda Baby boy is at 281000,still strong and reliable!

wow!!! Have you done any transmission or engine change?

av a friend whose accord is at 346k miles, I actually screamed wen I saw it.I tnk he bought it at around 220 - 230k miles.....2004 accord...transmission still going strong. ...neva had d dreaded ball joint leg break issue....only tin he has done was change engine oil nd shocks once nd tyres.car still a speed monster on d road..nd no chk engine.

So I got to the magical moment and cleared by the roadside to get a pic

Some history....

Got the car 6 years ago, Tokunbo with 153k miles. Knew nothing about cars but just settled for this based on the little internet search I did. The other possible option was 03 Camry but I didn't like it's seemingly overblown rear (my opinion).

On deal day, I went with my trusted family mechanic, he did a number of checks (including sniffing the transmission dipstick. I was like wetin this one dey do Now I know better) and we took it for a spin. The guy just kept on saying Machine...Machine

I paid and got the car!

I noticed ur tank was almost full at 199903 miles....now 97miles afta u av bought full tank again. ...dis man wher u dy see fuel wit dis scarcity wey dey all over?

congrats on d 200k achievement!

dokilolo:
I noticed ur tank was almost full at 199903 miles....now 97miles afta u av bought full tank again. ...dis man wher u dy see fuel wit dis scarcity wey dey all over?

congrats on d 200k achievement!

so funny how fuel scarcity made you notice his fuel gauge. . Maybe he's a fuel marketer o


I love these testimonies @ op

dokilolo:
I noticed ur tank was almost full at 199903 miles....now 97miles afta u av bought full tank again. ...dis man wher u dy see fuel wit dis scarcity wey dey all over?

congrats on d 200k achievement!

I was about asking the same question, scarcity no dey your side. I spent 3hrs again yesterday on queue in abj.

dokilolo:
I noticed ur tank was almost full at 199903 miles....now 97miles afta u av bought full tank again. ...dis man wher u dy see fuel wit dis scarcity wey dey all over?

congrats on d 200k achievement!

adanny01:

I was about asking the same question, scarcity no dey your side. I spent 3hrs again yesterday on queue in abj.

I did a trip to Delta State and saw a Total filling station virtually empty. Had to seize the opportunity because of the scarcity .

Took this photo a month ago. Really impressed. Car still going strong in Lagos.

emekan:
Took this photo a month ago. Really impressed. Car still going strong in Lagos.

Excellent!!!

Continuing... (Been busy with work lately)

Major Repairs

I have not really had a major repair. The car has never stopped me on the road for any reason. I will itemise as much I can remember the repairs I've done and the reasons for such where necessary. These will follow in the next posts...

1st Repair and my experience with 2 Kazeems

This occurred in 2009. Simply put, my car went into limp mode and couldn't exceed 3000RPM and it happened immediately after I bought petrol from a particular filling station (I was in a North-East state at the time).

I made calls to a trusted mechanic who suggested I may have water in my tank, but that wasn't the case. A mechanic did a scan and I think it got a P2647 or so, but something VTEC/rocker arm related. I knew little about diagnostics then but I made sure I got the code from the mechanic. Some other mechanic told me it was my fuel pump and we tried to put in a China made fuel pump...It couldn't even crank my engine Sure he didn't get the right one, we returned it.
The 1st Kazeem
This guy was Hausa and said "Oga walayi no be fuel fump ma, na sensor froblem" I was excited I found someone who could fix it. But alas! he just used paper to block the inlet to my IACV my idle tanked but I drove it for some days but had to take it back to him to reverse his evil fix. On a lighter note, I had to even take an interpreter along as I couldn't communicate fluently in Hausa .
2nd Kazeem
I drove 300 plus miles to Abuja to meet a "reputable Honda guy" (CEL vanished during my journey to ABJ)
He hooked up his scanner and told me I need to change my fuel pump. I bought the entire pump assembly from Ebay and did it myself. In addition, I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the connector to the VTEC oil pressure switch. The problem never came back. I call this second guy an educated Kazeem because looking back now, to establish a bad fuel pump using a scanner you need to run live data and observe the fuel trims at idle and at raised RPM. He didn't do any of these and made me replace my fuel pump! The poor contact of the pressure switch was the problem

Power Steering Rebuild in 2013

Not that my PS failed, it was leaking fluid due to some worn internal seals. I bought a seal repair kit and did a DIY on it. PS still going strong. For the DIY see link https://www.nairaland.com/1569388/changing-power-steering-seals-diy

Automatic Tensioner Replacement in 2013

I did this DIY at the same time I did the PS rebuild because the indicator for the tensioner was out of range even after replacing my serpentine belt. Changed this and the indicator has remained where it should be

Spreads mat on thread. Following without blinking eyes.

Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint Replacement (Leg Pull syndrome??)

No! I never had the dreaded leg pull, but I've replaced my front lower suspension ball joint (most mechanics call it bow joint). I caught it early because I listen to every noise from the car and I strongly disagree with those that say that it comes without warning. I did a thread on this but the Nairaland Tsunami took it away, nevertheless the sound will not go unnoticed except you don't care.
The sound was a heavy creaking one similar to what you would get from opening a large door with rusted hinges. It usually did not start immediately with driving, but comes on after a while and then goes if I park the car for sometime.

Finally, when it was removed, it was the left that was worn (the sound was coming from the left side anyway). It had developed a gap (had vertical movement). I replaced with an aftermarket part sourced in Naija but placed an order for the OEM pair. I removed the aftermarket and replaced with the OEM when it was delivered last year. I did this because I like the warning signs the OEM gave me when it developed a gap. See pictures of the OEM

lonelydora:
Spreads mat on thread. Following without blinking eyes.

Welcome broo!

Changed warped rotors to stop a vibrating brake pedal when braking...Used naija sourced rotors this time...You can't import every thing you know... This was in 2011

101+

Only major repair was changing transmission when I drove a rocky road and tranny box burst open, atf leaked and unavailability of DW1 made me throw abro in the mix and somehow it damaged tranny.

Ball joints swap @ 3 months interval.

9jacrip:
101+

Only major repair was changing transmission when I drove a rocky road and tranny box burst open, atf leaked and unavailability of DW1 made me throw abro in the mix and somehow it damaged tranny.

Ball joints swap @ 3 months interval.

Do you mean you swap your ball joints every 3 months? If so I think its a lot, why not get the OEM? OEM maybe more expensive but in the long run I think you will save more. My OEM only gave up last year and that's after 5 years of ownership and 11 years of vehicle life.

My concern with these frequent swaps especially by most Naija mechanics is the beating they give the suspension components A lot of hammering with the mallet, some even use Monday hammer except if your mechanic uses a puller.

I believe a new OEM should last more than 5 years

Piyke:


Do you mean you swap your ball joints every 3 months? If so I think its a lot, why not get the OEM? OEM maybe more expensive but in the long run I think you will save more. My OEM only gave up last year and that's after 5 years of ownership and 11 years of vehicle life.

My concern with these frequent swaps especially by most Naija mechanics is the beating they give the suspension components A lot of hammering with the mallet, some even use Monday hammer except if your mechanic uses a puller.

I believe a new OEM should last more than 5 years

Bro, I swap every 3 months because of inavailability of OEM and the roads I ply - especially during rainy seasons; to avoid embarrassment I swap it routinely.

My concern also is how they beat the ball joint out, it is scary for me but I try to pressure the mechanics to be reasonable.

Do you get OEM here in Naija?

9jacrip:


Bro, I swap every 3 months because of inavailability of OEM and the roads I ply - especially during rainy seasons; to avoid embarrassment I swap it routinely.

My concern also is how they beat the ball joint out, it is scary for me but I try to pressure the mechanics to be reasonable.

Do you get OEM here in Naija?

Not in Naija, got them from the Amazon US and then use any of the mail forwarders to get it down here like shippyme.com

My car has been laying idle for most of last yr but got very busy from November last yr. The suspension feels very good and firm on rough roads and potholes with no rattles or gaps. I currently have two major problems from unknown sources.

1. When the car is cold, driving from 0kmph, at 10-40kmph a very disturbing sound comes from the front left wheel (definitely) and stop making the noise with more speed. The sound is like crack crack crack crack synonymous to a cracking tree branch thats about to break and fall. Its very loud that all passengers will hear and even pedestrians. The main worry is that the wheel was completely dissembled and reassembled 4 times within a month inspecting every part, greasing and tightening every single bolt or nut in the vicinity of that wheel while i and the 2 different mechanics used agree all parts are in good order with no gaps but it continues. It is annoying but has persisted till i no longer pay attention to it. The more annoying thing is that it does not make the sound on stop or above 40kmph and stops entirely after 20 mins of driving. One 'Kazeem' said its bearing but i stood my ground and said its impossible. I know and have changed wheel bearing atleast 15 times if not more in different cars and were never like this.

2. This one is equally strange. At 80-100kmph, i experience a vibration which seem to be coming from the right front wheel. The vibration doesn't seem to come from out of balance wheel in the horizontal forward direction but from a vertical bouncing of the wheel and i am sure the shock absorber (strut assembly) is very good. Thats evident from the irregular wear of any tire i use in that wheel position. It wears more in one opposite end of the circumference of the tire than the other. I swap tires periodically as scheduled but any tire that gets to that position has that problem. I have done several wheel balancing and tired of it. The funny part is that i feel that vibration only when am driving in Abuja but when i travel weekends to Kaduna, i feel nothing even while driving within town. Is this a problem with Abuja roads?

I have done an adjustment of the right wheel shaft vibration damper position according to this picture below. It was of no use.

9jacrip:
101+

Only major repair was changing transmission when I drove a rocky road and tranny box burst open, atf leaked and unavailability of DW1 made me throw abro in the mix and somehow it damaged tranny.

Ball joints swap @ 3 months interval.

Do you use DW1 for the replaced Transmission or Z1. will any of the two be ok?

OLaw1:



Do you use DW1 for the replaced Transmission or Z1. will any of the two be ok?

Accord 2003/2004/2005 --- EoD all around na DW1.

Call luvinhubby if you need genuine one.

Piyke:


Not in Naija, got them from the Amazon US and then use any of the mail forwarders to get it down here like shippyme.com

Seems like a lengthy process for me.
I'll have family send it down here and we'll see how long it will last.

Piyke:
Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint Replacement (Leg Pull syndrome??)

No! I never had the dreaded leg pull, but I've replaced my front lower suspension ball joint (most mechanics call it bow joint). I caught it early because I listen to every noise from the car and I strongly disagree with those that say that it comes without warning. I did a thread on this but the Nairaland Tsunami took it away, nevertheless the sound will not go unnoticed except you don't care.
The sound was a heavy creaking one similar to what you would get from opening a large door with rusted hinges. It usually did not start immediately with driving, but comes on after a while and then goes if I park the car for sometime.

Finally, when it was removed, it was the left that was worn (the sound was coming from the left side anyway). It had developed a gap (had vertical movement). I replaced with an aftermarket part sourced in Naija but placed an order for the OEM pair. I removed the aftermarket and replaced with the OEM when it was delivered last year. I did this because I like the warning signs the OEM gave me when it developed a gap. See pictures of the OEM

I forgot to add that the creaking noise I talked about, occurred only while the steering wheel is turned to either side

adanny01:
My car has been laying idle for most of last yr but got very busy from November last yr. The suspension feels very good and firm on rough roads and potholes with no rattles or gaps. I currently have two major problems from unknown sources.

1. When the car is cold, driving from 0kmph, at 10-40kmph a very disturbing sound comes from the front left wheel (definitely) and stop making the noise with more speed. The sound is like crack crack crack crack synonymous to a cracking tree branch thats about to break and fall. Its very loud that all passengers will hear and even pedestrians. The main worry is that the wheel was completely dissembled and reassembled 4 times within a month inspecting every part, greasing and tightening every single bolt or nut in the vicinity of that wheel while i and the 2 different mechanics used agree all parts are in good order with no gaps but it continues. It is annoying but has persisted till i no longer pay attention to it. The more annoying thing is that it does not make the sound on stop or above 40kmph and stops entirely after 20 mins of driving. One 'Kazeem' said its bearing but i stood my ground and said its impossible. I know and have changed wheel bearing atleast 15 times if not more in different cars and were never like this.

2. This one is equally strange. At 80-100kmph, i experience a vibration which seem to be coming from the right front wheel. The vibration doesn't seem to come from out of balance wheel in the horizontal forward direction but from a vertical bouncing of the wheel and i am sure the shock absorber (strut assembly) is very good. Thats evident from the irregular wear of any tire i use in that wheel position. It wears more in one opposite end of the circumference of the tire than the other. I swap tires periodically as scheduled but any tire that gets to that position has that problem. I have done several wheel balancing and tired of it. The funny part is that i feel that vibration only when am driving in Abuja but when i travel weekends to Kaduna, i feel nothing even while driving within town. Is this a problem with Abuja roads?

I have done an adjustment of the right wheel shaft vibration damper position according to this picture below. It was of no use.

Hmmm...Don't have an idea of these could be, as you have covered the basic things which I know. May be you could create a new thread to give is better visibility, so that Siena, Gazzuzz et al can weigh in. Depending on if the wear is on the outer or inner part of the tire it could mean something. I guess you've tried to jack the tire and shake in vertical and horizontal axes?

Resuming...

Other repairs at varied times include:

- Replacement of power steering high pressure line (Pipe developed cracks and was leaking)
- Replacement of Front wheel bearings (Done at the time I was doing my OEM ball joints based on expert opinion of mechanic)
- Changed AC magnetic clutch (Part died)
- Replaced the radio (When I got the car, it wasn't working)
- Replaced downstream O2 sensor. See here https://www.nairaland.com/2072868/diy-replacement-downstream-bank-1

These sum up the major things I've done on the car.