Rhyah:


So does this mean that one cannot use >150ah battery for a 1kva inverter with a changing current of 15 A ?
Except for increased charging time, what are the other implications, if any?

unicmarket:



If it’s something like that you are getting; the main issue I saw with it is that, the discharge cut of voltage is too low; and can in the long run destroy your battery I think about 9.5v for a 12v battery

And it seem to over charge for some battery ratings, up to 14.6v or 15v thereabout (absorption charging voltage) which is too high for many battery brands, the Inverter is quite cheap; only that it’s relationship with batteries can be alarming.

unicmarket:



If it’s something like that you are getting; the main issue I saw with it is that, the discharge cut of voltage is too low; and can in the long run destroy your battery I think about 9.5v for a 12v battery

And it seem to over charge for some battery ratings, up to 14.6v or 15v thereabout (absorption charging voltage) which is too high for many battery brands, the Inverter is quite cheap; only that it’s relationship with batteries can be alarming.

olaolu11:


All I need is something to kite me over for like say 2-3 months. I am married to my TV and can't afford to be separated from it for that long and I am averse to generator now. I have DC bulbs installed for light and DC fans. TV is my problem now.

This has got me thinking. I have think I read someone talking about converting the dstv decoder to battery powered.
This my thought process is not for this platform. Anyone that can link me to where I can get answers.
His is hat I am thinking;
Dstv input port is DC(the power cord converts AC to DC to power it, right?)
So I can get power it with 5v 2amps from the cc.
I can get a 10-15 inch monitor that has DC port.

If the above is possible, then I am good to go. Pls am I making sense? Advise urgently required o, abeg.

unicmarket:



Oga Laolu, is the charger part of your bad Inverter still working?

If it was temporarily you could use a ups to power the tv from the battery (12v) while the Inverter acts as only a charger

But I don’t advice the use of that Inverter; for the health of your battery in the long run. And if per adventure you get it, then it means you must monitor it when it’s charging and also when it’s discharging to know when to cut it off( which is practically impossible in all cases; some times you may forget) meaning you may need to attach a meter to it so as to monitor.

But bros I don’t suggest that Inverter, there could be other brands; it’s risky

unicmarket:



U could also check the details of your battery; it may support the charging and discharging range., please check the side of the battery.


Like this example of a ritar battery
But I can tell the discharge cut off voltage for this is not 9.5v, it should be about 11.5v

Mjolnir:


Before you go disassembling the inverter, tey this simply first and pray hard..
Disconnect the positive cable from the inverter for 15secs, and reconnect. You may be lucky

olaolu11:


Check my signature. I have been completely off grid for over a year now and will be until the transformer inmy area is repaired.
I do not need the inverter to charge, my panels will do that via the charge controller. All i need the inverter for is to convert dc to ac power.

unicmarket:


If I understand you correctly; you are only looking for a stop gap, till you fix your Inverter; so need something little or cheaper, your option is to get the said Inverter; like I said if you can monitor the discharge reading so that as at 11.5v you put off the Inverter manually (for the mean time) , Then you can go for it.



Post Modified***

JUO:
Fangpusun 48v is 14w

Janyves:


I'm yet to work on a Studer inverter. Your fangpusun is a Studer Xtender clone. Personally I hate fangpusun brands because of their "Kopy Kat" legacy.

Janyves:


I'm yet to work on a Studer inverter. Your fangpusun is a Studer Xtender clone. Personally I hate fangpusun brands because of their "Kopy Kat" legacy.

olaolu11:


Let me answer your question this way.
I removed my "bad" followcome 9ah battery from my generator and used it with the solar panel for TV all through the weekend. I forgot to remove it on Monday and went to work. According to my wife, at about 11:00am noise stated coming from the inverter. She then put on the TV and he noise stopped. I got home at about 4:00pm to see the battery all swollen. What caused it?
The panel charged the battery to full and kept pushing more juice into it. The sound stopped because my wife shifted some of the load to power TV. If she had removed the battery, there won't be problem. I expected it to stop charging automatically when it is full but it did not so the battery got spoilt. I learnt a valuable lesson, don't assume. So I don't underload my panels with battery again.
Maybe the gurus in the house will shed more light. But I believe you can use anything above 80ah. I have used 7ah severally within sun hours to watch TV without any problem. Attached are pix of batteries I have used but which I now use solely for my fan. I believe everything is dependent on your solar array. I installed and used 7ah for light only for my mum with 20watts panel. I still plan to increase same to 40ah-80ah and 100watts-150watts panel.

unicmarket:
You can easily check your expected Inverter backup time.
Take advantage of this calculator

http://jekitech.com/battery-backup-time-calculator/

Dam5reey:


Stop misleading beginners, Try to explain what they must know.

So you are saying I can run 1000watts load on 100AH batteries, run for 50 minutes and still have 30% SOC. Without considering, battery chemistry?

It may be achieved, however on LifePO4 or equivalent add such notes.

unicmarket:


If I understand you correctly; you are only looking for a stop gap, till you fix your Inverter; so need something little or cheaper, your option is to get the said Inverter; like I said if you can monitor the discharge reading so that as at 11.5v you put off the Inverter manually (for the mean time) , Then you can go for it.



Modified***

Dam5reey:


Explain the above, did you connect panels directly to batteries, charge using inverter or you used charge controller?

Because no good inverter will overcharge your 9AH batteries, I have used 18AH batteries and inverter charges it fine no overcharging occurred.

olaolu11:
The DIY set up.

olaolu11:
The DIY set up.

olaolu11:


I can't recollect what happened vividly now. I got home to be told by wife that inverter had been making noise but that when she put on the TV, the noise stopped. I checked and saw very swollen battery which I showed here sometimes ago. Even myself was surprised because I expected such not to happen. I thought/expected the controller to cut supply when battery became full. Or isn't that how the thing is supposed to work?

Let me explain my connection.
The panels are connected to the battery via a pwm charge controller, grid is wired to inverter and inverter to battery. So battery has two charging sources, grid and solar.
I used grid/gen for about 5years before I added solar. So I just wired the solar to existing setup via a controller.

It is a DIY setup with input from this platform, and online researches. Or is there anything I did wrongly? I would have loved to post pictures of the setup but saying it is rough is an understatement. Lol. Maybe I shall summon courage and post in the morning. If you laugh at it I shall fine you 1 million dollars.

idris4r83:
Gurus in the house pls can pwm charge controller effectively charge LiFePo4 batteries?

ceaser:


It can but adequate charging largely depends upon if your PWM CC setting is user customizable or not.

Let's take 12v LFP as example, from experience. The nominal voltage is 12.8v and can get charged to as much as 14.2v. At sustained 14.2v charging, the cells are exposed to optimal juice and backup is evidently prolonged. You also get some good backup if charging is sustained at 13.8v. However any voltage less is just topping off the cells to around an unsaturating 95% (the 95% is my assumption pls, not a fact)

Now to your PWM charge controller. PWM and indeed MPPT controllers without settings for Lithium charging only go thru the 3 stage charging which culminates at around 13.3v or 13.6v. The boost stage that is above 14v is only sustained for about an hour or two and then things return to sub-14volt.

12v LFP requires sustained super-14volt charging and that is the parameters that "lithium settings" of CC that have it ensure. On the flip side, if your PWM CC has user customizable settings even if it does not have lithium settings, you can edit the "solar off" cut-off voltage to 14.3v.

ceaser:


It can but adequate charging largely depends upon if your PWM CC setting is user customizable or not.

Let's take 12v LFP as example, from experience. The nominal voltage is 12.8v and can get charged to as much as 14.2v. At sustained 14.2v charging, the cells are exposed to optimal juice and backup is evidently prolonged. You also get some good backup if charging is sustained at 13.8v. However any voltage less is just topping off the cells to around an unsaturating 95% (the 95% is my assumption pls, not a fact)

Now to your PWM charge controller. PWM and indeed MPPT controllers without settings for Lithium charging only go thru the 3 stage charging which culminates at around 13.3v or 13.6v. The boost stage that is above 14v is only sustained for about an hour or two and then things return to sub-14volt.

12v LFP requires sustained super-14volt charging and that is the parameters that "lithium settings" of CC that have it ensure. On the flip side, if your PWM CC has user customizable settings even if it does not have lithium settings, you can edit the "solar off" cut-off voltage to 14.3v.

Valto:
6pcs of fairly used very clean 200w mono solar panels for sale @ affordable price. location yenagoa bayelsa state. can be waybilled to anywhere. whatsapp me 080-8541-5985