₦airaland Forum

princezzz:
Officially left Stanbic funds and the dull interest rates. This year has not really smiled on their MMF, even with the compounding interest. Hopefully they will bounce back, because they will always be my first...

@Emmasoft really tried for me oo, i remember when i would spend hours on calls and chats with him, i was so adverse to any form of risk, i was so comfortable seeing my money in the traditional bank. But he managed to convince me, and when i jumped all legs in, there was no hold backs.
Then i wanted to see what all the other 7 funds in Stanbic were talking about, i moved into 6 of them with 1 toe, and moved back out when I didn't understand what was happening there.

Thanks to @EquityM/ CSblackpink who opened up the Equity thread, i observed for a long time, made little research, and then dove all in, even with the bloody red days sef.
If someone had told me i would be putting my money into a high risk investment like Equity in 2024 when i still dey research, i for don nod the person, because i know how long it took for me to join MMF o wey be low risk.

The moral lesson of this epistle is to start somewhere and build up your risk tolerance.

@Emmasoft and EquityM, if person never tell una thank you, this is me saying it. Una dey motivate person without asking for anything.
I probably would just focus on Equity this year, read up on the Stocks thread, maybe gather enough mometum, i fit begin to dey do my own trading from next year sef.

Money must be made.

BigDickProblems:
Bro this is the answer to this question from my previous post:

Your chest freezer consumes 733wh in a day Bro. Meaning that if you are going for tubular multiply your value by 2. In this case 1.5Kwh.

Meaning 1.5Kwh and above should serve you.

Btw, Bro I see you are a big fan of tubular battery 😂. Well, I would advise you try have an open mind and consider a LifePo4 battery. A 1.2Kwh of Lithium battery will serve you with no stress, and you will always thank God you saw my post.

All the best.

BigDickProblems:
Taking a closer look at the description (this one energy consumption 0.733kw/24h), that’s the answer na 😂.

I just used the input power for my previous calculation.

Your chest freezer consumes 733wh in a day Bro. Meaning that if you are going for tubular multiply your value by 2. In this case 1.5Kwh.


But a Lithium battery of 1.2kwh is just enough to do the job, and you can even power other things along side.

I still stand to be corrected though.

Techsinnovative:
energy consumption 0.733kw/24h This states the freezer consumes about 733watts in 24hrs as per the label. I would assume this freezer is relatively new and hasnt been modified/tampered with by any local repairer. If thats correct then it should still be close to spec. Given the upcoming dry season i would suggest factoring in an additional 15 - 20% due to weather induced variance.

If this is only for the freezer and nothing else below should do:
1.5kva hybrid inverter
lipo4 battery => 1.4kw
800watts Pv panels minimum

This only works if the freezer has not been modified/tampered with!!!

seepanel:
for an inverter freezer,how may panels and tubular bettery do we need to power it 247
this is the spec

Nexus inverter chest freezer
gross volume 270 liters
inverter compressor
freezing capacity 10kg/24h
rated volume 220-240v
rated current 1.0a
input power 75w
max power of lamp 1w
refrigerant amount r600a/60g
energy consumption 0.733kw/24h

advanceDNA:
Lol....there is nothing like pure if its already mixed.....some cross are just lucky to come out physically appealing because at the end of the day, final phenotypic traits are based on random selection which can be combined anyhow cos nature will always do whateva it likes during zygote formation.. thats why its not good to manipulate nature.....

Have u seen Doberman and German shepherd mix?? Their puppy look ugly like shit....

Some dogs cant even produce progeny if they are even able to cross cos they are different species e.g Caucasian shepherd and lhasa... or Neapolitan mastiff and Dachshund...

advanceDNA:
Well he told u its mixed breed..so there u go..

advanceDNA:
Well he told u its mixed breed..so there u go..

suco01:
Considering part availability Firman but if you the balls for Thermocool don’t think twice

1hp = 0.75kw
Anything from 3kva upward is good to go as the word more comfortable

AnaCheks:
But it always comes as fairy used. In that case is it still stronger than our chinkos ?

enochogaga:
Am here to give you any answer about fault on ur generators, and how to identify original generators.

seepanel:
hello

our building project foundation was completed approximated 8-months ago then we paused to repack our pockets.

now our blocks are hand-mould using dangote cement and removing approximately 40-blocks per bag using only sharp-sand and stone-dust.

now we were putting in the pillars, and we noticed, unlike few months ago when the blocks were strong almost like a rock, now with the rains, it's still strong, but not as strong as it used to. though workers still swear it's so much strong but personally, i know it isn't as strong as they used to be.

i want to know if the strength would return when it dries after the rains.

the foundation is about 8-months old

ytdivine:
Some harvest pawpaw

seepanel:
Good Day Sir/Ma
I have the following questions please so I would be able to make informed decisions with the builders.

1. In Block Setting, most bricklayers suggest using 1 bag of cement to set 100 blocks. My question is, isn't 100 blocks much for 1 bag of cement ?
What number of blocks do you think is good enough to produce good results ?
We might be poor but don't want to be silly. Wouldn't mind setting 80-blocks per bag of cement even if that means the project taking much longer to complete. But knowing if 100 blocks is very OK would help us decide.

2. Building is 5 bedroom Bungalow and would be roofed (using Aluminium roofing) and some people don't bother using using pillar (reinforced iron rods beams) but we plan using them. My question is, for a bungalow, which iron rod size is recommended between 8mm, 10mm and 12mm ? Would have loved to use 12mm but the price I was told when I priced it made me seriously start having a rethink.

3. We mould our blocks ourselves using Sharp Sand & Stone dust. Question is,
there are at least 2 types of sharp sand - one using in moulding blocks and another used in decking. Is it more better to use the Sharp sand used in decking without stone dust or to continue mixing the normal ordinary sharp sand with stone dust ?
Also we remove 40 to 42 6-inch blocks per bag of cement. is 42 pcs of 6-inch blocks per bag too much ?
I know the recommended is 30pcs but how do you see 42pcs ?
We would have loved to use 9-inch blocks but economic situation isn't helping.

4. I see people doing partial lintel rather than all round lintel. Does that matter much ?

5. In foundation filling, is it better using the filling sand which is made of clay or we can use any type of sand e.g those soil scraped from the ground while they were grading the site. I think they call it caterpillar sand ?

6. In setting of blocks, under normal conditions with no issue with the land, it is 1-block inside the ground, 2-blocks above the ground making total of 3-blocks for foundation level.
Now for the rest of the house, most I see is 12-blocks high (i.e 4-blocks before window level, 5-blocks on window level + extra 2-blocks after lintel making a total of 11-blocks high or 14-blocks high if we include foundation blocks). My question is, is this enough or people are just trying to minimize costs ?

7. From readings on nairaland threads, I have learnt it's better to totally cement the foundation floor (i think they call it German floor) before continuing with rest of the house and one reason is to separate the foundation from the rest of the building. This among maybe other reasons is to avoid moisture like when it rains rising up the walls which is what causes paints to weaken over time. My question is, is there any other alternatives, like just cement those block holes or we must do the German floor so as not to have such issue.


Please do note we are not wealthy but just barely managing. but we equally understand building a house need be done right to avoid sad stories.

for instance, we manage to buy 10 bags of cement about every 2-months so you see, we are not even rich so please don't mistake us as being wealthy.

we are just trying to build something long lasting with the little money we are able to get.

Building is 5 bedroom Bungalow and would be roofed so no decking.

I know already we would dig soakaway and use the sand for filling but that already has been done and the sand used for our last unsupervised project which collapsed at lintel level. Now we stay on site anytime we are working else no work till we come.

Failure to put the DPM before casting of the damp proof floor (DPC) would allow rise of moisture through the foundation block work leading to damage of screeding and painting layers.

ITbomb:
1. "Most bricklayers" are right

2. It is good to use them so that it bears the weight of the roof instead of the weight being distributed throughout the building (if you don't use pillars). And 12 is better. Above 40 is not good.

It surprised me how you want to save on block yet you want 1 bag of cement to 80 blocks setting (instead of 100)

3. Use sand for moulding block, it has some properties which enhance binds when dried, much stone hinders binding in blocks unless you use more cement .

4. If you have enough, do all round. It connects and bind all pillars, making the structure more resilient.

5. Use laterite, it compact better and when it compact, it is solid. If you are using normal soil, you may have to give it relatively longer time to compact before german floor.

6. It depends on the soil type, if you are building on a water prone area, put 2 in the ground.
And after lintel, use 3 coach not 2. It gives you more head clearance inside and enhances ventilation.

7. German flooring prevents moisture and most importantly ants will find it difficult digging through your doors.
However, if you are building on a dry land, you might not need to.
German floor alone can gulp money that can take your building to lintel.

Try and segment your building project if your pocket is not well oiled.
Do one part, take stock then go for next stage, that way you will not waste material if you run out of money

Eg
3500 to 4500 blocks
Foundation to DPC
DPC to lintel
Lintel to roof
Soakaway and filling (if you didn't do German floor)
Roofing
Flooring
Ceiling or pop
Plumbing
Conduit
Plaster
Doors and windows
Etc