THROTTLE's Posts
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Problem: I had a grinding noise around the alternator and compressor areas that was definitely metal-on-metal, high pitched. This could be likened to how an engine will respond when it finally runs out of engine oil, just some pitches lower. After careful observation, I noticed that the noise only came on when the AC was powered and I drove in a spirited manner. Sometimes, however, I didn't matter whether I gave the vehicle gas or not. It still made the shrill, annoying metal on metal noise, as long as the AC was powered on. It was embarrassing. I also observed that without the AC being put on, the noise was never activated! It is from this point that I rolled my sleeves and got to work... - Throttle |
Hello everyone. I fired my mechanic some months back and it has been fun. Vehicle repairs are fun and I wonder why I hadn't taken the action earlier. The most exciting part, of course, is the diagnosis; figuring out what went wrong and then, getting it right - as it should be done. Now, I can't wait for the weekends to come so that I'll have some quality time with my car .Having been a member of this forum for more than a decade and picked up a thing or two especially from some of its members, I decided to create this series to encourage others to fix their vehicles directly or at least, be more knowledgeable vehicle owners. The series will be titled: #AutoDIY. Everyone who loves the ICE is welcome to join the discussion. Today, I'll be sharing how I diagnosed a grinding metal noise around the alternator/AC compressor area of my vehicle (a 2006 Lexus ES 330). Will be updating the processes in a step by step fashion. Will be back! Throttle |
AutoManual:You have super sensitive hands and are paying attention. You should also notice a difference with the steering response when you have passengers/luggage. The height of it all? You should be able to tell an underinflated tire, correctly, just by steering the vehicle and 'feeling' it. |
easytig:Unless you are using EP, ALMOST all manufacturers recommend an OCI of 6 (six) months (max), irrespective of miles covered, not 1 (one) year as opined. That said, even with EP, there are very many variables to factor: 1. Type of typical use (severe versus normal). 2. Quality of engine oil filter (very important). 3. Other variables too numerous to mention here (like the PCV valve change/service when due) etc. Las las, if you don't know what you're doing, 5k miles or 6 (six) months OCI is your safest bet. As an aside: which marque has the almighty 20W50 as recommended (or suggested) engine oil weight? I'm curious. - Throttle. |
RoadMozart:Both vehicles mentioned are NOT designed/tuned for racing; this is what your ES guy (and you) failed to factor. Man, know thy vehicle... ![]() - Throttle. |
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