peaceland:
Thanks for the prompt reply sir, really appreciate it.
while waiting for the pictures - more questions:
1. was on a site and some some switches labelled as 15A, 16A, 20A. I know 20A is for water heater & AC but which of 15 & 16 is for normal light switches?
2. I know you discussed the issue of 1 phase & 3 phase meters somewhere - cant find it now but can you educate again on what 1 phase & 3 phase meters are and the pros/cons given that only 1 phase (cut-out) can be in use per time. is one (3-phase) going to draw more power (hence costlier to run) than 3 phase?. What I know then was that sometimes 1 line will not have power so we can change to one of the remaining 2 but aside that what are the implications?
3. Little lecture on the type of wires used to connect to PHCN - my current place I noticed that it seems a bit bigger (and coated with black plastic) than some houses which have smaller (coated with grey-like plastic).
Thank you.
I am sure you know where my questions are leading to sir.

topsy23:
1-gang 2-way, 2gang 2-way and 20A DP switch for water heater

peaceland:
@ topsy23,
can we talk a little about plumbing (its part of your thread title )
How is testing done for pipes already laid to ensure no leakage before tiles are laid?
what are the likely requirements and likely cost implications for a simple 4 bedroom structure
Thanks sir

larrymoore111:
pls where is ur location....thanks?

topsy23:
1-gang 2-way, 2gang 2-way and 20A DP switch for water heater

EgunMogaji:
Have you done surface wiring lately?

If so pics please.

topsy23:


Our recent jobs are all conduit system of wiring. We can do surface as well.

EgunMogaji:


I'll be interested to see samples of your surface and surface conduit writings that you've done.

I was titulated to see a level being used in your pictures.

Correct height and straightness of switched and outlets are one of my pet peeves in finishes.

Oh and the wall plate screws all have to be pointing straight up

EgunMogaji:


I'll be interested to see samples of your surface and surface conduit writings that you've done.

I was titulated to see a level being used in your pictures.

Correct height and straightness of switched and outlets are one of my pet peeves in finishes.

Oh and the wall plate screws all have to be pointing straight up

peaceland:
@ EgunMogaji, @ topsy23,
Perhaps this will help
I have physically seen a project he handled.
I am not a technical person but from my observation he is quite detailed.
They used a plump; set lines and markings and all to get correct levels on the said site and I think some of their red pen markers still there.
Quite detailed and they really took their time; not in a rush and on that particular site his work was very neat.
However it is not a big job site like yours sir.
Thank you.

EgunMogaji:


Thanks for the feedback, this is always helpful.

I would still like to see pictorial representation of their work. Not only to see the quality but how they attend to bends, junctions and if there are wrench teeths on the surface of visible piping.

topsy23:


Sir, you can see from the pictures I uploaded before the way our pipes is being bent. We don't use wrench in bending electrical pipes. The pipe is pvc and it can be bend easily with the use of bending spring. A methodology statement is what you need. To know how surface electrical conduit can done. .

BENDING SPRING: We have 20mm and 25mm bending spring for bending 20mm abd 25mm pipe respectively.

COUPLER: for joining two pipes together(we have 20mm and 25mm)

MALE BUSH: use at point entry of knockout boxes either plastic or galvanise.

SADDLE CLIP: for holding(clipping) pipes firm to the wall or slab