Mr Kelly:

Can someone in the house please explain these terms for me;

1. SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE ISSUED,
2. REBUILT TITLE ISSUED.

Thanks,

Kelly.

1)
Total loss is the mode d'employ jargon used by insurance firms to describe any car they cannot be arsed to repair, they pay the vehicle owner and then sell the car on as salvage.

2)
After the salvaged vehicle is repaired and passes the state's inspection, a rebuilt certificate/title or assembled from salvage parts is issued, then the car is once again fit to be driven.

3)
A car that is not redeemable is issued with a certificate of destruction or a non rebuidable title so that they could be sold on for part or exported to Third World Countries.

) A vehicle can be re-vinned following an accident or theft. How difficult is it to repair "salvage" vehicles from one jurisdiction, then register them in another state without the permit? How difficult is it to register a car concurrently across several states? . . .

Bottomline is Buyer Beware, get a history report if you can. In UK, AA or HPI check would cover you, In US contact CARFAX or EXPERIEN, In Canada contact CARPROOF, In Nigeria, contact . . . Insha Allah, we will get there someday by God's grace E go better

1) Total loss does not mean a car cannot be repaired. A car is termed salvage because the insurance appraiser estimates that the cost of repair of an accident car will be more than the actual market value of the car before the accident.

2)In Canada, after the salvaged vehicle is repaired, it is taken to Structural Safety Inspectors who charge a fee to measure and straighten the vehicle by up to millimeter accuracy using frame straightening machine with 3D computerized measuring system. Thereafter, structural safety certificate is issued follow by a mechanical safety standards certificate which expires 36 days from the day of issuance. With these 2 certificates and a vehicle emissions test report for registration at the license office will result in labeling the car REBUILT then the car is once again fit to be driven.

3)In Canada such a car is called IRREPARABLE and not fit to be driven in North America. It is worth to note that a flooded vehicle is classify as an irreparable car while a salvage car is not. In some states in the USA like Texas both salvage and irreparable vehicle are classify as SALVAGE.

Fogman:

How to spot a lemon

Finding a trouble-free used car has nothing to do with luck and everything to do with applying good research and investigative skills. Knowing how to spot potential problems and determining how reliable a used vehicle is can save you from expensive automotive headaches down the road. The following advice can help you determine whether a used vehicle is a good value or potential trouble.

1. Check the reliability record.

A good way to reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone vehicle is to select models with a good reliability record before you begin shopping. Consumer Reports' annual subscriber survey provides exclusive real-world reliability information that can help you narrow your selections. See Best and worst used cars for a quick-reference list of the best and worst used cars from our most recent survey. Also read the reliability-history charts that accompany most of CR's vehicle profiles to get a more detailed view at how specific models have held up in 16 trouble areas as well as overall.

2. Read the window sticker.

The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to post a Buyer's Guide in every used vehicle offered for sale. Usually attached to a window, it must contain certain information, including whether the vehicle is being sold "as is" or with a warranty, and what percentage of repair costs (if any) the dealer is obligated to pay. The Guide information overrides any contrary provisions in your sales contract. In other words, if the Guide says that the vehicle is covered by a warranty, the dealer must honor that warranty. If any changes in coverage are negotiated, the Guide must be altered to reflect them before the sale.

If a sale is designated "as is," it means that the dealer makes no guarantees as to the condition of the vehicle, so any problems that arise after you have made the purchase will be your responsibility. Many states do not allow as-is sales on vehicles selling for more than a certain price.

3. Check the exterior.

Begin by doing a walk around of the car, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels or parts, broken lamp housings, and chipped windows. Gaps between body panels should be of a consistent width and line up.

A closer inspection can reveal paint overspray on chrome or rubber trim or in the vehicle's wheel wells. This is a telltale sign of body-panel repair.
Test for the presence of body filler with a small magnet. If the magnet doesn't stick to the panel, the car may have filler under the paint (some vehicles with plastic or fiberglass panels, however, won't attract a magnet at all). A door, hood, or trunk that doesn't close and seal properly is evidence of previous damage and/or sloppy repair work. A CAPA (Certified Automotive Parts Association) sticker on a body panel means the part has been replaced. Inconsistent welds around the hood, doors, or trunk also indicate repair.

4. Check the interior.

A long look into the cabin can reveal many obvious problems, such as a sagging headliner, cracked dashboard, and missing knobs, handles, and buttons. Frayed seat belts or ones with melted fibers (because of friction) may be evidence of a previous frontal impact above 15 mph--damaged safety belts should always be replaced.

Prematurely worn pedals or a sagging driver's seat are signs that the vehicle has very high mileage. An air bag warning light that stays lit may indicate that a bag has deployed and been improperly replaced--or not replaced at all. A mildew smell, caused by a water leak, can be very hard to get rid of. Discolored carpeting, silt in the trunk, or intermittent electrical problems may be signs of flood damage.

5. Check under the hood.

At first glance, the engine, radiator, and battery should be relatively grease-free and have very little or no corrosion. Belts and hoses should be pliable and unworn. Look for wet spots, which can indicate leaking oil or fluids. Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.

With the engine cool, insure that all fluids are clean, filled to the proper level, and do not have leaks. Check the engine oil while the engine is cool. Remove the dipstick from its tube and clean it with a dry rag, reinsert it and remove it again. The oil level should be between the "full" and "add" marks. Normal engine oil is brown or black, depending on when it was last changed. Gritty or gelatinous oil may indicate long stretches between oil changes. Thin, frothy oil that's the color of chocolate milk may point to a blown head gasket or to a severely damaged block or cylinder head. Fine metal particles in the oil indicate internal damage or heavy wear.

The transmission fluid dipstick is usually located in the rear of the engine compartment. Check it right after the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes. With the engine at idle and both the brake and parking brake applied, shift through all the gears. Leave the engine running and put it in neutral or park (according to the owner's manual) and check the level in relation to the dipstick marks. Also inspect the fluid's condition. The transmission fluid should be bright red to light reddish brown, not dark brown, black, or mustard colored; those colors can indicate serious problems. If it has a strong burned smell, that can indicate severe wear.

6. Check the tires.

Wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Tires that are frequently used while over-inflated tend to have more wear in the middle; tires driven while under-inflated tend to wear more on the sides. Heavy wear on the outside shoulder near the sidewall of the tire indicates a car that has been driven hard. This can be a sign that other parts of the car may suffer from excessive wear due to aggressive driving. Cupped tires, those that have worn unevenly along the tread's circumference, can indicate various problems with the steering, suspension, or brakes.

7. Check the steering.

With the car idling, turn the steering wheel right and left. Check that there isn't any slack or "play," or clunking noise in the steering. Excess play may indicate a worn steering gear or damaged linkage.

While driving at normal speeds on smooth, flat pavement, the car shouldn't wander or need constant steering corrections. A shaking steering wheel often indicates a need for a wheel balancing or front-end alignment, which are easily remedied. However, this may also be a clue that there's a problem with the driveline, suspension, or frame, which could mean expensive repairs are in order.

8. Check the suspension.
Check the suspension by pushing down hard on each fender and letting go. The car should rebound softly, once or twice. More than two severe rebounds indicate worn shock absorbers or struts. Also, drive the car over a bumpy road at about 30 mph. A car that bounces and slams at moderate speeds over common pavement may have a worn or damaged suspension.

9. Check the tailpipe.

A puff of white smoke upon start-up is probably the result of condensation and not a cause for alarm. Black smoke after the car has warmed up indicates an overly rich air-fuel mixture--usually due to a dirty air filter, a faulty oxygen sensor, or mass-air meter (which measures the amount of intake air). Blue smoke indicates oil burning--a bad sign, requiring expensive repairs. Billowing white smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber, usually because of a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder head, or even a cracked block--all expensive repairs.

10. Step on the gas.

While driving, does the engine rev excessively before the car accelerates? This is a common sign of a misadjusted or worn-out clutch, or a damaged automatic transmission. A clutch adjustment is a relatively inexpensive service, but a damaged clutch or automatic-transmission repair can be extremely expensive.

Listen for knocks and pings while accelerating. These indicate bad ignition timing or an engine beginning to overheat.

11. Check for recalls and TSBs.

Check to see if any recalls were issued and if recall service was performed. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.nhtsa.dot.gov; 800-424-9393) lists all official recalls. Ask the seller for documentation on recall service. If any recall work has not been performed on a car that you're considering, it should be done as soon as possible. Automakers are required to perform recall service free of charge, regardless of the vehicle's age or how long ago the recall was issued.

Technical Service Bulletins, or "TSBs," are reports a manufacturer sends its dealers about common or recurring problems with a specific model, and how to rectify them. Because TSBs aren't typically safety related, manufacturers are not obligated to notify owners or pay for the repairs, though an automaker may pay for some or all of the work--if an owner asks them to. Lists of TSBs can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm. Check for any TSBs that were issued for the model you're buying and if the seller had any necessary repairs performed.

12. Check the vehicle's history.

A vehicle-history report from CarFax (www.carfax.com) or Experian Automotive (www.autocheck.com) can alert you to possible odometer fraud; reveal past fire, flood, and accident damage; or tell you if a rebuilt or salvage title has ever been issued for the vehicle. To access this information, provide the vehicle identification number, or "VIN," which is on the top of the dashboard, near the driver's side roof pillar. Reports should cost $15 and the process takes about five minutes. (CarFax's Web site provides Consumer Reports' advice and information on buying used cars.)

13. Visit a mechanic.

Before you buy a used vehicle, have it inspected by a qualified mechanic that routinely does automotive diagnostic work. A thorough diagnosis should cost around $120. An organization called the Car Care Council (www.carcarecouncil.org) certifies diagnostic shops. If you're an American Automobile Association (AAA) member, you could use one of the organization's recommended facilities.

In addition to doing the basic diagnostic, ask the mechanic to put the vehicle on a lift and inspect the undercarriage. Kinked structural components and large dents in the floor pan or fuel tank can indicate a past accident. Welding on the frame suggests a damaged section might have been replaced or cut out during repairs. Have the mechanic look for fresh undercoating, which can be used to hide recent structural repairs.

A dealer should have no problem lending you the car to have it inspected as long as you leave identification. A private seller may be more reluctant, however. You should offer to follow the seller to the shop where the inspection will take place.

Busy_body:

I am on the lookout for the one Siena posted, once I find it I would put it up.

In addition to what has been said, I would like to add that despite all the hullabaloo about "post VIN" "post VIN" "post VIN" coming from certain quarters who would like you to believe they are doing it for the good of the world.

Some states don't record salvage titles i.e. you are allowed to retitle a car without referencing the salvage status of the car so the VIN check would not pick this up, hence the reason for the confusion that occured a few weeks ago in this section ^{where my head was nearly chewed off} whereby a Volkswagen JETTA did not have salvage in its VIN record, yet was involved in a collision.

Some unscrupulous people take advantage of these by moving accidented cars to another state which does not record salvage titles to enable the "salvaged car" adopt a clean title.

Cars registered in the following state would not have salvage title come up in the record, when you check their VIN;

Arizona,
Arkansas,
California,
Illinois,
Indiana,
Kentucky,
Maine,
Michigan,
Mississippi,
Missouri,
New Jersey,
New York,
North Dakota,
Ohio,
Rhode Island,
Texas,
Vermont.


So if you request for a VIN and it shows that it was involved in a collision or whatever, yet did not have salvage in its title, it is more likely that the car was titled/retitled in one of these aforementioned states.

There is nothing wrong in buying salvaged vehicles, just make sure you take a mechanic who knows what he is doing, and also refer to this thread by FOGMAN who posted helpful insights to identify whether a car is a lemon or not, the guide in the next post, will help you know what to look for

MrCrackles:

You guys have started again, grow up for fuc.k sake!

Big kids!!!

promise72:

There u go again talking 'bou what u dont know. As a California resident (17years running) and a Registered Used Car Dealer. Your information is very FALSE. Below is a link to California Dept of Motor Vehicle about registering Salvage cars.

http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13.htm

I've bought cars in neighboring states of Washington, Arizona, Oregon, Nevada. I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that any salvage title over there will transfer to California.

The VIN record was created to protect consumers but most especially the insurance companies. They don't want to overpay (in claims) for a car that's been salvaged in another state.

Busy_body:

Promise72, I have reported you to the Admin, but words have never given me indigestion so care to explain how your link discredits anything I have mentioned above, intelligence is not just about posting random links y'know

promise72:

Here's me laughing at u kid!!!      

Don't get it twisted!

promise72:

If salvage is recorded from the Dept of Motor Vehicles how wouldnt it show up on the VIN? Especially for California that has the highest number of registed vehicle in the U.S?

Insurance company don't wanna lose a penny u know. Just get ur facts right. I live here!. Im a registered dealer!. What more do u want to know?

Busy_body:



The fact that you misconstrued mastro's stance which was as plain as the nose on your face and suggested that he recoiled when he heard the price Siena mentioned, is proof enough that we are not on the same wavelength as far as intelligence is concerned. If it was Ziontrain now ^{though I can't stand his guts sometimes} I would have entertained him, so sorry my dear it is not me you are going to use to practise bettering yourself at English, find somewhere else to pitch your tent.

And trust me if I wanna know anything, you are the last person I would approach on this forum

promise72:

How can it be random if its from CALIFORNIA DEPT OF MOTOR VEHICLE WEBSITE?

You still act ignorant even in the face of proof. Na wa o.

gestapo:

since every dog and cat in the usa are now registered car dealers, im a registered dealer too. Lol

NO PERSONAL ATTACKS OR PUBLIC FIGHTS
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oranges:

Salvage Title
A Salvage Title is issued on a vehicle damaged to the extent that the cost of repairing the vehicle exceeds ~ 75% of its pre-damage value.

oranges:

This damage threshold may vary by state. Some states treat Junk titles the same as Salvage but the majority use this title to indicate that a vehicle is not road worthy and cannot be titled again in that state. The following eleven States also use Salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles - AZ, FL, GA, IL, MD, MN, NJ, NM, NY, OK and OR.

cvibe:

@ poster

As long as a Salvage vehicle runs and drives, it is perfectly ok to buy. If you'll like to see evidence of a salvage vehicle in operation, i'll show you one.