Car: VW Jetta 2.5L 2006.

Car was in in good condition even used it to travel down to Nigeria and Togo twice from Ghana but i passed through a pool of water up to the bonet level when it rained heavily in Ghana few months ago and caused great havoc.

I had changed the TCU and starter motor when the car developed problem second day after going through the heavy waters.

Like 2 months ago i noticed power loss on the vehicle and took it to my vw mechanic who diagnosed it with maxidas and said he didn't find anything, few weeks ago, i started the car and it was sputtering while the cel was flashing and i had to stop and start the engine again and it was okay but little jerk on changing gear from 1 to 2 which happened once.

Took the car back to the workshop and he diagnosed and reported something like "lean fuel" and decided it has to be the fuel pump and had to change it.

Few days ago, we changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, air flow meter(MAF), and serviced the throttle body, but this didn't solve the problem as the car losses power more often on 3000rpm and it never goes pass this, just keep fluctuating.

A re-diagnoses showed that o2 sensor heater contr circ(bank 1 sensor 2) and also Knock sensor 2 circ low input.

We then had to change the knock sensor, change the full throttle body and also another sensor at back of engine (probably the o2 sensor, i am not sure) and problem went away for 1 day after which the problem came back and the cel light came back on and then i noticed every-time i accelerate to gain more power and the RPM gets on 3000, it never exceeds this and it keeps fluctuating on 3000, trying to move above it but keeps coming back down, and this period the car losses power( like i depress the brake and decelerates), the speedometer stays in same place and the gear stays in same gear, whenever i take foot off the gas pedal, the rpm goes down, gear changes and car returns to normal,if i try to accelerate it goes into same problem, or it goes well above 3000 rpm but in little time, will go into same problem again.

We have as well change the accelerator maybe it could be the cause of this, and recently after dropping the car at the workshop for 2 days, the tech said he saw traces of water in the ECU, i do not know if this is correct and if can be the cause of the power loss.

Also the car a/c keeps tripping off and blowing heat occasionally until the A/c guy tapped some current and did some wiring which stopped it from tripping, also applies to the stereo and now its okay. All these were after the flood.

Maybe this can help as to why this is happening.

Also, the intake air temperature sensor on the image is because he removed the hook which the sensor was connected to because it was broken and lose.

I hope i can get some further headway to resolving this problem as it is becoming an issue.

Thanks all once again, i really appreciate.

Diagnoses Pix here : http://oi62.tinypic.com/b3smyg.jpg

N.B : mechanic used to work with VW service center and seems highly knowledgeable and works only on VW/AUDI cars

Please replace the intake air temperature sensor and with right connectors too.

Looks like you've dealt with most of the culprits, but if it was all 'tokunbo' replacement, you might want to check all with another to double sure you got a properly working part, especially the MAF sensor...speaking from experience.

Cheers bro.

The only thing that is out of place is the engine Ecu. Have it replaced. Also check for a blocked catalyst. A blinking check engine light indicates a misfire, I haven't seen any where you wrote about sparkplug cleaning and re-gapping or replacement

Mojibola:
Please replace the intake air temperature sensor and with right connectors too.

Looks like you've dealt with most of the culprits, but if it was all 'tokunbo' replacement, you might want to check all with another to double sure you got a properly working part, especially the MAF sensor...speaking from experience.

Cheers bro.

Thanks bro, the mechanic said the air temp sensor is not that important and that the connectors doesnt really matter as well as the engine can draw air without it.

95% of the parts bought were brand new, only the throttle body was used one which is frm jetta 6 and the knock sensor. all others are new.

Thanks sir

GAZZUZZ:
The only thing that is out of place is the engine Ecu. Have it replaced. Also check for a blocked catalyst. A blinking check engine light indicates a misfire, I haven't seen any where you wrote about sparkplug cleaning and re-gapping or replacement

Sir, thanks for the comment, we have replaced all 5 spark plugs and all 5 ignition coils and all were new ones.

The only thing he mentioned of recent was that he found trace of water in the ecu and that he will try and get one to test it. i am still waiting for that, but the car has sucked twice its value and its getting too much now.

Water and ecu. At all

mayor2013:
Water and ecu. At all

Boss, i do not understand pls.
thanks

ora10g:


Boss, i do not understand pls.
thanks

They are both enemies I mean

mayor2013:

They are both enemies I mean

Oh okay. I will try and get the ecu changed and then see how it goes from there.
thanks sir

ora10g:


Thanks bro, the mechanic said the air temp sensor is not that important and that the connectors doesnt really matter as well as the engine can draw air without it.

95% of the parts bought were brand new, only the throttle body was used one which is frm jetta 6 and the knock sensor. all others are new.

Thanks sir

The mechanic is wrong. Volkswagens make use of their intake air temperature sensors. It uses this value to calculate precisely the amount of Oxygen it is getting. The reading of the airflow meter is corrected by the intake air temperature sensor reading. Some volkswagens will switch to another sensor (I can't remember which now), or use a base value which may affect engine performance negatively. Your compressor will also have issues if your ambient air temperature sensor (usually in front of the condenser or inside the bumper) is faulty or damaged. I experienced this personally and removed my perfectly good compressor for a conversion. When i realized my folly, it was too late already.

9icetoo:

The mechanic is wrong. Volkswagens make use of their intake air temperature sensors. It uses this value to calculate precisely the amount of Oxygen it is getting. The reading of the airflow meter is corrected by the intake air temperature sensor reading. Some volkswagens will switch to another sensor (I can't remember which now), or use a base value which may affect engine performance negatively. Your compressor will also have issues if your ambient air temperature sensor (usually in front of the condenser or inside the bumper) is faulty or damaged. I experienced this personally and removed my perfectly good compressor for a conversion. When i realized my folly, it was too late already.

Hmm, i c. But i had the a/c compressor issue even when the air temp sensor was intact. and even the power loss problem started when the sensor was also intact. But like you explained, its better to have it back than not. Had to change the compressor to a mercedes benz compressor as we could not get the vw own.