The car is a 2003 Honda Accord LX.

I went to a radio electriction to find a solution to its usual problem. The LX 1 loader CD is notorious for tripping of and on by itself. I got tired so i asked the guy to try his best. It was unsucessful as the radio kept doing it after all the soldering and trouble shooting, he gave up but when i started the car to leave, i heard a whine noise from the around the belt area. Driving away heading to the mechanics to investigate the new whine, i had to stop to investigate myself as the sound is too obvious.

I opened the bonnet while on idle, it was obvious there was a burning smell and some smoke i couldnt pick where it came from.

The mechanic removed the serpentine belt and rotated all accessories for noise, only the belt tensioner pulley was noisy, he changed its bearing but the whine was still there. Thats how we turned to the source of smell and concluded it might be the alternator. So i plugged my bluetooth OBD scanner and upon checking the battery voltage, i was sure the alternator is out. It used to be 14.3v averagely but it was reading 12.7v and lower when load is turned on. Its just a matter of time, my battery voltage will drop and the battery light will illuminate and the car will shut down.

Am off town for the weekend and the alternator is not available here, i was given an alternative but rejected it because it is not exactly a replica. I took a no AHGA55 on it and upon search i found it fits Honda CR-V 2002-2005, Acura and others.

A portion of my rectifier is burnt and the electrician has changed a few alternators but the customers didnt leave a bad one behind for him to source the burnt part.

They said the CR-V alternator is plug and play but i cant find its Amperage or know mine. I only want to guess the 55 means amperage in a way since i saw others online such as AHGA65 etc. Am lost in between 3 choices, get my exact alternator way billed to my location, use the CR-V alternator ( a little cheaper) or make a search for the rectifier?

Meanwhile, before i parked the car at home, the battery voltage was 12.4 and with load 11.9

The first is on the car

And after that buy a new radio. Don't be like me wasting thousands and later discovery IT CANT BE FIXED. it's a known honda accord problem with single loader players

My advice going from first principles would be to get your same exact replacement.
The CRV one may be plug and play but may not be exactly "tuned" to your Accord. I just did a search and the 2 part numbers are not the same on Honda OEM parts sites.

I don't know if you followed, but when I replaced my leaking VTEC pressure switch I used a grey one as against the black one I pulled out. Both were plug and play. Fast forward 2 months later I got a VTEC pressure switch code. I finally did some search and realised the grey ones were made for 95 Preludes or so (contrary to what part sellers told me) and were not interchangeable (at least from Honda's inventory). I'm now back to the black one which has the correct part number.
An alternator is a critical part and I personally would want to match what came out. I'm not a rewire and so may not offer much as regards getting a new rectifier, but if it's the only defective part why not.

Just my opinion...

Thanks for your responses.

I have made a find.

The one in my car is a Denso part 12v 100Amps 7S pulley used by Accord 03-05, Acura TSX 04-05 and Honda VIII 02.

The proposed is a Mitsubishi 12v 90Amps 7S Pulley used by CR-V 02-04 and Acura RS-X 02-06.

I guess it should fit fine but for the 10Amp less.

Why bother searching for alternative ones when you can get the same type that came with ur car?a drop in the amp will have issues in charging ur battery as OEM specified,and if ur car is auto,I'm sure u won't want to be begging for batteries or renting to start ur car.
Never joke with kick starters,alternators and batteries issues with ur car.

My electrician informed me that all the alternators of this kind he has changed had the same problem i.e burnt rectifier. So i made the order from Abuja for an exact replacement as the last option.

It arrived but not physically as clean as i expected and took less than 20mins to install. It worked fine but on my way home after installation, the car started misbehaving. I was using A/C and i was surprised that the A/C wasnt chilling. Close to my house i could hear the A/C clutch engage but disengaged right after and the car was already hot and uncomfortable. A lot of things were strange, i stopped and shifted gear to N and the idle went up to about 1200rpm. Something was obviously wrong. I continued to home but just in front of my home i head the whine creaping back. I lost composure and turned off the engine immediately and opened the bonnet. The car was owfully hot but no smell from the alternator like before. Right there i noticed, BOTH COOLING FANS WERE NOT CONNECTED. I connected and they both started spinning immediately even when the car was off. I understood that the car over heated. I was just lucky the temp didnt go higher. Inside, the temp guage was almost at the red line, i wonder how i didnt notice.

Now, i still have a little whine. It fluctuates between 14.1-14.3v which i believe is ok.

GAZZUZZ:
looks like nigerian used. Pics below, top pic Nija used, bottom pic toks

There is one thing i know about those who sell these parts in Abj, it is not how it looks because they always make it look exactly like the customer wants it. For the part to work or stand the test of time is something else.

I have seen a cleaner one than the one i got here but when asked for a guarantee and the cost of workmanship for replacement, he declined. We knew even though it appears like toks, it is not. I have layed my fears to the guy and would see him when i arrive Abj.