HI guys. I think I should open this thread having gained valuable information on other threads. Information is indeed power and i must say that had i visited this section earlier, I would have saved a lot of money.

I drive a 2008 honda accord 2.4L. I'm a novice when it comes to cars and I rely on a trusted friend to handle my car issues. The initial problem after I bought the car was noise from the engine whenever I start it in the morning. The metals and bearing were replaced to solve the problem . The noise didn't go after the replacement and I also noticed the car was losing oil(shortage without leakage) after a while. Somehow, the noise got bad and became noticeable when I rev to around 2000rpm. I replaced same parts again. All these while, there was no error codes on the dash, save for TPMS, which pops up and disappears.

Fast forward, when the noise became louder, especially each time I restart the car or rev up to 2000rpm, my obviously incompetent and exploitative mechanic told me to get the crankshaft replaced. I did and the problem wouldn't stop. At this point, the CEL came on and the car wouldn't rev beyond 3000rpm. Also, the car would not idle well anymore.

I decided to replace the engine. I got another engine through a new mechanic in Apo for 270k. Upon fixing the new engine, the car appeared better and the noise was gone.

However, I noticed that the VSA and CEL came on 5 minutes into test -driving the new engine. I also discovered that the car revs well but doesn't gain speed on time. The engine seller, in a bid to solve the problem, suggested I remove my catalyst converter which he claimed was bad. I drove the car without the convertor (I still have mine in the boot of the car). The car ran a little better, but the VSA and CEL remained.

The noise from the engine is completely gone, even when I start it in the morning. The new engine sounds good, but the car wouldn't gain speed on time. Through a friend, the car was scanned and the error code P0341 (ECM Failure) came on. The code was cleared and showed up again. I'm just exhausted. I need to get this right this time. I need a competent hand to handle this. I'm also open to recommendations pls. My location is abuja. Thanks

My guy,you are in luck

My oga,Kingreign is based in abuja

Very competent and reliable

Seek him out thru his moniker

Thank me later

papiroza:
HI guys. I think I should open this thread having gained valuable information on other threads. Information is indeed power and i must say that had i visited this section earlier, I would have saved a lot of money.

I drive a 2008 honda accord 2.4L. I'm a novice when it comes to cars and I rely on a trusted friend to handle my car issues. The initial problem after I bought the car was noise from the engine whenever I start it in the morning. The metals and bearing were replaced to solve the problem . The noise didn't go after the replacement and I also noticed the car was losing oil(shortage without leakage) after a while. Somehow, the noise got bad and became noticeable when I rev to around 2000rpm. I replaced same parts again. All these while, there was no error codes on the dash, save for TPMS, which pops up and disappears.

Fast forward, when the noise became louder, especially each time I restart the car or rev up to 2000rpm, my obviously incompetent and exploitative mechanic told me to get the crankshaft replaced. I did and the problem wouldn't stop. At this point, the CEL came on and the car wouldn't rev beyond 3000rpm. Also, the car would not idle well anymore.

I decided to replace the engine. I got another engine through a new mechanic in Apo for 270k. Upon fixing the new engine, the car appeared better and the noise was gone.

However, I noticed that the VSA and CEL came on 5 minutes into test -driving the new engine. I also discovered that the car revs well but doesn't gain speed on time. The engine seller, in a bid to solve the problem, suggested I remove my catalyst converter which he claimed was bad. I drove the car without the convertor (I still have mine in the boot of the car). The car ran a little better, but the VSA and CEL remained.

The noise from the engine is completely gone, even when I start it in the morning. The new engine sounds good, but the car wouldn't gain speed on time. Through a friend, the car was scanned and the error code P0341 (ECM Failure) came on. The code was cleared and showed up again. I'm just exhausted. I need to get this right this time. I need a competent hand to handle this. I'm also open to recommendations pls. My location is abuja. Thanks

Destruction of 270k . Catalytic converter removed. If you are buying that catalyst nothing lesser than 60k. Ecm failure. Run a more comprehensive scan am sure there are more code (s). As for this code get a good hand to get it done for you in ABJ

mayor2013:


Destruction of 270k . Catalytic converter removed. If you are buying that catalyst nothing lesser than 60k. Ecm failure. Run a more comprehensive scan am sure there are more code (s). As for this code get a good hand to get it done for you in ABJ

I don't understand what you mean by "destruction of 270k " the catalytic converter removed from is still with me, and I'm beginning to feel it's not the problem with the car, even though it runs a little faster without it. I intend to fix it back this weekend when I have the time. The little research I did on the cat only emphasised that it's importance is basically to reduce pollution via emission. I couldn't find where the removal is linked to any potential engine damage, though I noticed more fuel consumption since the removal, which I was told is expected (I may be wrong though). Thanks for sharing your thoughts....

diportivo:
My guy,you are in luck

My oga,Kingreign is based in abuja

Very competent and reliable

Seek him out thru his moniker

Thank me later

Thanks. I'm searching for the moniker right away....

Still waiting for opinions of the gurus here please

papiroza:

I don't understand what you mean by "destruction of 270k " the catalytic converter removed from is still with me, and I'm beginning to feel it's not the problem with the car, even though it runs a little faster without it. I intend to fix it back this weekend when I have the time. The little research I did on the cat only emphasised that it's importance is basically to reduce pollution via emission. I couldn't find where the removal is linked to any potential engine damage, though I noticed more fuel consumption since the removal, which I was told is expected (I may be wrong though). Thanks for sharing your thoughts....

Well your observation might be different from my experience. I never expect both to be @ equilibrium. We have seen cars where the cat were removed and the car began to misbehave. Put your cat back and get a competent person to check your car. Let them probe into your CAN wiring since you have a p0341 (ecm failure)

No too waste time. PM me and I will refer u to a competent hand at Gudu.

Just call lomomike,den u are saved.. Lomomike is the username..

mayor2013:


Well your observation might be different from my experience. I never expect both to be @ equilibrium. We have seen cars where the cat were removed and the car began to misbehave. Put your cat back and get a competent person to check your car. Let them probe into your CAN wiring since you have a p0341 (ecm failure)

Thanks bro. Today, I got my catalytic converter fixed back and just as I suspected, the performance didn't change. I got the car scanned thoroughly by two very experienced mechanics. The error code remained P3041. The last mechanic said the error code could mean two things; faulty Camshaft sensor or that the timing chain is stretched. We changed the sensors (tokunbo, as new was not available) and the codes remained. He's strongly suspecting the chain and advised we check that out. Now I'm getting a little worried because this is a tokunbo engine and I don't want this stress.
Well, I already called the guy who sold the engine and he said he will get someone from honda place abuja to look at it.
My poser is ; is it possible to repair the stretched chain without any implications? Experts, please respond. Thanks

papiroza:

I don't understand what you mean by "destruction of 270k " the catalytic converter removed from is still with me, and I'm beginning to feel it's not the problem with the car, even though it runs a little faster without it. I intend to fix it back this weekend when I have the time. The little research I did on the cat only emphasised that it's importance is basically to reduce pollution via emission. I couldn't find where the removal is linked to any potential engine damage, though I noticed more fuel consumption since the removal, which I was told is expected (I may be wrong though). Thanks for sharing your thoughts....

mayor2013:

Well your observation might be different from my experience. I never expect both to be @ equilibrium. We have seen cars where the cat were removed and the car began to misbehave. Put your cat back and get a competent person to check your car. Let them probe into your CAN wiring since you have a p0341 (ecm failure)

Emekasmart:
Just call lomomike,den u are saved.. Lomomike is the username..

Thanks, I appreciate

papiroza:


Thanks bro. Today, I got my catalytic converter fixed back and just as I suspected, the performance didn't change. I got the car scanned thoroughly by two very experienced mechanics. The error code remained P3041. The last mechanic said the error code could mean two things; faulty Camshaft sensor or that the timing chain is stretched. We changed the sensors (tokunbo, as new was not available) and the codes remained. He's strongly suspecting the chain and advised we check that out. Now I'm getting a little worried because this is a tokunbo engine and I don't want this stress.
Well, I already called the guy who sold the engine and he said he will get someone from honda place abuja to look at it.
My poser is ; is it possible to repair the stretched chain without any implications? Experts, please respond. Thanks

P3041 or p0341, two different codes. Which one of them. Am confused

mayor2013:


P3041 or p0341, two different codes. Which one of them. Am confused

P0341. Cameshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected.

papiroza:

P0341. Cameshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected.

Have you checked out the electrical connection to the camshaft sensor? If yes, was the sensor changed as well?

mayor2013:


Have you checked out the electrical connection to the camshaft sensor? If yes, was the sensor changed as well?

Yes. We checked out the electrical connection and the sensor was changed. Still, the car is a little sluggish....

diportivo:
My guy,you are in luck

My oga,Kingreign is based in abuja

Very competent and reliable

Seek him out thru his moniker

Thank me later

Emekasmart:
Just call lomomike,den u are saved.. Lomomike is the username..

Is lomomike also Kingreign? I guess the moniker changed just like mine after the nairaland "terrorist" attack.
Can anyone confirm both monikers are same? I can't seem to find lomomike here.
Thanks

papiroza:

Thanks bro. Today, I got my catalytic converter fixed back and just as I suspected, the performance didn't change. I got the car scanned thoroughly by two very experienced mechanics. The error code remained P3041. The last mechanic said the error code could mean two things; faulty Camshaft sensor or that the timing chain is stretched. We changed the sensors (tokunbo, as new was not available) and the codes remained. He's strongly suspecting the chain and advised we check that out. Now I'm getting a little worried because this is a tokunbo engine and I don't want this stress.
Well, I already called the guy who sold the engine and he said he will get someone from honda place abuja to look at it.
My poser is ; is it possible to repair the stretched chain without any implications? Experts, please respond. Thanks

[quote author=papiroza post=42632160]

From your write up, you changed Engine yet P3041 still exist. ECM problem.is the most likely issue. Hope you've not disposed off your old engine?

I am kingreign/lomomike

papiroza:



Is lomomike also Kingreign? I guess the moniker changed just like mine after the nairaland "terrorist" attack.
Can anyone confirm both monikers are same? I can't seem to find lomomike here.
Thanks

Bros,both monikers are the same o

But his didnt change after the tsunami

The story of why his changed was even featured on aljazeera

Na season feem wey we no watch finish

diportivo:


Bros,both monikers are the same o

But his didnt change after the tsunami

The story of why his changed was even featured on aljazeera

Na season feem wey we no watch finish

You don make me laugh small

kingreign:


You don make me laugh small

I see you have seen our own replacement on the thread www.nairaland.com/2384754/advice-needed-repair-2008-honda/2

Your code simply means the timing is incorrect. I wouldnt suggest opening the engine you just bought. Its just possible the chain is stretched up and jumped a sprocket or 2. A new chain and tensioner plus proper timing setting should solve it. The job wouldnt take more than an hour. The risks are upsetting the VTC actuator which will start the morning sound. Another risk is getting oil leakages if chain cover is not sealed right.

Seller of the engine gave only 1week guarantee. I suggest you get another engine from the seller but i know they would play hard to get. We fired that engine to Kaduna and back twice in the week to make sure the engine wont throw a code or make a strange noise anytime soon.

papiroza:



Is lomomike also Kingreign? I guess the moniker changed just like mine after the nairaland "terrorist" attack.
Can anyone confirm both monikers are same? I can't seem to find lomomike here.
Thanks

Lomomike is Kingreign. Forget wetin dey write for car body and enter car.

As for your catalytic converter, please put it back wherever you removed it from. Just contact kingreign first and your problem is half solved.

So, I took the vehicle to car doctor for a look after i have changed the camshaft sensors without any improvement . He performed the magic and the car now runs super well. However, the VSA and CEL remained on. According to him, he checked all the electrical wire connections on the vehicle. Further checks revealed that the timing is incorrect. He corrected it and now the car runs super. Infact, we did 180km/hr while test-driving (the car couldn't do more than 120km/hr before).

I still wish the VSA and CEL get off the car, even though cardoctor said I can drive with the lights on. According to him, every trace points to the fault coming from the ECU. He suggested changing the ECU for the problem to be solved and I'm not ready for that yet. Thanks everyone for your contributions.

adanny01:
I see you have seen our own replacement on the thread www.nairaland.com/2384754/advice-needed-repair-2008-honda/2

Your code simply means the timing is incorrect. I wouldnt suggest opening the engine you just bought. Its just possible the chain is stretched up and jumped a sprocket or 2. A new chain and tensioner plus proper timing setting should solve it. The job wouldnt take more than an hour. The risks are upsetting the VTC actuator which will start the morning sound. Another risk is getting oil leakages if chain cover is not sealed right.

Seller of the engine gave only 1week guarantee. I suggest you get another engine from the seller but i know they would play hard to get. We fired that engine to Kaduna and back twice in the week to make sure the engine wont throw a code or make a strange noise anytime soon.

Yes, I read the thread from A to Z. Thanks.

papiroza:
So, I took the vehicle to car doctor for a look after i have changed the camshaft sensors without any improvement . He performed the magic and the car now runs super well. However, the VSA and CEL remained on. According to him, he checked all the electrical wire connections on the vehicle. Further checks revealed that the timing is incorrect. He corrected it and now the car runs super. Infact, we did 180km/hr while test-driving (the car couldn't do more than 120km/hr before).

I still wish the VSA and CEL get off the car, even though cardoctor said I can drive with the lights on. According to him, every trace points to the fault coming from the ECU. He suggested changing the ECU for the problem to be solved and I'm not ready for that yet. Thanks everyone for your contributions.


Yes, I read the thread from A to Z. Thanks.

As long as VSA light is on, you will be losing some power.

Does it go off when you restart the car and comes on during acceleration?

adanny01:


As long as VSA light is on, you will be losing some power.

Does it go off when you restart the car and comes on during acceleration?

It goes off and comes back each time I restart the car, even before I accelerate. Well, considering what it used to be, the car runs very well now.

when u put it in gear, and the ac is on without. moving the car, does the engine vibrate?

when u put it in gear, and the ac is on without. moving the car, does the engine vibrate?

Inception:
when u put it in gear, and the ac is on without. moving the car, does the engine vibrate?

I wouldn't understand what u mean by vibration, but the AC works well with the vehicle.

papiroza:
So, I took the vehicle to car doctor for a look after i have changed the camshaft sensors without any improvement . He performed the magic and the car now runs super well. However, the VSA and CEL remained on. According to him, he checked all the electrical wire connections on the vehicle. Further checks revealed that the timing is incorrect. He corrected it and now the car runs super. Infact, we did 180km/hr while test-driving (the car couldn't do more than 120km/hr before).

I still wish the VSA and CEL get off the car, even though cardoctor said I can drive with the lights on. According to him, every trace points to the fault coming from the ECU. He suggested changing the ECU for the problem to be solved and I'm not ready for that yet. Thanks everyone for your contributions.


Yes, I read the thread from A to Z. Thanks.

@papiroza I am having this same issue. Got a toks engine recently but now having a camshaft position sensor error with sluggishness same as yours.

Can I have the mechanic number that works on yours? I am also in Abuja.

Pls I am an issue with honda accord 2008, 4 cylinder.

Was driving when suddenly, it stopped on the road , it cranks on each trial , but engine wont start.

An electrician and mechanic were called.

Discovered fuel was getting to the engine meaning the fuel pump was ok.


Checked/Tested the spark plugs with the ignition coil and discovered that there was no sparks at the plug head.
Suspecting it was a current issue.

All other sensors connection that was seen still looked connected.

Scanned diagnosis brought like 66 errors codes ,

We suspected brainbox, we brought another brainbox , called someone to program the brainbox. The car started, tried moving front and back, the car moved . BUT THE DRIVE GEAR KEEPS BLINKING.


The brainbox programmer said its because the last serial digit on the new ECM was not exact.

We rescanned with the new ECM and error codes was reduced to 5 error codes


So pls I want to know-
- if the problem is really the brainbox or should another electrician check for something else?

-Can the old brainbox be fixed?

-How much is cost of Honda Accord 2008 brainbox (pple are telling me 170k, which I think is expensive)?

-Finding the exact brainbox has been difficult in PH, what guarantees do I have on brainbox brought from outside the state (Lagos,Onitsha).

Pls help

Rotepim:
Pls I am an issue with honda accord 2008, 4 cylinder.

Was driving when suddenly, it stopped on the road , it cranks on each trial , but engine wont start.

An electrician and mechanic were called.

Discovered fuel was getting to the engine meaning the fuel pump was ok.


Checked/Tested the spark plugs with the ignition coil and discovered that there was no sparks at the plug head.
Suspecting it was a current issue.

All other sensors connection that was seen still looked connected.

Scanned diagnosis brought like 66 errors codes ,

We suspected brainbox, we brought another brainbox , called someone to program the brainbox. The car started, tried moving front and back, the car moved . BUT THE DRIVE GEAR KEEPS BLINKING.


The brainbox programmer said its because the last serial digit on the new ECM was not exact.

We rescanned with the new ECM and error codes was reduced to 5 error codes


So pls I want to know-
- if the problem is really the brainbox or should another electrician check for something else?

-Can the old brainbox be fixed?

-How much is cost of Honda Accord 2008 brainbox (pple are telling me 170k, which I think is expensive)?

-Finding the exact brainbox has been difficult in PH, what guarantees do I have on brainbox brought from outside the state (Lagos,Onitsha).

Pls help

I have a spare brain box but it's for v6. Brain box is 35k for your car.

[img][/img]

symbianDON:
I have a spare brain box but it's for v6. Brain box is 35k for your car.

This is the serial number of my own brainbox, does it match your own?

37820-r60-u54