How to build your dream home

Part Four of Seven:
Breaking Ground

Frame the walls of your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts.
As you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing. [8]
Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.
Plumb the walls and brace them securely. Install sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.
Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses . You may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home.
Set each truss in the correct location. Generally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak.
Install diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight. [9]
Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter. Build outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards.
In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.
Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier. To make sure the elements don't set you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier.
Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors. Many locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able.
Install your final roof . You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.

Part Five of Seven:
Building the Walls and Roof

Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain vents in walls. These can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.
Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping. Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush.
Rough-in electrical outlets . Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device.
Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.
Install insulation . Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than warmer areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls. [10]
Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage.
Install your ceilings . Gypsum wallboard made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.

Part Six of Seven:
Starting on the Interior

Install plumbing fixtures as necessary . Install the bathtub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.
Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls. Traditionally, builders will use gypsum wallboard, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked 3 ⁄ 8 inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wallboard, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.
Place wall trim . Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.
Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely, you will want to prime wallboard, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners.
Be sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.
Install cabinets and other mill work . You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.
Install flooring. Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving 3 ⁄ 8 inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.
Install appliances and have the utilities turned on. To start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you'll want to move in and start enjoying your new home.

Part Seven of Seven:
Installing the Essentials

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Reader Questions and Answers
Building codes require various inspections at different stages of construction, so they are not included in steps. Some basic inspections may include:
Foundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings
Slab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab
Framing inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other roofing
Electrical rough-in
Plumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test)
Percolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near streams and bodies of water.
Mechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation)
Final inspections on each scope of work
Coordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility.
Use a project plan such as www.homebuildingprojectplan.com to organize your thoughts and timelines.

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