captainking:
Hello intelligent guruz... I use Honda accord 2000 v4....so.. I was playing with my car scanner and I got these data I can't really Inteprete thou I try to learn from this house... Please guruz.. Help interprete these data...

Pics below..

Cc..gazzuzz, mayor123, nurey, honmusa, obiekemondautos, cardoctor, timifakay, autologic, chukel, kingreign, egunmojaji, and other guruz...
Thanks house..
...
NB...i used torque pro

timifakay:


To get fault codes:
Press that circle by the lower left then press fault codes on the list that follows.
That's when you vehicle will be scanned for DTCs

captainking:
i scanned it and it threw a code... Thou I know the codes ain't complete cos I cleared it days ago and haven't driven the car since then for it to throw back the codes.. But all the codes it threw were oxygen sensor related.. It threw about 2 codes..

Readonee35L:
Some gurus here na olodo.
They can't interpret real time data.

They can only Google search Cel and ecu stored codes.
Lol...
Don't expect much response on this thread.

Them go dodge the thread like the plague.

nurey:


Cc honmusa, autologic

As for me, I can't interpret live data

Readonee35L:
Some gurus here na olodo.
They can't interpret real time data.

They can only Google search Cel and ecu stored codes.
Lol...
Don't expect much response on this thread.

Them go dodge the thread like the plague.

autologic:
No analysis can be made here cos this is a set static data at a particular instance or condition. The conditions need to be varied to make analytical sense out of the whole array of dynamic data eg idle condition ,acceleration, deceleration, addition of fuel ,removal of fuel etc . Beside it is only the set of scandata pid that is relevant to the issue suspected that the focus will be not some random pid and who determine what pid the spotlight will be on is the technicians that is involve in troubleshooting and the capability of the scan tool to give out the needed pid !
Since the op alreay made mention of O2 sensor issue them the set of pid that the focus will be should be the fuel trims(O value) ! Fuel system type (absent) ,fuel injection (absent) etc .
I advice that you make use of professional scan tool

mayor2013:
Would advice if you want real actual values use a professional scan tool. I can't even see values for LTFT(long term fuel trim) and STFT (short term fuel trim)

mayor2013:


Did you do any better

Readonee35L:

Did I claim to be a guru.
Or you see my workshop address for my signature

captainking:
Hello intelligent guruz... I use Honda accord 2000 v4....so.. I was playing with my car scanner and I got these data I can't really Inteprete thou I try to learn from this house... Please guruz.. Help interprete these data...

Pics below..

Cc..gazzuzz, mayor123, nurey, honmusa, obiekemondautos, cardoctor, timifakay, autologic, chukel, kingreign, egunmojaji, and other guruz...
Thanks house..
...
NB...i used torque pro

ZIMDRILL:

olaboy1:
Try and find out the required temperature your car should be. I think 85 degrees should be the temp when fully warmed, so your 70 degrees is number one suspect before oxygen sensor. Change thermostat first and if it still doesn’t work then change engine coolant temperature sensor or if you have the money just change both at once.
When I changed mine there was a very big difference in MPG, also clean your MAF sensor thoroughly, find YouTube videos on how to thoroughly clean a MAF.

As for your fuel trims, the only way to know if they are working and not just static is to raise your RPM at 1500 and 2500 to see if your STFT will change, it should change under normal circumstances because you are adding load by raising your RPM.

I hope I have been able to help in my little understanding since I’m not a mechanic.

OP Make I borrow small space from your thread, does any car guru in the house know much about in tank fuel filter for Toyota engine 1AZ-FE, some say I don’t ever need to change it which I doubt. I need help on this as I read this could cause engine lean condition.

captainking:
Diportivo come in here o...and bring your squad

diportivo:


the squad had to be in abuja for FEC meeting....sorry bro

our esteemed (gu)gurus have said u shld ditch dis ur playboy mansion scanner, get a pro scanner,drive to owerri and back if u want anything to be read

when u get to okija,holla me

olaboy1:
Try and find out the required temperature your car should be. I think 85 degrees should be the temp when fully warmed, so your 70 degrees is number one suspect before oxygen sensor. Change thermostat first and if it still doesn’t work then change engine coolant temperature sensor or if you have the money just change both at once.
When I changed mine there was a very big difference in MPG, also clean your MAF sensor thoroughly, find YouTube videos on how to thoroughly clean a MAF.

As for your fuel trims, the only way to know if they are working and not just static is to raise your RPM at 1500 and 2500 to see if your STFT will change, it should change under normal circumstances because you are adding load by raising your RPM.

I hope I have been able to help in my little understanding since I’m not a mechanic.

OP Make I borrow small space from your thread, does any car guru in the house know much about in tank fuel filter for Toyota engine 1AZ-FE, some say I don’t ever need to change it which I doubt. I need help on this as I read this could cause engine lean condition.

Alvin007:
Op...regarding the pics of the o2 sensor readings you posted here...it looks ok...provided the downstream o2 sensor(o2 sensor 2) doesn't switch readings as frequently as the o2 sensor 1(exhaust manifold sensor)..in the case of your car...while on idle..it's normal for both of them to switch readings intermittently while your vehicle moves...but, on idle, the downstream sensor should change less frequently, while the sensor 1 switches more often...
If both switch at the same rate while your car is on idle, it means you have a catalyst issue..I'm not sure your car uses a mass air flow sensor.

ZIMDRILL:
you are being lazy to do simple analysis

most are self explanatory

eg throttle position was 10% measurement goes to last digit which 100%

revs you should know if you dont stop driving

coolant/water temperature

etc

those measurement are useless are you are comparing them with manufactures data or data from part manufacturer

as for 02 sensor number no two cars can have the same exact readings even when the part is working fine

why are you comparing your friends reading and yours ?