Introduction
Traveling through the West African coast had always been a thing on my bucket list. Being a frequent traveler meant I had visited almost every major city individually, but I had always wanted to visit more than one at a stretch. For the records, I had been to Benin republic twice, the most recent in 2010. My last visit to Ghana was December 2017, Abidjan was the most recent, January 2018. Togo remained the only country I had not visited. I always have to travel many times during the year to some of these countries but this is always done by air. Travelling by air shields us away from many realities because we hardly get to see what a country is made up of. Many times, you get picked up from the airport and straight to the hotel. From the hotel to your business or leisure points and then back to the airport.
My experiences in Europe had always been fascinating. Transitioning from Amsterdam (Netherlands) to Koln (Germany) to Brussels (Belgium) and then to Paris (France) had always been very easy and interesting with the high speed trains linking major cities in Europe. This experience was one I was hoping to see its equivalent in West Africa, after all, we are the ECOWAS.
I would like to state that, although there are more countries that make up the West African region, for me, I consider Cote D’iviore to be the last bus stop even though it wasn’t part of this trip. Maybe this would change in the near future.
Planning
First thing I had to do was to choose dates. For me, I always have the luxury of being free doing the year as my work place usually close for the year. My plan was to spend a minimum of two days in each city. I choose 26th December 2018 to 2nd January 2019.
To choose hotels, I downloaded the “Booking” app. I checked for hotels within my budget and close to the major road in each city. I needed to stay in place not too far from the main road so that transitioning form one city to the other would not be a problem. Reviews on each hotel helped me filter my choices and finally, I had my hotels booked. I chose hotels which did not require a credit card for booking but this meant that I needed to keep in touch daily. My plan finally looked like this.
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Ensure all necessary traveling documents are available. The international passport and the yellow card are both very essential. You can process your yellow card the toll gate close to the Murtala Muhammed international airport. It costs a little over ₦ 2,500.
Also, ensure you know how to use google map very well. Before embarking on this journey, check the map very well, make a list of all the places you want to visit in each city. Download offline maps for these regions. Also checking the map would help with your hotel choice. It is best to choose hotels central to where you want to visit to reduce transport cost. The offline map will help with navigation even if you do not have access to the internet.
Also, plan your money very well. I advise that you hold some Naira and Dollars. Also, you can fund an Ecobank, Access or UBA account and inform the bank of your intended journey. These banks operate in the West African region, most especially Ecobank. Dollars are like your security whenever your naira fail to give you value for exchange or ATMs do not work, you can work to any local market and change Dollars.
Lagos to Cotonou
Although, I am a frequent traveler, I had just renewed my passport in August and I knew the Immigration officers would treat me like a newbie. Also, it would be the first time my wife would be crossing the Nigerian border and I wanted it to be smooth so I decided to go for a transport line that would cross us over the Seme border. After various checks on different transport lines, we settled with ABC transport. We chose the luxurious bus, a decision I regretted. Although, the major reason we chose the big bus was to have enough leg space an since the buses have toilets in them. A ticket costs ₦ 14,350 per person.
We also booked our return flights on Air peace, since we had decided to fly back to Lagos after the tour.
We got to the Amuwo Odofin Park by 5:30 am since departure was planned for 6:30 am, all necessary documentations done and this was where we were informed that each person would pay ₦ 2,000 for passport stampings as we were both carrying virgin passports. Now, you need to understand what virgin passport means in this context. No matter the amount of Visas or even that country’s entry and exit stamps you have, as long as you have never passed through that border by road, it is considered a “virgin passport”.
We finally set out of the ABC Park by 7:40 am. The bus official served every passenger rice and chicken alongside table water. (I suggest you sort your own food before the journey) The journey from the bus park to the Seme border was chaotic. The bus stopped at various intervals to do business. Offloading and On loading of goods. We finally got to the Seme border by 11:35 am. The Seme border is very porous and dirty. Actually, you can cross the border with motorcycles by paying some little fee.
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Here, the bus stopped at the Nigerian part of the border, an Immigration officer, health and NDLEA officials all boarded the bus to do their checks. This is where the health official advertised the yellow card stating that it costs ₦4,000. A few people purchased it. Everything was done and we moved to the Benin republic side of the Seme border. Their officials stepped in, did their checks and the bus finally moved out of the border by 12:12 pm.
Immediately after leaving the border, the bus stopped again to business. On loading and offloading of bags of rice. We moved a little and stopped again for customs checks. We finally moved again by 12:40 pm and arrived at the ABC park at 14:00 pm. I pitied the passengers going to Accra on that same bus, imagine arriving in a city you know nothing about by midnight. Also, I advise you to make it a habit of using the early hours of the day to do your travelling.
We called our hotel (Hotel Residence Easy) and they came to pick us – for free.
In Cotonou
By 15:40 pm we had settled into our room and needed to make use of the remaining daylight. The first thing we did was to calculate all the money in FCFA that we would need for our stay in both the Benin Republic and Togo so that we could go do currency exchange and not have an excess with us.
Luckily for us, the hotel driver was planned to visit the market to buy some things, so we followed him and he showed us round. We did our currency exchange with a Yoruba woman inside the market (N617 = FCFA 1,000). We got back to the hotel in time and had a stroll to check out nearby restaurants. We had planned to eat out all through our journey so that we can save cost and also to be able to really enjoy and understand the local dishes which would definitely be over priced in hotels or not available. We found a very good restaurant just 5 minutes’ walk away from the hotel with a plate of Salad with a drink costing Fcfa 1800 (₦900).
The next day (Thursday 27th Dec.), we visited the Cotonou market with the intention of buying wears and shoes since we have always heard that the majority of the shoes come from here. A tour around the village was disappointing because we could not find anything that we wanted. We were later informed that Mondays are the main market days for shoes. Cotonou has very good roads, little traffic and a whole lot of motorcycles. It is also very cheap to move around with motorcycles. From our hotel to the market costs fcfa500 (₦320) per person. The people of Cotonou are very friendly and life looks comfortable here. The only person who tried to scam us was the money changer in the market who also happened to be a Nigerian. The gutters all have pavements, making the roads look larger and cleaner. Nobody parks anywhere on the streets and you would only find police officials with whistles at few junctions to direct traffic. The traffic lights work here and everybody obeys it.
Cotonou to Lome
Our stay in Cotonou ended on Friday 28th December. We woke up early and left the hotel by bike to the park. Actually, hotel residences easy offer free pick up and drop off but we could not wait till 8:00 am for the driver to resume. Our bike rides to the park cost fcfa500 (₦320) each.
We arrived at the park by 7:30 am. Luckily, we got a car which was going to the Aflao border. From the map, I knew that our hotel in Lome is very close to the border and just two streets away from the main express. We paid the fare of Fcfa 5000 (₦3,085) each for the journey and the driver requested an extra Fcfa 1000 (₦617) for a customs check of our bags at the border. By 08:18 am, the journey started. The journey was very smooth and quiet. The road from central Cotonou to the Hilacondji border is a straight and long one. We arrived at the border by 10:20 am.
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The driver dropped all passengers and told us to meet him at the park inside Lome. Now, this is the first we were crossing the border by foot so I attached my former passport to the new one. The Benin republic stamping point is to your as you approach the border. Painted in light blue colour. The official asked us to sit. He checked through our passports, noticed I was a frequent traveler and called us into a room. He then asked for fcfa 2000 each before he could stamp our passports. I informed him that I had mailed the country’s internal affairs of my coming and that we were told we would not need to pay any amount to cross the border. Immediately, he stamped the passports, smiled at us and wished us journey mercies.
We passed the officials who checked the stamp and directed us to the Togo immigration officers. Here, they also requested Fcfa 2000 for passport stamping and I used the same story but these ones did not bulge. Infact the officer directed me to a senior officer who told me it is a normal rule in their country to pay the fcfa2000. By now, our driver had walked back looking for us. We paid Fcfa 2000 per person and our passports were stamped. Time was now 10:43 am.
We dropped at the junction just two streets behind the hotel (Hotel Aurore) and dragged our bags in using google map to navigate. Time check – 11:50 am.
In Lome
After settling in, we visited the big market (grand marche), here we also changed some currency from naira to Fcfa and Cedis. We changed only 100 Cedis which we expect should serve us for the trip to Ghana. The market is a very big one, reason its called “grande”. Here, we scouted for the legendary donkunu food, bought fried fish and went back to the hotel to enjoy the day. The next day was not so adventurous because my wife decided to make her hair and I watched TV for the major part. In the evening, we took bikes into the town to visit my grandfather. Bikes cost around 400 Fcfa (₦250) for a one way journey.
I would like to point out that everyday, I made sure I kept in touch with the hotel in the next city to be visited. I ensured I did this because all my bookings were done without using my card and its better to do this and avoid stories.
The next day, we set out to the next and final city, Accra.
It took us just 15 minutes to get to the border since the hotel was near. Taxi driver charged us fcfa 800. By 8:20 am we arrived at the border and before the driver could find a place to park, people swamped at us. Almost everybody was advertising how they could help us cross the border. Others were advertising their currency exchange business. It became chaotic and I decided we would remain in the car until there was calm. Eventually, they called us a man who said he has a taxi which could take us across the border and into Accra. It looked similar to the journey from Cotonou to Lome and since it would take away stress, we agreed. I showed him the area we were going and after minutes of negotiation, we both settled for 50 Ghc per passenger. We also agreed he looked for two more people since we were not ready to chatter the taxi at the cost of 200 Ghc per person. He later negotiated with the taxi man from Lome to cross the border with our belongings while we walk to get our passports stamped. I guess it was cheaper for him to settle the taxi than for him to bring his own taxi out and back inside.
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We got down from the taxi and walked towards the Togo immigration office. After scanning through our passports, the officer demanded fcfa 5000 per person. My jaws dropped. He walked us out of the room and that was when I knew we were in for a tough time. I walked back in and offered fcfa 1000 each, he refused and walked me out again. Eventually, he agreed to a total of fcfa 3500 for both of us after my wife begged for 30 minutes. While she was begging, I had gone to change a few fcfa to cedis since the only 100 Ghc we had would be used on the taxi to Accra. Here, I changed fcfa 10,000 to 166 Ghc.
We paid the officer, got our passports stamped and moved over to the Ghana immigration office. Here, the health officials asked for our yellow cards first. They looked through and ushered us to the Immigration officers who also requested 20 Ghc for my wife’s passport and 10 Ghc for mine. We stamped our passports and crossed over to meet the driver. Here, the driver from the town asked for more money and we eventually gave him fcfa 400 extra. Totaling fcfa 1200 from the hotel to the border.
We left the Aflao border by 10:05 am because it took the driver a whole lot of time to get passengers. It seems many people prefer the bus. The road was smooth but not as smooth as the ones in the Cotonou or Lome. The environment looked similar to the Nigerian environment and we felt relaxed knowing we were in an English speaking country. The driver requested for me from only us when he wanted to buy fuel, I suspected foul play and gave him half telling him we would pay the remaining half after he dropped us. A little after an hour drive, around 11:17 am, the taxi parked for an immigration check. We were asked to open our bags for inspection and it didn’t take long before we moved again. I recommend you use a taxi for this journey from the Aflao border into Accra because the journey is a long one.

In Accra
Just as we were approaching Accra, the driver stated that he would not be taking us to the hotel anymore since we did not pay 200 Ghc. He denied all our discussions before the journey and then I began to see a pattern similar to the bus drivers in Lagos. I agreed he dropped us anywhere suitable for him and luckily, his new negotiated deal with the latest passenger was somewhere close to the hotel environment. We dropped from the taxi by 13:40 pm settled the bill and dragged our bags into the hotel. Time check – 13:45 pm.
After settling into the hotel, as usual, we searched for nearby restaurants and here the choices were enormous. It was like the streets of Lagos. Food everywhere. Our first meal was the controversial Ghana jollof.
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I would like to state here that the Ghana jollof is very sweet and deserves all the comparison with the Nigerian jollof. However, the Nigerian jollof has an extra taste I did not get from the Ghana jollof. Since we planned to stay 3 nights in Accra, our first day, 30th December, was used to rest and make plans for the days to come.
On the second day, the final day of the year, we visited the big market. Public bus fares cost around 1.5 Ghc to 3 Ghc per person. Traffic light works here and the city is small but not congested. Coconut water is the major beverage here and you can find it in every corner of Accra.
We visited the Nkwame Nkrumah Park where you have to pay 10 Ghc per person. After that, we visited the Independence square and the cultural center. The day after, New Year day, we spent it at the Accra mall.
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Here, our journey ended and we parked our bags and prepared for the flight back to Lagos.
On the 2nd of January, we woke up early, booked an Uber and headed for the airport. I was marveled by the new kotoka International Airport. It is a world standard airport. We got our tickets and flew back to Lagos.

Are these monies they were demanding to stamp passports statutory fees?

nickxtra:
Are these monies they were demanding to stamp passports statutory fees?

NO! The immigration officials at both Hilla- Codji and Aflao exploited OP cos he is a Nigerian (they believe Nigerians are loaded cash-wise) and he was with his wife (he will always be a gentleman).

My friends and I are planning on going to some west African state like you did. But all i could see is the true state of Africa, probably the whole of West Africa. It's all rotten with courrption and extortion. i'm totaly discourage .

Mirror97:
My friends and I are planning on going to some west African state like you do. But all i could see is the true state of Africa, probably the whole of West Africa. It's all rotten with courrption and extortion. i'm totaly discourage .

Those friends do not include me shey?
Clap for yourself

gentlebullet:

NO! The immigration officials at both Hilla- Codji and Aflao exploited OP cos he is a Nigerian (they believe Nigerians are loaded cash-wise) and he was with his wife (he will always be a gentleman).

Says who?? @ hadeehart101

Mirror97:
Says who?? @ hadeehart101

Don't comman give me bobo here joor

nickxtra:
Are these monies they were demanding to stamp passports statutory fees?

In some places they are, in some places, they just want to scam. At the Togo Side heading in to Ghana, they just bill you anyhow. You have to negotiate.

At the Ghana side, they ave written and placed on the wall. Infact, at the airport in Accra on our way back, we asked why they didn't ask for money because we were flying and they said, we had paid the money for stamping with the flight charges.

gentlebullet:

NO! The immigration officials at both Hilla- Codji and Aflao exploited OP cos he is a Nigerian (they believe Nigerians are loaded cash-wise) and he was with his wife (he will always be a gentleman).

The thing is; they just want to be rude to Nigerians. Our green passport really doesn't help anywhere.

Mirror97:
My friends and I are planning on going to some west African state like you did. But all i could see is the true state of Africa, probably the whole of West Africa. It's all rotten with courrption and extortion. i'm totaly discourage .

Sorry to burst your bubble. I would advise you go on the journey, it would be an experience. Just make sure you take the tips from the write up.

oluwasedago:


The thing is; they just want to be rude to Nigerians. Our green passport really doesn't help anywhere.

Well from my working experience, I will say some gullible Nigerians sold out others to ECOWAS states border officials.

well said, thank you oluwasedago

You don't tell us the cost of the hotels and the flight. How much should one budget for 2weeks.

@oluwasedago is there a better alternative to ABC transport for road travel?

Damn, looking at those prices, it seems like travelling in Africa is expensive.

Most of the. Borders u were cheated like Togo. And even Ghana border ur topay 10 cedis to stamp but all the same it's a life journey experience welcome home bro

HEADYWORLD:
You don't tell us the cost of the hotels and the flight. How much should one budget for 2weeks.

Hotel costs are based on whatever hotel you choose. i would say on the average budget N12,000 per night for a very good hotel. Like i said, you can use www.booking.com for that.
Flight was N44K per person on air peace from Accra to lagos (One way).

safex:
@oluwasedago is there a better alternative to ABC transport for road travel?

Yes! there are a whole lot!
1- Cross country
2- Ifesinachi
3- GUO
You can make searces online.
if you want a very cheap option, just find your way to iya iba and take cabs that will take you to the border. At the border, you can pay and cross and then take another cab into the city.

pansophist:
Damn, looking at those prices, it seems like travelling in Africa is expensive.

Traveling within Africa is very expensive. This is one of the reasons why many don't see past there current location. Our leaders aren't encouraging moving around.

oluwasedago:


Traveling within Africa is very expensive. This is one of the reasons why many don't see past there current location. Our leaders aren't encouraging moving around.

Not good. I'm going for a tour through 6 European countries. The flight price was less than 40k in total (seven leg trip). Imagine, buying seven different flights for 90euros. Its sad what the leaders have done to that continent.

pansophist:


Not good. I'm going for a tour through 6 European countries. The flight price was less than 40k in total (seven leg trip). Imagine, buying seven different flights for 90euros. Its sad what the leaders have done to that continent.

Wow, thats nice and very cheap. I did a four country tour for in 2015 using train. Fast, cheap and efficient. We are long way behind.

oluwasedago:


Yes! there are a whole lot!
1- Cross country
2- Ifesinachi
3- GUO
You can make searces online.
if you want a very cheap option, just find your way to iya iba and take cabs that will take you to the border. At the border, you can pay and cross and then take another cab into the city.

Okay. Thanks so much.

Please, I will like to know the TOTAL cost of the whole trip. Thank You

authe911:
Please, I will like to know the TOTAL cost of the whole trip. Thank You

in other to have a rough estimate

authe911:

in other to have a rough estimate

?

How did you cope with french. What if someone travels without escort and not being able to understand french?

Who's going to Ghana this December?

emmybernard:
Who's going to Ghana this December?

what's happening in Ghana in December?

Motherland African celebration

chrisagyei:
what's happening in Ghana in December?