Where can I scan my 1998 Toyota Camry? Bought it Tokumbo in January 2012.

It consumes too much fuel. My route is Satellite Town to Victoria Island and I spend N9,000 on Fuel in 4 days. Its a 4 cylinder engine.

Please talk to me!

Wow! Even my car, daily driver, that is V6 does not consume more than that amount in a month. I usually spend between 6k to 7k, but have never spent more than 9k, every month in fueling the car so far, unless when taking it for long distance.

I believe you were the person I spoke with this morning, about your car issue. Aside scanning the car, there are so many threads here that have treated overfueling issue. I will post the links here, as I find them.

The easiest for you, like we discussed on the phone, would be to try and get a cheap place you can scan the car and post the DTC (Diagnostics Trouble codes) codes you pulled. We can then advice.

Ikenna.

#9000 is pretty too much man...i use a 98 camry too and V6 all i spend is atmost 7k which is full tank from sunday - sunday and i stay around ogba and work in lekki(that is ogba to lekki 5days in a week) so you really need to scan to know whats up...I can help you scan at #5k and if you wanna buy the scanner to have a copy i can sell for you at #40k...Contact me on 08028290680 if interested

@stepedie thank you for this insight... Finally I'm convinced that my car its actually gulping fuel.

appleton: @stepedie thank you for this insight... Finally I'm convinced that my car its actually gulping fuel.

Hey! Go to my profile, click on my posts and go through them. You will find some threads there where similar issues like yours were treated. You might get some info there.

Ikenna.

Did a scan lately and came up wit d following Codes

P0171
P0125
P0401
P1130
P1300
P1133

appleton: Did a scan lately and came up wit d following Codes

P0171
P0125
P0401
P1130
P1300
P1133

P0171 - The mass air flow sensor is dirty or faulty
P0125 - insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor
P0401 - The differential pressure feedback sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
The is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon build up
The EGR valve is faulty
The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vacuum
P1130 - Sensor circuit range / performance (bank 1 sensor 1)
P1300 - No IGF signal to ECM while engine is running (IGF - ignition fault)
P1133 - faulty primary oxygen sensor

As you can see, your car needs drastic surgery.

appleton: Did a scan lately and came up wit d following Codes

P0171
P0125
P0401
P1130
P1300
P1133

O boy! All these from one vehicle! Whats the noise about Toyota being tthe most reliable?!

Whoever was the previous owner of this car doesnt deserve to be a car owner. The fellow ignored issues as they were coming up, until he got tired & got rid of it. Human being!

Anyway, to add to what Lexusgs430 has explained:

1. The no. 1 DTC also indicates that the system is too lean. If I were you, I would start with checking & cleaning air filter element in the air filter box, before you go to AFM,MAF or IAT/MAP depending on the system the car uses. And most importantly, check for vacuum leak. Its one of the cause of lean mixtures too. Vacuum lines comprises of the big rubber tube from air filter box, AFM to throttle body & also small hoses attach to EGR valve, MAP, throttle body, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Cruise control unit, etc. Not the lines/hoses that carry fluid. Vacuum leak also increases fuel consumption. Check if any of them is leaking or not attached somewhere. All hoses must be well clamped or tight where they are plugged in. Some people clean their MAF with carburretor cleaner, but I would advice you use methylated spirit that is not aggressive as carb cleaner. What type does your car uses? AFM, MAF or MAP? If its MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), then you should first clean the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature sensor), usually installed on throttle body or on tube from air filter box to throttle body. MAP system has its IAT separately installed, unlike MAF that its IAT is incoporated or part of the MAF sensor. Make sure that the MAP sensor harness & vacuum line is well cleaned & attached tight on the sensor. The sensor should have 3 wires.

2. CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) is one of the major determinants of amount of fuel that injectors spray into combustion chambers, together with AFM, MAF or IAT/MAP & o2. So if its faulty or sends wrong signal to ECU/PCM, the car will guzzle fuel like HELL, like yours is doing. Usually it should give symptom on the eshaust tail by emitting black smoke under heavy acceleration. Touch your exhaust tail opening, you should feel/touch black sooth. If the sensor is unplugged or the plug is corroded, it will also send wrong signal or no signal atall to ECU. So you should start by checking if the wiring connector/plug of the sensor is corroded. If its corroded, unplug, clean & plug back. It should fix the problem. You can also check if the sensor is ok by unplugging & checking the resistance of the sensor with DMM (Digital MultiMeter). The resistance value should drop as coolant/engine temperature increases. If this is not happening, then the sensor is faulty, replace. You should also check voltage signal, that is, if the signal wire of the CTS has 5 to 4 volts with DMM, by unplugging the sensor, switch on ignition, set DMM to Volt & test one of the two wires to the sensor with positive lead of DMM & grounding the black lead of the DMM. Test both wires, one of them should give 5 volts (signal wire to ecu), while the 2nd wire should read nothing, since its the sensor ground wire. If none of the sensor 2 wires read 5 volts or less, when the ignition is on, then the problem is with the harness/wires, not the sensor. It means that the signal wire has broken somewhere, disconnected or ECU problem. To know the sensor ground wire, place the positive lead of the DMM on the + battery terminal & probe in the DMM black lead on the 2nd CTS wire that didnt read 5 volts when you checked the signal volts. It should read 12 volts, if the wire still send ground to the sensor. If its not reading 12 volts, then the ground is cut off somewhere. You can re-ground it, not a big deal. See, you need to check the harness & the sensor before you rush to replace the CTS. Because if the problem is with the harness, the problem will remain, nomatter how many times you replace the cts. CTS is usually located/positioned on Thermostat housing. It has only 2 wires attached to it. Dont confuse it with temp sender, which usually have one wire.

3. EGR valve. Not a big deal. Pull out the valve, clean & re-install. Make sure the gasket isnt broken while re-installing. Also check & clean vacuum line attach to the valve.

4. Check no. 6

5. If I understand this DTC (Diagnostic Trouble code), the mixed air/fuel in the no. 1 cylinder is not been ignited (am not sure). But I would check the condition of the spark plug of that cylinder (# 1). I would also check if the plug lead is leaking. If that engine uses coil parks, check the coil of that cylinder, by swapping in another & see what happens. If its Distributor, check spark plug lead of that cylinder & the condition of distributor cap. Check for crack on the cap.

6. O2/oxygen sensor. This sensor, located on exhaust manifold on your engine, fine tunes air/fuel mixture. If faulty or unplugged, it would cause high fuel consumption as well. The sensor can be checked with DMM, if you can find the signal wire to ecu, which is not difficult. I believe the type in your car is the 4 wire type or universal type. Meaning the sensor will have a heater. If the relay that sends 12v feed to the sensor heater fails, the sensor wont send corrent signal to the ecu/pcm, if at all it will send anything. So you need to be sure by testing the wires with DMM to ascertain if the sensor heater relay still work. Even if you change the o2 sensor (which is very expensive) & the sensor heater is not getting + feed from its relay, the sensor will never function. Oxyegen sensor is the sensor screwed in on exhaust manifold very close to the junction where exhaust pipe is bolted on the exhaust manifold.

Issues with your car is purely electrical. Not a big deal, but must be done properly to make them work. Goodluck.

Ikenna.

Hello Appleton,happy to receive your call the other day that after fixing part of this issues your car's fuel consumption has reduced...But am sure by the time you're able to fix others you wont believe that's the car you've being driving in a while...So I'll be expecting you to refer your friends and colleagues to go scan there cars when they have issues and also learn to scan any car u wanna buy should incase you see the check engine light on...Cheers

Why don't you just get your own scanner that works with your laptop.
Only N20k. Abuja/P.H and Lagos Surulere

Works on all Cars from 1996 to today. Standard and Manufactured Codes.

All explained with suggestions on how to fix.

Mr Paul: 0706 357 8028

9000 is pretty too much man...i use a 98 camry too and V4 all i spend is atmost 5k which is full tank from sunday - sunday and i stay around woji and work in rukpokwu(5days in a week) so you really need to scan to know whats up...I can help you scan at #5k and if you wanna buy the scanner to have a copy i can sell for you at #25k...Contact me on 08038772449 if interested