azat:
Boss, see the number on it, written as

DU1
DENSO
192400-1000
12T1741

around it again, another number "100" was written.

Abeg help me o

Oga I still dey wait o. Any hope for me?

Good day Mr Gazzuzz!!! My toyota camry 07 steering vibrates when i accelerate up to 100kmh - 120kmh. Please what could be the cause

croxx86:
Good day Mr Gazzuzz!!! My toyota camry 07 steering vibrates when i accelerate up to 100kmh - 120kmh. Please what could be the cause

Go for wheel balancing.

colossus2:

Go for wheel balancing.

croxx86:
Good day Mr Gazzuzz!!! My toyota camry 07 steering vibrates when i accelerate up to 100kmh - 120kmh. Please what could be the cause

Solved

GAZZUZZ:


Solved

I asked of help regarding airfuel ratio sensor for an 99 accord, ULev, 4 plugs. U asked me to check d part number n send, I did. U said let you check. I have beeen asking you for any update, but you have ignored me instead. Did I offend, boss?

azat:
I asked of help regarding airfuel ratio sensor for an 99 accord, ULev, 4 plugs. U asked me to check d part number n send, I did. U said let you check. I have beeen asking you for any update, but you have ignored me instead. Did I offend, boss?

Toks not possible, you will have to get it online. Try amazon.

GAZZUZZ:


Toks not possible, you will have to get it online. Try amazon.

thank you

Boss Gazzuzz, Compliments of the day.
I noticed that my 2009 toyota corolla (auto transmission)gear jerks when it gets btw 30-40km/hr,
then revs itself and jerks when it gets to 60km/hr.
I've serviced the gearbox using the recommended toyota WS transmission oil, but the situation continued.
I went ahead to scan the car, and the error codes were interpreted to be cylinder misfires which i have solved by changing the plugs and servicing the injectors, but the problem still persists.

Kindly aid me on what next to do.

Thanks in anticipation of your response.

dinyelutochukwu:
Boss Gazzuzz, Compliments of the day.
I noticed that my 2009 toyota corolla (auto transmission)gear jerks when it gets btw 30-40km/hr,
then revs itself and jerks when it gets to 60km/hr.
I've serviced the gearbox using the recommended toyota WS transmission oil, but the situation continued.
I went ahead to scan the car, and the error codes were interpreted to be cylinder misfires which i have solved by changing the plugs and servicing the injectors, but the problem still persists.

Kindly aid me on what next to do.

Thanks in anticipation of your response.

Sorry not much I can do, physical inspection required

Good evening , Please @ Gazzuzz, I want you to please advise me , I have a 2008 honda accord 2.4 ,4 plug , being using over 1 year and half , the engine seized when driving , and i was advised to replace crankshaft , after replacing crankshaft , the car started but was giving a very bad sound , i had to buy new oil pum , the car worked for 3 days and that sound came back, it was aloud grinding sound , The mech now advised me to buy half engine or borale , that the top engine is still good , please what can you advise , and whats the cost of complete engine and half engine?/ because i am not really buoyant with the price quote have gotten in ibadan today

fernado56:
Good evening , Please @ Gazzuzz, I want you to please advise me , I have a 2008 honda accord 2.4 ,4 plug , being using over 1 year and half , the engine seized when driving , and i was advised to replace crankshaft , after replacing crankshaft , the car started but was giving a very bad sound , i had to buy new oil pum , the car worked for 3 days and that sound came back, it was aloud grinding sound , The mech now advised me to buy half engine or borale , that the top engine is still good , please what can you advise , and whats the cost of complete engine and half engine?/ because i am not really buoyant with the price quote have gotten in ibadan today

Don't buy half, buy the top and bottom (head cylinder and block) if you can't afford it, kindly park the car. There are a lot of engine tales on car talk about engine failures as a result of trying to be economical, but at the end they still go and get the whole engine again.

GAZZUZZ:


Don't buy half, buy the top and bottom (head cylinder and block) if you can't afford it, kindly park the car. There are a lot of engine tales on car talk about engine failures as a result of trying to be economical, but at the end they still go and get the whole engine again.

Thanks at gazzuzz can you give a close budget for top and bottom? and is it the same with whole engine??

fernado56:


Thanks at gazzuzz can you give a close budget for top and bottom? and is it the same with whole engine??

From my checks, no one will want to sell a top and bottom for that particular engine Unless he's selling at the price of the engine.

Oga Gazzuzz, do u do body work and painting ? What's d cost ?

igbsam:
Oga Gazzuzz, do u do body work and painting ? What's d cost ?

Yess call 08023251039

GAZZUZZ:

Sorry not much I can do, physical inspection required

Thank you for your kind and sincere response.

I have a problem with my RAV 4 2007 model, automatic steering. Just in morning when I started up, I noticed unusual lights on in the car dashboard. I went to see my tech to scan the problem with his MaxiCheck.
Results are below in the image attached. Can you help on this? Because the tech said he cannot do anything.

alexhak75:
I have a problem with my RAV 4 2007 model, automatic steering. Just in morning when I started up, I noticed unusual lights on in the car dashboard. I went to see my tech to scan the problem with his MaxiCheck.
Results are below in the image attached. Can you help on this? Because the tech said he cannot do anything.

I use a crappy phone and cannot see the displayed result, please copy and paste here.

Good day Mr Gazzuzz! Please I need your advice....My car a toyota spider had been having suspension issues. The driving isn't smooth as I always hear a sound especially when on rough roads and I feel every little bump on the road. I have replaced my shocks and stabilizer linkages but it still persists.

croxx86:
Good day Mr Gazzuzz! Please I need your advice....My car a toyota spider had been having suspension issues. The driving isn't smooth as I always hear a sound especially when on rough roads and I feel every little bump on the road. I have replaced my shocks and stabilizer linkages but it still persists.

I know toyota but what is toyota spider?

Check tyre pressures and reduce to 32psi max, check the brakepad clips, and the shockabsorber again. Also check sway bar bushings.

Hello Gazzuz. You're an example to us all. Integrity and demonstrable experience are key. Thank you.

Now, let's say I'm inexperienced with the nitty-gritty of cars. But I drive this 2001 Highlander that stalls on idle and surges sometimes when moving from idle. It was serviced recently. The alternator died on me but it's back alive now - something with the serpentine belt and another repair my brother supervised because I had travelled.

I tend to be penny wise and pound foolish. I'm usually a bottom-half-of-the-fuel-gauge fuel user, which I suppose can breed fuel pump issues.

Last time I drove it, the engine actually went off a few times after I started and was reversing. Overcame this by going HAM on the accelerator. And when I ran into traffic later, it rough-idled if I didn't put it in drive or park. I have a mechanic (calls himself an engineer and all that, but forgive my skepticism; a multimeter sounded alien to him) who's been good to me but whose wits I can't 100% guarantee.

In short, what do you advise sir? I'd really appreciate your intervention.

TwoEyedMan:
Hello Gazzuz. You're an example to us all. Integrity and demonstrable experience are key. Thank you.

Now, let's say I'm inexperienced with the nitty-gritty of cars. But I drive this 2001 Highlander that stalls on idle and surges sometimes when moving from idle. It was serviced recently. The alternator died on me but it's back alive now - something with the serpentine belt and another repair my brother supervised because I had travelled.

I tend to be penny wise and pound foolish. I'm usually a bottom-half-of-the-fuel-gauge fuel user, which I suppose can breed fuel pump issues.

Last time I drove it, the engine actually went off a few times after I started and was reversing. Overcame this by going HAM on the accelerator. And when I ran into traffic later, it rough-idled if I didn't put it in drive or park. I have a mechanic (calls himself an engineer and all that, but forgive my skepticism; a multimeter sounded alien to him) who's been good to me but whose wits I can't 100% guarantee.

In short, what do you advise sir? I'd really appreciate your intervention.

I enjoyed your poem bro. If you are in Lagos, just locate his workshop sir.
Check his profile for his contact

colossus2:

I enjoyed your poem bro. If you are in Lagos, just locate his workshop sir.
Check his profile for his contact

Holds laugh

Oga sir, please your insight and advice needed. A 2007 toyota camry came up with the following codes;
P0016- crankshaft position, crankshaft position, correlation bank 1 sensor A

P0138- 02 sensor circuit, high voltage bank 1 Sensor 2.

P0606 - ECM/PCM Processor.

Thanks boss.

blazetitov:
Oga sir, please your insight and advice needed. A 2007 toyota camry came up with the following codes;
P0016- crankshaft position, crankshaft position, correlation bank 1 sensor A

P0138- 02 sensor circuit, high voltage bank 1 Sensor 2.

P0606 - ECM/PCM Processor.

Thanks boss.

Timing seems to be off by a few degrees, or harness of cam sensor disconnected.

Oxygen sensor bank one sensor 2 (if it's a 4cylinder it's the second sensor in the middle of the exhaust pipe)

ECM/PCM error, possible "brainbox" ecm/pcm bad.

Fix all the other errors first and hope the ecm/pcm errors goes away.

TwoEyedMan:
Hello Gazzuz. You're an example to us all. Integrity and demonstrable experience are key. Thank you.

Now, let's say I'm inexperienced with the nitty-gritty of cars. But I drive this 2001 Highlander that stalls on idle and surges sometimes when moving from idle. It was serviced recently. The alternator died on me but it's back alive now - something with the serpentine belt and another repair my brother supervised because I had travelled.

I tend to be penny wise and pound foolish. I'm usually a bottom-half-of-the-fuel-gauge fuel user, which I suppose can breed fuel pump issues.

Last time I drove it, the engine actually went off a few times after I started and was reversing. Overcame this by going HAM on the accelerator. And when I ran into traffic later, it rough-idled if I didn't put it in drive or park. I have a mechanic (calls himself an engineer and all that, but forgive my skepticism; a multimeter sounded alien to him) who's been good to me but whose wits I can't 100% guarantee.

In short, what do you advise sir? I'd really appreciate your intervention.

Boss where's your location? 08023251039.

GAZZUZZ:


Timing seems to be off by a few degrees, or harness of cam sensor disconnected.

Oxygen sensor bank one sensor 2 (if it's a 4cylinder it's the second sensor in the middle of the exhaust pipe)

ECM/PCM error, possible "brainbox" ecm/pcm bad.

Fix all the other errors first and hope the ecm/pcm errors goes away.

Thanks Boss. God bless you and your work.

I cleared the codes and did a re-scan, only code P0016- crankshaft position, crankshaft position, correlation bank 1 sensor A came up and the check engine light went off but came up again this morning.


**Modified: Boss, i gave your number to my friend. He should get in contact soon.

Hi Gazzuzz. Thank you for the time you put in to answer our enquiries for free. God bless you.

I have a small issue with my 2013 Kia Rio 1.4L. Coolant doesn't flow back to the radiator from the overflow tank after the vehicle cools down.

After driving for a while and park i noticed the overflow tank has more coolant than when i set off and the coolant in the radiator is low. When i drain the excess from the tank and pour it back into the radiator it fills it up. I guess that means there is no leak.

I read that the following could cause it;
Bad radiator cap
Loose hose (between radiator and overflow tank)
Top gasket

What i did
I changed the radiotor cap with a new one and then tokunbo but that didn't work. Then i thought maybe they didnt work because it wasn't OEM. So i switched my cap with my colleague who uses the exact same model. Same issue

I change the hose that connect the radiator to the tank and even added clips.

There is no water in my oil and no oil in my water (I guess that might rule out the top gasket)

I even took out the plugs to examine them cause they said if the top gasket was leaking it would show on the plugs (Attached pics of the plugs). I didn't put them back in though cause i ordered new ones months ago.

I really don't know what else to try and i don't want to take the KIA cause that Apapa Oshodi road is hell's highway and the wait period is not convenient. And i don't trust anyone else that is why i have come to you.

I read that the radiator is sucking in air from somewhere that why the coolant isn't going back in.

Brother Gazzuzz i need your help

Thank you.

ozee1kinobi:
Hi Gazzuzz. Thank you for the time you put in to answer our enquiries for free. God bless you.

I have a small issue with my 2013 Kia Rio 1.4L. Coolant doesn't flow back to the radiator from the overflow tank after the vehicle cools down.

After driving for a while and park i noticed the overflow tank has more coolant than when i set off and the coolant in the radiator is low. When i drain the excess from the tank and pour it back into the radiator it fills it up. I guess that means there is no leak.

I read that the following could cause it;
Bad radiator cap
Loose hose (between radiator and overflow tank)
Top gasket

What i did
I changed the radiotor cap with a new one and then tokunbo but that didn't work. Then i thought maybe they didnt work because it wasn't OEM. So i switched my cap with my colleague who uses the exact same model. Same issue

I change the hose that connect the radiator to the tank and even added clips.

There is no water in my oil and no oil in my water (I guess that might rule out the top gasket)

I even took out the plugs to examine them cause they said if the top gasket was leaking it would show on the plugs (Attached pics of the plugs). I didn't put them back in though cause i ordered new ones months ago.

I really don't know what else to try and i don't want to take the KIA cause that Apapa Oshodi road is hell's highway and the wait period is not convenient. And i don't trust anyone else that is why i have come to you.

I read that the radiator is sucking in air from somewhere that why the coolant isn't going back in.

Brother Gazzuzz i need your help

Thank you.

Seen, return your sparkplugs back.

Take pics of the radiator and expansion tank.
Take pics of the pipe connected to radiator.

GAZZUZZ:


Seen, return your sparkplugs back.

Take pics of the radiator and expansion tank.
Take pics of the pipe connected to radiator.

Thanks for responding. Will take the pics this night and upload

Thank you

Hi Gazzuzz, please see pictures below

ozee1kinobi:
Hi Gazzuzz, please see pictures below

Now open expansion tank and let me see if the straw from cover is installed properly.