Change oil frequently:Your dad knew that frequent oil changes were key to keeping his Buick on the road another year. And while owner’s manuals for today’s cars recommend increasing long intervals between oil changes, the fact remains — frequent changes flush abrasive dirt and metal particles out of the engine, prolonging its life. Most owner’s manuals recommend a more frequent interval for “severe conditions.” To maximize the life of your engine, follow the severe intervals recommendations, especially if drive regularly in stop-and-go traffic.

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Avoid overfilling your crankcase with oil:Don’t overfill your engine crankcase with oil. If you do, the oil can rise into the crankshaft, where air bubbles will get churned into the oil.Your oil pump can’t do a good job of circulating oil with air bubbles. The result can be overheating and stress on engine components. Overfilling can also foul your sparkplugs. In fact, overfilling is a bad idea with all automotive fluids.


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Wipe oil pan plug clean:If you do your own oil changes, clean the drain plug and washer with rags before re installing your oil pan. Some plugs are magnetized to trap metal particles.


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Don’t forget the filters:There are several filters (the main ones are oil, fuel, transmission, and air) important to preserving your car engine, and they should be changed according to the schedule in your owner’s manual or as follows:

Change the oil filter at least at every other oil change — every change is even better because the old filter contains nearly a quart of dirty oil that will remain with the new, clean oil. If you change your oil yourself, wipe the filter threads with an anti-seize lubricant, available at auto supply stores.
Check the air filter every two months and replace it when dirty or as part of a tune-up. Air filters are generally easier to get to than oil filters.You find them under the big metal lid in a carbureted engine or in a rectangular box in a fuelinjected engine — check your owner’s manual for the exact location. Extend the life of air filters by blowing them clean with compressed air.
Despite claims by makers and dealers that some newer fuel filters never need changing, it’s smart to have it done once a year. A clogged fuel filter will cause poor engine performance (hesitation and starting difficulties) and is an early warning that there may be corrosion in your gas tank.
Change your transmission fluid filter after the first 5,000 miles (8,000 km) of driving and every 25,000 miles (40,000 km) or two year thereafter.

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Don’t forget the PCV valve:The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is an emissions control device on older cars — check your service manual to see if your car has one.The valve recirculates partially burned gases from the engine’s crankcase to the combustion chamber. Important to a properly functioning engine, the valve should be changed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or as specified in your owner’s manual. In addition to helping you get the most from a tank of gasoline, it helps to prevent the buildup of harmful sludge and corrosion.When replacing your PCV valve, be sure you use the correct one or you may damage your engine.


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Heavier is not always better:Use the oil viscosity grade that’s recommended in your owner’s manual for the temperature range you expect
for the coming season. Lighter grades (lower viscosity, such as SAE 5W-30), often specified for today’s smaller car engines, will deliver easier starts and better engine protection in winter and improved gas mileage throughout the year, thanks to less internal engine friction. Do not use a heavy grade of oil in cold winter climes or you will risk damage to your engine.

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Maintain your transmission:Change automatic transmission fluid and filter after the first 5,000 miles (8,000 km) and after every 25,000 miles (40,000 km) or two years thereafter, or as recommended in your owner’s manual. If you use your vehicle for towing, change the fluid and filter every year. For manual transmissions, change the lubricant (motor oil or gear oil, depending on the car) after the first 5,000 miles and after every 50,000 (80,000 km) thereafter. Use synthetic motor oil or gear lube for longer transmission life unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise.


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Consider adding oil coolers:If you plan to do a lot of towing and your vehicle is not already equipped with coolers, consider having them added. Aftermarket engine oil and transmission fluid coolers are simple, low-cost addons that operate on the same principle as your car’s radiator. The fluid flows through them, and many small fins absorb and dissipate heat. Cooler operating temperatures of engine oil and transmission fluid can add significantly to the life of your engine and transmission.

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Spark plugs do need changing:The advent of electronic ignition and on-board computers has eliminated the need for regular tune-ups, but you still need to change your spark plugs. Many manufacturers recommend changing plugs every 30,000 or 40,000 miles (48,000 or 64,000 km) to ensure good fuel mileage and engine performance. Some new cars come with long-life plugs (sometimes called double platinum plugs) that can last for 100,000 miles (160,000 km). If your car isn’t so equipped, make the switch after 30,000 miles. The extra cost is only a few dollars per spark plug. While you’re at it, change your spark plug wires as well. Their typical life is 50,000 miles (80,000 km). Deteriorated wires can cause those high-tech new spark plugs to foul.


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Avoid hose hassles:Check the hoses under your hood every month or two to avoid the hassle of a broken hose while you’re on the road. With the car cool and off, squeeze the hoses. If they are hard or make a crunching sound, replace them. Ditto if they are extremely soft or sticky.With the car warm but off, examine hoses for bulges and collapsed sections. If you find any, the hose walls are weak, and it’s time to replace the hose. Never drive with a ruptured coolant hose, or you are liable to overheat the engine and damage it. Other hoses are crucial to operation of your power brakes and cruise-control systems.


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Don’t forget the timing belt:On many cars, it’s the belt you can’t see that is the most critical. If your manual says, as many do, that you should replace the timing belt at 50,000 miiles, do it! A failed timing belt can, depending on engine type, cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to your engine.

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Clean your engine:There are several reasons to wash your engine at least every year or two. A clean engine will run cooler than a dirty one. You’ll be more apt to tackle routine belt and hose checks and the like if you know you won’t get covered with grime every time you do so. A clean engine will also make it much easier to spot leaks and to service components. Remember to protect sensitive engine components — including the air intake, distributor, and electrical parts — with plastic bags before getting started. Use dishwashing liquid or other grease-cutting detergents and a bristle brush to scrub engine and components surfaces. Rinse thoroughly. Heavy-duty engine cleaning products are available at automotive parts stores. Follow the directions carefully. You may also have your engine professionally steam cleaned.

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Run your AC in winter:To keep your car’s air-conditioning system fit for the next warm season, run it a few times throughout the winter. This will prevent moving parts in the compressor from seizing. Also, circulating the refrigerant will help keep the seals soft and pliant.

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Maintain your car’s battery:Maybe the manufacturer says your battery is maintenancefree, but don’t you believe it! Check your battery regularly to extend its life and avoid the hassle of being stranded with a dead battery.

Begin with the simple: keeping your battery clean. A dirty case can actually cause current to drain. Wipe with a damp rag. Use a mild detergent if necessary.
Next, clean the battery posts or terminals. Loosen and remove the negative cable (black or minus sign) first, then the red positive cable. Use a brass wire battery brush dipped in a paste made from a few tablespoons of baking soda and a little water.
Inspect the battery case for damage, such as cracks or bulges — signs that a battery needs to be replaced.
Reinstall the cables, positive first, and coat the terminals and clamps with a thin coating of grease to prevent new corrosion.

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Some batteries need water:If your battery has vent caps, remove them to check the level of the electrolyte. It should rise 1/2 inch (13 mm) above the battery’s top plates. If it doesn’t, use distilled water to raise the level to 1/4 or 3/8 inch (6 or 10 mm) below the bottom of the vent cap. Don’t use tap water, as it may contain minerals that can damage your battery. Mechanics should check your battery as a part of your regularly scheduled maintenance, but they often skip the procedure. Be sure to ask to have it done.


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Be kind to your battery:If you inadvertently leave your lights on and drain your battery, take the following precautions to prevent damage to the battery and the starter when jump-starting your car:

Don’t risk causing the battery to explode. With both cars off, connect a positive cable end to the positive battery terminal of the dead battery.
Connect the other positive cable end to the positive terminal of the source battery.
Connect a negative cable end to the negative terminal of the source battery.
Attach the remaining negative cable to unpainted metal on the car engine (as far from the dead battery as possible).
Wait a few minutes and try to start the disabled car. If it doesn’t start, start the source car and then try starting the dead one again.
When the car starts, be careful to disconnect the cables in the reverse order.
If the car still doesn’t start, don’t keep trying to charge it or you are liable to damage the starter. Bring the battery to an automotive shop to see if it can be recharged.
Even if you’re successful, ensure a full recharge by hooking up the battery to a charger overnight or by driving the car for 5 or 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

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Seal a leaky radiator:Save the high expense of a new radiator by trying to seal a leak with a radiator sealer, such as Alumaseal from Gold Eagle Co. Available in powder or liquid form, the product circulates in the radiator until it gets to the hole, where it sets up and fills the hole upon contact with the air. Alumaseal may be used to stop heater core leaks as well.

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Dilute your coolant:Your cooling system needs both coolant-antifreeze and water, so don’t pour undiluted coolant into your cooling system. Dilute it with water to the commonly recommended 50-50 ratio. Similarly, don’t use straight water in your system either.The coolant protects against corrosion and freezing.The water ensures good heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator.

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Keep your cool:Check the coolant-antifreeze level weekly that shows on the translucent coolant-antifreeze overflow tank. If low, fill to the maximum fill mark on the tank with a 50-50 solution of coolant-antifreeze and water. Some coolant manufacturers now sell premixed coolant and water for the motorist who wants a quick and easy way to top off.


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Don’t forget to flush:Coolant-antifreeze eventually degrades and becomes contaminated. Flush it from your cooling system as recommended in your manual (typically every two years; every five years for newer coolants). Failing to do so can damage your radiator, clog your heater core, and cause the thermostat and water pump to fail.


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Don’t mix coolants:Avoid mixing coolants that are different in color. If your coolant is pink, don’t add a green formulation to it. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a thick solution that won’t do its job. Use only the coolant specified in your owner’s manual.


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Check power-steering fluid:Check the power-steering fluid once a month with the car warmed up. If the level is low, have the hoses and pump inspected for leaks. In addition to making your car difficult to steer, low power-steering fluid will damage the power-steering pump. Be sure to use the powersteering fluid recommended for you car


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Tyre care is essential for maintaining vehicle safety:Tyres should be checked on a regular basis and before any long driving trips. Correctly maintained tyres will improve fuel economy, extend tyre life and improve vehicle safety.

Tyre inflation should be checked every two weeks when cold, recommended pressure can be found in the owner's manual.
Abnormal wear patterns indicate possible wheel alignment or suspension problems.
Vibrations in the steering indicate the tyres may require balancing.
Make sure that tyres have a minimum of 1.6mm of tread depth.

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Your vehicle's cooling system is vital to the operation of your vehicle:Driving at freeway speeds and hot summer days put a lot of stress on your vehicle's cooling system. Basic checks can assist in maintaining your vehicle's cooling system.

1.Only inspect your cooling system when the engine is cold. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.
2.Check coolant level regularly.
3.Only use the recommended coolant for your vehicle, this can be found in the owner's manual.
4.If your cooling system requires regular refilling there may be a leak in the system.

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Brakes are a vital component of your vehicle:Poor brake performance and condition can result in substantially longer braking distances potentially placing you and your passengers in danger.

1.Squealing brakes, grinding on your rotors or unusual vibrations may indicate your brakes need replacing.
2.Another sign of worn brakes is poor brake performance.
3.Ensure that your vehicle's brake fluid is full.
4.Always use the recommended brake fluid for you vehicle, this can be found in your owner's manual.

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Most transmission work is best left to the experts:however the following tips will help ensure your transmission operates correctly.

1.Ensure that the transmission fluid level remains filled to the correct level, check owner's manual for details on checking levels.
2.Ensure fluid is not discoloured or burnt.
3.Always use the correct type of oil for your car, this can be found by referring to your owner's manual.


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The battery is the key component of your car's electrical system:and the main cause of vehicle breakdowns. A number of simple steps can be taken to ensure your battery is kept in optimum condition all year round.

1.Check battery terminals regularly to ensure they are clean and tight.
2.Ensure that the electrolyte level is correct, if topping up only use distilled water. Many newer batteries are maintenance free and won't require topping up.
3.Make sure the battery is secure.
4.If your battery has not been replaced in 3 – 4 years consider a replacement as battery failures often occur with no warning.


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Power steering fluid should be checked regularly to ensure it is filled to capacity:The fluid can be checked via the reservoir. For the specific location relating to your vehicle please check your owner's manual.
Only use the recommended oil for your car, this information can be found in your owner's manual.
Never over fill the reservoir.
If the power steering fluid needs regular refilling contact your nearest RAC Auto Services site for advice.


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Lights are critical for vehicle safety:Electrical components including horns and window demisters need to be checked as well to ensure correct operation on a regular basis.

1.Check you lights regularly to ensure they work correctly.
2.Only use the recommended globes, this information can be found in your owner's manual.
3.Check other electrical components i.e. horns, window demisters regularly to ensure correct operation.


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Change the oil regularly:This will improve your gas mileage and protect your engine. The recommended mileage between oil changes is 3,000 - 5,000 miles (or 5000 - 8000 kilometres) or every 3 to 6 months. Doing this could make it possible for your vehicle to attain 200,000 miles. Change the oil filter as well - there is no sense in putting clean oil through a dirty filter, and filters are very cheap and available at any parts store. Please check your service manual, or contact your dealer for your car's specific needs.


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Change the air filter:This is something you can do easily at home without using tools, and should be done approximately every 12 thousand miles. You can buy a matching filter at nearly any auto parts store and your owner's manual will show you where your air filter is located. A dirty, dusty filter can lower gas mileage.

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Monitor your brake pad thickness and don't let the pads wear down to metal:this will cause damage to your brake rotors ("discs" at least and possibly your calipers as well. Rotors and calipers are much more expensive to replace than pads. There is no such thing as "cleaning" a brake pad while it is still on a car - the friction between the pad and rotor will eradicate any outside substance almost immediately.


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