mank1234:
For grid-tie solar inverter, if someone decides to use it without battery, will it still work when there's no power from the grid?

It will not unless you also have a Battery inverter like Victron or sunny island to support it with the simulated grid .
It is quite complicated, costly and potentially dangerous so best to be avoided for first time setup

known industrial combinations which are slightly easier to set up and available in Nigeria

SMA sunny island, and Sunny Boy
Victron Multi/Quattro and Fronius

Magnum and APssystms ( also branded by Magnum for their own use)

The HA02 literature clearly states 'wiring sequence' whether series or parallel does not matter.

In your scenario just connect each pair of wires to each battery in your bank and you will be fine - I prefer the HA02 with four pairs of wires over the HA01 because it can move more current between batteries per unit of time.

Apart from what the manual says, I can also add practical experience that I have used it in just such a way on two occasions now and it has been working with no issues and mind you I have meters with resolutions down to DC MilliAmps to verify correct operation.

The big NO NO is that you must never bridge any of the contacts of the HA02 with another one hence they ship with each wire terminal ring sheathed in a plastic tube for insulation.

On a lighter note, NL folks are ordering the thing on Amazon like crazy and making it go out of stock always. Abeg stop am!!!

earthrealm:
The literature on the ha2 48v batt balancer is a lil vague..i have 4 units 12v 200ah fla in a 24v config...i intend to hook up the legs of ha2 to each batt in the bank..
Just a lil unsure if it wud work..since its written 48v.
I have the ha1. But the literature states its for 2 x 12v batts

Yes the Canadian Solar panels are firing better indeed. The Flames are not doing bad at all either for a Tier 2 panel with 2 years on the roof.

The reason why the Canadian Solar makes sense for me now is because I was able to get them at a super bargain price from Gennex Tech.... else if they came at a premium like sellers on here advertise for Solar World and Canadian Solar then the extra performance would have already been priced and even over priced into the purchase price hence would not have made financial sense.

That said the Gennex Canadian Solar have impressed me so much that I want to get 1kw more to add to my array - although I don't need it now, adding 3 more 330w panels will complete all my present and possible future needs as I move from 6.6kw to 7.6kw PV array

I am struggling hard to resist the temptation and Zeestone has preached endlessly to me to not go ahead but I fear I will succumb to the temptation soon ...

I have all your suggestions already in place for the MorningStars except for the separate voltage sense cables. From what I remember MorningStar said it was okay to parallel the voltage sense cables but I will give separate cables a chance again and revert with the outcome.

mank1234:
The Canadian seems to give more juice per installed wattage than the flame especially considering that power deliverable should be more during MPPT stage than ABSORB stage.

Try the following if it will sync their operations:
1) change your dip switches to custom set point (switch 4,5,6 ON) and ensure you use exactly the same settings for both cc. Note that if you don't change the dip switches to custom settings whatsoever you program as charging algorithm is usually ignored.
2) use separate sense voltage wire of same length, same gauge. (MS recommendation)
3) use separate temperature sense wire. (MS recommendation)
4) if you intend to do equalization, then it should be manual equalization and you should use meter hub to sync it. Equalization should be initiated from the meter and NOT from one of the CC. (MS recommendation)

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Congratulations Sir and welcome to the club.

With the MorningStar, you will now see clearly that 'charge controller pass charge controller'.

Please come back and give the house your reviews soon and if perchance you have any questions about any aspects e.g. custom programming, please do not hesitate to ask.

I am assuming you will want to monitor your system performance at some point? Instead of buying that TS-M-2 or remote meter with their sickly yellow screen - just get yourself an RJ45 crossover aka network cable and connect directly to your PC - the cable costs under $10 and is also commonly available in Lagos (Computer Village).

Via PC you get access to convenient live monitoring as well as data logs with many parameters of interest conveniently on display.

Thanks for this Niyi. While trying to get m monitoring software to read this data, i discovered there's an API over the network cable that can give me much more info . Documentation is here: http://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/TSMPPT.APP_.Modbus.EN_.10.2.pdf

The api (for the programmers here) can be called via a regular web request to http://tsmppt<your serial>/MBCSV.cgi?ID=1&F=4&AHI=0&ALO=0&RHI=0&RLO=80

mank1234:
What's the total solar panel wattage connected to this charge controller?

Currently 1.8KW but I'm adding another 900W when I sort out where to put them

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Yes the Canadian Solar panels are firing better indeed. The Flames are not doing bad at all either for a Tier 2 panel with 2 years on the roof.

The reason why the Canadian Solar makes sense for me now is because I was able to get them at a super bargain price from Gennex Tech.... else if they came at a premium like sellers on here advertise for Solar World and Canadian Solar then the extra performance would have already been priced and even over priced into the purchase price hence would not have made financial sense.

That said the Gennex Canadian Solar have impressed me so much that I want to get 1kw more to add to my array - although I don't need it now, adding 3 more 330w panels will complete all my present and possible future needs as I move from 6.6kw to 7.6kw PV array

I am struggling hard to resist the temptation and Zeestone has preached endlessly to me to not go ahead but I fear I will succumb to the temptation soon ...

I have all your suggestions already in place for the MorningStars except for the separate voltage sense cables. From what I remember MorningStar said it was okay to parallel the voltage sense cables but I will give separate cables a chance again and revert with the outcome.

That's my company you know?
When you mentioned Canada, I waited to read the Name of Company and I'm happy you mentioned Gennex.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Two separate PV arrays on two separate MorningStar MPPT 60 CCs
1st PV Array - 3.6kw of Flames 300w Mono Panels - 12pcs about 2 years old
2nd PV Array - 2.97kw of Canadian Solar 330w Mono Panels - 9pcs under 6 months old.

@NiyiOmoIyunade

Hello,

How did you connect your pv arrays? Is it 2 in series or 3 in series before the parallel connection? Also, whats the cumulative/expected PV Volt/Amp that is feeding your charge Controllers?

Thanks.

I run a 48v nominal battery system. So my panels are connected 3 in series.

babaegun:


@NiyiOmoIyunade

Hello,

How did you connect your pv arrays? Is it 2 in series or 3 in series before the parallel connection? Also, whats the cumulative/expected PV Volt/Amp that is feeding your charge Controllers?

Thanks.

Yes boss!

davodyguy:


That's my company you know?
When you mentioned Canada, I waited to read the Name of Company and I'm happy you mentioned Gennex.

Hello my people. (NiyiOmoIyunade)

I got the attached 125amps CB.

I'm wondering where I should put it.

1. Between Panels and CC or
2. Between CC and 2*200Ah batteries?

Panels are 270 watts *3 plus 250 watts= 1060 watts
CC= 40A E-Smart

Regards

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I run a 48v nominal battery system. So my panels are connected 3 in series.

330W * 3 in series? Is it not too close to the CC limit of 150V?
What's the panel's Voc?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I run a 48v nominal battery system. So my panels are connected 3 in series.

With that, I suspect you have 135.9V & 35.04A as cumulative feeding your CC (for the 12 pv panels) right?

VmP 37.5v × 3 = 112.5v

VoC 45.9 × 3 = 137.7v

Bear in mind these two parameters are at 25°C STC temperatures and actual voltage will derate based on a known temperature coefficient for our ambient weather here in Lagos around 28°C to 35°C

Regardless, these are both within the tolerance for the MorningStar.

There is a derating algorithm designed into the MorningStar where if the VmP gets into the 125v range it throws a fault code 'High Array Voltage Current Limiting' and throttles back on things to keep everything within tolerance.

See below nameplate of the Canadian Solar 330w as well as my max array voltage over several days.

mank1234:


330W * 3 in series? Is it not too close to the CC limit of 150V?
What's the panel's Voc?

mank1234:

330W * 3 in series? Is it not too close to the CC limit of 150V?
What's the panel's Voc?

No. As per voltage, he is fine.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
VmP 37.5v × 3 = 112.5v

VoC 45.9 × 3 = 137.7v

Bear in mind these two parameters are at 25°C STC temperatures and actual voltage will derate based on a known temperature coefficient for our ambient weather here in Lagos around 28°C to 35°C
Regardless, these are both within the tolerance for the MorningStar.
There is a derating algorithm designed into the[b] MorningStar[/b] where if the VmP gets into the 125v range it throws a fault code 'High Array Voltage Current Limiting' and throttles back on things to keep everything within tolerance.
See below nameplate of the Canadian Solar 330w as well as my max array voltage over several days.

I just love the Graphing functionality of the MorningStar. It is similar to Midnight Classic. Anytime I have the opportunity to change my CC, I will surely choose one of those marvelous CCs.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The HA02 literature clearly states

On a lighter note, NL folks are ordering the thing on Amazon like crazy and making it go out of stock always. Abeg stop am!!!

Yeah..saw it has risen to 72 usd on amazon..still 50 usd on aliexpress..i ordered sharply from aliexpress..22usd is worth the extra 2wks wait

Food u clarified..tot so too..but wanted to be sure..or someone with hands on experi3nce to comment..as mine is still on the north china sea

Oga Niyi

Thank you for your good work so far.

Am surprised the glorified Canadian solar panels are assembled in China also and may be under similar conditions as 2nd tier ones.
That really makes me question their huge price tags or am I missing something?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
VmP 37.5v × 3 = 112.5v

VoC 45.9 × 3 = 137.7v

Bear in mind these two parameters are at 25°C STC temperatures and actual voltage will derate based on a known temperature coefficient for our ambient weather here in Lagos around 28°C to 35°C

Regardless, these are both within the tolerance for the MorningStar.

There is a derating algorithm designed into the MorningStar where if the VmP gets into the 125v range it throws a fault code 'High Array Voltage Current Limiting' and throttles back on things to keep everything within tolerance.

See below nameplate of the Canadian Solar 330w as well as my max array voltage over several days.

efuro:
Oga Niyi

Thank you for your good work so far.

Am surprised the glorified Canadian solar panels are assembled in China also and may be under similar conditions as 2nd tier ones.
That really makes me question their huge price tags or am I missing something?

Yes, but to Canadian Specs, not to African specs.

China builds for UAE and USA as well, but the gradings are quite different.

Same with Gennex batteries too. I'm using them at home

With over 1 billion human beings in China, Labour is very cheap. Recall Trump says China should start manufacturing in the US, same with Toyota and other conglomerates.

nonoski:
Good day house

Outback Flex 80 FM80 MPPT 80 AMP Solar Charge Controller including OutBack Power RTS Remote Temperature Sensor
48 x 400AH battery bank (with ZHC battery equalizer)
3.5kva 48v Exulted Inverter (to be replaced with Must power 5kva)
I will doing all the connections myself, this weekend we will be removing interlocking stone to pass conduit pipes from the PV stand to the building and all other ancillary works.
Thank you

@Nonoski
Hi,
How was the upgrade/installation? Do share the good news with us here.

NDM1-125: is the model number of your mcb.
C100: is it's current/curve rating.
230v: is it's operating voltage.

In summary, it's a 100A mcb for use in single phase AC applications.

davodyguy:
Hello my people. (NiyiOmoIyunade)

I got the attached 125amps CB.

I'm wondering where I should put it.

1. Between Panels and CC or
2. Between CC and 2*200Ah batteries?

Panels are 270 watts *3 plus 250 watts= 1060 watts
CC= 40A E-Smart

Regards

.

Barezzi:
NDM1-125: is the model number of your mcb.
C100: is it's current rating.
230v: is it's operating voltage.

In summary, it's a 100A mcb for use in AC applications.

Thanks

so its between CC and Panels?

No, there's only DC between PV array and CC.
You can install it between your inverter and DB, provided it's single phase.

davodyguy:

Thanks

so its between CC and Panels?

Barezzi:
No, there's only DC between PV array and CC.
You can install it between your inverter and DB, provided it's single phase.

What I intend getting is a breaker to protect my CC from thunder or Surge.

With you're implying, this can't do it

davodyguy:


What I intend getting is a breaker to protect my CC from thunder or Surge.

With you're implying, this can't do it

Please do not use AC breaker in DC applications their designs are different. AN AC breaker uses the zero crossing of AC to extinguish arc while interrupting a current. For DC breaker it used electromagnets. using AC breaker in DC applications is a fire hazard

the following video is very instructive


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cup5fMGaE2g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0diAeysxVo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csMQ9A-4Pws



There are many suppliers here on Nairaland. You can ask for 50 Amp or 63 AMP DC breaker (nonpolarized preferred for beginners)

No boss.

Ogas Barezzi and Pranil have said it all. You cannot use an MCB to protect equipment - they exist to protect your wiring from overcurrent situations that could cause the wires to run hot, melt the insulation and cause a fire. They also reinforced that this particular MCB you had in the picture is not even DC rated hence unsuitable for use anywhere between your panels and batteries.

To protect from lightening do the following.

1) Install an external earthing/grounding point in your premises - connect the earth/ground side of all your AC equipment, earth/ground point (terminal or chassis) of CC and panels and negative post of batteries or battery bus bar (if paranoid) to this common building earth/ground point.

2) Install a lightening arrestor on your roof and connect this also to the common external ground/earth point for your premises

3) Optionally, Install a surge arrestor e.g the Midnite MNSPD 300 to further protect AC and DC components. Midnite has different ones for each application.

The common earth point in your premises will provide a safe path for all surge currents to be diverted to the ground.

The lightening arrestor on your roof represents an 'attractive spot' for lightening to hit and from there be diverted safely to ground.

NEC code is to have only one external earth/ground point per premises to prevent surge current arcing between earth/ground points and electrocuting people in between the current flow path.

davodyguy:


What I intend getting is a breaker to protect my CC from thunder or Surge.

With you're implying, this can't do it

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No boss.

Ogas Barezzi and Pranil have said it all. You cannot use an MCB to protect equipment - they exist to protect your wiring from overcurrent situations that could cause the wires to run hot, melt the insulation and cause a fire. They also reinforced that this particular MCB you had in the picture is not even DC rated hence unsuitable for use anywhere between your panels and batteries.

To protect from lightening do the following.

1) Install an external earthing/grounding point in your premises - connect the earth/ground side of all your AC equipment, earth/ground point (terminal or chassis) of CC and panels and negative post of batteries or battery bus bar (if paranoid) to this common building earth/ground point.

2) Install a lightening arrestor on your roof and connect this also to the common external ground/earth point for your premises

3) Optionally, Install a surge arrestor e.g the Midnite MNSPD 300 to further protect AC and DC components. Midnite has different ones for each application.

The common earth point in your premises will provide a safe path for all surge currents to be diverted to the ground.

The lightening arrestor on your roof represents an 'attractive spot' for lightening to hit and from there be diverted safely to ground.

NEC code is to have only one external earth/ground point per premises to prevent surge current arcing between earth/ground points and electrocuting people in between the current flow path.

Thanks. Yoruba people say 'Aa bere ona, kii sina'

If you ask for the way, you can't miss your way

pranil:


Please do not use AC breaker in DC applications their designs are different. AN AC breaker uses the zero crossing of AC to extinguish arc while interrupting a current. For DC breaker it used electromagnets. using AC breaker in DC applications is a fire hazard

the following video is very instructive


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cup5fMGaE2g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0diAeysxVo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csMQ9A-4Pws



There are many suppliers here on Nairaland. You can ask for 50 Amp or 63 AMP DC breaker (nonpolarized preferred for beginners)

Thanks. Would do as advised

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No boss.

Ogas Barezzi and Pranil have said it all. You cannot use an MCB to protect equipment - they exist to protect your wiring from overcurrent situations that could cause the wires to run hot, melt the insulation and cause a fire. They also reinforced that this particular MCB you had in the picture is not even DC rated hence unsuitable for use anywhere between your panels and batteries.

To protect from lightening do the following.

1) Install an external earthing/grounding point in your premises - connect the earth/ground side of all your AC equipment, earth/ground point (terminal or chassis) of CC and panels and negative post of batteries or battery bus bar (if paranoid) to this common building earth/ground point.

2) Install a lightening arrestor on your roof and connect this also to the common external ground/earth point for your premises

3) Optionally, Install a surge arrestor e.g the Midnite MNSPD 300 to further protect AC and DC components. Midnite has different ones for each application.

The common earth point in your premises will provide a safe path for all surge currents to be diverted to the ground.

The lightening arrestor on your roof represents an 'attractive spot' for lightening to hit and from there be diverted safely to ground.

NEC code is to have only one external earth/ground point per premises to prevent surge current arcing between earth/ground points and electrocuting people in between the current flow path.

If proper grounding/earthing is in place, there should be no need for MNSPD right?

Well ...... there should not .....

But I think if you are paranoid, or want to go overboard with your protections....

Please let me defer to core power experts like Oga Pranil to talk about this one please - whether or not one still needs an SPD given sufficient earthing/grounding in place.

Jamzig1:

If proper grounding/earthing is in place, there should be no need for MNSPD right?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Well ...... there should not .....

But I think if you are paranoid, or want to go overboard with your protections....

Please let me defer to core power experts like Oga Pranil to talk about this one please - whether or not one still needs an SPD given sufficient earthing/grounding in place.

Is it General?

No no sunshine in my area since Wednesday. What's going on?

Very little sunshine here too. I was waiting to boast of the stats generated by my morningstar
Anyway, the only thing i can say for now is that the MPPT sweep is very very fast - like once a minute, you wont even notice it. No more starting from zero like the Fangpusun 150/70.