Trippledots:
Hi guys, compliments of the season.

Someone wants to do a 20kva completely offgrid system. So I am looking for suggestion on inverters of that capacity with charge current settings etc... Premium brands like victron will be appreciated. Other rugged brands even if not so premium are welcome.

Ehen, pls add price estimate if possible.

Danke.

Considering the warranty on Deye and it's features, it strikes me as premium so you may look into that

Trippledots:
Hi guys, compliments of the season.

Someone wants to do a 20kva completely offgrid system. So I am looking for suggestion on inverters of that capacity with charge current settings etc... Premium brands like victron will be appreciated. Other rugged brands even if not so premium are welcome.

Ehen, pls add price estimate if possible.

Danke.

With what i know now,
For such setups, i would go for hybrids and parallel them.
4 units of 5.5kw Deye/sorotec/phocos inverters paralleled would get the job done nicely and efficiently.

Note a 5.5kw sorotec can handle 5000watts panel, at 450v 6s2p strings of 350watts panel per inverter

earthrealm:


With what i know now,
For such setups, i would go for hybrids and parallel them.
4 units of 5.5kw Deye[b]/sorotec/phocos[/b] inverters paralleled would get the job done nicely and efficiently.

Note a 5.5kw sorotec can handle 5000watts panel, at 450v 6s2p strings of 350watts panel per inverter

If the highlighted make the list then I think MPP should make it as well.

ojeysky:


If the highlighted make the list then I think MPP should make it as well.

earthrealm:


With what i know now,
For such setups, i would go for hybrids and parallel them.
4 units of 5.5kw Deye/sorotec/phocos inverters paralleled would get the job done nicely and efficiently.

Note a 5.5kw sorotec can handle 5000watts panel, at 450v 6s2p strings of 350watts panel per inverter

ojeysky:


Considering the warranty on Deye and it's features, it strikes me as premium so you may look into that

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help.

ojeysky:


If the highlighted make the list then I think MPP should make it as well.

This unfaithful man, that has jilted his first love MPP, for a slay mama Deye.. .

Me am sticking to Sorotec for a long long time.
The people serious for biz abegi

Sorotec has rudimentary inbuilt AI, that tells you whats wrong, in the event of a fault.
5.5kw 48v is below 400k, and standard waranty

User exceed panel Voc, and instead of damaging the cc section of the inverter. The inverter throttled down harvest to protect itself and spat out an error message to warn user as well.

And a one of its kind touchscreen interface, infinite data logging and wifi capability

earthrealm:


This unfaithful man, that has jilted his first love MPP, for a slay mama Deye.. .

Me am sticking to Sorotec for a long long time.
The people serious for biz abegi

Sorotec has rudimentary inbuilt AI, that tells you whats wrong, in the event of a fault.
5.5kw 48v is below 400k, and standard waranty

User exceed panel Voc, and instead of damaging the cc section of the inverter. The inverter throttled down harvest to protect itself and spat out an error message to warn user as well.

And a one of its kind touchscreen interface, infinite data logging and wifi capability

It was quite a difficult decision my brother, I still love my MPP and I will really miss it when I eventually transition

ojeysky:


Each cell is 280Ah and I have 16 of them

That's some large storage right there.

essegis:
They say when it rains it pours.

Na inside this wahala sun decide to carry him busy body shift base oo. It now casts a house shadow over my panels. When I did the design for panel placement I took time & did the study properly hence my surprise when I noticed shadow yesterday. This has caused the system not to float for over a week now. Even on days the inverter is not used it still doesn't float.

You're not alone in this "sun changing base" conundrum . My 24v/220ah LFP rarely charges above 26.5v everyday this time around. Plus the roof orientation is of little help as it faces North, I think. Dust covering on the panels has also severely impacted insolation. Cleaning isn't an option except I outsource it to those who can climb the roof. Although I believe adding two more 330w (660w) to the installed capacity of 1320w may bring battery close to float each day, sufficient enough to still keep the battery at above 25v at the break of each morning when it runs overnight.

My solace however is in the fact that with LFP, I can afford to go each day without reaching float voltage unlike lead acid users, hence I am less agitated. All I just ensure is that battery does not go less than 24.8v everyday.

essegis:

Well, presently there is no immediate plan to get around this conundrum oo. Question is just why we make our own lives deliberately difficult in this country. No be everything be government cos this is a private business that could have just come up with a very simple system of activation instead of this suffering for their customers. Heard every one who collected meters around the time I did have the same problem.

The government is highly unserious. People are seriously moving away from the mainstream public utility to AE, no matter how little the capacity is. Just lighting and charging phones is sufficient for even some highly placed/classed individuals while large capacity setups are also options for those who can afford it.

And since you said that the problem is peculiar to a larger number of people, I want to believe that the solution will be sought soon.

Sorry. Also extend our solidarity to madam who has spent a lot calling those incompetent people.

ojesymsym:
Is it just me or has anyone experienced that these inverter fridges block fast

True. The compressor ramps up fast and quickly freezes things. I guess that's one benefit of having variable speed thingy driving the central core of the inverter compressor. The upside of it, that is. But the downside I have noticed with this is in a situation where the freezer is opened too often or when loaded full with fresh items. This is my own case. The 309L inverter freezer (nameplate 115 watts) is in a shop and so it always runs at 180 - 190 watts constantly as against the 105 watts I recorded when I test ran it few days after purchase before it was fully commissioned for use. At times it even goes to a crazy 203 watts.

According to the instruction manuals of the regular freezers, I think some duration of pre-freezing is usually adviced before packing it full of items. The inverter freezer apparently bypasses this by ramping up the working of its compressor to handle the item capacity.

I strongly believe that if it's a non-inverter 309L (nameplate 145 watts), it will constantly stay at that 145 watts irrespective of the frequent opening and closing, although prolonged frosting time will be the result of that.

The non-inverter 203L (nameplate 115w) runs at a constant 102w, although with less than 10 opening and closure daily and boy, it is always thick frosted to the sides and the edges.

With this, I will advice that anyone on solar power and planning on getting freezer for shops which will require frequent openings on daily basis should probably avoid inverter freezers, but rather go for the constant wattage non-inverter counterparts except of course the installed solar and storage capacity can handle/supply the increased power demand.

and lost their frost also very quickly once they are not powered.

I have not noticed this. But if you open the freezer too often, it will definitely defrost early.

Any good freezer recommendation that is able to retain ice long after power outage?

Both thermocool freezers I mentioned earlier advertise 100 hours post power outage, from personal experience they live up to it.

earthrealm:


IS IT JUST ME, OR is someone else noticing something..............

God bless you.

Right from the second post, I don dey wonder. Say maybe Ojeysky just chop belleful the pounded yam wey madam prepare, so his antennas are not up yet

From an energy efficiency and conversation of coldness, bwtween Scanfrost and Thermocool which would you rate the highest? Also, I tend to hear of more people repairing their thermocool than Scanfrost.

ceaser:


Both thermocool freezers I mentioned earlier advertise 100 hours post power outage, from personal experience they live up to it.

dollarnaira:
Help pls!
I v 18 pscs of lithium batteries(18650) that I extracted from laptops batteries.
Performed a small DIY small project yesterday.
I combined 3×3.7v = 11.1v and charged with 12.4v at 2amp or less lithium charger that I varied. Though it charges full according to the charger's display. No heat whatsoever during charge to full stage.

Now i discovered that the rest were 3.6v each.

18650s max out at 4.2v each. Better to keep it at 4.15v when full.

3.6×3= 10.8v ----- can I charge at 12.4v?
3.6×6= 21.6v ----- can i charge little above 24v?
3.6×7= 25.2v ----- can I charge above 24v?

Can I DIY lithium ion guru help?

3.6×3= 10.8v ----- can I charge at 12.4v? - yes, even at 12.6v
3.6×6= 21.6v ----- can i charge little above 24v? - at 26v
3.6×7= 25.2v ----- can I charge above 24v? - 7s 18650 at 29v charging voltage ideal

My responses assume that you have a BMS installed in which case the batteries are protected from overvoltage or overdischarge which may lead to early failure.

But if not and you just want to get by with a few cells, then ensure that the charging voltage is the addition of the individual cells in a series, that is 3s will be 4.15 in three places (12.54v) etc

It's usually fun to DIY lithium but abeg inculcate the habit of using BMSes - 18650s without BMS is a serious fire risk while LFP without BMS pose more of early failure risk and then maybe fire, in that order.

ojesymsym:
From an energy efficiency and conversation of coldness, bwtween Scanfrost and Thermocool which would you rate the highest? Also, I tend to hear of more people repairing their thermocool than Scanfrost.

Well, I have had no experience whatsoever with scanfrost freezer or any of their products for that matter. But I'm on the third thermocool freezer. The first 219L was 12 years ago and demanded first kazeem tinkering 10 years after faithful service. It still freezes alright but I had to dump it when post-kazeem tinkering ramped up the wattage from 130 watts to 250 watts.

The second is the 203L non-inverter acquired over a year ago. The third is the 319L inverter acquired about 4 months ago. They both still live up to expectation. Freeze quite good and retain frost for the claimed 100hrs from the very few occasions (not anytime recent) I had to leave them off power for such duration.

I want to strongly believe that if you have constant, non-surge voltages like the inverter produces, gadgets including HVAC gadgets should last longer than if they are exposed directly to our epileptic BEDC power supply. So if thermocool with their good reputation gets exposed to such insult, it may fail earlier than scanfrost, and vice versa.

As per your observation of peeps repairing thermoccol more than scanfrost, I'll assume it's probably because more people use thermocool than scanfrost.

But apparently you've have a fairly impressive experience with scanfrost, then you may go with it.

ceaser:


Well, I have had no experience whatsoever with scanfrost freezer or any of their products for that matter. But I'm on the third thermocool freezer. The first 219L was 12 years ago and demanded first kazeem tinkering 10 years after faithful service. It still freezes alright but I had to dump it when post-kazeem tinkering ramped up the wattage from 130 watts to 250 watts.

The second is the 203L non-inverter acquired over a year ago. The third is the 319L inverter acquired about 4 months ago. They both still live up to expectation. Freeze quite good and retain frost for the claimed 100hrs from the very few occasions (not anytime recent) I had to leave them off power for such duration.

I want to strongly believe that if you have constant, non-surge voltages like the inverter produces, gadgets including HVAC gadgets should last longer than if they are exposed directly to our epileptic BEDC power supply. So if thermocool with their good reputation gets exposed to such insult, it may fail earlier than scanfrost, and vice versa.

As per your observation of peeps repairing thermoccol more than scanfrost, I'll assume it's probably because more people use thermocool than scanfrost.

But apparently you've have a fairly impressive experience with scanfrost, then you may go with it.

Very correct

ceaser:


Well, I have had no experience whatsoever with scanfrost freezer or any of their products for that matter. But I'm on the third thermocool freezer. The first 219L was 12 years ago and demanded first kazeem tinkering 10 years after faithful service. It still freezes alright but I had to dump it when post-kazeem tinkering ramped up the wattage from 130 watts to 250 watts.

The second is the 203L non-inverter acquired over a year ago. The third is the 319L inverter acquired about 4 months ago. They both still live up to expectation. Freeze quite good and retain frost for the claimed 100hrs from the very few occasions (not anytime recent) I had to leave them off power for such duration.

I want to strongly believe that if you have constant, non-surge voltages like the inverter produces, gadgets including HVAC gadgets should last longer than if they are exposed directly to our epileptic BEDC power supply. So if thermocool with their good reputation gets exposed to such insult, it may fail earlier than scanfrost, and vice versa.

As per your observation of peeps repairing thermoccol more than scanfrost, I'll assume it's probably because more people use thermocool than scanfrost.

But apparently you've have a fairly impressive experience with scanfrost, then you may go with it.

Seems the gas refills have a lot to do with the increased "power hunger".

Saipro:

Seems the gas refills have a lot to do with the increased "power hunger".

Like the gas used does not have the same ideal thermal properties as the one originally used.

Plus sometimes they re-pipe the freezer with this copper tubes after removing the ones that come with it.

ceaser:


18650s max out at 4.2v each. Better to keep it at 4.15v when full.



3.6×3= 10.8v ----- can I charge at 12.4v? - yes, even at 12.6v
3.6×6= 21.6v ----- can i charge little above 24v? - at 26v
3.6×7= 25.2v ----- can I charge above 24v? - 7s 18650 at 29v charging voltage ideal

My responses assume that you have a BMS installed in which case the batteries are protected from overvoltage or overdischarge which may lead to early failure.

But if not and you just want to get by with a few cells, then ensure that the charging voltage is the addition of the individual cells in a series, that is 3s will be 4.15 in three places (12.54v) etc

It's usually fun to DIY lithium but abeg inculcate the habit of using BMSes - 18650s without BMS is a serious fire risk while LFP without BMS pose more of early failure risk and then maybe fire, in that order.

Sincere appreciation for ur response.
I charged with a lithium charger
No bms installations.
You v increased my knowledge tonight. Though still confused at DOD for d 10.8v i.e 3s(2.3amp)+ 3s(2.3amp) in parallel to give 4.6amp at 10.8v
Thanks.

earthrealm:


This unfaithful man, that has jilted his first love MPP, for a slay mama Deye.. .

Me am sticking to Sorotec for a long long time.
The people serious for biz abegi

Sorotec has rudimentary inbuilt AI, that tells you whats wrong, in the event of a fault.
5.5kw 48v is below 400k, and standard waranty

User exceed panel Voc, and instead of damaging the cc section of the inverter. The inverter throttled down harvest to protect itself and spat out an error message to warn user as well.

And a one of its kind touchscreen interface, infinite data logging and wifi capability

Anybody offering this Sorotec on the platform?

ceaser:


Well, I have had no experience whatsoever with scanfrost freezer or any of their products for that matter. But I'm on the third thermocool freezer. The first 219L was 12 years ago and demanded first kazeem tinkering 10 years after faithful service. It still freezes alright but I had to dump it when post-kazeem tinkering ramped up the wattage from 130 watts to 250 watts.

The second is the 203L non-inverter acquired over a year ago. The third is the 319L inverter acquired about 4 months ago. They both still live up to expectation. Freeze quite good and retain frost for the claimed 100hrs from the very few occasions (not anytime recent) I had to leave them off power for such duration.

I want to strongly believe that if you have constant, non-surge voltages like the inverter produces, gadgets including HVAC gadgets should last longer than if they are exposed directly to our epileptic BEDC power supply. So if thermocool with their good reputation gets exposed to such insult, it may fail earlier than scanfrost, and vice versa.

As per your observation of peeps repairing thermoccol more than scanfrost, I'll assume it's probably because more people use thermocool than scanfrost.

But apparently you've have a fairly impressive experience with scanfrost, then you may go with it.

Personal experience, I bought the 319L for madam last year & while the first few months were rosy with I can guarantee you about 2inches of frost formed on all sides of the freezer the following months have not been fun at all.

Problem started with frequent cutting of the freezer. It cuts and cannot be reset until Thermocool is called. Apparently its a feature to help save the compressor from erratic current, either NEPA or gen. But when it cuts you won't know until all your items in it have already finished defrosting. They came twice to 3 times to fix that until they said it shouldn't be happening that often so they took it off to their office. All this na with that standard AVR on it oo so no one knows where its seeing its own from.

When they brought it back it was like from frying pan to fire. Compressor cuts and restart too frequently not allowing freezer to efficiently cool. As if that was the end of it when it wants to cut it does it with elongated noise and vibration like something Kazeem had fingered. This particular purchase is a disappointment as we don use Thermocool before like you for years unending. I had to dash it out sef cos of moving to the new house and wanted to change equipment.

Warranty expires May next year and madam has called them to come and carry their property. If they can't give her a new one make them keep, we no want again. And like @ojesymsym rightly pointed out experts are screaming why we bought Thermocool. That the repairs are too much for their modern batches and a lot of people are dumping them to move on. That is our next line of thought now.

ceaser:


True. The compressor ramps up fast and quickly freezes things. I guess that's one benefit of having variable speed thingy driving the central core of the inverter compressor. The upside of it, that is. But the downside I have noticed with this is in a situation where the freezer is opened too often or when loaded full with fresh items. This is my own case. The 309L inverter freezer (nameplate 115 watts) is in a shop and so it always runs at 180 - 190 watts constantly as against the 105 watts I recorded when I test ran it few days after purchase before it was fully commissioned for use. At times it even goes to a crazy 203 watts.

According to the instruction manuals of the regular freezers, I think some duration of pre-freezing is usually adviced before packing it full of items. The inverter freezer apparently bypasses this by ramping up the working of its compressor to handle the item capacity.

I strongly believe that if it's a non-inverter 309L (nameplate 145 watts), it will constantly stay at that 145 watts irrespective of the frequent opening and closing, although prolonged frosting time will be the result of that.

The non-inverter 203L (nameplate 115w) runs at a constant 102w, although with less than 10 opening and closure daily and boy, it is always thick frosted to the sides and the edges.

With this, I will advice that anyone on solar power and planning on getting freezer for shops which will require frequent openings on daily basis should probably avoid inverter freezers, but rather go for the constant wattage non-inverter counterparts except of course the installed solar and storage capacity can handle/supply the increased power demand.



I have not noticed this. But if you open the freezer too often, it will definitely defrost early.



Both thermocool freezers I mentioned earlier advertise 100 hours post power outage, from personal experience they live up to it.

That's strange, mine doesn't behave as such, you may be right on the frequent opening as compressor will keep running but should not be at such a high power.

ojesymsym:
From an energy efficiency and conversation of coldness, bwtween Scanfrost and Thermocool which would you rate the highest? Also, I tend to hear of more people repairing their thermocool than Scanfrost.

Just like you will find more Toyota at workshops, it's not because they are bad it's because they are used by manner people. My experience with thermocool has been great, I don't have a personal experience with scanfrost unfortunately.

essegis:


Anybody offering this Sorotec on the platform?

Valto listed one unit for sale a while back.

I am out of stock, but expecting fresh limited stock on or b4 the end of first wk in January. 3.2kw and 5.5kw all 48v

earthrealm:


Valto listed one unit for sale a while back.

I am out of stock, but expecting fresh limited stock on or b4 the end of first wk in January. 3.2kw and 5.5kw all 48v

Kindly quote me when you do. Thanks.

dollarnaira:


Sincere appreciation for ur response.
I charged with a lithium charger
No bms installations.
You v increased my knowledge tonight. Though still confused at DOD for d 10.8v i.e 3s(2.3amp)+ 3s(2.3amp) in parallel to give 4.6amp at 10.8v
Thanks.

I assume @ bolded you mean 2.3ah (2300mah). For the whole pack of 3s2p total capacity should be 6600mah. At full charge of 4.15v per cell, you'll have 12.45v at 2300mah.

Allowable low voltage discharge level of 18650 is 2.7v per cell below which the cells can get irreversibly damaged. Usually a BMS ensures this does not happen and most BMSes usually cuts off voltage at 2.82v per cell. That is 8.46v for a 3s pack. But for longevity sake, I would suggest you don't discharge it below 9v (3v per cell).

Your batteries are salvaged, not new. So the capacity isn't likely the nameplate 2300mah. You may be looking at around 80 percent capacity left after those years of use. Look forward to a more conservative 1500mah capacity left per cell.

essegis:


Personal experience, I bought the 319L for madam last year & while the first few months were rosy with I can guarantee you about 2inches of frost formed on all sides of the freezer the following months have not been fun at all.

Problem started with frequent cutting of the freezer. It cuts and cannot be reset until Thermocool is called. Apparently its a feature to help save the compressor from erratic current, either NEPA or gen. But when it cuts you won't know until all your items in it have already finished defrosting. They came twice to 3 times to fix that until they said it shouldn't be happening that often so they took it off to their office. All this na with that standard AVR on it oo so no one knows where its seeing its own from.

When they brought it back it was like from frying pan to fire. Compressor cuts and restart too frequently not allowing freezer to efficiently cool. As if that was the end of it when it wants to cut it does it with elongated noise and vibration like something Kazeem had fingered. This particular purchase is a disappointment as we don use Thermocool before like you for years unending. I had to dash it out sef cos of moving to the new house and wanted to change equipment.

Probably cos it was on our public utility which is useless. Even AVRs may sometimes be unable to fully protect appliances, especially fragile ones, from damage from our public utility. Nonetheless that's a worrisome review for the fact that mine has only ran for about four months. I hope I'd be saved that horror.

ojeysky:


That's strange, mine doesn't behave as such, you may be right on the frequent opening as compressor will keep running but should not be at such a high power.

I believe the frequent opening and closure gives that undesirable phenomenon. It not only entails opening the lid, but when you get to remove chilled drinks and frozen items from it to sell and then replace with new (warm) ones several times in a day, one might not get to see that power saving thing.

Occasionally when left overnight, it shows around 166 watts by morning but before you know it opening and closure starts again. A careful observation shows that after about the fourth opening, the wattage increases from that 166w to 188w and then settles at 190w. It's almost always packed full with items that are constantly being removed and replaced. It's also used to sell ice blocks, so it freezes just fine with the exception of that high consumption.

Well, that abomination of a programming struck again.

Patronage in that shop subtly indicates requirement for another extra freezer, probably a bigger one. I will watch as things go with more/adequate panel addition to satiate the 24 v / 220 ah LFP. If the backup does well to accommodate another freezer addition, I will not go the route of inverter freezer for that site again.

Good afternoon, Everyone. What are the major causes of battery swell up? Thank you.

ojtech8291:
Good afternoon, Everyone. What are the major causes of battery swell up? Thank you.

Excessive charging/overcharging

Ceaser01:
Well, that abomination of a programming struck again.

Again? You and that Bot should not carry this beef into 2021 o

Find am something make e free you from this constant ban.

Now that I think of it, we tend to always only look at instantaneous power for cooling systems when what we should also consider is the KWH, that should give an idea of a measure of how frequently a compressor goes on and off, which invariably will suggest the fridge/ freezer's ability to retain cooling.

Ceaser01:
Patronage in that shop subtly indicates requirement for another extra freezer, probably a bigger one. I will watch as things go with more/adequate panel addition to satiate the 24 v / 220 ah LFP. If the backup does well to accommodate another freezer addition, I will not go the route of inverter freezer for that site again.

Ceaser01:
Well, that abomination of a programming struck again.

And I mailed the supermods as @ NiyiOmolyunade suggested. Apparently it worked.

Ban lifted and the hidden post restored.

eleojo23:


Again? You and that Bot should not carry this beef into 2021 o

Find am something make e free you from this constant ban.