Gone

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Kitchen exit door.

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.

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@Trust101
I am loving all your choices... those doors are nice.
What a nice wide giant Main door... and I love that door-in-door Kitchen door... Nice investment.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:
@Trust101
I am loving all your choices... those doors are nice.
What a nice wide giant Main door... and I love that door-in-door Kitchen door... Nice investment.

Hajji M.

Thanks.

Nice. How many plots of land is it?

tivta:
Nice. How many plots of land is it?

2 plots.

trust101:


Thanks.

oga Trust101, great one sir.. Call us for your window works, we offer affordable quotes and quality services. Tel:08153665659,08067079715. Thanks

adeekiti:
oga Trust101, great one sir.. Call us for your window works, we offer affordable quotes and quality services. Tel:08153665659,08067079715. Thanks

Okay.

trust101:
@Sprumbaba
Just go to homedepot or lowes buy the FLANGE and the toilet of your choice then give the pictures to your plumber he will know what and what is needed to be done to make it work.
I hope that answered your question and i hope it helps.

Was the pipe for the toilet laid during German floor or was the floor broken later to install it?

Can I see your finished installation?

Thanks.

.

EgunMogaji:


Was the pipe for the toilet laid during German floor or was the floor broken later to install it?

Can I see your finished installation?

Thanks.

The floor was broken to have it install and about finishing, nothing of such yet.

trust101:


The floor was broken to have it install and about finishing, nothing of such yet.

Thank you for your response.

I'm going to try to lay the pipe during German floor.

EgunMogaji:


Thank you for your response.

I'm going to try to lay the pipe during German floor.

No worries. Just make sure there's enough space.

EgunMogaji:

Thank you for your response.
I'm going to try to lay the pipe during German floor.

Make sure it's well measured before laying the pipes underneath, and inch off and you are in trouble.
May be secure the toilets first and measure them to see how they protruded.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


Make sure it's well measured before laying the pipes underneath, and inch off and you are in trouble.
May be secure the toilets first and measure them to see how they protruded.

Hajji M.

Yeah you're right Chief.

So I know that there's at least two types of seats so far, the rounded and elongated. What I've found so far is that they're supposed to be a minimum of 12.5 feet from the wall (the .5 feet is for drywall which I don't "think" I'm using "so far".

I think I'll yield 15 inches from centerline of flange to the wall. My house here now is 12" to the wall. The vent stack will be old school that hangs on the outside instead of between the blocks. Herr Dokkter Darynex has perfected a system to hide all of this - and this is without me asking him. He's just brilliant.

My idea is not to "break" any floor or wall even if I have to use exposed conduits for electricity. I'm using ManaBloc for water distribution, have you heard of them?

"Standard Toilet Placement
The minimum distance between the toilet and a finished wall on either side is 15 inches. This is measured from the toilet’s centerline, not from the outside edge. The plumber determines the actual distance when he sets the toilet flange in the floor. In new construction, the plumber sets the flange after the wall framing is complete but before the builder hangs drywall. Standard drywall is 1/2 inch thick, so the plumber should set the toilet flange at least 15-1/2 inches from the center of the flange to the wall framing. The standard distance from the back wall is 12 inches, or 12-1/2 inches from the center of the flange to the wall framing. Minimum distance in front of the toilet to the facing wall or fixture is 21 inches. If space is restricted, you can ease this measurement a bit by choosing a toilet with small round bowl, instead of an elongated one. If you’re constructing a separate, closed toilet stall, minimum stall width is 30 inches with a 60 inch depth.

Recommended Placement
Building codes represent minimum allowances. [b]If possible, however, increase the distance from the toilet centerline to the wall framing to 18-1/2 inches to make it more comfortable to use the toilet. [/b]This is also true for the space in front of the toilet to the facing wall, which will be more comfortable if it’s at least 30 inches. If the toilet sits opposite a shower door, 30 inches is the minimum distance between the two fixtures, but 36 inches gives you a little more wiggle room."

All these for a fancy toilet? Are you men going to spend the whole day in the toilet? Or is there any benefit that am not aware of? If it is for decorating, I believe the hidden water closet will serve better. Kindly educate me as to why all these calculations for a toilet we all won't dare spend most of our time in.

EgunMogaji:


Yeah you're right Chief.

So I know that there's at least two types of seats so far, the rounded and elongated. What I've found so far is that they're supposed to be a minimum of 12.5 feet from the wall (the .5 feet is for drywall which I don't "think" I'm using "so far".

I think I'll yield 15 inches from centerline of flange to the wall. My house here now is 12" to the wall. The vent stack will be old school that hangs on the outside instead of between the blocks. Herr Dokkter Darynex has perfected a system to hide all of this - and this is without me asking him. He's just brilliant.

My idea is not to "break" any floor or wall even if I have to use exposed conduits for electricity. I'm using ManaBloc for water distribution, have you heard of them?

"Standard Toilet Placement
The minimum distance between the toilet and a finished wall on either side is 15 inches. This is measured from the toilet’s centerline, not from the outside edge. The plumber determines the actual distance when he sets the toilet flange in the floor. In new construction, the plumber sets the flange after the wall framing is complete but before the builder hangs drywall. Standard drywall is 1/2 inch thick, so the plumber should set the toilet flange at least 15-1/2 inches from the center of the flange to the wall framing. The standard distance from the back wall is 12 inches, or 12-1/2 inches from the center of the flange to the wall framing. Minimum distance in front of the toilet to the facing wall or fixture is 21 inches. If space is restricted, you can ease this measurement a bit by choosing a toilet with small round bowl, instead of an elongated one. If you’re constructing a separate, closed toilet stall, minimum stall width is 30 inches with a 60 inch depth.

Recommended Placement
Building codes represent minimum allowances. [b]If possible, however, increase the distance from the toilet centerline to the wall framing to 18-1/2 inches to make it more comfortable to use the toilet. [/b]This is also true for the space in front of the toilet to the facing wall, which will be more comfortable if it’s at least 30 inches. If the toilet sits opposite a shower door, 30 inches is the minimum distance between the two fixtures, but 36 inches gives you a little more wiggle room."

Good. I know very well you will do your home work. I like the way you do your research on everything.
Now that you know the measurement, just save yourself some headache and add some inches to that... the pipe will still reach the back.. since those pipes can be made to fit. If the flanges is well bolted/secured to the floor, the toilet will not wiggle, even when far from the wall.

No, I am not aware of the ManaBloc water distribution system... I won't mind the links to read more about it.
And my number builder at Oluyole (he is good) will assist on the setup too... Nevermind, I know everything, I am well informed.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


Good. I know very well you will do your home work. I like the way you do your research on everything.
Now that you know the measurement, just save yourself some headache and add some inches to that... the pipe will still reach the back.. since those pipes can be made to fit. If the flanges is well bolted/secured to the floor, the toilet will not wiggle, even when far from the wall.

No, I am not aware of the ManaBloc water distribution system... I won't mind the links to read more about it.
And my number builder at Oluyole (he is good) will assist on the setup too... Nevermind, I know everything, I am well informed.

Hajji M.

ManaBloc is a manifold water distribution system. Basically water from an outside source arrives at the manifold and there are lines (different models for different number of outputs). In my build I have 6 hot water outlets and 14 cold water outlets. So I'm adding 2 each for future expansion. SO I need a model that has 8 hot water outlets and 16 water outlets at least.

Each outlet from the manifold has a direct like to each outlet in the house. The benefits is water savings since you can control the volume/pressure of each line and even run 3/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 line as the faucet needs. It also eliminates what happens sometimes in older homes when someone is showering and looses pressure and gets cold water because someone flushed the toilet. It's just the way to go. And the hoses are very slim to can fit better within the walls . It's very cool.

If it's good enough for Bob Villa then it's good enough for me

http://www.bobvila.com/articles/manabloc-systems/#.VcuxXXitFSU

tivta:


All these for a fancy toilet? It's actually not a fancy toilet. It's just another way to do a toilet and one that I prefer because that is what I am used to for over 30 years.

Are you men going to spend the whole day in the toilet? No I'm not, but I like efficiency and doing things a certain way to please one person = me.

Or is there any benefit that am not aware of? Yes, there's a benefit to me. It may not be for you though.

If it is for decorating, I believe the hidden water closet will serve better. I[b]ts not for decorating. The american style toilet will serve me, my family and guests better.[/b]

Kindly educate me as to why all these calculations for a toilet we all won't dare spend most of our time in. Frankly reading what you wrote please stick with the european standard, it will satisfy you better. Just allow us to pursue alternatives.

Responses are in the quotes.

EgunMogaji:


Responses are in the quotes.

Bro we are all learning, I don't think I made any annoying statement am just curious as am sure most people here are, kindly educate me as to the benefits, who knows I might like it.

tivta:
Bro we are all learning, I don't think I made any annoying statement am just curious as am sure most people here are, kindly educate me as to the benefits, who knows I might like it.

I never wrote that you made any annoying statement.

You are curious which is fine, I just don't think there's a difference but a preference. I hate the european system with a passion, I hate the way the shyte tube sticks out behind the bowl.

But both types of system will shift shyte down into the soak away.

EgunMogaji:


ManaBloc is a manifold water distribution system. Basically water from an outside source arrives at the manifold and there are lines (different models for different number of outputs). In my build I have 6 hot water outlets and 14 cold water outlets. So I'm adding 2 each for future expansion. SO I need a model that has 8 hot water outlets and 16 water outlets at least.

Each outlet from the manifold has a direct like to each outlet in the house. The benefits is water savings since you can control the volume/pressure of each line and even run 3/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 line as the faucet needs. It also eliminates what happens sometimes in older homes when someone is showering and looses pressure and gets cold water because someone flushed the toilet. It's just the way to go. And the hoses are very slim to can fit better within the walls . It's very cool.

If it's good enough for Bob Villa then it's good enough for me

http://www.bobvila.com/articles/manabloc-systems/#.VcuxXXitFSU

OK. I'm following you too. Good education here. My woman mentioned something just like this when we were discussing options for managing low pressure in water pipe situations. I just couldn't picture it well then...

But you mentioned you wouldn't want the walls broken, how do you hope to to get the distribution done then? Externally along the wall? pls explain?

semitunde:


OK. I'm following you too. Good education here. My woman mentioned something just like this when we were discussing options for managing low pressure in water pipe situations. I just couldn't picture it well then...

But you mentioned you wouldn't want the walls broken, how do you hope to to get the distribution done then? Externally along the wall? pls explain?

Water and electricity lines will travel from the distribution centers in the garage through the ceiling to various locations.

In studying my floor plan in critical detail to see how to get this done.

So far in some areas I can come down the corners of the room and travel behind counters, hide the plumbing and wiring behind trims.

Not going to be easy but I like challenges.

As far as the water distribution manifold, I don't know why any modern man would build their personal homes without it today.

EgunMogaji:


I never wrote that you made any annoying statement.

You are curious which is fine, I just don't think there's a difference but a preference. I hate the european system with a passion, I hate the way the shyte tube sticks out behind the bowl.

But both types of system will shift shyte down into the soak away.

lol at the shyte, but now I understand perfectly, thanks for your time and reply.

EgunMogaji:


Water and electricity lines will travel from the distribution centers in the garage through the ceiling to various locations.

In studying my floor plan in critical detail to see how to get this done.

So far in some areas I can come down the corners of the room and travel behind counters, hide the plumbing and wiring behind trims.

Not going to be easy but I like challenges.

As far as the water distribution manifold, I don't know why any modern man would build their personal homes without it today.

OK. Thanks for explaining bro.

I have some concerns tho ( since we are sharing knowledge here); but I have to know a bit more first before I voices these.

1. What height is the distribution board placed? From the pix you posted above, it looks like its at the man's standing height, that's around 1.8-2m.

2. You said the water pressure/volume can be adjusted at the board, does that mean there are taps there to manually check the flow of water to some pipes as against others; or the board is powered and automatically pumps water to other pipes to equalize, for instance, the shower hot water as the toilet is flushed?

Now to my concerns. From experience, the height of your tank( for high level gravity storage), the the size of your pipe from the tank and at the outlet, the average distribution height of your pipes all affect the pressure of water coming out and the differentials when one outlet is used against the other. The sizes of pipes I see used in the pix, and the height of the board might suggest that the problem of water pressure differentials may not be totally solved unless the board is powered somehow to increase pressure where and when needed.

If the board is powered, it now leads to the second concern which is that first, you need to have constant electricity ( else the distribution becomes just like normal piping); and second, that if all the outlets are used at same time, because you need some more water in some outlets that others; users of some outlets will still complain that the water isn't coming out with the right amount of pressure.

Its a lot of words and I'm trying to type it before I forget it all. Hope you get what I'm saying so far though?

semitunde:


OK. Thanks for explaining bro.

I have some concerns tho ( since we are sharing knowledge here); but I have to know a bit more first before I voices these.

1. What height is the distribution board placed? From the pix you posted above, it looks like its at the man's standing height, that's around 1.8-2m.

2. You said the water pressure/volume can be adjusted at the board, does that mean there are taps there to manually check the flow of water to some pipes as against others; or the board is powered and automatically pumps water to other pipes to equalize, for instance, the shower hot water as the toilet is flushed?

Now to my concerns. From experience, the height of your tank( for high level gravity storage), the the size of your pipe from the tank and at the outlet, the average distribution height of your pipes all affect the pressure of water coming out and the differentials when one outlet is used against the other. The sizes of pipes I see used in the pix, and the height of the board might suggest that the problem of water pressure differentials may not be totally solved unless the board is powered somehow to increase pressure where and when needed.

If the board is powered, it now leads to the second concern which is that first, you need to have constant electricity ( else the distribution becomes just like normal piping); and second, that if all the outlets are used at same time, because you need some more water in some outlets that others; users of some outlets will still complain that the water isn't coming out with the right amount of pressure.

Its a lot of words and I'm trying to type it before I forget it all. Hope you get what I'm saying so far though?

1. The height doesn't affect the performance of the manifold at all. The height is chosen based on serviceability and ease of access. Mine will be installed at standing height so that I can easily turn the whole shebang off when I bounce out of the country.

2. Yes, easy output line is controlled by it's own tap, 1/4 turn tap that uses a specific wrench (included) to turn it on, off or in between. The manifold is not powered at all. The job of a manifold, even in a cars intake or exhaust manifold is to equalize pressure. That being said the input requires some specific water pressure. I can't remember what it is from the top of my head. Here in the US we have great water pressure coming in from the city water main line, enough pressure that we even have to install a water pressure regulator to reduce the pressure before it gets to the house (pic #1).

The higher your elevated water tank then the more pressure that you'll get due to gravity. My plan is to not have my EWT too high (I have a bungalow) so everything I planned accordingly. I will choose my faucets diligently to make sure that their flow is in line with what I'm doing.

So with a moderately high EWT, a pressure regulator, a manifold, a home run piping system (each faucet with it's own line off of a manifold) then pressure surges will be reduced if not eliminated, water will be saved (since output is being measured and controlled), etc

So the manifold is not powered at all.

Try to watch some YouTube videos (search for Viega ManaBloc) and maybe that will help you understand this a little bit more better. It's a great system that solves a lot of plumbing ills. Oh yeah one more thing, no soldering or gluing needed

PS: If you have time, watch this video as it explains how a manifold works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy9w7bNJWfY

EgunMogaji:


1. The height doesn't affect the performance of the manifold at all. The height is chosen based on serviceability and ease of access. Mine will be installed at standing height so that I can easily turn the whole shebang off when I bounce out of the country.

2. Yes, easy output line is controlled by it's own tap, 1/4 turn tap that uses a specific wrench (included) to turn it on, off or in between. The manifold is not powered at all. The job of a manifold, even in a cars intake or exhaust manifold is to equalize pressure. That being said the input requires some specific water pressure. I can't remember what it is from the top of my head. Here in the US we have great water pressure coming in from the city water main line, enough pressure that we even have to install a water pressure regulator to reduce the pressure before it gets to the house (pic #1).

The higher your elevated water tank then the more pressure that you'll get due to gravity. My plan is to not have my EWT too high (I have a bungalow) so everything I planned accordingly. I will choose my faucets diligently to make sure that their flow is in line with what I'm doing.

So with a moderately high EWT, a pressure regulator, a manifold, a home run piping system (each faucet with it's own line off of a manifold) then pressure surges will be reduced if not eliminated, water will be saved (since output is being measured and controlled), etc

So the manifold is not powered at all.

Try to watch some YouTube videos (search for Viega ManaBloc) and maybe that will help you understand this a little bit more better. It's a great system that solves a lot of plumbing ills. Oh yeah one more thing, no soldering or gluing needed

PS: If you have time, watch this video as it explains how a manifold works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy9w7bNJWfY

Wonderful explanation. Thanks.

Thinking back now. I am a little conversant with it ( or at least its variant). I used a pipe called PPR on one of my sites. The primary use was just to avoid the use of elbow joints in piping. I guess this also serves the same purpose excluding the manifold.

I have to say though, I hope you wont have to fully open most of the valves. Cos the pressure from the overhead tank ( say 500L, unless bigger ), may not be enough considering the size of the pipes going in from the manifold.

Thanks anyways. I can now face this lady of mine better prepared

semitunde:


Wonderful explanation. Thanks.

Thinking back now. I am a little conversant with it ( or at least its variant). I used a pipe called PPR on one of my sites. The primary use was just to avoid the use of elbow joints in piping. I guess this also serves the same purpose excluding the manifold.

I have to say though, I hope you wont have to fully open most of the valves. Cos the pressure from the overhead tank ( say 500L, unless bigger ), may not be enough considering the size of the pipes going in from the manifold.

Thanks anyways. I can now face this lady of mine better prepared

You're welcome Sir.

I intend to have an aluminum tank built for me. The sizing of it will depend on the output pressure I desire. As you stated so eloquently the larger the volume of the source tank the more pressure you'll get at the output if everything is equal.

There are also various tricks one can use to increase pressure. You can simply use a smaller valve coming out, this narrowing of the stream increases pressure. Think of a garden hose when you are washing cars.