Hello Guys,

I have been driving a 2003/2004 BMW for about 2 years now and its largely been very reliable. I have however been having some recurring problems with the car now that has driven me to this forum cos my mechanic seems to be at his wits' end. Soon after the guy worked on the suspension system (shock absorbers et al),I have been experiencing some scary vibration on the brakes with the ABS lights fluttering in the process. The man has worked on it without success. Then the car has been emitting a lot of white smoke (i understand frm discussions wit peole that this might be due to some wear in the piston). And then my cooling system problem has been perennial. This was after i changed the evaporator to a new one( at least i bought one and the AC guy told m eit has been changed!).

I will really appreciate if i cn get a very reliable mechanic that can fix this car and also any suggestions from the forum. Thankks guys!

still expecting a response from you guys

cooling system...have you done basic checks like if the radiator has a leak,have u properly bled it, is your thermostat still working properly ? I use a bmw e36 320i. I'm almost through with my suspension overhaul, new rear shocks, new RSM (Rear shock mounts), front shocks, thyroids,ball joints etc. I feel little vibration when braking from 100kmph but this is due to my worn brake discs, fixing it i'm very sure will take care of it.
do not use 2nd hand parts, these would fail unpredictably. Brand new ones are best(guaranteed life span)as the stability and balance now for me is better (parts 6 months old now still healthy)...as for your overheating issue i'l get back to u... you can visit www.bimmerforums.com

@yungboss, thanks for your response.most appreciated.i will ask my next mech to do what you have suggested. i am sure the radiator issue shouldnt be much of a problem. only that i am looking to change mechanics so am lying teh car low until i get another good mech. Last time i did a general makeover on the car, i changed the fron and rear shocks with new ones but surprised they are worn already only after abt 2 months. Where did you get your parts from?But the AC issue is themost baffling to me. didnt know it could be such an issue.

Waiting for further responses.

jameau: @yungboss, thanks for your response.most appreciated.i will ask my next mech to do what you have suggested. i am sure the radiator issue shouldnt be much of a problem. only that i am looking to change mechanics so am lying teh car low until i get another good mech. Last time i did a general makeover on the car, i changed the fron and rear shocks with new ones but surprised they are worn already only after abt 2 months. Where did you get your parts from?But the AC issue is themost baffling to me. didnt know it could be such an issue.

Waiting for further responses.

ok, by cooling system u meant A/C? Sorry i thought it was about ur engine cooling system (overheating issues)...

I meant the AC o , my brother. The over heating issue just started, but i dont think that should be a problem got i had it fixed once before. The AC is whats beoming a hard nut for my AC guy to crack. Thanks for your time.

TALK TO SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE ENGINEER AT
NIYI UMAR
SHAI AUTOCARE CENTRE
08157624299
08066374504
08080878724
NIYISNOOP@YAHOO.CO.UK

thanks for ur response niyi...
OP make ur calls...

As regards your worn piston issue, what engine oil grade have you been using and how frequent do you change your oil? BMW engines are rock solid and don't fail that quickly if you do proper maintenance.

In general, it is not advisable to give roadside mechanics money to buy your engine oil. Get info on the oil recommended for your car and make the purchase yourself from major filling stations. I use Mobil 1 0W40 for my E46.

@Denn, have been using AP' Visco 2000.I think the problem may be that there has always been a shortage in the engine oil level whichi try my best to top up regularly. But the way it is, is there any remedy apart from ringing the engine as is being suggested?

worn pistons/rings allow seepage of engine oil into the combustion chamber. this oil burns and is let out as white smoke from the exhaust (which is different from black somke which is a result of rich fuel injection issues)

am afraid that apart from changing your rings (which can only be a temporary measure in Nigeria), the next available alternative would be a 'tokunbo' engine. be ready for around 150k to 250k for a replacement in ladipo market.

once you get a 'new' engine, be ready to do proper maintenance and use only approved engine oils. Mobil 1 might cost more at N7,500.00 per gallon, but its far cheaper than the replacement engine at 250,000.00....

@ poster. If I hear u well, ur e46 is a 1.8 ltrs 4 cylinder.
Don't attemp to change unless u av peper.its an alluminium block engine, and always very sturborn.
The bigger ones with starght 6 are usually cheaper to buy and maintain.
As for the a/c look for a good electrician and probably scan to detect the problem.u might be suprised its a minor fault

My advise, look for a buyer, sell and buy a sraight 6 engine car.may be a 325i or 330
Afterall. Bmw without a big engine,is like a fighter jet with guns or like a solder in war front without gun.

@OP

The first thing you need to do is find another mechanic.

The engine doesn't need a rebuild/overhaul. White smoke means you have your cooling system getting into your combustion chamber. That is all that it is. How, is another matter entirely. A blue smoke would mean your rings are worn out. Find another person. The problem came as a result of the previous services done (as you stated).

A note of caution: if you ever venture into the territory of rebuilding an engine, get another car. There are too many attention to detail needed for such a task and when this is omitted, engine never runs well.

@Trac, great post. Really appreciate it. I will definitely get another mech as suggested. Perhaps you can also suggest one so that i take a sample of opinions from them?

jameau: @Trac, great post. Really appreciate it. I will definitely get another mech as suggested. Perhaps you can also suggest one so that i take a sample of opinions from them?

@ Jameau

I would love to assist but I don't know anyone that can help you. I use to know a person in the 90's but I don't have his information. Nairalanders would be able to help you on that. I'd recommend you go to a service shop where German or European cars are serviced; not the service shop where any vehicle is being serviced. The mindset is different, certain precautions and specifications are to be taken/done when working on German cars. This way, you don't have remedial services (especially when it is at your expense).

@ Trac been trying to track you for almost a fortnight. Need your expert input on particular mercedes Benz models that seems to be tempting me.
(1) mercedes sclass coupe 500 (97)
(2) mercedes sclass coupe 600 (97)

These cars have always tickled my fancy and I am contemplating getting either, which would you advise considering lagos roads, parts and repairs?
Thanks in anticipation

@poster call 08023226854 ---Johnson by name...If you stay in Lagos his workshop is near the Opebi link bridge.. He is good with BMWs.

Lexusgs430: @ Trac been trying to track you for almost a fortnight. Need your expert input on particular mercedes Benz models that seems to be tempting me.
(1) mercedes sclass coupe 500 (97)
(2) mercedes sclass coupe 600 (97)

These cars have always tickled my fancy and I am contemplating getting either, which would you advise considering lagos roads, parts and repairs?
Thanks in anticipation

How do you do?!

The S600 (140) is what made me a genuine Mercedes enthusiast (at the time) and I studied Mercedes and their approach to engineering and standards. Their philosophy fit my personal standards, sadly today they don't stand my their former integrity. I love the post-war Benzes and not too impressed with the contemporary ones.

You have picked two cars with very high attention to engineering detail but two different mannerisms. I am not really into the coupes but if you want to travel S-Class, the 600 is the way to go. The 6L was actually for the S Class. The 5L in my opinion were mostly suited for the E's and were stroked and rearranged for the S models. The 600 is a true keeper and it is also rare to find. It will be with you for many more years. There aren't much cars in this world today with that amount of refinement and quality. Never opt for a '99 S Class if you find one.

You are dealing with a heavy car. This will be the area of concentration we will focus on and I will try my best to list all that I can for you. I will recommend that you do a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) and pay "paranoid" attention to the suspension itself (assuming all other factors are normal). In some cases, you need not be paranoid about the inspection because you'd have drawn your conclusions about it. If unacceptable, deduct as you negotiate or walk away. It's not worth paying premium for something out of shape because you are still going to fix it.

Note: If any of the Merc's have been neglected (maintenance deferred), walk away from it. If it's been flooded, forget it. It affects your wallet and the vehicle will never get any better but worse as time progresses. Those that tell you otherwise lack understanding or have an agenda. Try soaking a system board (circuit board) in water; how do you salvage that?!

Firstly, it's german - in other words, you will have rubbers aging and rottening (breaking off). Though not much mentally, it is a pain replacing every single rubber (mounts, vacuum lines, etc). Rubbers visually might appear good but indeed it is worn out.

The main part: The best approach is to shave off cost from the total price of the vehicle if the suspension is really not at par. Suspension as most of the components that keep the vehicle as intended. This is also age-related and it is not ok to own a Mercedes with bad or worn out suspension components. Shaving off the total cost of the vehicle will help you rebuild your suspension. The V12 is also very nose-heavy and you almost overlook this. This was much of a concern for the S models were originally fitted with V rated tyres and during the course of the vehicle's production, it was later downgraded to H rated compounds to reduced wear rates.

* Engine Mounts
* Springs (you can leave the springs as a priority but the dampers should be replaced and the sway bars for acceptable roll-stiffness. The springs are dampers are isolated and can be done at a later time).
* 4 sets of dampers (shock absorber). Bilstein HD (Heavy Duty) is what you will need. You won't have to replace it again because it is lifetime.
* Strut Mounts
* Subframe mounts - this carries the bulk of the difference between an old Benz or a new one. The difference is extremely clear.
* Upper Control Arms
* Sway bar bushings (get the two outer and the two inner) - vehicle should drive in a straight line without steering input
* Rear End Sway Links
* Trailing Arm Bushings - you will have to replace this. If bad, the rear of the vehicle will begin to steer and it is extremely noticeable at freeway speeds and would require counter-steering to keep yourself in a straight line.
* Ball Joints
* Idler Arms
* Tie Rods
* Steering damper
* Sway Bars

It might appear intimidating but all these would keep the Benz as new as it can be for the age. If all these were taken care of, nobody would sell that Benz at book value.

Both engines are good and as far as I am concerned, no Achilles Heels. The 119 (V8) is my favorite V8 engine and the 156 follows it. Since you are in Lagos, two bottles of Techron is recommended. A full bottle in half a tank or mid-way between a quarter and half a tank. The second bottle should be fed through the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. From my experience, it is best done when driven for a while and the engine is at operating temperature. I usually use a spray nozzle and squirt and it goes directly through the lines to the throttle body then everywhere else it should be. It sits for 10 minutes or so and start to purge the carbon. It could also be done on a cold or warm engine but the best result that I've gotten is when the engine has been driven for a period and the process is done. This is necessary for the EGR valve from time to time as it gets clogged with carbon over time due to its long and angular orifice.

Both cars are good. I will never take the V8 over a V12.

You've gotten a project if you decide to keep your vehicle according to specs.

In terms of parts, to keep it running as long as possible and predictable, you are best to use Genuine OEM parts. It is understandable to make a compromise on small parts that can be easily replaced but not very wise when you have to do a major repair and questionable unpredictable parts are used. This is because it is expensive and the likelihood of redoing the repair is very high.


Who to recommend to repair? I use to know a person back in the 90's and i haven't spoken to him since then. He is the only Nigerian that I know that worked to specs and was very strict about it. He worked on German cars. I got his number last year but I don't have it anymore. I posted it on one of my posts and I am not sure if I deleted it. His alias is Engr. J and the post is on the Mercedes Thread. The nairalanders might be able to give it to you (if they have it). He is quite expensive but the jobs are thorough and the parts are genuine.



As you already know, looking for a Benz to purchase is half the fun. It isn't easy but that makes it fun.


Happy Benzing!

Lexusgs430: @ Trac been trying to track you for almost a fortnight. Need your expert input on particular mercedes Benz models that seems to be tempting me.
(1) mercedes sclass coupe 500 (97)
(2) mercedes sclass coupe 600 (97)

These cars have always tickled my fancy and I am contemplating getting either, which would you advise considering lagos roads, parts and repairs?
Thanks in anticipation

You are lucky I did not delete the numbers.

https://www.nairaland.com/520025/mercedes-benz-thread/10#8577704

The two numbers are there and I know him as Engineer J or just call him Jay. Tell him a Mobil staff recommended him and he will understand what's up. He is very strict - keep that in mind; it will explain many things.

xerotop:
@ poster. If I hear u well, ur e46 is a 1.8 ltrs 4 cylinder.
Don't attemp to change unless u av peper.its an alluminium block engine, and always very sturborn.
The bigger ones with starght 6 are usually cheaper to buy and maintain.
As for the a/c look for a good electrician and probably scan to detect the problem.u might be suprised its a minor fault

My advise, look for a buyer, sell and buy a sraight 6 engine car.may be a 325i or 330
Afterall. Bmw without a big engine,is like a fighter jet with guns or like a solder in war front without gun.

Hmmm

Trac:


How do you do?!

The S600 (140) is what made me a genuine Mercedes enthusiast (at the time) and I studied Mercedes and their approach to engineering and standards. Their philosophy fit my personal standards, sadly today they don't stand my their former integrity. I love the post-war Benzes and not too impressed with the contemporary ones.

You have picked two cars with very high attention to engineering detail but two different mannerisms. I am not really into the coupes but if you want to travel S-Class, the 600 is the way to go. The 6L was actually for the S Class. The 5L in my opinion were mostly suited for the E's and were stroked and rearranged for the S models. The 600 is a true keeper and it is also rare to find. It will be with you for many more years. There aren't much cars in this world today with that amount of refinement and quality. Never opt for a '99 S Class if you find one.

You are dealing with a heavy car. This will be the area of concentration we will focus on and I will try my best to list all that I can for you. I will recommend that you do a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) and pay "paranoid" attention to the suspension itself (assuming all other factors are normal). In some cases, you need not be paranoid about the inspection because you'd have drawn your conclusions about it. If unacceptable, deduct as you negotiate or walk away. It's not worth paying premium for something out of shape because you are still going to fix it.

Note: If any of the Merc's have been neglected (maintenance deferred), walk away from it. If it's been flooded, forget it. It affects your wallet and the vehicle will never get any better but worse as time progresses. Those that tell you otherwise lack understanding or have an agenda. Try soaking a system board (circuit board) in water; how do you salvage that?!

Firstly, it's german - in other words, you will have rubbers aging and rottening (breaking off). Though not much mentally, it is a pain replacing every single rubber (mounts, vacuum lines, etc). Rubbers visually might appear good but indeed it is worn out.

The main part: The best approach is to shave off cost from the total price of the vehicle if the suspension is really not at par. Suspension as most of the components that keep the vehicle as intended. This is also age-related and it is not ok to own a Mercedes with bad or worn out suspension components. Shaving off the total cost of the vehicle will help you rebuild your suspension. The V12 is also very nose-heavy and you almost overlook this. This was much of a concern for the S models were originally fitted with V rated tyres and during the course of the vehicle's production, it was later downgraded to H rated compounds to reduced wear rates.

* Engine Mounts
* Springs (you can leave the springs as a priority but the dampers should be replaced and the sway bars for acceptable roll-stiffness. The springs are dampers are isolated and can be done at a later time).
* 4 sets of dampers (shock absorber). Bilstein HD (Heavy Duty) is what you will need. You won't have to replace it again because it is lifetime.
* Strut Mounts
* Subframe mounts - this carries the bulk of the difference between an old Benz or a new one. The difference is extremely clear.
* Upper Control Arms
* Sway bar bushings (get the two outer and the two inner) - vehicle should drive in a straight line without steering input
* Rear End Sway Links
* Trailing Arm Bushings - you will have to replace this. If bad, the rear of the vehicle will begin to steer and it is extremely noticeable at freeway speeds and would require counter-steering to keep yourself in a straight line.
* Ball Joints
* Idler Arms
* Tie Rods
* Steering damper
* Sway Bars

It might appear intimidating but all these would keep the Benz as new as it can be for the age. If all these were taken care of, nobody would sell that Benz at book value.

Both engines are good and as far as I am concerned, no Achilles Heels. The 119 (V8) is my favorite V8 engine and the 156 follows it. Since you are in Lagos, two bottles of Techron is recommended. A full bottle in half a tank or mid-way between a quarter and half a tank. The second bottle should be fed through the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. From my experience, it is best done when driven for a while and the engine is at operating temperature. I usually use a spray nozzle and squirt and it goes directly through the lines to the throttle body then everywhere else it should be. It sits for 10 minutes or so and start to purge the carbon. It could also be done on a cold or warm engine but the best result that I've gotten is when the engine has been driven for a period and the process is done. This is necessary for the EGR valve from time to time as it gets clogged with carbon over time due to its long and angular orifice.

Both cars are good. I will never take the V8 over a V12.

You've gotten a project if you decide to keep your vehicle according to specs.

In terms of parts, to keep it running as long as possible and predictable, you are best to use Genuine OEM parts. It is understandable to make a compromise on small parts that can be easily replaced but not very wise when you have to do a major repair and questionable unpredictable parts are used. This is because it is expensive and the likelihood of redoing the repair is very high.


Who to recommend to repair? I use to know a person back in the 90's and i haven't spoken to him since then. He is the only Nigerian that I know that worked to specs and was very strict about it. He worked on German cars. I got his number last year but I don't have it anymore. I posted it on one of my posts and I am not sure if I deleted it. His alias is Engr. J and the post is on the Mercedes Thread. The nairalanders might be able to give it to you (if they have it). He is quite expensive but the jobs are thorough and the parts are genuine.



As you already know, looking for a Benz to purchase is half the fun. It isn't easy but that makes it fun.


Happy Benzing!

Lexusgs430 chickened out?