Conner44:


It’s a common problem in these gearboxes but it’s easy to fix. Read this post below to have an idea of the issue

https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/342#112199773

Take special note of the circled area of the bottom picture in this post for the location of the problem

https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/346#113317682

Good luck

Thank you so much. God will continue to bless you

Conner44:


I don’t know how to get a video out for you but I can direct you here with little directions. To do this easily you’d have to bring down your gearbox but if you can’t then try the below steps:

Drain out all your gearbox fluid

Get two jacks

Use one to jack up your car at the front drivers wheel and the other one to jack up your gearbox from underneath the engine bay (place flat wood in between the jack and your gearbox)

Remove your drivers wheel

Remove the rubber sand guards/protectors you see there

Take off the black rubber housing covering your transmission range switch and remove the switch itself

Remove the top and bottom gearbox mounts (you’d have to take out your battery, battery tray and intake air filter housing to easily reach the top one)

Lower the jack holding the gearbox from underneath the vehicle so the engine drops down a bit to give you a little clearance

Now undo all the bolts holding the side gearbox housing (on the side where you removed the transmission range switch facing the drivers wheel) I have forgotten exactly how many bolts they are but when you’re in there you’d easily see them

you can also remove all your suspension components on that side like the hub, linkage, shock etc to make more space for you to work

Slide the gearbox cover out from underneath the vehicle to expose the interior part of your gearbox where all the other 3 solenoids are plugged in place by their own bolts)

Undo the bolts for each solenoid, unplug their switches and remove them from the gearbox

Use carb cleaner to blast them clean and make sure you focus on their filter screens/plunger

you would not be able to clean your main transmission filter because that one is located in the interior chamber of your gearbox where the fluid is being circulated proper, hence the initial recommendation to take down the entire gearbox

After you’re done replace all solenoids back in the exact order you removed them

Reinstall the gearbox housing cover and bolts as you removed them in the reverse order and close up your gearbox (remember to use a silicone gasket maker to ensure an airtight fit between metal surfaces)

Jack the gearbox back up and install the top and bottom mounts

Put back your battery tray, battery etc

Put your wheel back properly

Fill your gearbox with 3.5 ltrs of atf-dw1 Honda fluid and start your engine to observe for fluid leaks

Cycle through your gears from P to D1 and back 5 times (while holding your brake) to circulate the new fluid through the gearbox valve body

Take the car for a slow test drive and once it’s warmed up gun the throttle to make sure you engage all your gears up to the fifth

Hopefully your jerk would be fixed as well as every other issues you’re experiencing with your gearbox

note that this fix won’t work if your gearbox fibers/clutch packs are already fried due to prior driving with low/burnt/dirty/fake or unrecommended fluid

The type of solenoids you’re looking to clean is below. Focus on the hole on the top of that black protruding pipe to take out all the debris blocking its free flow passage.

hi boss how can I reach out to you?

Check engine light has been on my Honda accord 2008 dashboard for quite a while so I opted diagnosing it. Attached is the report of the diagnosis. Kindly advise especially on the circuit low voltage error

Sagaciousd1:
Check engine light has been on my Honda accord 2008 dashboard for quite a while so I opted diagnosing it. Attached is the report of the diagnosis. Kindly advise especially on the circuit low voltage error

Is this a V6 Honda Accord?

Good evening House!

Whenever I start my car and put the gear on D4, it begins to vibrate/shake...but once I press the throttle and begin to accelerate the vibration stops.

It doesn't vibrate when on Park or Neutral.

The car is a Honda Odyssey 2001 model.


Pls what could be the cause of this issue?

kingreign:


Is this a V6 Honda Accord?

No

WycliffeSMB:
Good evening House!

Whenever I start my car and put the gear on D4, it begins to vibrate/shake...but once I press the throttle and begin to accelerate the vibration stops.

It doesn't vibrate when on Park or Neutral.

The car is a Honda Odyssey 2001 model.


Pls what could be the cause of this issue?

Pls I need responses

Sagaciousd1:
Check engine light has been on my Honda accord 2008 dashboard for quite a while so I opted diagnosing it. Attached is the report of the diagnosis. Kindly advise especially on the circuit low voltage error

The oxygen sensor in your exhaust near your catalyst is bad, change it

WycliffeSMB:
Good evening House!

Whenever I start my car and put the gear on D4, it begins to vibrate/shake...but once I press the throttle and begin to accelerate the vibration stops.

It doesn't vibrate when on Park or Neutral.

The car is a Honda Odyssey 2001 model.


Pls what could be the cause of this issue?

Doesn’t your gear have a D ? Why skip it and use the D4 in the first place?

Conner44:


Doesn’t your gear have a D ? Why skip it and use the D4 in the first place?

No Sir. It doesn't have a D.
It's just D4, D3, 2 and 1

WycliffeSMB:

No Sir. It doesn't have a D.
It's just D4, D3, 2 and 1

Okay. Then your problem is your engine mounts. One or more of them are bad. Try to take the vehicle to a mechanic to check and replace the spoiled ones and the vibrations will disappear

Conner44:


Okay. Then your problem is your engine mounts. One or more of them are bad. Try to take the vehicle to a mechanic to check and replace the spoiled ones and the vibrations will disappear

Okay. Thanks....

Can you pls give me an idea of the estimate of the cost for each engine mount?

WycliffeSMB:

Okay. Thanks....

Can you pls give me an idea of the estimate of the cost for each engine mount?

To be sincere I don’t really know. But I’d budget N9k for the front and back engine mounts each, N7k for the side engine mount and N5k for each of the 3 gearbox mounts to be safe. Remember that not all might be bad if you’re lucky

Conner44:


To be sincere I don’t really know. But I’d budget N9k for the front and back engine mounts each, N7k for the side engine mount and N5k for each of the 3 gearbox mounts to be safe. Remember that not all might be bad if you’re lucky

Alright, thanks

Good day good people
I have come again o
Last month my car eod was blinking D light, as I was driving home, so when I got home I park, they I started seeking for advice here and some other channels.

Some advice me to check the fluid level, I checked the next morning before starting the car, true it was below the low point.

So I decided not to drive it until I got another fluid, but I do start it to warm every two days, but I later begin to see, park, at same time with reverse light and D light blinking while the car is in park.

I took it to mechanic, we remove the fluid and put oando dexron 3, but these light are still showing, I was told it might be pressure switch, we changed it, we clean all the sensors that are cleanable, the electric rewire trace eventing traceable but yet these light remain.

So he remove my car ECU/brainbox and put another one from another eod, and immediately all the lights clear off, the rewire told me that my ecu got problems that I should change it.

But I told him to wait, I want hear from an expert on nairaland on what they will advice.

Should I change the brainbox or is there any possible way out.

Though the gear is driving well with those light on and D blinking.

Stubborn82:
Good day good people
I have come again o
Last month my car eod was blinking D light, as I was driving home, so when I got home I park, they I started seeking for advice here and some other channels.

Some advice me to check the fluid level, I checked the next morning before starting the car, true it was below the low point.

So I decided not to drive it until I got another fluid, but I do start it to warm every two days, but I later begin to see, park, at same time with reverse light and D light blinking while the car is in park.

I took it to mechanic, we remove the fluid and put oando dexron 3, but these light are still showing, I was told it might be pressure switch, we changed it, we clean all the sensors that are cleanable, the electric rewire trace eventing traceable but yet these light remain.

So he remove my car ECU/brainbox and put another one from another eod, and immediately all the lights clear off, the rewire told me that my ecu got problems that I should change it.

But I told him to wait, I want hear from an expert on nairaland on what they will advice.

Should I change the brainbox or is there any possible way out.

Though the gear is driving well with those light on and D blinking.

As yet he put in the other vehicles brainbox and you tested it you say it worked properly abi? Did you SCAN YOUR TRANSMISSION TO SEE THE ISSUES BEFORE YOU STARTED SWITCHING PARTS?

If you did a scan while your D light was blinking before exchanging ecu’s and there was no codes then I’d suspect your brainbox.

But if you never did a scan then I’d advise you to return your former brainbox into your vehicle and then test if it still gives the issues, if it does then SCAN THE VEHICLE TO SEE THE PROBLEM before taking any other steps.

Scanning is cheaper than replacing sensors, oils or ecu’s plus it makes you know the exact problem you should be tackling.

Conner44:


As yet he put in the other vehicles brainbox and you tested it you say it worked properly abi? Did you SCAN YOUR TRANSMISSION TO SEE THE ISSUES BEFORE YOU STARTED SWITCHING PARTS?

If you did a scan while your D light was blinking before exchanging ecu’s and there was no codes then I’d suspect your brainbox.

But if you never did a scan then I’d advise you to return your former brainbox into your vehicle and then test if it still gives the issues, if it does then SCAN THE VEHICLE TO SEE THE PROBLEM before taking any other steps.

Scanning is cheaper than replacing sensors, oils or ecu’s plus it makes you know the exact problem you should be tackling.

Thanks for your response,
We didn't do scanning, as the guy didn't have scanner, but you are right, I think we should scan the car first, I thought of that initially

Bigsunny01:



Ok

Thanks bro

Hope you later fixed the problem with the car.
You listed A/F upstream sensor amongst the sensors you replaced, please where'd you get the right A/F sensor for the car?

Neyoh90:


Thanks for the feedback. It's a 4 cylinder engine. The issue is the leakage from the identified solenoid area and tapping sound of the engine in short.

REMINDER BOSS!

The gurus in the house Please help me out with this before it gets out of proportion.
The car is Honda Accord 2004, 4 plug

CjEmmar:
The gurus in the house Please help me out with this before it gets out of proportion.
The car is Honda Accord 2004, 4 plug

What's wrong with you vehicle

Collione:


What's wrong with you vehicle

The car doesn't shift from 2-3 with ease, it delays before shifting to hear 3, and this morning the D light was blinking and after I noticed it, I parked, waited for like 5mins, and restart the car and it stopped, I recently changed the gear oil and I use the Honda recommend oil

WycliffeSMB:

No Sir. It doesn't have a D.
It's just D4, D3, 2 and 1

Have you changed the engine mount?

Did it stop the vibrations?

Originakalokalo:


Have you changed the engine mount?

Did it stop the vibrations?

Not changed it yet.
My Mechanic is yet to check

CjEmmar:


The car doesn't shift from 2-3 with ease, it delays before shifting to hear 3, and this morning the D light was blinking and after I noticed it, I parked, waited for like 5mins, and restart the car and it stopped, I recently changed the gear oil and I use the Honda recommend oil

Scan your car and post the codes. Avoid driving it till you do

WycliffeSMB:

Not changed it yet.
My Mechanic is yet to check

Okay.

Kindly give an update on this whenever you sort it out.

Originakalokalo:


Okay.

Kindly give an update on this whenever you sort it out.

Okay Sir

WycliffeSMB:

Okay Sir

Thank you sir.

Good evening House....

My AC condenser is bad.
I'd like to know the cost of replacement, and also the compressor respectively.
(Honda Odyssey 2001)

Thanks

Hello anyone who can
My Honda accord 07 RPM is on the high side when idling, it goes between 1500-2000. I want to take it to the mechanic this morning, Please what should o yell him to check.

Toylove:
Hello anyone who can
My Honda accord 07 RPM is on the high side when idling, it goes between 1500-2000. I want to take it to the mechanic this morning, Please what should o yell him to check.

I'd guess the throttle body needs servicing or replacing but then again I always advise that the cars be scanned first. Rpm surge can be caused by a number of things but if it's me I'd service my throttle body first