₦airaland Forum

abootoyyib:
Good evening bosses,

Please I have this Toyota corolla 2004 and the top is making some noise like tapping.

Please is it advise to change the top cylinder ??

If you are sure the bottom is okay yes you can replace the top.

McLizbae:
Chiefs in the house, My own na 2014 corolla LE o!!!
I feel a temporary vibration (side to side) at about 30-40km/h and as the speed get higher the vibration disappears and movement is smooth again.

The vibration is mild or almost not felt in the morning when car is just starting to drive, but gets more obvious as all parts warmed up.

Diagnosing problems over times, I have (1) changed complete drive shaft (replaced with tokumbo of course) (2) changed gear oil (got original cvt oil for the job) (3) replaced engine seats.

I have done all these over 5yrs ago now since got the car, but the shaking problem never left at anytime, seeming like it was all waste of money.

Recently a mechanic talked about inner cup, and this isn't the first time inner cup has been mentioned to be the culprit. In fact, that was the reason why I changed the complete drive shaft then. However, the new mecho is trying to convince me that the tokumbo drive shaft replaced may also be having the inner cup problems. The guy seem to be making sense here, but I am skeptical and for now, decided I will be managing the car like that. Reason is because I am scared of the process of removing and replacing inner cup at that delicate gear slot. That used to cause gear oil leaks which is a big problem for sealed gears without oil guage.

So, please advice me chiefs. Do you really thing this issue is still inner cup?

Yes the inner cup can cause it very well sir.just buy brand new drive shaft and have rest of mind. Many of those toks are nigeria used repair

TemmyDayo50:
Hello bosses. Good day.

Please I use a Nissan Altima 2008 2.5s.

I recently just changed the car's engine cos the previous one got knocked. Since I changed th engine, I've not enjoyed the car at all. The first issue was the car not revving at all which was partially fixed by the mechanic by replacing the injector mouth( throttle body). After replacement, same issue occured until a rewire checked it out and the car started revving. Also to mention, the car on idle is high around 1300-1500 rpm. It also doesn't start once in the morning until after like 3 to 4 times.

Now the main issue I'm facing is this. Once I engage the gear, the car looses power and accelerates very sluggish and once I put the car back to Neutral or Park, it doesn't rev well and the raising is sluggish. But once I switch off the car and ON again, the car revs well, once i engage gear, it looses power again even when returned to neutral or Park. Please Help

Try scan the car make first and drop the scan result sir

blacksta:
please recommend a good scanner company ... I am in lagos

If you are in lagos mainland reach out to me via whatapp for scanning and diagnoses.

blacksta:
Automatic Camry 2007 with Gear issues ...car jerks when changing Gear...I am in lagos ..where can I fix

You can reach out here
But have you scan it first to know what wrong

Fuadeiza:
Recently got a Lexus Rx350 2009 car Nigerian used.


I notice the AC sometimes blows heat instead of AC, other times it works properly.

Anyone have any idea why this is ?

Ac need to be diagnosed to know what actually wrong

capnies:
Good day wisemen please how do I get a tracker for my car

If you can get,a comprehensive insurance they will install a tracker on ur car.
But you can install tracker on ur own e plenty outside depend on ur budget.

Ivan18888888888:
I don’t know why I keep having issues with mechanics. The other time, it was my shock absorber, and now it’s my battery. So here’s what happened: About a month ago, I noticed my battery kept draining, especially after one or two days. If I tried to start my car, it wouldn’t come on.
I took it to a mechanic, and this foolish guy ran a diagnostic test that said it was my alternator. I was like, 'Ahh ahh, a 2016 car already has alternator problems?' I knew he was lying and just trying to extort money from me, so I took the car back home and have been managing it like that.

Then, a couple of days ago, I drove to the mainland to get some gadgets. I stopped to get the stuff, and when I tried to start my car, it wouldn’t start again. While trying to jump-start it, some mechanics suggested I bring the battery down. When I did, I noticed the battery was swollen. Mind you, I only just buy this battery just over a year ago (a Benz battery, to be precise). I was really surprised that a battery could go bad so easily .

But then again What I’ve been thinking is, why do most mechanics always lie to me? I’ve noticed that 99% of the mechanics I’ve dealt with in the past , always try to extort money from me by lying. I don’t know if it’s because of my looks or what,

Hmmmm but what if the Alternator dey over charge unko, still have it check tho so as to be sure it battery that died sha.
Overcharging can make the battery to swell up in some cars tho.

karo93:
Camry 2012

Suddenly goes off...more likely to happen while idling with AC on but happens in motion too.... Changed the airflow meter and it worked fine for a week. Now going off again

Ran through upto 5 airflow meters before finally getting the one that did not go off....and it only lasted one week

I don't know if there is another issue that is the real problem

Obd scanned....it no longer throws the code for air flow meter. Current code is cooling system malfunction

Any professional diagnostics in Ikeja and Ogba?

Drop the scan codes. You can chart me up trough my signature sir.

Ajani2plus:
Good day every, please I really need advice in this my car issue. I drive a 2004 corolla (1zz) engine. Recently I noticed anytime I travel from Ibadan to Lagos I'll need to top atleast 1 litre of oil and within 1 to 3 weeks of driving 1 or 2 phase of spark plug gets bad with excessive oil but aside from this my car drives well even with a little top cylinder noise. I seeked the advice of my mechanic cause we were very close he said I should rebuild the engine and change wornout parts. I gathered some cash for the work and get it done. Now, no more leak or shortage of engine oil and the smoke is gone also the engine sounds verywell under (half engine) the problem now is after finishing the job and I took it out to test drive I notice the top cylinder noise came back and this time very obvious (we took the cylinder out for grinding) and also;
1. I can't climb a small hill but drives well on normal ground
2. Sometimes while in traffic and I put the gear on neutral, the rpm goes above 2000 and sometimes below 1000.

Engineers in the house pls help me.

Problem plenty ohh
Try scan the car first

Olamlag:
Good day everyone, i drive a corolla 2001, recently when i slow down and apply brake it stalls out or dies, we already cleaned the throttle body and the air filter it kept doing the same thing when i scanned it i got random/multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300. will love to know what could be the culprit. thanks

P0300 low fuel pressure
Stalls or dies can be cause by IACV idle air control valve located around the throttle body. But first solve the p0300 first be4 going for d iacv.

yungmayor02:
Mechanic said the block has no crack. I asked him about the top cylinder and he said that was what he collected 5,000 from me for the grinding of the top

Well hmmmm make i no talk sha
But if you can afford to replace the top cylinder pls do if the block is still very okay but if not safe up and get anothet engine sir.

yungmayor02:
Further update, mechanic checked the water pump and confirmed to be working. A new temperature sensor was installed and the temperature which was initially high on the gauge went down. Took it for a test drive around a road where previously if I drove once around it would begin to exceed the normal temperature. I drove it twice around that road and the temperature gauge still moves towards the middle but doesn’t exceed it. I’m back at the mechanics place. Waiting for the engine to cool so we can top up the radiator to see how much water was lost during the drive.

Top cylinder get issue without thermostat temperature gauge is not supposed to reach the middle mark at all

yungmayor02:
Good evening guys, I erroneously left my radiator cap unlocked even though I closed it but I forgot to pull it off to confirm if it was closed after which my sister drove the vehicle to work and on her way back the vehicle shut off on the road and it was discovered that the coolant had escaped from the radiator and it had overheated.
Took it to a mechanic who diagnosed that the top gasket had failed and so I paid for its replacement. He also did some maintenance works on the engine caused by the damage from the overheating of which I will provide the details of the repair here for those who understand what he did.
I collected the vehicle yesterday and he advised me not to use a thermostat any longer as he explained it the way the usual Nigerian mechanics do. On driving it, I noticed the temperature gauge was etching towards the normal operating temperature mark which I thought was abnormal since the mechanic said he had removed the thermostat. Soon after the temperature needle started to move much higher on the gauge which is when I knew for sure something was wrong. I stopped the vehicle and waited for some times before I added water and I was able to drive the vehicle home.
Took it back to the mechanic today and he pointed out a leak in the radiator top rubber as was don clips holding the hose which I replaced. Carried out test drives and the issue persisted. Radiator was washed but the issue still persisted. He then consulted another mechanic who suggested we change the radiator completely. I purchase another double cell radiator @45,000 and unfortunately the issue still persists. I don’t know what else to do and the mechanic obviously doesn’t know what to do either. Please what could be the problem and what are the possible solutions?
Engine is a 2AZ engine. No visible smoke and no sign of liquid in the engine oil dipstick. No visible leaks except for when the engine has become very hot and I see a little bit of water that escaped from the radiator cap which I don’t think is enough to trigger overheating at that pace, usually 10-15mins after driving on high speed.

The top cylinder is warped
The first mechanic is suppose to take it for cylinder resurfacing wish he did not.
The cylinder need to be resurface and the block engine need to be check too

zainkay:
I replaced my four absorbers and also had a sound coming from inside the steering system when im driving on a rough terrain fixed. Since then I have been having issues with my abs system. It won't come up after starting the car, it will come up after driving for like five minutes, then the engine will lose power while driving, and the steering becomes stiff, if I stop and restart again, it will pick up for minutes and it will repeat the same thing. The rewire guy scanned for the codes and have it reset, but the issue still persists. Please I need your help. I'm going crazy about this. And I have spent a lot 😭😭
Camry 2014

Need to scan the car and drop the codes
Clearing the codes does not slove the problem
But seems like an steering angle sensore issue you may need to do a proper relearn. But first scan d car and drop the scan codes

duduade:
Please what are the general issues with Hyundai sonata

Thank you

Avoid overheating by all means engine is costly and to rebuild the engine is 50/50.
They hardly has transmission problem
Use synthetic oil 5w30
Service ur car when due to avoid sludge inside the engine.

Wizkhalifa2:
Good day everyone,

I drive a KIA sportage 2009, late last year I had an overheating issue, on getting home I discovered the radiator fan was burnt, so I got a rewire to install a new radiator fan. Instead of installing it the way the previous one was installed, he connected it directly to the battery using a relay, when I questioned him, he insisted that there would be no issue with the wiring. Anyways since that day my vehicle started dying while in motion, especially when you're driving slow or about to climb a speed bump. Sometimes it comes back ON after it dies, sometimes it doesn't. I thought it was a battery issue and swapped in new battery, but nothing changed.
Please what could be the problem? As my mechanic has run out of ideas.

Thanks.

Try and do compression test you head gasket fit don flat make you no no ooo

Maryjewett:
Good morning all.
I've had a problem with my tire pressure sensor after one of my tires got punctured while traveling almost a year ago. I couldn't stop because the area was dangerous and it was late. Had to use it till I got home leading to total destruction of the tire and the pressure sensor on that tire but my rim was okay.
Next day had to get a new tire and a pressure sensor.
After fixing, found out that the pressure sensor symbol on the dash kept on flashing. Took the car to my mechanic who scanned and clear the code. After a day, it came back up. My mechanic said he had to pair the sensor. Had no idea what he was talking about but till today, nothing changed. Been using it that way. Just wanted to ask the house if anyone know of any fix for this problem.
Car is Toyota camry sport 2010.
Thanks.

First scan the tire preeure sensore to be sure you dont have more than one bad sensore.
Get a new open tpms sensore and reprogram back to d car the light will surely go off

conqueror221:
My car jerk while switching gears. How do I know if you transmission oil is low/bad?

Scan the car and drop the codes

austin4real:
Hello house. I recently got a 2014 civic, but I believe the vehicle isn’t as fuel efficient as it’s suppose to be. There is an on dash display that turns green when your are driving economically and blue when driving non economically. However I observed the light is always on blue, and I’ve got an in dash warning showing “Check Emission”. How can I get back the vehicle to be fully economical on gas?

Ones you fix the check emission issue the green fuel efficient will come back on

Elui2:
Hello all.

My Es 350 check VSC light has been on for some time now.

Then when I am driving on high speed the yellow check light begins to blink and the car begins to idle roughly while driving.

The electrician diagnosed and the problem was coming from cylinder 4.

He interchanged the coil on cylinder 4 with that of another cylinder, fixed a new plug and serviced the nozzle but issue persisted when we test drive on high speed(same cylinder 4).

Then he say the next step is to check the brain box that likely the IC of cylinder 4 in the brainbox is bad.

So we will be testing out with another brainbox tomorrow.

Pls any suggestion regarding this.

Will the issue be most likely from the brainbox ?

Yes it possible the ecu is bad tho. Put another ecu and test.

2cribz:
Shut up quack

🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

lordpopular:
@kingreign @abbeyismo do you have an idea of how much I can get a replacement gear currently

Reach out to me via whatapp 08139539942 can get you all d information you need about it.

tundebabzy:
Thanks 🙏. Will that take care of all the other codes like the crank position sensor and throttle actuator. The car has entered limp mode. By the way, its also leaking oil

First let dem check the wires especially the one that enter insise the ECU might not fit in properly.
Oil leak is mechanical

tundebabzy:
Good afternoon everyone,
I drive a Kia Sportage 2012. Engine was bad and I had it changed. Mechanic delivered with some faults (driver side window not working, AC not working, head lamp and dashboard light flickering intermittently). I took it for a spin and before I got back, the ride would keep going off.

I've scanned it and it came up with these codes: P0560, P0625, P2119, P2110, P0661, P0017. You can view the full report here - https://usait.x431.com/Home/Report/reportDetail/diagnose_record_id/28c6b094ge54KwtZtZoGOM2Ylp/report_type/D/l/en-us

Am I screwed?

Let an electrician check the grand wires

lordpopular:
Hello, please I need help with my car,

My car was flooded last year and it affected my gear. I took it to a gear specialist and it was fixed and started working.

Last month I noticed that when I am increasing my speed from 40 to 60, my car does not respond immediately. It drags or jerks.

I took it back to my mechanic and I was told there was issues switching from gear 2 to gear 3 and that it skips gear 3 and goes to gear 4.

What could be the cause of this and what next steps should I take.

Car Model - 2011 Camry
Gear - 22 pin

22 pin haaa just find money and replace the gear box so you can rest.

kingreign:
No sir.

😂😂😂😂😂 why you dey run na

conqueror221:
[I did that it worked well for 2weeks and the issue resurfaced again. Alternator is not charging the battery again.quote author=Abbeyismo post=133327966]

Replace with another battery and test.

You need a good eletrician to help you check why it doing low charging.

abefeabebi:
Got a Camry muscle as toks Dec 13 and service Dec 16. But recently the maint required light just on,is it time for servicing?. Just 3 weeks work 2700km. Or something else need to be done

Maintenance light was not reset when last they service ur car. Check google to see how to reset it.

Bomaway007:
My Mechanic said I should remove the thermostat…. Is this a good idea

No dont if you remove ur thermostat ur car will stary running on low temperature and will increase fuel consumption. The engine will start to build up sludge so dont.
Just try and look for the issue and solve it instead of adding more problem to it.

Bomaway007:
Happy New year everyone..pls l need help with my 2013 Camry..At first l was hearing a sound that always comes up in the afternoon when the weather is hot l will hear a sound for like a minute or two after l start the car and put on the AC and press the gas pedal ppl say it’s belt and not big deal but the real problem happened few days ago l was traveling and saw my temperature gauge above the middle l pulled up immediately and open the hood l saw my coolant reservoir full to the brim I let it cool down and I checked again then I saw the coolant in reservoir boiling then after some minutes again when it as cool down I can’t find any coolant in the reservoir and the radiator is low in liquid l called a roadside mechanic who said l needed to by coolant he bought the coolant and fill the radiator and also the reservoir to the marked point and I was able to drive the car to many destinations with the temperature gauge normal the second morning I checked again the coolant in the reservoir as dropped to the middle but radiator was full then I bought another coolant and topped the coolant reservoir again to the normal point and drive the car that day but the second morning l checked again and I can only see just small coolant in the reservoir below the lower mark what could be the problem my car AC work perfectly good

It possible you have a leak from somewhere
Radiator
Heater core
Water pump
Hose
Top gasket
Get a technician to help you check it troughly so you can know where the issue is coming from.

idris2g:
Good day house,
I have an issue with my Honda Civic 2008 model. My car uses drum brakes (lining) at the back and it's always leaking oil every now and then. My mechanic and even brake master has changed the rubber severally but after few days or weeks it starts leaking again. I was now advised to convert it to brake disc to have peace of mind. Pls like how much would all the mechanical parts needed for the conversion cost before they start calling inflated price for me. Please....

Very simple thing
Get another back break drums
Get another break pots since they have work on d old ones,let then adjust the breaks well the leaks will stop.
But you can still convert to brak disks the choice is urs.