₦airaland Forum

GAZZUZZ:
blocked catalytic converter

Please can you explain further. ?

Engineers. I need help o. Was traveling with my accord 2010 v6. Half way through the trip. I noticed the car doesn’t accelerate properly again. Its jacks when ever i step on the pedal. Until i gently put pressure on it before it moves further. Occasionally powering off the engine until i restart it.
I suspected the fuel pump, stopped at a road side mechanic to have the fuel pump replaced. He checked the pump and said its likely weak. Bought a brand new one cause he said belgium pumps are mainly luck. I set out on my trip again and after 20 to 30 min. The accelerator wasnt working again and the car started jacking again. Speed reduced from 120 to 80 to 60. To 40. I had to manage 40km/h to my destination. It was a horrible trip. Please could it be the new pump is also faulty. Or their are other underlying issues here. Ps after getting to my destination when i tested the car after few hours. It functioned properly. Until after about an hour of driving it then i noticed i have to floor the accelerator before it even gets to 60km/h. Please any advice.
cc:
Gazzuzz
Radautoworks
Nurey
Kingreign

kingreign:
What recent repairs or service have you done on the car?

I asked a rewire to remove the fan relay (qazeems) did. And return it to factory default. Thats when those lights started appearing

Please i need help. These lights suddenly all came on after parking the car for a while. It wasnt like this before. The VSA LIGHT. BRAKE LIGHT(even after the hand brake is dropped and the ABS light. Accord 2010
cc:
Gazzuzz
Radautoworks
Nurey
Kingreign

Pentools:
Hello house, please I need your professional and thorough analytical input on this, hence it's beginning to mess with my head, trying not to make bad choices...

I'm faced with three options in getting a new car, those three options are:- Mercedes Benz C300 upwards, Lexus Is250 2007 upwards, and Hyundai Sonata 2012/2014 GLS.

NB:- I'd like to know what commonly and easily spoils most in the three respectively, and what's the cost of fixing it, and also avoiding it...

Please my people, which would you rather suggest I go for considering :-

Nigeria Road...
Maintenance...
Parts and professional mechanics availability..
Strong and Durability....
Seemingly affordable in parts purchase...
Prestige and class...

Please help me with candid and experienced suggestions, as it will highly be appreciated....

I dont have much experience with the other cars listed. But for is250. I can tell you its a pretty small uncomfortable car. Unless you are a bachelor or not looking to have enough crowd in your car. You can go for the is250. If not. The back sit space is small amd boot nt so big too. And the benz. It depends on the year you going for

GAZZUZZ:
These landed at almost 300k

Knew it would cost an arm and a leg
But on ali. These types goes for around 200 to 300$

Conner44:
Just search for 8th gen Honda inspire headlights on eBay/Amazon/aliexpress etc. Your own should look like below but it’s rare to see it too.

Ok. Just saw some on AliExpress and i have to say. They are expensive. Yeeesh. Costs at least 300$. For full led headlamp.
If they have it locally available. It might be cheaper to get the tokunbo

Conner44:
Sorry it’s only for the 2003-2007 accords. Night pics not mine but it looks something like that.

2010 accords should have their own JDM Inspire versions, you should check out their own headlights too.

What can i search for on ali express. I need like a model name or something

Conner44:
@ ahmstrng

See, don’t waste your money buying any of those HID bulbs and stuff. They will look fine when you stand in front of your car and view them but when you’re driving inside in the night you won’t see far and potholes would be invisible when you’re on high speed.

Instead...

Search for jdm inspire uc1 headlights. Saber (white) or Kouki (black) and buy any pair. The low beams alone are ballasts and light up your way and it makes your ride look cool too. You don’t need to use high beams except to ‘flash’ oncoming drivers.

They are rare and pricey but I recommend them especially if you’re in need of decent visibility in the road at night. I bought a pair for N50k (used) and haven’t regretted it.

You got that for the 2010 accord? Care to share more pictures ?

madgoat:
I am also interested in this. I want to also change the lights on my Accord 2010. Plz when u get a name/brand plz mention me. My rewire was advising i dont change the lights because the LED lights will be bright but wont shine far.
How much did the local prices go for?

Still searching for a brand i can look for on ali. Since i can get better prices there. Locally here. Its 4k per pack. And each pack contains 2 bulb

radautoworks:
IMO. It's a lot easier and cheaper to take the bulb out if the light is worrying you

Please i need your recommendation for my accord 2010. I want to change the head lamp bulbs to these modern brighter led ones. But u dont know what to check for on AliExpress. Please. If you have any idea on what to search for online. Cause i want to get it myself. The local prices here are too high. And I’ll prefer ordering and fixing it myself here. So please. What brand or make. Or type should i look for. I keep seeing diff types with fan and without fan. I await your response.

TemmyDayo50:
Good Morning to us all! Please I use an Honda accord 2007 with v6 engine. A spanner like indicator showed up on the dashboard with 15% oil life. I serviced the engine last just about 2 weeks ago and I'm sure I haven't even covered 100miles on it.

Could it be the indicator just needs a reset or the oil really needs to be changed again?

Google how to reset accord oil health

AutoMoTech:
I always love testimonies from people who have used the cars rather than hear say or what we read on the net

Thanks for this.

I see alot of toyota slander and honda slander alot here.
Just decided to lend my opinion.
I dont get why people still hate on honda alot. Well i guess they messed up with the eod model. But they really did upgrade from the 2008- models. The control. Even while on speed with the accord is just so good. It wowed me. And for a v6. The fuel economy is very very good. Compared to my friends lexus es350 2007.
I cant imagine how the v4 accord would be. Guess i wont be able to find out. Cause i picked power over fuel economy

blockgeek69:
Thanks for the input. How is the fuel consumption of your V6? I heard V6 takes more fuel than V4, correct me if I am wrong. Thanks!

Yeah it does. But not some kind of massive difference. And youd mainly feel the fuel burn when you accelerate around like crazy. Which is one of the main reason why i went for v6. But I’ll totally recommend the accord over camry

blockgeek69:
I'm looking at buying my first car next month, but I haven't been able to reconcile my choice between Honda Accord 2010 and Camry 2010. Experts in the house, please advice which is better in terms of budget, engine, general specs and any other thing you can think of. Thanks

PS: I'm considering clean and well maintained Nigerian use car for now!

I was using a camry 2008 before switching to accord 2010 v6. I have to say. Its the best decision i ever made. Not only is the accord more comfortable. The specs are actually better to me too. Its cheap to maintain. Drives smoother. Genuinely bias aside. I whole heartedly love the accord more than i ever enjoyed the camry.
If you are conflicted. Which i was too. When i was deciding if i should move to a honda brand. Just trust it. The accord is wayy better than muscle

sholarb:
Speaking from experience, most likely cause is bad fuel...change station where you buy fuel immediately. If you lucky, the code will go off, else P0420 might show up soon. Worked for me and a friend that uses same car...for almost 2yrs now, I buy fuel from same station for the Accord.

You will know whenever you buy quality fuel; instant throttle response and no slight vibration at cold startups in the morning.

Ok. Noted. Cause i recently changed station fully 2 weeks ago. Usually i only top up on that end. Then i started buying full thank from then. Did a top up at another station today. I’ll get my next full thank from them. I’ll try that. I’ll change station and see. And then i used the machine to clear the error code. So I’ll give it a try and see

radautoworks:
Catalytic converter bad

And what is that please

Conner44:
Yes that’s how it’s supposed to work. So far as you’re not giving the car gas (accelerating) the ecu would go into eco mode.

I had it scanned after our conversation. No error codes came up. That was about a week ago. While driving this morning. My engine light came on. I had it scanned.and i got this error. What do you think might have caused it and how can it be fixed

MrBentleyLP:
Hello Sirs,

Please help out with this issues. My Vehicle (Honda Accord 08 V6) was scanned and the scanner brought out the following error codes:

61-01 Modulator-Control Unit Initial IG low Voltage
83-19 ECM/PCM Relation Failure
P3400 Valve Pause System (VPS) Stuck Off
P0305 Misfire No. 5 Cylinder

How serious are these issues, how to go about these issues, is it safe to keep driving the vehicle and where can I get it fixed. I will appreciate if anyone can recommend a competent and trustworthy autoshop that can get all these issues fixed.

Thanks in advance for your kind advise and contributions.

Tag conner44

Conner44:
Yes it is possible. In your cars ecu there’s both Automatic transmission, abs and srs codes plus temporary codes too that may or may not have been fixed/cleared properly. The scan will reveal all.

Some dubious auto mechanics and electrical technicians also disable or block the CEL light from illuminating too.

Oh. I’ll go have it scanned in an hour or so.
I also noticed. Contrary to what i see online and what you said. My eco mode doesnt come on when im in a slow traffic. It only comes after I accelerate and release the pedal. When the rpm drops bellow 2. Thats when it comes on. I could be going from 40kmph to 100. And it wont come on. But as soon as I release the pedal and the rpm drops below 2. Even if the speed is still at 80kmph plus. It’ll display the eco more. Is that how its supposed to run?

Conner44:
Then go somewhere else and pay for ONLY a scan and bring any codes you see back here.

That’s the next step you’d take.

Ok I’ll go there. Is it possible for the computer to display error codes without check engine light being on

Conner44:
Let me understand you clearly, are the below the steps you and the mechanic followed?

1. You said you first had the check engine light

2. Then you replaced the thermostat

3. Then the CEL was still on

4. Then you scanned and got codes for the sensor

5. Then mechanic replaced some sensors but didn’t send the CEL away

6. Then he went underneath the car and did something

7. Then the CEL went away

8. Then you took your car happily home

Okay good now for my question...

Did the mechanic scan the car again after step 6?

For what it’s worth Honda actually created the car to run with the VCM/eco mode active, so what you’re trying to do by asking me all these questions is to try and cancel your active VCM by deleting your thermostat WHICH IS 100% WRONG... don’t even think of it again.

I already told you, leave the thermostat in your engine and use your car that way with the VCM/eco mode active for as long as you own that car and follow the maintenance system I posted a few spots above so you can enjoy your car for as long as desired without any issues.

Going back to revert anything your electrician did might spell doom for the engine especially if you’re not sure what he did after step 6 above. Go back and ask him what he did to make your CEL go off first then we can know if it had anything to do with the VCM of your car.

Exactly. I have no idea what he did in step 6. But thats basically how the cel went off. I’ll try and ask him what he did. But the funny thing is they dont want to talk. As per its something like a trade secret

Conner44:
No bro, tat was never the reason. Our 9ja kazeem don’t know what VCM even means self so they took out your thermostat ignorantly.

The damage will occur rapidly without your thermostat in the engine.

The short run could be from 3-5 years using 20W50 engine oil and the long run will be around 5-7 years using recommended fluids WITHOUT YOUR THERMOSTAT IN THE ENGINE.

So unless you plan to use your ride for only 3 - 5 years and sell off with engine palava then take out the thermostat and continue using it like that.

The damage on the J series VCM engine occurs because of UNEVEN ENGINE CYLINDER TEMPERATURES and only your thermostat can mitigate such an occurrence.

Choose your poison well

I understand you now. But like i said in my second post. After installing the thermostat. The check engine light was still on. It was only after an electrician went under the car and taped some few things. It was only then the check engine light went off. Cause after scanning with the computer after i replaced the thermostat. It kept saying a sensor wasn’t present. Until the electrician taped something under the car. Thats when it went off. So what i asked if basically. Can i go back to electrician. And have him revert what he did. Cause the thermostat was present. And the check engine was on before he fixed taped something

Conner44:
Oh nice. You’re lucky that only the absent thermostat caused your check engine light. You’re in luck bro.

Just leave the thermostat in the car and never take it out EVER AGAIN. it’s supposed to be in there.

Now that eco mode light is exactly what shows on your dash once your VCM is active, it come on and off erratically and causes your ride to be slow to throttle response when it’s on just to conserve energy. While the eco light is on half your cylinders have shut down and this is what causes rapid cylinder piston & rings wear on your engine (especially if you’re using 20W50 vegetable oil in your car).

For eco mode/VCM to engage your engine has to reach a certain proper temperature to activate and this temperature can only be reached when your thermostat is in play. Now what this VCM Muzzler does is to ‘trick’ your cars ecu/computer into believing your car is still running ~2 degrees centigrade lower than the recommended one for the car thereby not allowing the cars computer to activate the vehicles VCM functions at all.

Please never take out that thermostat ever again and instead purchase the VCM muzzler and install it in your engine. It’s pretty easy to do as a diy or by an auto electrician too.

So basically you should get a VCM muzzler to achieve the full potential of your engine without any downsides at all if you want steady power to your wheels without cause if any engine damage while still maintaining your car’s mpg.

A quick recap of what transpired with the thermostat.
After i got the thermostat re-installed. The check engine light was still on. And the scanner said the p125 sensor or something like that wasnt installed. After trying multiple sensors. The computer kept saying the same error. Then a rewire said he knew the problem. He went under the car. And taped something. I have no idea what that was. But it seem to work and the check engine light went off and never returned. Now. With this whole eco mode being bad. Im starting to reconsider if i should go back and have them revert the whole thing. So the check engine like can return and the eco mode can go off permanently

Conner44:
Oh nice. You’re lucky that only the absent thermostat caused your check engine light. You’re in luck bro.

Just leave the thermostat in the car and never take it out EVER AGAIN. it’s supposed to be in there.

Now that eco mode light is exactly what shows on your dash once your VCM is active, it come on and off erratically and causes your ride to be slow to throttle response when it’s on just to conserve energy. While the eco light is on half your cylinders have shut down and this is what causes rapid cylinder piston & rings wear on your engine (especially if you’re using 20W50 vegetable oil in your car).

For eco mode/VCM to engage your engine has to reach a certain proper temperature to activate and this temperature can only be reached when your thermostat is in play. Now what this VCM Muzzler does is to ‘trick’ your cars ecu/computer into believing your car is still running ~2 degrees centigrade lower than the recommended one for the car thereby not allowing the cars computer to activate the vehicles VCM functions at all.

Please never take out that thermostat ever again and instead purchase the VCM muzzler and install it in your engine. It’s pretty easy to do as a diy or by an auto electrician too.

So basically you should get a VCM muzzler to achieve the full potential of your engine without any downsides at all if you want steady power to your wheels without cause if any engine damage while still maintaining your car’s mpg.

I understand. Was that the effect they were trying to achieve before that made them remove the thermostat? Surprisingly enough With the absent thermostat i never faced any issue or is it in a long run damage?

ahmstrng:
Is there any difference between vcm delete and removing the thermostat of the car. Excuse my ignorance. When i got the car. The thermostat was absent. The check engine light was always on cause of it. Because of that. The eco mode never comes on and the engine was always working at max capacity and yes. I feel it when I accelerate too. Its sharp. After advice from the forum. I got a thermostat to it. And the check engine cleared. Immediately it did my eco mode came back on and i noticed the car doesn’t accelerate as much as before anymore unless i step hard on the throttle. Could that be what you mean? And no. With the thermostat absent before. It doesnt over heat at all. I’ll love to hear your response on this

And then again. Going through the links you provided. Eco mode definitely means the cylinder deactivation. Does that really mean when thermostat was removed. It was all done to deactivate that same eco mode. Cause definitely now. The car doesnt react as fast as it used to when the thermostat was removed

Conner44:
That’s a wonderful car that gives no issue (the 4cyl version sha) if it’s the V6 .... then you need to pop your hood and look at your engine.

Is it a VCM type? If it has Variable Cylinder Management technology then there’s a slight problem if you wish to keep that car for more than 5 years straight.

VCM is a technology created by Honda to minimize fuel consumption and improve its mpg but it comes with its own wahala.

How this VCM works is by shutting down some cylinders in the engine when when you’re either stopped at a red light or cruising lightly around town. It allows only half the cylinders to run when you’re slow and activated the remaining cylinders when you step on the accelerator to move faster. While this is a nice feature of the Honda J series V6 engine it can cause issues for the engine in the long run by allowing half of your engine run HOT and the other half running COLD most of the time in city stop and go traffic which will cause catastrophic damage to your engine after a few miles down the road.

In order to reduce wear and tear on your engine do the following religiously,

1. Only use synthetic oil and change before 5000 kilometers on your odometer

2. Change all your spark plugs at least once a year

3. If you really want to enjoy your car for decades without worrying about your engine knocking because of the VCM then you can invest in a ‘VCM DELETE’ (google vcm muzzler). This piece of equipment will disable the engines VCM feature and allow all your cylinders to be firing ast all times. This won’t affect your fuel consumption above ~1mpg but will maintain steady temperatures throughout your engine thereby bypassing all the issues that VCM may bring up in the future PLUS you’d immediately feel a better response in your card throttle actuation as you drive.

Read up on the links below for more insight. The Honda Odyssey and Pilot also use the same type of engine too. For me I’d still buy a Honda V6 VCM J-Series engine ride but I’d definitely disable its VCM functionality immediately I do so I can use it with peace of mind.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/is-the-vcm-on-honda-accord-v6s-a-problem-area.255602/

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/are-the-vcm-problems-corrected-in-generation-9-v6-ex-l-sedans.358690/

https://www.odyclub.com/threads/my-experience-with-vcm-and-engine-failure.272586/

Is there any difference between vcm delete and removing the thermostat of the car. Excuse my ignorance. When i got the car. The thermostat was absent. The check engine light was always on cause of it. Because of that. The eco mode never comes on and the engine was always working at max capacity and yes. I feel it when I accelerate too. Its sharp. After advice from the forum. I got a thermostat to it. And the check engine cleared. Immediately it did my eco mode came back on and i noticed the car doesn’t accelerate as much as before anymore unless i step hard on the throttle. Could that be what you mean? And no. With the thermostat absent before. It doesnt over heat at all. I’ll love to hear your response on this

Conner44:
Then follow the details outlined in my post to rejuvenate your engine and enjoy the full power of your I-VTEC yo!

Any proper guide or maintenance process suggestions for me. Accord 2010 v6

GAZZUZZ:
What's done is done, keep observing . As long as previous owner kept to strict oil change intervals with the right oil weights you will be fine.

Ok. Thank you for your response.

GAZZUZZ:
Start with 5w30 synth blend for 3000miles drain interval and see how the engine takes it. If no oil burn and no erratic oil colour change, then you can do full or blend 5w20

Liqui moly 5w20 was recommended. I dont know when or if to make the switch. Since i just serviced few weeks back

GAZZUZZ:
Did you buy this vehicle Nigerian used. If yes, do not be in a hurry to switch engine oils to the recommended specifications to avoid engine damage.

No. Its foreign used. But the car dealer definitely serviced it. Like they do to their other cars too

weyreypey:
Liquimoly contact midoda

What particular type. 5w20 5w30. Which to be precise. And is there an alternate if this isn’t available to me here in ilorin