quote]Chem 101.

Effect of Glycol on pure(distilled)

Elevation of boiling point & depression of freezing point i.e. With 50%glycol(70% max for Alaska region Grin) your radiator fluid will freeze below 0c evaporate above 100c.

So in very cold temp it will act as antifreeze and at hot temp act as coolant, so you just increased the effective range of your fluid.
[quote][/quote]

Thanks for the nice research.
Remember we took that course together ! This is similar to the effects of impurities on boiling and freezing points of water. Here the "impurity" is glycol.
While you excused yourself to blow your nose outside, the Professor explained the elevation and depression phenomena thus:
Depression: pure water will freeze @ 0 Celsius. But an about 50% glycol water mix will still be liquid till about - 40 C.

Elevation: pure water evaporates at 100C, but a 50% water/glycol mix will not evaporate at 100C. The mixture will still be liquid at temp greater than 100c, may be 120C or more. He did not say . Yes, you increase the working range of your coolant.

The good old Professor DID not say that the coolant mixture will act as a coolant at hot temp. The cooling effect is strictly a function of the Specific heat capacity of the fluid. For water it is 4.184KJ/KgK , and for glycol 2.38KJ/KgK. The effective heat capacity of the water/glycol mix becomes lower than that of pure water. That is why you have to increase the amount of water/glycol mix to achieve same cooling effect as that of pure water

The water/glycol are only transferring heat from your engine to the heat exchanger unit (the radiator and fan), where the heat is given off to the surroundings, and the mixture flows back to the engine to pick up more heat. The cycle continues. FINITO ;

It is water cooled. Pls read the explanations above before sending mails.

Cheers

yes man. they are listening

I have two on ground in Lagos now. Drop your email or phone and be contacted asap. A quick deal may be reached

my contacts
0047-99339392
email: jucol7000@yahoo.com

@Monitor 1.

I am highly honoured by your response. You are a darling

The Id is Jucol, and not jucon pls

cheers

"banned" Jucol

No. I sent the mail yesterday. Since I have not been able to post as Jucol today, I assume the ban remains in place till further notice . I am quite sure they will fix it.

Note that you may not be able follow these guidelines to the letters in Naija for obvious reasons

Note that you may not be able follow these guidelines to the letters in Naija for obvious reasons

Thanks man. I have notified moderator 1.
The ban remains in place till further notice from Commander-in-chief

cheers

banned Jucol

[size=14pt]The links below will help you to :

1. Identify accident cars.

2. Learn how to test drive used cars.

3. lots more

http://www.samarins.com/check/bodycond.html

http://usedcars.about.com/od/gettingstarted/ss/UsedCarInspect.htm

Give me a feedback if you found this information useful

1. Test Driving a Used Car

The most important thing to remember when test driving a used car is you are the customer. That's how  you test drive a used car. The customer is always right. You set the agenda when it comes to your test drive – not the sales rep or the owner if it’s a private sale. If any aspect of the test drive makes you feel uncomfortable – walk away. Trust your gut feelings. Preparation is key. Make sure you’re an informed used-car shopper before taking the test drive. A little homework will put you in a used car that exceeds your expectations. Also, this isn’t the time to diagnose problems. That’s not your goal in a test drive. You want to identify problems for your mechanic to inspect and offer solutions, including price. Don’t try to solve a car’s problems during the test drive.

Map Out a Driving Route:

Don’t drive haphazardly and don’t let the owner direct the trip. Google Maps and Mapquest can help you out. Make the test route a mixture of local streets, highways, and a big empty parking lot. A long highway on-ramp is a good place for testing a vehicle’s acceleration. Also, pack a notepad or recorder. They help you remember what you liked and disliked. Plus it can remind you what you want your mechanic to inspect.

Don’t bring the family along:

They’ll be too distracting. Do bring along a spouse or partner who is sharing in the decision-making process. If you have young kids, bring along car seats or booster seats to check their fit. Just don’t bring the kids. You need to devote 100% of your attention to the test drive.

Make It Last:

Negotiate how long the test drive can be. Shoot for at least a half-hour. It’s unlikely the owner will let you fly solo, but it’s worth a shot. Also, ask for all the records of the car, including the owner’s guide and maintenance records, and make sure the basic tire changing tools are still with the vehicle.

Walk around the car:

Look for chips in the windshield or excessive body wear. (There will be some chips and scratches on almost all used vehicles.) Lots of chips and scratches along the wheelbase could indicate it was driven in less than ideal conditions. Make sure the tires are properly inflated.

Pop the trunk:

Does it fulfill your storage needs? Open a grocery bag to see if it fits. Check if the trunk meets your recreational needs, too. Don’t drag along your golf clubs, but a tape measure would come in handy. Also, look for signs of leaks. Ask if the backseat folds for more space – and then make sure it does.

Clear the Air:

Take down the air freshener if it’s hanging from the rearview mirror. Put it in the glove compartment. Once you’ve finished driving, give the vehicle a good sniff test. Don’t be afraid to put your nose to the seats to see if any odors have sunk in.
The White Glove Test: Look the interior over for any spots or stains. Odds are they’re set for life if the owner hasn’t cleaned them up.
Hop in and out: Hop in and out a few times. Get a feel for how comfortable this is for you and how well the doors open and shut and how heavy they are. See if it’s easy to reach the door handle. Climb in the backseat, too. See if the vehicle’s going to be a good people hauler if that’s important to you.

Hop in the driver’s seat:

See if you can set the seat to your comfort. Are power seat buttons easy to operate when the door is closed? Don’t compromise. You’ll be spending tens of thousands of miles behind the wheel. Nothing short of perfect should do.
Fiddle with the controls: Adjust the mirrors. See if the radio and air conditioning controls are within easy reach.

Adjust the steering wheel:

Does it tilt and telescope? Does the position fit you comfortably? Do the redundant audio and cruise control buttons work?

Test the A/C and heat:

Make sure they blow cold and hot. Test cold before heat because it takes a while for an engine to warm up. Cold air should blow in less than a minute. Bring the temperatures to their extremes. Check the vents to see if they close and open smoothly. Hop in the backseat to make sure the systems work back there, too.

Get a feel for the transmission:

Does the car shift easily from park to drive if it’s an automatic? A loud clunk doesn’t mean there’s a problem per se, but make a note so your mechanic can check it out. A manual transmission should shift easily among the gears. The clutch should also engage the transmission easily.

Turn the key:

It’s something you’ll do at least twice a day for as long as you own the car. See if the car starts easily: not just how it turns over, but how much effort is needed to turn the key. Also, see how easy it is to remove the key. Finally, make sure the seller has two sets of keys and even a valet key. Keys can be expensive to replace.

Drive responsibly:

Don't jackrabbit from the start. You’ll make the owner nervous and probably scotch the sale. However, don’t hesitate to do it once you’re comfortable with the vehicle. Just warn the owner.

Drive a mixed route:
Look for how well the car merges onto the highway. See what visibility is like on local streets. See how easy it is to view traffic signals.


The steering:
When you turn the steering wheel does it respond promptly? Or, is there some delay in response? There should be no play in the steering wheel.

Hit the brakes:
Find a quiet area, get the car up to the maximum legal speed, and jam on the brakes. See if the car pulls to the left or right. The brake pedal should have a firm feel. Soft or squishy brake response should be checked out. ABS brakes will act differently.

Check the alignment:
When safe to do so take your hand off the wheel and see if the car pulls in one direction. Do this a couple of times on different road surfaces. This test indicates potential front-end alignment issues.

Find a bumpy surface:
It could be an unsmooth road or a parking lot with speed bumps. See how the car responds after hitting bumps. It should’t wiggle like a bowl of Jell-O.

Keep your mouth shut:
This is an old journalism trick that works with used car buying. People hate silence. It makes them want to talk. You’d be surprised how often owners will start talking about problems with the vehicle when a squeak or rattle presents itself. Play the stereo briefly and crank it all the way up to see if there is any distortion in the speakers.

Go parking:
Take the car into a parking lot. See how easy it is to park. (Urban dwellers should also parallel park the vehicle.) Parking lots can be a good low-speed indicator of a vehicle’s visibility. Problems at 5 mph multiply exponentially on a busy highway.

End of the Drive

If you’re still interested, ask the owner when you can bring the car to a mechanic. Never buy a vehicle that has not been independently inspected. You’re opening yourself up to a lot of headaches.
Make your notes right away with questions and concerns for your mechanic. Also, take a moment to rate the car. Use this evaluation system to help you out.
If you have any doubts, walk away. There are plenty of cars for sale[/size]

@Gestapo

Thanks for your concern. I hope the ban/mistake is rectified asap. Someone should re-write the program code then

cheers

"Banned" Jucol

@Diehard1.

I had a similar problem on my Renault Laguna. Though they are not the same  cars, the symptoms and remedies are the same in this case. I had the vibrations when the brakes are applied at above 60Km/h.

Change the following:

1. The front rotors( brake discs) are either worn or have fractures/lines of cracks that may not be noticeable to the eyes. Your rotors may look thick, but with the cracks, you have that problem (mine were still very thick).  Get new/ tokunbo ones.

2. The tie-rod end below the rotor. Let your mechanic check that too for free play. Mine was playing a bit.

Get a Haynes repair manual for your car: My Haynes manual explains everything with diagrams , and told me how to change the parts all by my self.
After the repairs, I took the car for EU control and there was no negative comment on the repairs I did.

You can do better with that manual, and stop shouting help help help like small pikin ( no bad bellee

Cheers

Banned  Jucol



I am not a mechanic .

SOURCE: www.samarins.com

LEAVE A COMMENT IF YOU FIND THIS INFO USEFUL/IRRELEVANT TO YOU SO ONE CAN IMPROVE . THE ATTACHED FILE HAS PICTURES(

[size=14pt]How to check automatic transmission and discover possible transmission problem when buying a used car.

Please note, the information below is designed to give you an initial idea about what to look for when buying a used car and may help you to eliminate some used cars with potential problems, but it can not substitute for detailed mechanical inspection performed by a professional. As a final step before purchase, take the car to a mechanic of your choice for thorough mechanical inspection.

Automatic transmission

An automatic transmission becomes more reliable these days, but still it's a most-easy-to-break and very-expensive-to-fix part of the vehicle. If heavily abused, the automatic transmission can be easily destroyed within just half an hour. For example, a friend of mine had burnt the automatic transmission up in 20 minutes when he was trying to free his shiny Audi from the snow in the next day after he bought it! It cost him about $2000 to rebuild it and after one year it broke down again. Also, an automatic transmission is very sensitive to the transmission fluid quality and condition. Improper fluid type can damage the transmission. A person I know added a gear oil (oil for manual transmission) into the automatic transmission. Guess what, 30 minutes of driving was enough to kill the transmission. Obviously, when buying a used car, the automatic transmission is one of the most important parts to check. In this article I described few signs that may indicate potential transmission problem in a used car. In addition, I strongly recommend to have the used car inspected by a mechanic before buying it, it will well worth it.

At the beginning

First, check the used car history records; it may save you some time and money. If the used car history report shows that the car you want to buy was used as a rental vehicle or has been involved in an accident, there is no point to even look at it. Follow this link to find out How to check a used car history Ask the previous owner or salesperson if any repair has been done to the transmission. If the automatic transmission is already rebuilt, try to avoid buying such a car. It's not like all rebuilt transmission will have problems - some of them work even better than before. The problem is
that not all transmission shops can do equally the same high-quality job. And since there is no way to verify if it was rebuilt properly or not, it's better not to take chances. Another thing to be concern about, ask if the car you are looking for was used for towing a trailer. I've seen the transmission worn out in many cars that were used for towing a trailer.

How to check an automatic transmission

First, check the transmission fluid level and condition. If you don't know how to do it, here is an illustration: How to check the automatic fluid With the engine idling, transmission in "Park" (some car may have different procedure, refer to owner's manual) remove the automatic transmission dipstick and wipe it out with the clean cloth. Then insert it back and pull out again. Check the fluid level, low level may indicate a transmission leak. Look at the fluid very closely. It helps to drip the fluid on a white paper to be able to see fluid condition. The fluid on the paper should be clean and transparent, without any metal filings or black flakes. New fluid usually comes red. Over the time and use it become more brownish, but it shouldn't be black. Look at the image on the left. Try to smell the fluid. It should not have a burnt smell. All this may seem to be difficult for you, but when you check few similar cars, you'll be able to see the difference. If you discover that transmission fluid is too dirty or black, or smells burnt, avoid buying such a car. Keep in mind, however, that some modern cars simply don't have the transmission dipstick and require special procedure performed in a garage to check the fluid level. In this case, the only way to check it is a test drive.

Automatic transmission test drive

Use more caution when test-driving someone else's vehicle - the mirrors, the driver's seat, etc. may not be adjusted properly for you. First, get use to brake pedal feeling, adjust the mirrors, driver's seat, and learn all the controls of the vehicle. Proceed to drive only when you sure it's safe.
One of the indications of a transmission problem is delayed engagement, when there is a long delay between the moment you shift the shifter into "" (Drive) or "R" (Reverse) and the moment the transmission kicks in. It's easier to note delayed engagement after a car was sitting for a while: With the transmission in "P" (Park) start the engine, and wait until the engine rpm has reduced to normal level (650 - 850 rpm). With your foot holding down the brake pedal, shift to the "" (Drive) position. Almost immediately the transmission should engage - it feels like the car wants to creep forward. This should happen very smoothly, without a strong jerk or clunk. Shift to "N" (Neutral), and the transmission should disengage. Now, still holding the brakes, shift to the "R" (Reverse) position. Again, the transmission kicks in almost immediately - you will feel the car wants to creep backward. This also should be very smooth, without a jerk or clunk. Now, still holding the brake pedal down, try to shift from D to R and back. There should be no strong jerk or clunk. If there is a notable long delay (more than 1 seconds) between the moment you shift and the moment the transmission kicks in, such a transmission might be either too worn or has some problem, avoid this car. If you feel a strong jerk or clunk while shifting, the car may have a transmission problem, avoid such a car. Now it's time to test drive the car.

With the shifter in "" (Drive) position drive gently, with smooth and gradual acceleration. Until the vehicle reaches a speed of 30-37 mph (50-60 km/h) or you should feel the gears shifting at least twice (from first to second, and from second to third gear). All shifts should be done very smoothly, without jerks or slipping. You should be able to feel when the transmission shifts by the slight change in the engine tone or change in engine rpm. If the transmission is extremely worn it may shift with quite a strong jerk, shudder or a delay (especially from first to second gear). Driving at a speed of 25-30 mph (40-50 km/h) if you press down the accelerator pedal for a few seconds, you should feel downshifting to the lower gear, if the automatic transmission works properly.

The next step: check overdrive.

While driving at 60-70 km/h or 35-45 mph on a level road, without using the accelerator, switch overdrive ON. You should feel an upshifting to the next speed. Switch it to "OFF," and you should feel a downshifting. Another thing that may indicate the transmission problem is the slipping. When the transmission is excessively worn it may slip - which means you press the accelerator, the engine rpm increases but the speed remains the same. If during the drive test you feel any problem such as transmission seems to slipping or shifts with a jerk or shudder or if the transmission got stuck in some gear, or has trouble shifting into a particular gear (for example, from second to third), avoid buying such a car. Test-drive the car as long as possible. Often the transmission may work well when it's cold but when it's warmed up it starts giving troubles or visa versa. So, it's better to spend more time checking the transmission than later fixing it endlessly. Normally there should be no shudder, no noises or any kind of strong jerks at any speed and at any engine temperatures while any shifting. If the salesperson tells you that the jerks or shudder or any other abnormal transmission behavior is "normal" for this car or it's just because the car is cold or anything alike, don't trust them. If the "check engine" and/or a flashing overdrive light comes on while driving, have the problem assessed with your mechanic before buying a car.[/size]

Jucol is now Artic_life till almighty moderator lifts the ban.

May be we go ROJA moderator with one tokunbo DIESEL car

@Onwan and George D;

Thanks gentlemen. I(Jucol) was actually banned yesterday after spending much time gathering this information. While trying to modify Part 2. I was accused of posting SPAM. This whole banning issue is dictatorial and stupendous.

Meanwhile all the notifications from Nairaland to me end up in my spam folder, yet neither Yahoo nor Mail.com has banned Nairaland.

I have notified the moderator on that and he or she is aware of my new ID too.

The search for knowledge continues.

Cheers

Banned Jucol

Dear Monitor,

Jucol was banned from posting on this honourable forum while trying to post educative material. Please  go through  the posting that warranted this ban and you will find out that it is no spam. I had to get a new ID to be able to communicate to you. I want my Jucol privileges restored.

Note: All the notifications you send to me end up in my spam folder, yet neither yahoo nor mail.com has banned you.

This is an embarrassment sir.

Thanks for your anticipated cooperation.

Best regards

Banned Jucol now Artic_life ( You are not gonna ban the new me, are you?)