₦airaland Forum

toluxa1:
Ha, wouldn't it have been cheaper for you to enter Sokoto town and do the return. Even if you spend 20k to get to town, you wouldn't have had to pay 144k

You won't understand the context. But the particular context i was in that particular time they sent the message, it'll take me a long journey to get to town, and will cost me approximately 180k for that journey to and fro, minus the stress and what it'll cost me at work. Doing my calculations, paying 144k was a far better option. As in by farrrr.

Jefferyzz:
It's not by display u go take no if controller nah mppt or not, open up d control n see d internals, or look through the vents, avnt see pwm come with rs485 port. The controller get app if u won see colorful designs.

That's cool. Nice one

bassdow:
Finally bought SRNE ML4860 mppt charge controller. Bought it used 60,000 naira + 10,000 naira (transportation).
Hopefully, it matches my taste else I would sell it.

As per the load being only 20amps, I can't use a charge controller without using that load port Ooo.

I built a couple of things that 70% of my loads don't use your regular inverter.

My Core i7, Core i5, and a couple of other PCs all run directly off 12-volts.
Even my 39-inch LED Tv-Monitor, and the 24-inches LCD monitor, all run directly from 12-volts.
Tv Antenna (the rotating type) runs off a USB port (5-volts). I just comot the transformer wey dey inside, attach USB cable to it and voila, e work.
Routers and Modems all run on 12-volts.

All my Fans are the regular DC fans I bought used from Arena Oshodi + a few I bought from Aboki Condemn which I fix and repurposed to permanently run off 12-volts.

Then I got a couple of high powered Desktop PCs I built; those need more than 12-volts but less than 20-volts due to the nature of work they do.

So you see, a lot of my appliances need direct 12-volts and to keep costs low, while supplying clean power devoid of noise, I use that port + should power run low (less likely but possible), it auto shuts down and wouldn't drain the battery bank enough to cause damage.

For all the charge controllers I got, I use all those ports, (including the USB ports for those that's got it); those that could cause an issue (due to high current draw), I built a circuit for them to ensure the power is clean enough. I try not to use inverters as much as possible. Na only chest freezers and occasionally pumping machine need inverter and those got their own separate installation

You find way manage the 240w limit wey the charge controller go give you be that.

Ournolly:
Interesting part of the question.
Did they replace it with version 2 or 3 router?

They gave me version 2.
I was surprised they had that

bassdow:
Abeh make una helep me drop reviews (both negative and Negative) on this brand

SRNE ML4860 60amps MPPT controller.

Intends adding it to my collection.

Its solid. As solid as its felicity cc compatriot.
Only that it supports only 20a for the load output. But that should worry you only if you are trying to connect DC load to it which i guess you won't. You are properly just using it to charge your battery and your inverter is handling AC loads.

You can also trust Growatt charge controllers. I've only seen their 120a sha over 400k.

Felicity, Growatt and this are great choices for external charge controllers.

bassdow:
Hybrids are more efficient but very fragile and even that efficiency is almost equal to the non-Hybrid (transformer based) ones nowadays. The gap used to be wide back in the day .

I often see many here thinking that hybrid means transformerless while non-hybrid means transformer based. That's wrong.

Hybrid only means it does not do only inverting. It also has an extra function, in this case, a charge controller that can accept your pv arrays.

Transformer based are just low frequency inverters while non-transformer are high frequency inverters.

Many transformer based inverters today are hybrids. And they are the most solid in holding heavy inductive loads over high frequency inverters.
You are absolutely right that many can't repair these low frequency inverters. They are the new development in the solar inverting world today, but they have their big disadvantages too which i believe further scientific developments are improving and making better. The fact still remains that they are still fragile as you said compared to versions they are trying to improve on.

bassdow:
but the fact a sticker or painting reads MPPT, doesn't necessarily mean it's a half decent one

Once i see that kind of display layout, even if they type the MPPT in capital pro max letters, i doubt it and run. They are just glorified pwm. I tell people a lot to change them to something better. Even felicity has one of the most solid real MPPTs.

I'm a person that love to use external CC if though i use hybrid inverters. It's for a personal reason many may not agree with. So i always want them to be solid and effective.

Just by the weight, you'll know a 17kwh LFP pack from Valto / valtech contain real high capacity cells.
Forget all these fraud brands that give you 20kwh but it's either only 12-14kwh or grade F cells. I won't mention them but you know them all. You've them in your homes and offices.

Go for these Nigerian assembled batteries.
As long as you are sure the cells are original grade A, the internal wirings are appropriate, the cells have some compression, and the BMS is active balancer (which many big brands don't even have), then go for it. Above all they are cheaper and more market friendly.

God bless Valto and Mrreed plus others doing it in this house.
You all are lighting our Nigerian homes, making sure everyone can afford long lasting solar battery solutions and doing the Lord's work.

One day i go buy motor for una 😁😁😁

brightk:
always plug it to a surge protector... starlink is not different from any other electronics

I had a surge protector when generator boiled by starlink router immediately.
I no know which kain surge protector i go buy for 6k then

georgee:
Power surge issue

Open a ticket from your account profile and explain what happened with pictures of damaged areas of the router or cable

It will be replaced free of charge

Dunno whether it will be replaced with a Gen 2 or 3

I didn't enjoy the free of charge.
They sent me free router and a DHL paperwork to return the spoilt one in 4 days.
Living in sokoto bush where i couldn't do that, they charged me 144k after the four days limit passed.

Challspace:
Older version, Gen 2

Could be the router. It's it showing light under?

FORWARDEVERLY:
Sias by a confused catholic church that has priest that molest little boys both in Nigeria and in Rome...
Eghú iberibe 🙏💯

Individual sins are different from institutionalised sin 😁😁😁.

The Catholic church has never told any person to molest children. People do it coz they are sinful.
Compare that with an institution as the anglican church where they refuse the teachings of Christ and allowed to cancel marriages at will... Where they ordain women which Christ never did... Where they approve homosaxuality as not sinful (approved by the institution oh and not just personal sin) and even let geys and lasbians to become clergy.

So... Type again what you said lemme see.

In the Catholic church there are members who are thieves, geys, criminals etc like in every place. But the difference is that the Catholic institution disapproves of all these immoralities whereas others accept them

Challspace:
My Starlink has decided not to power on today 🥲

Old or new version

The Anglican church is literally a church that left the Catholic church coz their leader wanted to marry a second wife that is forbidden by the church.
The entire church is built on immortality and falsehood. Why do you suddenly expect the church to survive in righteousness? It'll only grow in the immorality it was built on

Chai...

Someone above posted his charity in different zones and called some of donations insignificant.

Omo, and na poor man oh. Person wey never donate anything to his own village dey turn referee on another man's wealth and use of it for charity. God abeg oh.

CuteMaro:
Good observation Chief. The wire in use is a 16mm. The highest I have pulled is about 45amps from using a 1.5hp A.C, my pumping machine is 0.5hp. I set my charging speed to 40amps max.

I don't plan to use my AC with this set up anyways. Just for lights, Tv and Freezer and other light loads.

It's cool then with 16mm. Weldone boss

CuteMaro:
Update from mrreed's battery.

Actual capacity is 320 ah more than the 314 ah quoted.

At that price this is the best deal you can find anywhere.


Thanks to everyone that has contributed one way or another on this forum, I was able to set up my inverter parameters successfully through the knowledge acquired here for free (My installer is more of an old-school guy but did a very neat and impressive job)

What wire size did u use from battery to inverter?
Since you using 24v system it'll be cool you use 2awg size coz of high amps if you one day use a high inductive device on your system like pump or AC or iron. You could draw 80-120a. But if you don't use any of these then 16-25mm 3-4awg that you seem to be using could go.

HeavenlyBang:
There's no usable power above 54.8v anyway, since a 16S Lifepo4 rests at under 54.2v usually. Not sure what the complaint is.

If your battery is full, why would you need it to constantly be charging even when above 54.8v? The moment you load the battery it'll rapidly drop below that 54.8v and charging begins again.

You can safely keep LFP floating at 56v sef. That's not too high for safe floating. 56.4v upwards is what i personally avoid (that's just me).
Your LFPs rest at 54.2v with load and no charge current? Wow. All the LFP i see, with load, they rest at about 53.1v and they stay there for a long straight curve. Cworth rests at 52.9v sef which makes me suspect their cells.

So you saying yours rest at 54.2v or 27.1v or 13.55v? Wow

Most infections enter via the pores of your skin and not through the urinal tract.
A little sore or cut can give you an infection from an infected person.

That's why it is said that those who don't shave have less chance of infection compared to those with clean shaves.

That jbond that brought negative energy in here just made me get banned.
I had to say my mind and the platform banned me. It's good he didn't get to see it though.

We don't need such negative energy here

ibietela2:
Lol… except maybe by the window

I was giving him a sarcastic answer. Even buy window it won't work. I wonder how he wants to get sky from inside his house

ijeezlux:
I live in the ground floor of a one storey building, and it's not possible to mount starlink mini on the roof cos of landlord wahala. Is it possible to use starlink mini inside my house?

If inside your house somehow has direct view to the skies without obstruction, why not, you can use it in the house.

Someone that was already married to bench.
This is his second wife

ijeezlux:
Please who can recommend a good powerbank that can power starlink mini for up to 8hrs. Will be very grateful. I need an answer. God bless you

All those 2000w power station can

Juror:
Check your setting [37], what value do you have there ?

This did it oh!
I checked and it was at 52v. The setting option says once the battery is tagged full according to settings, the inverter will stop charging the battery till the battery discharges and gets below a particular voltage point (which was set to 52.0v).
Why will SRNE have such unnecessary complications?
Any way, i set it to 54.8v which unfortunately is the highest it can set to. A minute or so after i applied the setting, for the first time ever the inverter started charging the battery in front of me. The "full" icon disappeared.

What this means is that, the inverter will now charge my battery to 56.0v (charge and float voltage i set it to) and then stop charging and will discharge the battery to 54.8v before picking up again to charge till 56.0v. What a pain? What now happens to the float setting that is at 56.0v? Its now useless?

The below image also shows that when it finally started charging, 3kw is coming from Sun, but only 24A is charging the battery which is around 1300w. Where did other power go to?

Why did people rate SRNE as top inverter when it has all these confusion in it?
Felicity is far better and straight forward than this SRNE.

Juror:
Check your setting [37], what value do you have there ?

Will check that tomorrow. I'm reading from the manual and that's a possible issue. Only that it's setting ranges from 44v-54v. Why will a full level stop at 54 which is low?

Will check tomorrow sha

Mrreed:
Can you check the individual voltage of the cells in your battery bank ? One of the cells getting to 3.65v before the others wil also stop charging

Wooo! That's a possibility. Will check that Bro

olopan:
Do a complete system reset to reboot your new setting with startup and see if the battery will accept the charge. Also to note is that if your current is high, it may be rejected, so watch out for that too.

Ahh. Wahala !
If current was high why did the inverter accept the panels without error msg? All these top brands and their wahala. I could've been very happy with my felicity oh.

Thanks a lot for the ideas. Will try tomorrow when next sun comes up

Hi guys!

This SRNE 10kva inverter has kept my battery charge stuck at 53.2v. That's far from full. There are 6kwh solar panels connected to it. But right now in hot sun, only the sun is carrying the load of the building (as set by user), and battery isn't discharging as we can see on the inverter.

My first guess was the float was set to 53.2v and that's why its like this.

Entering the settings, battery type is set to Li4. I changed it to USER and set bulk and float to 56.0v (thats my personal setting for all my LFP). Yet, nothing changed. Inverter still only getting the sun it needs to run the house and not charging the battery to set 56.0v.

Settings is such that only solar panels runs all loads.
Charging source is set to solar too. Though there's NEPA, the inverter is set to ignore it.

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?

Battery is cworth 20kwh.

Need help for who understands this SRNE behavior

georgee:
I don't understand.

57K*12= 684K
My card detail is on my starlink profile and gets debited monthly.. I don't need to do anything. Starlink does the rest

So, kindly explain to me how 57K monthly is cheaper than 684K/year asides time value of money and the stress you go through when starlink debits your card monthly

My point exactly is that paying 57k monthly will be costlier than paying a single fee for a month.

georgee:
Who are we

If dem do one year sub at 620k, you no go prefer am over paying monthly?

Yearly is often cheaper.