Donald3d's Posts
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JayJ27:Yes it does . The suspension components are designed to work best with a specific tyre size , if you use one that is smaller or larger than the recommended size, the suspension components won't perform optimally. For example, if you try to wear a shoe that's larger than your leg, you won't be able to walk well in it. It's not a perfect analogy, but it gives you an idea of what I am trying to say. |
flootintin:Did you check the oil with the car off AFTER, you cycled through the gears or less than 60 seconds after a drive , on a completely flat ground ?, A very small incline on the ground would give a false reading , the engine should also NOT be running. Kindly confirm which of the solenoid you tested, the external one you pictured or the internal one ? . Before you replace the solenoid, I would suggest you still check your wiring, its possible there is a short to ground somewhere that's frying the solenoid you said you have replaced multiple times, solenoids don't fail that quickly. 83-14 error code points to either a bad connection between the VSA modulator-control connector and the first connector/"plug" for your ECU , bad wiring or bad ECU I would suggest you check the connectors first. I have worked on a diagnosis where an electrical problem caused the pins of the ECU and some other connectors to overheat and there was physical melting marks on the connectors. If the burnt plastic gets into the pins, it could be preventing proper connection . You need to do full electrical diagnosis before you replace any solenoid, there appears to be an electrical problem as you have rightly stated. If wiring issues are ruled out , it means one or more drivers for your transmission in the ECU is damaged, and you might need to replace the ECU, but this should be a last resort, wiring and connector issues need to be checked first. |
JayJ27:On your driver door, there is a printed recommended tyre size. Are you using a tyre size that is bigger than what is printed ? |
Most good mid-range/semi-pro scan tools can do this. Do you have a scan tool ? Watch videos on youtube, its very easy |
Iyenogie30:I have one for sale https://www.nairaland.com/3589456/house-clearance-sales-come-here/7998#140543176 |
Donald3d:Shoes still available . All four shoes going for 320k , all worth about 500k, its a significant discount. You can buy one or more if you don't want to buy all.
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luvinhubby:Thank you. ![]() |
Have you scanned the car ? There are many possible issues Something as simple as a crankshaft position sensor could cause some of the issues you are experiencing Get a cheap scanner and scan the vehicle and share the codes. |
Donald3d:319 Liters Inverter Freezer available. Price :350k
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Donald3d:LG 65 inch smart TV available SOLD
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Hustlersdiary:Before you buy injectors , get someone qualified to actually diagnose the car. It could be the MAF sensor, it could be a wiring issue. I diagnosed a car recently, with P0172 that was hard to figure out . The problem ended up being a voltage drop at the ECU for the MAF negative pin . MAF, MAP, air fuel ratio sensors( primary o2 sensor ) work hand in hand to determine the air fuel ratio and injector pulse width, there are other things , but these are the primary ones . If one of them is getting the wrong signal, the ECU would get confused and be on the safe side and run rich to protect the engine. In this particular case the ECU was seeing that a high volume of air was passing through the MAF, so the ECU was adding more fuel to get the ideal air fuel ratio of 14:7 ... The MAF circuit was lying to the ECU... Before you change any part do a proper diagnosis , also share freeze frame data, it can contain an abnormality that would help in pointing you in the right direction. |
JayJ27:Are you using the correct Honda recommended tyre sizes on your car ? |
flootintin:Just seeing this, if not I would have addressed it in my reply above. You probably have a short to ground(wiring issue as you have rightly stated), that fries the solenoid over a period of time. But even at that , if this solenoid fails you should get something like P0746, do you have record of codes at the point when the solenoid is no more clicking ? Can you also share freeze frame data , it can give us some more information on whats going on. Excessive heat and very bad oil can also damage the solenoid, check my questions in my previous reply too. |
flootintin:Ah, this isn't the solenoid for the code. What you have pictured is Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid (I believe that is A, the dual one is B & C , since its 4 cylinder ), its different from the shift solenoid which is inside a casing that chillex8 posted above, (which the code points to) The internal solenoids rarely go bad. You might have a wiring problem, somewhere in between the solenoid and the ECU, as far as I know with all the diagnosis I have done, and the wiring diagram for 7th gen accord, yours is 8th gen, its most likely similar , and there is no fuse between it and the ECU . One part you may be missing is, have you checked if your transmission oil is at the right level ? If it is , you might want to drain the transmission oil and check it , is it black (bad), is it thick brown/dark brown (excess clutch wear, clutch material might be blocking the solenoid) , is it pink with yoghurt consistency (this means coolant has mixed in, also bad), are there metal particles in it or does the oil look shiny like there are suspended metals in it, or metals at the bottom of the container you used to drain it.... if there is , something might be broken internally . You want to see light red, or slightly dark red. Before you drain the entire transmission oil , you can drain a very small sample first, because original transmission oil is expensive . Anything less than 75k for 4-5 liters is most likely counterfeit . Only use honda recommended transmission oil , or original valvoline maxlife that lists DW-1 on its details. Sorry for the long rant just trying to share my experience. Honda can give weird transmission codes, and people get confused, sometimes you just need to do 1-2 transmission oil changes depending on how bad the oil looks. However this should be your order of diagnosis, 1. Find the wiring diagram for your car and the connection between the solenoid and the ECU, to know which connector and which specific pin, do a continuity test between the wire of that solenoid and the ECU pin. Please be very careful, if you bridge the wrong pins you can fry your ECU. To be safe, unplug the battery completely , put the car key in on position, and maybe turn on your headlights to drain any residual power from the ECU , before you start your tests, that way if two wires that are not supposed to touch come in contact, nothing gets damaged. In my experience, its possible your wiring is fine and you just have a slack pin for this particular solenoid, at the connector that plugs into the ECU . But still diagnose, because the wire isn't just a straight wire from the solenoid to the ECU, there is at least one junction I know of. I don't think you have a bad ground , because if you do, you would most likely have other transmission codes. Also check if there is oil and dirt inside the connector at the transmission, check for slack pin there too. 2. If the wiring is fine, you would need to test the solenoid itself , I don't know how experienced you are with electrical testing , or if your scan tool is advanced enough, it would have the feature to actuate the solenoid and you listen for click. If your scan tool does not have the feature , you would have to manually test it. If you are not electrically inclined or mechanically inclined I would recommend you watch Youtube videos on this, or get someone who knows what they are doing to do the test 3. If all else fails including changing the solenoid then you try to change the transmission oil , and check the oil as i described above . I also forgot to ask , if you clear the code and you start the engine when its cold, as you are stationary , shift through all the gears multiple times while your hand brake is up and while pressing the brake pedal down. Cycle through all gears from P,R,N, D,3,2,1 , and back up again like five times , in each position wait like 3 seconds . Does the code come back without you even moving at all ? Does the limp mode and the code only trigger after driving for a while ? .... If this is the case, its most likely one of these; you have bad oil, clogged filter, or the solenoid is failing. Because as the transmission oil heats up the resistance of the solenoid increases and it makes it harder for the ECU to command it ON, because at various shift points, it sends a specific current to it . If that current can't overcome the resistance, it stays off. Another question: has the cooling line between the transmission and the radiator been bypassed ? Sorry if my thoughts, grammar and tips are not coherent, I was typing it as things were coming to mind based on my experience. |
flootintin:What car is it ? Model and year ? It's probably the wiring, look for the workshop manual for your car and trace the circuit from the solenoid to the ECU. Do voltage test, voltage drop test, continuity test(be careful with continuity test, be sure you know what you are doing so you don't fry your ECU).. Without the car's workshop manual it's hard to diagnose except you are very very experienced with that particular car. The manual is like a map of the entire car, it gives you step by step details on diagnosis. I |
Donald3d:LG 32 Inch 4K UHD UltraFine™ Ergo Monitor With HDR10, Still available. New, in the box 950k, worth 1.2M. Imported personally from LG USA
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Techie25:Let's talk via Whats--app. Number in my signature . |
LG TV NanoCell 65 Inch NANO77 4K Smart TV AI ThinQ Magic Remote WebOS ( Very Fairly Used, Practically new) - 750k Bought personally from Fuoani SOLD
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Still available at a discounted price . |
Donald3d:Available.
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oroje1:Scan the vehicle, its also very possible a ground wire was disconnected and not reinstalled. As someone said above it could also be a idle relearn issue (But this often corrects itself after driving for a while). I am leaning more towards a pulled vacuum hose , or a bad /detached ground somewhere . You need someone qualified to diagnose, I can help. Are you in Lagos ? |
Original shoes available, bought from official stores. Personal items, all new never worn . Not a shoe vendor. 1. REEBOK LIQUIFECT (US 12 / EUR 45.5 / UK 11) 2. Adidas Runfalcon 2.0 (US 11 1/2 / EUR 46 / UK 11 ) 3. Adidas Lite Racer 3.0 (US 12 / EUR 46 2/3 / UK 11 1/2 ) 4. Adidas VS PACE White - Size 10 ( 44 2/3 ) , would fit people who wear 45 too All going for 320k , all worth about 500k, its a significant discount. You can buy one if you don't want all. Videos of the shoes also available.
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Haier thermocool inverter freezer 319 liters - 350k
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oroje1:What is the vehicle make, year and model ?? |
Pearl1910:No, its sold. |
Solar panel . 4 units of 350 Watts, Brand: Bestcom Type: Mono crystalline All going for 150k SOLD
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Donald3d:Sketchers is gone, the others are still available.
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Original shoes available. Personal items, all new never worn . Not a shoe vendor. 1. REEBOK LIQUIFECT (US 12 / EUR 45.5 / UK 11) 2. Adidas Runfalcon 2.0 (US 11 1/2 / EUR 46 / UK 11 ) 3. Adidas Lite Racer 3.0 (US 12 / EUR 46 2/3 / UK 11 1/2 ) 4. Adidas VS PACE White - Size 10 ( 44 2/3 ) , would fit people who wear 45 too All going for 320k , all worth about 500k You can buy one if you don't want all.
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Donald3d:Sketchers has been sold, the others are still available. |
Donald3d:Original shoes available.
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Donald3d:AC and DInning Sold, remaning items still available. ---
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