₦airaland Forum

isangjohnson:
How much are you selling the 5kva Ivem each?

590k (Slightly negotiable if getting both)

justcallmenuel:
[b][/b]STEADY SHIPPING

1pcs of 17.5kwh 48v felicity lithium battery
2pcs of 5kva 48v felicity hybrid inverter

Ready for delivery to ABUJA… Thank you Mr Timi for the patronage, God bless you..

Call/whatsapp me on 08168986461 to order yours today..

We deliver nationwide!!!

Thanks boss. Package received.
2 pieces of Felicity 5kva48v IVEM inverter available in Abj for quick sale.
Reason for sale: Client is getting a bigger sized inverter
Whatsapp 0703five7123eight8

dollarnaira:
Cut into bus bars

Oh I get

dollarnaira:
You didn't get me well.
Bms types optional, not bms optional. Bsms Bluetooth and without; 100A bms on a 100a battery is a waste to me.
There is a short length original flat copper not up to 50cm sold for close to 10k. I don't generalize I say what works and still working for me. I love alternatives rather than depending on common materials that can be easily faked. But both of us know that 1C is for few seconds. Some won't even smell 0.5C as we all run different loads. Why do most cases have vents? My solar panel cables is not the regular cable everyone goes for...well, thats private. It handles close to 30a without warning up. I am not the conventional person I go for unconventional materials that work. Lastly, this forum is for those with common sense - you pick, discard, use or reuse information online. Life no suppose hard.

What does the copper do?

twinskenny:
Today installations in ibadan

3kw inverter
2 no of tubular battery
4 panels

All setup

Bros smile na. Do u do Abuja?

isangjohnson:
Once you get the cells with the free bus bars and a bms (there are cheaper ones), then your battery pack is ready for use.
Some of us do help our customers to top balance the cells before sending to them.
Compression is optional. It's very necessary for those that are coupling cells for sale.
1. It makes the cells secure by being tight during transit.
2. It takes care of the normal expansion that occurs between low soc and high soc which Eve says is about 0.5mm per cell.
For diy guys with a proper system design that are not pushing the cells anywhere near what an Ev system would, then they have nothing to worry about compression.
Their concern is Calendar aging of the cells only.

Thanks Chief

dollarnaira:
Container box is not a must.
Bms types optional
How much is bus bars, u can even fabricate yours. Rest not important. Do you use LifePO4?

Be like u wan fight me with this ur question. Just making my point. To each man his own. If u av kids around, then a box is a must unless its in an area they cant access. And yes I use LiPO4 and its bin sweet. Fabricated my box as I got just the coupled cells wit bms from oga Valto here 😁

dollarnaira:
Some persons will still buy 220a tubular(DOD 110a) with pampering for 280k instead of grade B 130a LifePO4 for 260k without pampering.

This isnt the complete price. U still av to get BMS, container/box, battery busbars, ?threaded rods and wood too. That's close to extra 70k upwards

.

Scientheosopher:
Shouldn't it be 1.2kWh?
#Congrats.

Its actually a 12.8v100ah battery

Honest question though, Why the client preference for tubular instead of lithium?

twinskenny:
Installed !!!

10kw SRNE inverter plus 10Kw SRNE inverter parallel!

12 no of tubular batteries ( client choice )

24 no of 550watts panels


Off grid

08035153923
08051355133

easyyoke:
Experts in the house, If a solar charge controller has a maximum Voltage VOC input of 108v(Even though the spec document further says MPPT Voltage Range = 30-95VDC). What is the best configuration for me to connect 6 identical solar panels with each panels having the following specs. Voc = 39.38V and Isc 13.86A into the charge controller without burning the controller.

Ur battery bank size and volt configuration would help give an apt answer

Just got to know about DC arc and the fire risk attached to it. Pls can someone explain in simple terms here. Google aint doing good justice to it

Ijeoma660:
I think it's generic. Because the web and mobile interface are different hosts and different OEM from inverter make

Pls wud love a picture and where u got it?

Ijeoma660:
I have added another 5kwh to my setup to enable ne have 1 day autonomy. I alao have a timer switch for my freezer. Previously when I had only 5kwh battery installed It switches on the freezer by

On 8.30am and
Off 5.30pm

Based on this arrangement by morning my battery is about 35% (5kwh)

But after adding another 5kWh making a total of 10kWh battery. I did a calculation and arrived at the on/off times for the freezer

On 6am and
Off 11pm

By morning my battery's percentage is at +/- 60% (10kWh)

If it happens to be a cloudy weather I cam go on without the need for grid dependency.

This way i don't worry anyone with switching off the lights when not in use etc...

Cost of equipment so far
Inverter 423k
LFPB 5kWh 1.350m
LFPB 5kWh 1.071m
PV array 18nos x 300Wp 480k. (warehouse clearance sale)
Timer switch 12k
WiFi module for online control and monitor 51k

Load on the system
1. TVs 2nos (65 and 47inch
2. Fans 5nos
3. Microwave
4. Freezer 250L
5 Bedside fridge
6. Several LED Light
7. Home entertainment
8. Laptop etc.


Its amazing I have bo idea whether there is NEPA light or not.

Does ur wifi module work for all types of inverter or its specific to urs?

TechGeek777:
@isangjohnson & @Dam5reey1, do you people have personal issues with each other?

Abeg make una take am easy oh, guys.

Oginidi?

Lolz, this is isangjohnson's time. Danfreey also had his day in the sun with him so this was not unexpected. They are both good with each other seeing the end of the last discussion they had.
Engagements like this are good for DIY ppl to increase knowledge and to prevent scams to

Indaboskikoboko:
Csat africa p-2000 inverter, 60a pwm solar charge controller (no get name ), wires 10mm

Wont be surprised if the issue is how ur panels are connected. If they were all parallelled with no shadowing or shades, u sud be able to charge ur battery full unless there's load running at the same time

Indaboskikoboko:
Hi guys. I made a setup of 1 220ah battery and 4 180w batteries to atleast power my bulbs, fan and charge the phone a few times 24/7.

Since it is rainy season, there are some days that the battery doesn't get fully charged and I thought is to be expected. But when there is sun the battery us full within a few hours of sunlight.
Today has been been cloudy for most of the day. I took a nap this evening and woke up sweating, just for me to go and find out my battery has drained.

My question is, is it normal for this type of situation to happen during days with low sunlight? Asking because I specifically installed 4 panels thinking they could be enough to get some juice for me during days like this.

Let me know what you think. Tips and advices are welcome too

You would have to give more clarification than this. U didnt mention what type and specs of charge controller? How did u connect the panels? Wiring size? Inverter u are also using?

Valto:
will be building soon a 12v 100ah lithium battery , with 500w pure sine wave inverter, 20A charger and 60A PWM CC, all inbuilt. with automatic changeover to utility source, once utility becomes available.

I dey ur whatsapp..

DadojoReloaded:
Please how do I reset it? It has something like a reset key at the top, but that's not working. It doesn't take charge and it doesn't output any volt as well. Everything is just blank.

Have u tried disconnecting the charge controller/inverter and then switching on the inverter?

jonescosmos:
> No, a breaker will not prevent this in-rush current.
> System usage sometimes determines if there would be a disconnect between Inverter and Battery. Someone might not disconnect the battery from the inverter but where the battery mostly discharges below shutdown voltage and inverter trips off, that system is most likely to experience in-rush current when it wakes up if charging source is applied.

When your BMS shuts off because of battery low voltage cut-off, when the battery wakes up there would be an in-rush current if the BMS is not equipped with this resistor.

> Always switch both Inverter and Battery Off when going away.

For DIYers: To retrofit an in-rush resistor into your batter, you would need a Relay Delay Timer or a manual transfer switch which will first contact sends power to the resistor and second contact sends power the to inverter.

For those using factory built batteries with proprietary BMS, pay attention to the moment you turn on your battery, you will hear a click, that is the Relay Delay Timer which operates the resistor. It will first send the power to the resistor for a preset number of seconds (usually 2secs) using the delay timer circuit, and after the 2 seconds, it transfers the power to the output terminal which goes to your inverter.
I have attached diagrams illustrating this process.

Thanks for the detailed explanation sir. I no mind make u dey mentor me sir as ur depth of knowledge is one I'd love to tap just the surface from 😁😁😁

jonescosmos:
Don't waste your money going to buy another Inverter. The problem is that the IN-RUSH Battery Current damaged the DC Bus Gates of your inverter which is likely to continue even if you buy another Inverter. That spark your noticed was supposed to be absorbed or suppressed by the Pre-Charge Resistor first and softly starts the Inverter LV DC Bus Circuit.

Newer Cworth Batteries has an RJ45 type Pre-Charge Resistor that you can plug into the RJ45 Port to limit the In rush current. Some other Lithium Batteries has the DIP Switch type of this Resistor that you can toggle to on and off.

If your Battery has an RJ45 Port, I would suggest you approach Cworth Service center to grab this Resistor. If your battery does not have an RJ45 Port ask them for a Pre-Charge Resistor or you can buy one to retrofit in your battery.

Every Installer, DIYer, etc is supposed to have this Resistor because some Warrantees does not cover damages caused by In-Rush Current. Take note.

You can google how to protect your Inverter from in-rush current for more info.

Apt as always. Thank you for helping some of us learn.
So bin reading about the 'in rush current' and said to occur when trying to connect the inverter to battery majorly. Also common with inverter equal/above 2000w. Wudnt a breaker btw both inverter and battery prevent such? Besides if one isnt planning to be connecting and disconnecting the battery/inverter, what now wud be the use of the resistor?
Then is it right to switch off the LiPO4 battery then inverter when going away as i read it cud also contribute to the 'in rush current' seeing as certain of the inverter capacitors responsible for start up may get drained/discharged while off? Or one sud just switch of the inverter and leave the battery on
Thank you for ur apt response in advance boss

Ooreofegrace:
Oga boss na money oo.. You gat to help customer manage what they have to achieve what they need..what he has on ground is 200w 12v panel x2 100ah block battery 60a pwm 12v serchet inverter pure sine wave that all.. There is plan to upgrade to 12v 100ah lifepo battery in future. So he wanna get cc mppt now then battery later...

Telling him to buy a 20amp mppt isnt helping the customer too. The least I'd recommend is a 40amp mppt or better still get the powmr pwm 60/80amps which has lithium charging abilities and is cheaper. U can check jumia for it

Ooreofegrace:
Good day my good ppl.. Kindly advise, which should i get out of the 2..need something that work well and also support lifepo4 battery as well..cause the guy plan to get lifepo4 later.. can see on the spec it does support it... But i need you guys option on which to go for.....Thanks.

Start by telling is what ur existing setup is? Why do u want to do a 20a charger when there are higher specs?

HeavenlyBang:
Obviously, considering it's literally twice the capacity lol.

Which was what I was implying with my initial statement.

Disco01:
Please capacity of solar panels required and the charge controller?

Why dont u get an installer and av him give u quote unless you are market savvy. Get a 60amp or preferably 80amp solar charge controller, panels from verified sellers here (2 450/550w panel depending on ur charge controller VOC). A 4mm solar cable wud do since u doing series, dc breaker and spd, combiner box, aluminum profile, nails, bolts/nut and washer, flashband, nails to mention a few.
NB: Does ur inverter av a lithium charging profile? If not, u may be totally dependent on solar for charging

HeavenlyBang:
Don't think that's true either. Prices are identical, maybe just 20-30% more expensive for 48v.

Its more than that ooo. A 48v100ah wud be like extra 80 to 100% of a 24v100ah battery

SEOSpecialist:
Experts in the house, kindly proffer your advice concerning my inverter setup.

I have a 3.5kva SMK Inverter with two pieces of Cworth Energy 2.5kw Lithium 24V batteries (as seen below) and four 380w PV panels. On Wednesday afternoon, the inverter let out two loud sparks and started displaying error code 09 (this would be the second time within three months). A technician suggested that the inverter may not be compatible with the lithium batteries and suggested I replace it with a 3kva Felicity
brand.

Does anyone have an idea on which inverter brand will be most compatible with the batteries?

Thank you.

What does error code 9 mean from the manual?

HeavenlyBang:
Eh, how?

Meant price wise. Edited already boss

LaMujer:
150k


My best friend's father is the one selling. It's not being used, and from what pictures I took yesterday on seeing it, I understood why it's going for such price

I won't choose any of the above if I had a choice. They are transformer based which means high idle current use and also the need to get an external charge controller for solar. If i had a gun to my head though, I'd take the 3.5kva48v sha rather than the 5kva24v system cos of efficiency though means getting a 48v system which is almost double a 24v battery system price