The price difference btw tubular and lithium is getting closer esp if u patronize ppl here who couple such as Valto and isangjohnson. You also get longer cycles with lithium than tubular so dont be pennywise
LaMujer: Oh yes, I know lithium or lifepo is the best battery bet I can use. But I also know I can't afford it right now. I would have to make do with the less expensive tubular ones
Which do you advise I buy? I don't have much load, nor do I intend to use any heavy load on it besides basic appliances vis a vis fan, phones, laptop and TV occasionally.
The 3.5kva is a Cruze sine wave, while the 5kva is a stabimatic PSW.
I'm just starting my entry into renewable energy, and although I've read a lot, I haven't practiced anything
I'm also very funds cautious, as the funds no dey ground. Kindly advise
bbally: You might need to take the inverter to their service center. If you can remember, I had something like the your issue with my SMS inverter which I thought was acting funny due to partial/voltage leakage from my negative cable from the panel but apparently after I solved the cable issue, the inverter returned to same issue after some days so I ended taking it their office which they worked on. When it was opened, it was discovered that some varistors was burnt which they changed and mppt card program and it's been working fine since last week Thursday. Mppt issue was having 270v from panels but inverter seeing 25v. The pictures shows the interface before and after repair
Can u drop ur digits pls or contact me on Whatsapp, I'd like to discuss somethings abt this our inverter. Nos is 070 three 571two388
RickyM: Yes,It’s the highest in its vicinity. Non at the moment, the first system that was installed for me was only with circuit breaker and that’s all. By earthed do you mean thunder arrestor? If so, NO. If you’re referring to the normal house earthing, people I met here claimed it’s bad already.
Start with the basics. Get ur apartment or the inverter earthed. Get breakers and SPDs for both AC and DC side of ur Inverter/charge controller. This are more important and cheaper than getting a thunder arrestor.
RickyM: Hello to the great people of Nairaland! This thunder issue is already messing with my mental state and it’s kind of making me wonder if God is punishing me somehow Just earlier this year my hybrid inverter got fried and then I decided to get a satchet inverter from one of the seller on here and the inverter been working perfectly fine carrying my two freezers and normal lighting points and charging of my devices. Went to school yesterday to write an exam and then it started raining, sure can’t run out of examination hall to come home to turn off my system so along the way the thunder strike again and on getting home I realize the inverter isn’t supplying anymore. Once again I’m without power supply and I have to go to charging stations to have my phone charged. Please somebody save my dying soul because I’m sad Could it be because the house I live in is a storey building? Even my guy without thunder arrestor isn’t affected, why always me? I already bought all the materials for thunder arrestor installation. I’m afraid more than ever do buy a normal inverter again because it’s never easy losing money!
Is ur building the highest in its vicinity? What protective devices do you have for ur system? Is ur building earthed too?
Dam5reey: This will work as a PWM charging, nothing much to expect. it has an LFP profile so you can configure it to charge based on 2 two-stage LFP CC/CV charging methods.
Just want something as back up if the day ever comes that my hybrid inverter decides to act up as I already av a back up inverter
bigrovar: Please don't go broke trying to get sub 10 ohms earth resistance. For a TT system at least going by UK electric code for residential systems. (We use TT earthing system in Nigeria)
Minium theoretical earth electrode resistance is actually 1666 Ohms. Now that is theoretical. In practice anything below 200 ohms is considered ok but below 100 ohms is recommended.
10 ohms and below are requirement for industrial applications and power equipments line transformers, power substations, Network Masts etc.
They are not a requirement for home earthing of electrical components. To get anything below 10 ohms for domestic earth rod would be very expensive.
The important thing to note in all of this is that. Homes are required to use RCDs to compliment a domestically installed earthing system.
This helps to provide protection in place of a very low earth electrode set out to provide ie trip a breaker in the case of an earth fault. Since 100 ohms earth rod is incapable of tripping a breaker. An RCD does that job
If your RCD trips then that is a bigger issue with your electrical connection which needs to be fixed and not a or problem with your earthing.
Secondly lots of people including me use to go all in on likes of bentonite and GEMs. Until I realize just drilling your earth rod into the ground should be sufficient..
See compacted earth and length of earth rod matters more than some of these Earthing materials. From all the literature I have read on the issue, getting an 8 foot earth rod (copper bonded is fine and stronger than all copper earth rod which can be quite brittle)
Just drilling your earth rod on undisturbed compacted soil ensures the earth is fine. At least you can carry out soil resistant before you start. If you live in a place of high soil resistant or rocky place then you can consider an eathing enhancer just note that most of the GEMS currently in the market are fakes / immitation. I spoke to the authorized distributor for GEMs and he said he doesn't stock them any more due to high dollar rates. Last one he sold went for 80k for 12.5kg bag.
Bentonite is a good alternative earth rod backfill but again I am not sure on the quality product we have in the market.
Bentonite also tend to expand and crack when dry this allows air bubbles which means some part of your earth rod losses contact with the earth if encased in bentonite.
Most people in the west just put the ground rod directly into the ground (without digging a hole) The idea is digging a hole reduces the compactness of the soil, a soil disturbed and backfilled might take 20 years to compact again. Soil compactness is required to ensure the rod maintains contact with the soil around it and contact is not lost if the soil settles.
I go with the school of thought that believe that if you can drive a long enough earth rod like 8ft and above you should be fine without any extra hole digging.
When considered the minimum recommended earth resistance is sub 100ohms having a good earthing becomes quite inexpensive and easy to do without delving into sneak oil or spending tons of money.
Earthing is just one part of protection system. You still need to ensure earth neutral bonding is available in your system (by doing an impudence test) hopefully earthing of your grid transformer is done properly.
And if you are on inverter ensure your inverter has a MEN rely when operating in island mode.
Also your RCD.. if you get a lot of nuisance trip consider a 300mA RCD for the whole house just make sure the trip time is below 50ms.
Also take time to identify why your RCD is tripping.
This is my humble take on this. Remember I am not a qualified electrician so please feel free to take whatever I say with a pinch of salt.
Just saw this RCD, looks like what installers use as breaker between high voltage inverter and battery
Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..
Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.
Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).
Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.
Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm
And the DC bulb for night useage..
Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..
What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?
Thanks all.
What type of inverter are u using and the nos/type of panels u used? Suspecting sms though. How are u sure they are not putting extra loads and not mentioning it. Its either that or the batteries aren't charging well sha
Hello house. Kinda need ur advice here. I av a friend who I'm sure wud be reading this. Had this old sch 5kva48v felicity inverter with VOC of 145v with 9 pcs of 270w panel connected 3s3p. He later added 2 625w panels which were joined in series and then connected in parallel to the previous 9panels. Now he's gotten a 10kva sms inverter with max voc of 500v and he wants to series all the panels together. What are the possible pros and cons? Not comfortable with the arrangement but he feels it would work. Thanks in advance Panel specs: 625w VOC 56.56 ISC 13.6 VMP 47.93 IMP 13.05 270w VOC 37.44 ISC 9.09 VMP 31.2 IMP 8.65
noel76: Good morning house, please i need inverter expert help in here, i have an eco solar 3.5kva 48v inverter, 3 days ago during the rain d light went off and refused to stay on, it always trip off went d inverter is powered on, and d display is showing "fuse trip" how do i go about it? D inverter uses 4 batteries and 8 solar panels
You most likely av a fuse cut. If savvy, open the fuse box to confirm if its internal wire is cut. If yes, just get exact same fuse and plug back in
Dam5reey: It is a free world, I search for the best deals for clients Powmr is the same as Sako,SMS or Welion. Anyone that is available works. See attached, an only casing differs
Just pulling ur legs boss. You are doing well sir. In the end, doing what's best for ur clients is what set one apart as a good installer
Peterlove11: I think what mostly determines pv array needed is your daily energy consumption......I don't see someone needing more than 6kw pv panels if your average daily energy consumption is 10kwh. Even 4.5kw pv is ok. I might be wrong
I think it depends on size of battery, ow fast he wants it charged and then weather condition.
Anyway, I'd say a 10kwh battery should be just about enough. Maybe 15kwh if finances allow, though he'd probably need to increase his pv array to around 6kw.
As na only battery e wan upgrade.... 5 to 10 wud suffice. Anything above that and he has to also add to his existing panels
25kw lohun lohun... You are not nice sir 🤣🤣🤣. Based on his existing set up plus coming from 4 tubular batteries. A 5 to 10kwh battery sud suffice for him since he wasn't complaining of his previous battery setup.
adewasco2k: Please i need recommendation for a solar hydrid inverter (48v 5 to 8kva) for about 800K 1. Sako 2. Growatt 3. Welion 4. Deye (this might be above my budget except i know exactly why this is the best option then i can up the budget) 5. any recommended brand?
Dam5reey: Are you using new panels now? Norminal voltage of Inverter does not affect your charging rates. Panel Orientation, charging voltage, and Panel efficiency does..
someone using 4 units of 550w panels got 2KW.. even when nominal says 240V
someone using 4 units of 410w panel 1.64KW panels got 1.47KW at 111V even when nominal says 240V
Yeah i understand you. Just needing reassurance that adding new panels would increase my charging current rather than just buying an external CC to use with my existing panels for better charging
Satellite TV Technology › Re: Solar Energy, A Complement To FTA by Drgreatone: 9:15am On Jul 05, 2024
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