GeorgeD1's Posts
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Konnektions146:the instrument used is the standard battery capacity tester. it won't allow you go beyond 10s to prevent battery cell damage.
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efuro:well, when i decided to jettison the more traditional method of series-parallel battery connection, i knew i was making a huge gamble but apparently my innovation has seemingly paid off over time seeing as there are no wild variation in voltages between strings and between individual batteries as the test results show after almost 5yrs of use. p.s: the zenith batteries are agm batteries not flooded. they don't need babysitting. |
DMerciful:dmerciful, the batteries are in series parallel but with a little variation. it is not your traditional series-parallel battery bank connection. four batteries in series to make up 48v nominal system voltage and three strings connected with roughly equal length of positive and negative cables to the inverter. by so doing, each string receives about the same amount of charging current either from the inverter or from the cc. in effect, it is three independent battery banks working together as one. |
all, i recently had the need to relocate my battery bank and do a fresh installation of the inverter. in the process i thought it was a good opportunity to carry out a load test on the batteries. batteries were left to settle for about three days undisturbed (without load and without charge). the first set of readings show the individual battery voltages straight from rest while the second set of readings were taken after a ten second capacity load test using a standard battery capacity tester. for a battery bank which was first installed in September 2012 and used continuously 24hrs a day, i think the results are quite impressive. zenith has really blown my mind! pictures coming soon. also see attachment for those who want to download a copy of the results. before load test[i] string 1 S1 – 1 = 12.79 S1 – 2 = 12.80 S1 – 3 = 12.80 S1 – 4 = 12.80 --------------------------- string 2 S2 – 1 = 12.81 S2 – 2 = 12.81 S2 – 3 = 12.79 S2 – 4 = 12.78 ---------------------------- string 3 S3 – 1 = 12.77 S3 – 2 = 12.82 S3 – 3 = 12.81 S3 – 4 = 12.79 after 10s load test[i] string 1 S1 – 1 = 12.78 S1 – 2 = 12.79 S1 – 3 = 12.79 S1 – 4 = 12.78 ------------------------- string 2 S2 – 1 = 12.81 S2 – 2 = 12.81 S2 – 3 = 12.79 S2 – 4 = 12.78 ------------------------- string 3 S3 – 1 = 12.77 S3 – 2 = 12.82 S3 – 3 = 12.81 S3 – 4 = 12.79 cumulative for each string = 51.3v |
solowizzy:is this cordless tool still available? if yes, how much? |
10digit:You got mail! |
harveyspec, i tend to avoid mercury products generally. a couple of years ago they had this reputation for being substandard and that really put me off. maybe over the years they have improved in quality but i guess first impression lasts longest. |
javid4me, the difference is so dramatic! now you can really begin to harvest the true output of your solar panels!! congratulations once again and well done for heading to the voice of reason despite initially being reluctant to do so. be assured that the money you spend today, you will recover it many times over the lifespan of your modules. |
Obimind1:obimind1, what you need is a midnite solar lightning arrestor (midnite solar mnspd-115 115vdc) like this. among other buying options, you can also contact solar depot: https://www.solardepotng.com/SDN/product-category/enclosure-electrical-safety/lightning-protection/ (note: what they have on the link is the 300v version which you need for protection of the AC side of your system. you can also ask them for the 115v version which will better protect your charge controller and solar panels)
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mank1234:are we sure these used batteries are not the source of all this fake batteries flooding the market nowadays? they probably buy them off gullible peeps like us, refill them with electrolyte and re-label them like brand new. |
richmon, welcome back from the cold. no doubt 2017 is shaping up to be a very exciting year after all. |
DMerciful: efuro:dmerciful, efuro, the thermostat on the ariston is at its highest. and, no it was not a deliberate pre-set. that said, i think it will be interesting to throw an open challenge to as many here with electric water heaters in their homes. let's have snapshots of max temperatures of your hot water and see how it compares with that of the solar water heater. remember to set your thermostats at max. let's bet against the sun! ![]() |
efuro, no wahala. i will do that. but here is my other experience with electric water heater. so, i'm a tea guy and i have an electric water heater dedicated solely for kitchen use. i always like to take hot water out from the ariston before heating it up on the burner to raise its temp to boiling point before making my tea. i always used to wonder why it took so long for the water to boil knowing fully well that it was supposed to have been pre-heated by the water heater. this measurement helped me confirm what i had always suspected: the heater does not heat the water hot enough. now, the solar water heater is doing a better job without wires, without fuel, without phcn. |
all, out of curiosity i decided to measure the max temperature of my solar water heater and do a comparison with a fully functioning electric water heater (ariston). the result was shocking even to me. i knew the solar water heater really gets hot on a good day but i was really not prepared for the sharp difference in max temperatures between the two. see below pictures: the sun truly is the answer!
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chris81964:chris, well done once again. bigrovar:bigrovar, thanks. indeed i was referring to the before pictures. i actually thought they were pictures of the finished job. |
chris81964:chris81964, well done. i see you guys are really taking the nation by storm. one thing though, i noticed from the picture you posted seems your client used non-uniform brand batteries for his battery bank. how do you account for the differences in amp-hours? and what about build quality, materials and internal battery resistance? |
all, those rooting for lithium batteries should know they have limitations too. for instance, they don't handle overcharging very well and you'll have to install additional voltage and charging current controls that you don't need when it comes to traditional lead-acid. bottom line, do your research very well before throwing your money away. google is your friend! |
abunafiu:prof, those trojans are supposed to serve you well into the flip side of 15yrs if the various online reviews are anything to go by. except maybe something is terribly wrong with the quality of the ones they send to this part of the world. my zenith batteries by contrast seem to have fared very well. maybe because i've really been using them sparingly. my magnum inverter seldom allows them to go down below 48v. and so with a constant dod of 50% i'm thinking the batteries have not really been put under much stress this many years. |
refa, welcome on board. i'm happy you found a home here. please tell us a little about your system. array size? battery bank size? charge controller type? successes and challenges with going off grid? etc after all, we're all here to learn. |
earthrealm:earthrealm, generally speaking, the higher the wattage, the better for solar panels. saipro and dmerciful are both on point. rajo4real too. my next set of panels will definitely be higher than 200w. ![]() |
Barezzi:barezzi!!! wao! those links took me back in time. i have even forgotten that my last install job was way back 2013 and here i was talking of 2014 and 2015? how time flies!thanks for those links and thanks again! ![]() |
poundo yam rocks! ![]() |
foonshur, you can go back to year 2014 or 2015 pages on this thread if you really want to see my roof mounted solar panels. i think that was when i did my last set of installation. note however that 40 panels is still nothing compared to what others have on their roofs even though they may not be members of this forum. the object of this thread is to encourage and advise one another so i'm not really keen on showing off anything lest it will be misconstrued as show-boating. |
foonshur:foonshur, yeah 40 panels - and still counting too! the more, the merrier!! ![]() |
Saipro:saipro, you're totally correct. i guess one big reason i was able to get away with this for so long a time is my location. i live in a coastal area and although we have our own fare share of dust issues, i usually rely on the frequent rains to do my panel cleaning for me. as a matter of fact, we had our first rain of the year today in some parts of the city! ![]() also, with a present total of 40 panels, i dare say i have an oversized array. altogether my theoretical nameplate power should be 8000w but over the years, i've seen production diminish gradually and these days i struggle to reach a combined total of btw 2,500 and 2,800w. so at roughly one third of its installed capacity, i guess the negative impact of cumulative yearly dust settlement has finally hit home. JohnKester:johnkester, i guess i no longer need any prodding to hire that scaffold. with my production dropping to an all time low, its time to get up on that roof and shove that dust off the face of my panels. DMerciful:dmerciful, when you have a large pv array like mine, the only likely place to install them is on the roof. unless of course you have a compound as big as a football field. and when you install your panels on the roof, it becomes so much more difficult to gain access for a quick wash - even if the house is a bungalow. |
Gennextech:gennextech, this is one very important aspect of solar panel maintenance that most of us have been taking for granted. after over 6 years of installation and not cleaning my own panels even once, i must confess that i've seen a large drop in efficiency of my system. i'm almost tempted to hire a scaffold and go up there to do a thorough cleaning of the panels myself. |
NairaBaba:nairababa, my own experience with the tristar meter connectivity has been anything but pleasant. i think this is one area morningstar corp needs to improve in their devices. in this day and age when the drive is towards seamless internet connectivity vis iot (internet of things), its really disheartening to come across products where you have to jump through hoops just to connect them to your system. indeed, its no longer enough to make charge controllers that have a 99.8% conversion efficiency, those same controllers should be able to talk to other devices by the click of a button. |
dapsyra:dapsyra, it's all good. i advised a similar method early in the days but as we mature in the renewables journey, we must learn to do things the proper way. |
javid4me, noted. what is the output from your wind turbine like on a typical day with mild wind? i might have a good mind to include something similar in my arsenal of renewables if the power production is reliable. several years ago i mused over acquiring one and did a lot of read up on them. i realized that the cut-in speed of the turbines vary greatly with different brands and if you live in a relatively windless place like mine, you may end up being saddled with a turbine that sits idle most of the time rather than generate much needed power. |
foonshur:its about 56k now at solar depot. used to be 50k the last time i checked. i guess the dollar rate is affecting everything badly. https://www.solardepotng.com/SDN/product-category/solar-charge-controllers/morningstar-solar-charge-controllers/ |
Javid4me:javid4me, this is really impressive. i'm glad you finally summoned the courage to take the plunge and you have done it in such grand style! i also like that you decided to throw in a wind turbine into the mix. it's an area i would like to take a little more than passing interest in. congratulations! a fitting way to end an eventful year, if you ask me. i also like your fully illustrated schematic diagram. it gives me an impression of a mind with attention to details. two things to note however: 1. your may consider splitting your solar array into two strings and having two charge controllers. i know chris81964 already touched on this and i saw your response but no matter how much you try to equalize the voltages of both sets of panels, you will keep having one set of voltage being higher than the other, tilt leg or no tilt leg. this will be more apparent in the mornings when the sun is just beginning to rise and in the evenings when the sun is setting. the money you think you're going to save now by avoiding the purchase of an extra cc may well be lost many times over in the next 25 yrs when you keep losing valuable power as a result of this discrepancy of panel voltage. 2. you may also consider getting a stand alone charge controller for your wind turbine. i'm a bit doubtful of the reliability and efficiency of the inbuilt cc of that wind turbine. depending on the model you want to buy it may not be anything sophisticated or expensive. just a simple solid state cc like the tristar prostar: http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/prostar/ for a 600w turbine, you don't need a 30a or 45a cc besides a stand alone type will be more flexible for adjustments. just my two cents. |
dapsyra:dapsyra, don't you think that is a rather crude way of testing cable current carrying capacity? ![]() there is a more scientific way of achieving this using distance/wire size tools and charts like the one in the link below: http://myelectrical.com/tools/cable-sizing-calculator it's a pretty simple tool to use and will give you the right cable size provided you input the right data. note that if the wire you're using is undersized, you will already be losing power well before you start feeling the heat on your palms. |
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