Daboomb:


Good one from you there.
So, without the 'deception' of semantics, these "Second Life" Lithium batteries are USED, Second-Hand Batteries. Full Stop.

Now, if that is the case, my questions are: How do you guarantee or confirm the amount of Cycles left inside it, bearing in mind that the only reason we go for LiPo4 Cell batteries are because of its reputed 5000+ Cycles?

How do you TEST, that a Buyer is not being given a Used, second-life Cells, for the price of a New Ones, if a buyer requires New, grade A battery Cells.

It could well be that such Cells in a battery are closer to their "End of Life", than a "Second Life", without the new owner being aware, yet having paid top money for them!

I know you are a seller and l should not be asking you a question like that but l have the feeling you are a honest person and will always speak the truth.


Other Experienced/Expert/DIY RE proponents should please weigh-in on my question.
George_D
Ojeysky
Niyi
Trippledot
Valto
Earthrealm
Olopan
Ceaser
Dam5reey
McTrinity
And others whose name l cant remember now.
G

in addition to what others have said so far, you have to know that charge/discharge cycles is not an exact science.
a battery may be rated for 5000 cycles based on lab tests under standard conditions but in real world terms such
cells could actually put out 6000 or more cycles all depending on amount of current drawn per cycle/ length
of time. regardless of battery chemistry, this is a proven fact although lithium generally handles large draw down
currents better than other common battery technologies, e.g lead acid.
to answer your question, when it comes to second hand cells or batteries, you cannot totally eliminate the risk
of being saddled with almost depleted cells being traded as top grade. that is why the reputation of the seller
becomes key since a seller with a reputation to protect will not want to soil his name by selling junk just to make a
few bucks.

gadgetplanetng:


How fast is their delivery

Before covid-19 it used to be like a week from when shipment is initiated to delivery in Lagos.
But now it takes a little longer (for obvious reasons).

Spy360:

Someone told me that 5e is hard to get with 180cm. He also said that the c band is from 240cm and above. I am now confused. I stay in Owerri. I have also attempted 60e c band but no way. Yesterday, my wife was even begging me to leave it and manage the small dishes.

Since i don't have 180cm I may not be able to confirm that but I think you should still give it a try
using the directions above, By the way it is 7e i meant to write. I have corrected it in my original post.
Move from 7e as if you're going west.

Spy360:
Report Card

I have been trying to track Ses 5 c band since weekend. So far it has been elusive.

In order to achieve this I had to take a patient step by step approach from known to unknown. So I connected a Ku lnb and tracked 28.5e which I got easily. Then I tracked 51.5e which I also got easily.

Now sure that the dish, lnb and cables are ok, I proceeded to track 5e but didn't get signals. Instead I got 7e. Despite all efforts through tiny adjustments, 5e remained elusive.

Why is this so?

My next step was to use the 7e direction and connect my c band lnb. Yet it didn't work. What am I doing wrong?

Cc GeorgeD1, Bencote, adubam, Odilibe, Blexxonmak, Olenyi, ManirBK, Digitman

I am calling on all my fta gurus.

Bros, honestly this 5e don really suffer you oooh.
But if you can get 7e, then you can get 5e easily because both satellites are just 2 degrees apart!
Move your dish to 7e, be mindful of your east and west direction and slowly move the dish as if you're going west.
Make sure you change the TP to 12054v 3000sr (BET Naija). When you hit green, change your Ku lnb back to C band
and blindscan. You're good to go.

ojeysky:


The smile was mutual as I read through your post, especially when you term sharing lithium experience as glorification above other chemistries when people were very specific about LA. How a good LA will have any advantage over a good littium remains what I am yet to hear. Today my peak discharge was over 120A and charge over 100A on a 510AH battery bank, can you even do that with LA of same capacity without the voltage sagging below lvd.

However everyone to his own poison/food.

bro, as long as everyone is smiling, i guess that's all that matters. and, niyi already nailed it with his reply as usual.
i started this journey into energy freedom over 10yrs ago because i was tired of all the hassles associated with running
fuel guzzling generators. the oil changes, servicing, maintenance...the works. switching over to renewables shouldn't
take me back to that old forgotten era where i have to worry about whether my battery bank is top balanced or
bottom balanced. whether i have the right bms or whether my bank will suffer an unexplained voltage run-away...
i just want a system that just plain works and if i can get it with my lead-acid bank, what is there not to like?
lithium will eventually mature, i wager probably in another couple of years and by then most of these teething issues
would have been taken care of. who knows? instead of lifepo4 we all would be stocking up on lithium titanate or some
other higher version of lithium battery technology. like they always say, the best is yet to come.

mcTrinity:


Good evening Mr. Obimind....

I think we can actually always try to share experiences with certain type(s) of RE item technology without completely painting one type black, especially a type that has proven and is still proving reliable.

This forum deals with facts and details. And as far as this your story goes, it's completely devoid of details.

A lot of newbies and guests come in to this forum to get enlightened and its bad if they always tend to meet misleading stories

I'll go straight to my observation in your story. I strongly believe that the problems you had with your LA batteries (as far back as 2013, 2014 etc) weren't because they were LA technology. I believe they were as a result of misuse; in fact, consistent misuse.
Details that you didn't tell us here are the size of your battery bank and the load that you use. You also didn't tell us how you cycle it and how appropriately you were charging them.

We all know that LA has a big fault when it comes to maximum current you can pull from it at any time, and recommended DoD.

Imagine drawing 30ADC from a 20hr 200AH LA battery bank. Even the likes of Varta or US Trojan or Quanta would die within months.
Draw same 30A from a 200AH Li battery bank, and the battery would be smiling, and the voltage won't even dip. Drawing 30A from a 200Ah Li battery bank is even a "misuse"

I deal on both LA and Li and I always explain the Pros and Cons of each to new clients and allow them make their choice.

Folks are still using same LA, going to more than 5years and yet to change their batteries.

LA technology does not forgive abuse and misuse of any kind. Folks that understands it and are willing to abide by its "regulations" are still venturing into it happily. So, if you had consistently misused yours, don't come and dump unfounded conclusions here without facts and details of what actually happened, especially detail of your load, charging, and usage.

Just 2 months into Li technology and you're already concluding. I'll strongly advise you to study that guy very well and use it properly, otherwise you'll come back tomorrow to blame Lithium and now testify about NiCad technology...
Remember that those years, LA battery was amazing to you too until something started going wrong.

This is not for debate, as plenty have already been done, but to prevent new guys that are still trying to find their way around RE world from being mislead by your post.

Cheers

lolz. i couldn't have said it better. after our last extensive debate here on this lead-acid vs lithium thingy,
i just smile, read and waka pass whenever i stumble upon any post glorifying lithium above other battery chemistries.
the question i ask myself is, "how long will it take these peeps to realize that you don't change a winning team?"
we all watch the epl, and we see how winning teams are celebrated. there's no season i've seen where a ucl or premier
league winning coach was sacked for winning or where the highest goal scorer for the previous year was asked to go
just because the club owner found a new, sharp looking, sleek untested player!
so, what's the point here? for those of us who have used lead acid over the years and seen the benefits its a hard sell
telling us to dump our tested and trusted banks for a new bride still going through puberty.
my last zenith batteries served me for over 8yrs and when i eventually changed them out my friend who bought them
called to thank me for their good second hand value. if they had been scrap i doubt he would be thanking me for
selling junk to him.
lithium has its advantages and so does lead acid. we should all just learn to accept that fact while we continue our
collective journey to energy freedom.

Spy360:

Is there possibility of obstruction from trees or fence since it is facing the sky? My dish is located near the fence. I will give it another shot tomorrow.

Since your dish will be facing the sky directly, its unlikely that any obstruction will prevent you
from receiving signal unless of course if you decide to install the dish directly under a tree or canopy

Spy360:
GeorgeD1 please assist me on steps to track Ses5 on 5e on 1.8m with c band lnb. I am mostly after the local channels there. Thanks.

I think Penuelseun has answered you. Remember that with 5e, your dish is facing the sky directly.
Install your C band LNB and use TVC frequency and symbol rate (3701H, 5000SR). Skew ur LNB initially
at the 2 o'clock position, if it doesn't work, use 10 o' clock position. Move slowly from west to east while
gently rocking your dish up and down. Be patient and you will hit signal.

alstacs:



I empathize with those who lost parts of their systems as a result of lightning. I have been a victim as well. My lightning surge protector on the roof is superb with its earthing but it didn't stop my CCTV and inverter from getting roasted.
Nice enlightenment in your post sir but I want to ask about a different type of surge protector I saw and installed.
Does this also work line the Midnite one? Seems to be on the high side in cost compared to others.

Please see this below

i'm not familiar with this brand but i guess if it's working for others, it might as well work for you.
however, midnite solar has been a very reliable brand in the industry and when it comes to quality,
you can't go wrong with them.

hiidee:
Pls is it a must to install thunder arrestor for bungalow with solar panel?? If it is what is price range to install arrestor and if not is there any alternative to stop thunder??

the answer to your question is yes. a lightning or surge protection device is very much necessary for your bungalow
to protect your solar installation. however, you did not state if yours is a new building without earthing or already existing
building with a good earthing system. if your building already has a good earth, all you need do is to incorporate an
spd (surge protective device) like the midnite solar mnspd 115 and mnspd 300 and you're fine. budget for this would
be under 250k to 300k i think.
note that installing a 'thunder arrestor' as we normally call all those copper spikes on top of your roof will not necessarily
save your solar investment from lightning strikes. i learnt that lesson the hard way in my former abode.

https://www.solar-electric.com/suprdemn.html
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-mnspd-300-ac-surge-protector.html

kd10:
Pls for those us shopping on foreign � online stores under one platform and get it delivered in Nigeria .for me i use Mallforafrica online but since today i can't log in to my account with them , i have called there customer care line and nobody is picking the call even WhatsApp no reply so i don't know if they have stopped operations.
Pls if anybody here knows any other similar online services provider that is useful pls � help me with there link Thanks house members.

Bro, why don't you try heroshe? I been using them for over 2yrs now and so far I've been impressed with
their services.
https://myheroshe.com/auth/signin

Spy360:
GeorgeD1 viewing silently.

The BOSS.

Lolz. My guy. I hail oh

swordswifter:


That's true.
Life takes us on different journey's but home will always where the wifi connects fastest so i'm back to learn from the new kings on the block and share when i can.
It feels good to be back

Hello bro, welcome back.
You can use an AV to RF adapter for your TV and use an RF headphone to listen to clean, clear audio from your TV set.
No need to go the firmware upgrade route if really its the external noise that's your main challenge.

ajabani4allah,
there's absolutely nothing wrong with an inverter charging a battery bank 24/7 without load.
provided the charging parameters are set correctly, it can theoretically charge at infinum.
depending on the battery type and state of charge/depletion, it would most certainly start with
bulk charging before tapering off into float/maintenance charge when battery is full. it will
remain in this state until when duty calls and inverter kicks in to draw power for critical loads.

lexi28:
Guys, good day.
I need some info.
I read online that running an inverter aircon 24/7 at 25°c is more efficient and consumes less energy in the long term than running it on turbo mode for a few hours and switching to gen mode. I do not have the battery capacity to run this test 24/7, can you guys help out and run a 1hp inverter AC for 24/48hrs to compare kWh consumed @25°c vs gen/turbo modes? Anyone with substation capacity PV/battery bank should kindly assist with this small test.
@NiyiOmoIyunade
@ojeysky
@Adrusa
@olopan
@GeorgeD1
@babaegun
@dapsyra
@oshomo12
@McTrinity
@Valto
@dam5reey
@Saipro

Muchos gracias!!

brother,
this test you're suggesting is totally unnecessary. i have a couple genpals or what lg calls 'inverter' ac and i can tell you it does
consume less power and is more efficient over time compared to traditional acs.
your energy savings should not be limited to a narrow 24/48hrs range else you will miss the whole essence. rather think more
of a wider band like perhaps 3, 6 or 12 months. and for this you will really need an energy meter plugged in permanently to
that equipment.

kiekie1:


Okay thanks for the clarification, pls which of the product price Sir

the growatt advert. it has lithium-ion and underneath its also saying lifepo4. the two
battery chemistries are slightly different. both cannot be in the same battery.

Passion8:
Greetings to everyone.
This is my first Post on this thread. Please kindly pardon me if I ask a question that has already been attended to.
Is it possible for me to install this solar system by myself since I am a professional electrical installer?
And how much is the cost of the the complete set with maximum output of 1.8Kva?.

passion8,
welcome on board and glad you finally made the decision to take the plunge into renewables.
i assure you, its a life changing step you're about to take for which you will be forever grateful.
yes, absolutely. you can install your solar system by yourself and this is what the thread is all
about. almost everyone here is a do-it-yourself solar enthusiast apart from a few marketers just
here to make a few bucks who don't contribute anything to trending topics.
as for the cost of a complete setup, that would depend on what load you want to power. you
can forget about the estimated 1.8kva output and just list what loads you want to run based on
their wattage and other good members in the house will weigh in and offer suggestions how
you can go about it.

kiekie1:
Discounted product prices! Seek no further!!!

Growatt :

Growatt 3kva 48v inverter ... 295,000
Growatt SPF 5000es 48v "can be paralleled" .. 470,000
Growatt 6kva 48v .... 635,000
Growatt 8kva 48v .... 870,000
Growatt 10kva 48v ... 1,090,000
Growatt 12kva 48v ... 1,140,000

Phocos 5000w 48v pure sinewave inverter "can function without batteries" ... 550,000

Vmax 1500w 12v pure sinewave inverter "with 30a inbuilt pwm solar controller" ... 100,000

Growatt hope 3.3kwh 48v lithium battery .. 685,000
Pylontech Us 3000c lithium battery ... 880,000
Pylontech Us 2000c .... 635,000
Shoto 4.8kwh lithium battery "48v 100a" ... 860,000



Contact,
Smartcell global services
CALL ONLY:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP ONLY::: http://.us/w/?c=a46ea5

bros,
you may want to revisit your advert (especially the flyers). i see lithium-ion and lifepo4 lumped together
referring to same product.

isangjohnson:
NB: Batteries are tubular.

Pv Array 1 will face south while Pv Array 2 will face west in diagram one and two.

The second diagram are to be installed separately.

In the first diagram, I intend to connect the output of the two CCs in parallel to the battery bank to work in sync.

QUESTION: 1. In the first diagram, can Pv Array1 and 2 charge the battery bank simultaneously?
2. At what point will I allow one array to sleep?
3. Is installation of HA02 really necessary since monthly equalisation of these tubular batteries are mandatory?

Your advice is highly appreciated all

i see a lot has been said already on this.
1) the two arrays will charge your battery bank simultaneously. there's absolutely nothing wrong in installing your panels
facing west as long as they're not the only set of panels you have.
personally, i have west facing panels and to my surprise they seem to outperform my south facing panels which is still a
phenomenon i'm trying to understand till date.
2) you don't have to worry about one array going to sleep or whatever. your cc takes care of that
3) i'm not a fan of balancers (never installed one) and i rather think they're overrated. if you do your basic wiring properly
you won't need one as your batteries will always be in sync.

Namzy:
My biggest disadvantage with lead acid batteries(I'm using 24v 220 luminous bought 3 years ago) is with the charging current. I recently increased my panels to 340w *8 (2720w) and the charging current I see sometimes is scary sometimes getting up to 40amps. I reduced it initially to 30 amps according to battery specs and my load which is just 2 tvs a ps4, dstv and a fridge and freezer, but I seem to seem to be wasting solar power so I increased it to 65amps. Guessing with this my batteries won't last long from amps overcharging. Well time to start saving for the inevitable or is there a work around?

if you have a solid cc like the morningstar, there's no big deal with this actually.
the charge controller will dial back the amps and only allow what the battery will accept
pass through, unless your settings are terribly wrong ab initio.

funshyboi:


I think it’s better I opt for AGM batteries since they can afford dip occasionally.
I ask this question because I know of a solar installer who mainly used “MAXIMUM” batteries for his customers. I’m kind of inquisitive to why he’s doing that.
I can’t ask him because I feel he won’t be sincere with his answer. He was the one that advised I can be using car battery as substitute for my LiFePO4 but unfortunately the results from the car battery is not encouraging so I had to stop using it. Since then I don’t want to agree with his advices again.

So oga George, your sincere opinion will be appreciated

if you have the option of a good quality agm battery, i will advise you go for it instead of the gel cell batteries.
they are the better choice outside of lithium.

MontyNG:


@GeorgeD1


Ok
I kinda guessed I'll be misunderstood. I wasn't asking about smart ACs.

OK this is a small test to know if your AC has dedicated "on and off IR codes" , or just a "power toggle IR code"


So with your Genpal AC off,

- switch it on with the remote. The AC beeps and comes on (simple enough)

- then stick it in your pocket (or Walk out the room) the press the remote power button again
(This is so the AC doesn't respond)

- Now bring it out your pocket, (or go back to the room) and press the power button on the remote again (third time now)

Does:

A) your AC beeps and goes off
B) your AC beeps but stays on
C) your AC doesn't respond


If A), then the AC just has a power toggle IR code (i.e I believe most ACs are like this) e.g The LG/Hisense ACs

If B), then the AC has dedicated On and Off IR codes. e.g The Solstar branded AC is like this

If C), Bros, change the batteries of your remote and do the test again from the beginning


Let me know which it is.

So far, I know that

Option A examples:
LG, Hisense

Option B example:
Solstar, (Panasonic?)

bro, ojeysky is correct. it will do option b
the power button when pressed turns on the remote as well as sends signal to the ac to start working.
you don't even have to put it in your pocket and leave the room. all you have to do is switch off the remote
by pressing the power button while blocking the ir signal with the palm of your hands. when you remove your
palms and press it again, ac stays on.

MontyNG:



Quick one about the Genpal ACs...

Do they have dedicated On and Off power commands from the remote? Or is it simply a power toggle.

I hope you understand what I mean by this... If not, I can explain further.

I am looking for an inverter AC with dedicated On and Off commands

(I think only folks that run smarthome systems will understand the need for this small but very crucial distinction)

this is a typical genpal remote control. the red button is the power button but i think ojeysky already answered your
question in his post above.

MontyNG:
Quick one guys,

If using lithium batteries, can you retain your non-inverter AC?

Or you have to change it out to inverter ACs


I will rather retain my 1.5hp non inverter AC as the market options for inverter ACs are limited. (only LG/Hisense I think)

not only lg/hisense. you also have haier thermocool genpal acs which work on the same principle as lg inverter acs.
i presently have installed 1hp and 1.5hp genpal acs and they work beautifully on my inverter system.
where you run 1 conventional ac, you can replace with at least 2 or 3 genpal acs, so over time, the energy
savings is worth the additional cost.

Saipro:

The brutality continues ...

Those of us whom invested in rather substantially sized PV arrays yet seemed extravagant (on meager wages) seem to be grinning from ear to ear these days. However, this spells untold hardship as a lot of the cost of manufacturing hinges on power utilization. What hope is left for the average person on the streets? Yet another increment looms even as the proposed one is yet to be implemented.

a few weeks back my colleague complained that he was spending an average of 50k/month on public power
to the extent that he was forced to start putting off a lot of his household appliances all in a bid to save money.
with this new increase i wonder what he will do next.
looking back in hindsight, an investment in solar has been one of the best decision of a lifetime for me.
truely, the sun is the answer!

https://guardian.ng/news/nigerians-to-pay-more-for-electricity/

There are indications that Nigerians will pay more for electricity starting from next week.

The development, already designed by the Nigerian Electricity Regulatory Commission (NERC) under the Service Based Tariff (SBT) programme will take effect from September first.

The SBT came into force last year, increasing cost of electricity by over 50 per cent as government attempts to halt subsidy in the electricity sector and allow the Nigerian Electricity Supply Industry (NESI) generate enough fund to finance the bed-ridden market.

Although criticisms have dogged the service based tariff as improvement in electricity supply remained dismal with perpetual outages and collapse of transmission and distribution infrastructure, some distribution companies already informed consumers that a new tariff would be implemented next week.

A document from the Eko Electricity Distribution Company, dated 25 August 2021 with reference number 023/EKEDP/GMCLR/0025/2021 shows that the tariff would increase between N42.44 to 58.94 depending on their class. The tariff is implemented to remain till December before further increase in January next.

Across the band, the increase remained N2 from the tariff paid between July to August.

“This is to officially notify you that there will be an increase in electricity tariff with effect from 1st September 2021. This increase is as a result of nationwide mandate to implement the Service Based Tariff approved by our regulator NERC,” Eko DisCo wrote in the document signed by the company’s General Manager, Loss Reduction, Olumide Anthony-Jerome.

funshyboi:
Hello guys I’m thinking of of getting a gel battery. Pls do anyone have a reservations , advice or suggestions before I spend scarce money of something that won’t last

depending on the grade/quality, gel batteries are fine. however, they are not as forgiving as agm batteries when
subject to abuse. just make sure you get a reliable charger to go with it and ensure you don't routinely dip them
beyond 80% dod.

saintneo:
GeorgeD1 waleayeni1 michaelondon53 twinstaiye all FTA gurus.

Are you in Lagos? Do you have contact of any installer for FTA around Egbeda? Recently relocated from PH to Lagos, so I need to setup my FTA channels. Kindly assist.

saintneo,
Welcome to Lagos. Unfortunately I'm not residing in Lagos at the moment but I'm sure one of our able installers will contact you soon.

earthrealm:


Errrrm
You err kind sire

Was on your side of the table 2 or 3 yrs ago when this issue was discussed, i know better now

A 12v 280ah lifepo4 can easily and safely power a 1.5hp ac without issues , but to dream of powering same load safely with leadacid, you need minimum of 8 units 12v 200ah cells. ...........

Why you are enjoying your lead acids is that you are frightenly oversized, with those your 2v 2000ah. Its akin to 3.2v 280ah in terms of load you can put on it, but cheaper and lighter in weight.

A 3.2v 280ah lifepo is about 5.4kg, while a 2v 2000ah would be about 150kg......

bro, its a bit gratifying to know you were on my side 2 or 3 years ago but i really don't think its about taking sides.
and if we should really take sides i think we should always be on the winning side. and, for me the winning side will
be the side that works/performs without stress.
i don't know what formula you used to derive your calculation which makes 2v 2000ah equal to 3.2v 280ah but i can
assure you there's nothing frightening about the size of my battery bank. a lot of effort was put into arriving at a
right size bank for my household needs and when the opportunity came knocking i gave it all i could muster and like
they say, the rest is history.
not everyone has the constraints of space and not everyone bothers about weight so what might be a show stopper
for you might just be a walk in the park for another person.
like i said before, lets leave all the options open and keep a balanced thread. lead acid will be with us for a long time
to come even as lithium continues to gain acceptance.

ceaser:


I agree with you. The mainstream is now gradually and faster than ever drifting towards lithium. The affordability is easing and with many offerings and start ups in the market (save ones like felicity that lie about capacity), it can only get better.

I think to my guys that still stick with Lead acid, it is a function of what still works for them, the ability to have a hugely oversized bank (as is expected to be with lead acid) that does not impair functionality much and probably in addition, the undesire to give up on a huge investment in LA in favour of lithium without first maxing/squeezing out the last drop of the investment on it (lead acid).

I believe acceptance and transition to LFP despite being an avid fan of LA was easier for Oga Níyì because he had clients that were much more interested in the new thing, he had to get them their choice and in the process had first hand exposure to LFP. The need to properly intimate himself to that chemistry in order to serve that section of clients necessitated owning banks himself. And now he is a faithful disciple. . Now he apparently even wants to do away with just few weeks old 272ah cells in order to upgrade to maybe 1000ah cells. Ha! Baba, Tuale o.
I hope I assumed correctly sha.

In the coming months, we should see guys engaging in e-vehicle constructions or modifications, starting majorly with e-bikes. Maybe this thread will also accommodate that new entry or perhaps it will have its own thread altogether.

i couldn't have said it better. and for someone not trying to offload any solar wares to prospective clients, that
says a lot.
and like someone said in a previous message we been through all this lithium vs lead thingy a while back so i'm
not really going to do a repeat. lithium is still evolving and going mainstream by the day and for a long time to
come will be just another option besides lead acid. let us take that into account as we dissect info on this thread
so that newbies planning to take the renewables route would not necessarily get the idea that one option is evil
and to be avoided at all cost while the other option is good and to be embraced regardless of the cost.
balance of info is key here to avoid peeps being led astray.

Namzy:

And George appears only when needed lol. I use tubular batteries ans it's been serving me for 3 years now. I'll still wait for that sweet price point before switching. But I'm happy it's getting affordable

lolz brother. i do my best to keep up with happenings on the thread but most of us have day jobs quite different from solar.
apart from those here who make a living trading renewables i guess you can't avoid being absent for some time
when duty calls

Namzy:

Wow had no idea you could get 12v 100ah @₦125k. Then why are people still going for lead acid batteries. Does he have a 24v config?

bro, despite the seemingly huge benefits of lithium, lead acid still holds an attraction for a lot of folks.
provided you don't saddle yourself with flooded lead acid which needs babysitting, lead acid in the form of
gel or agm is essentially an install and forget kind of set up where you don't worry yourself with a lot of issues
lithium owners have to worry about. you don't do top balancing or bottom balancing with lead acid and you
hardly need a bms. for anyone thinking of starting his or her journey into renewable energy, lead acid is still
the preferred entry point.