Ikawokolaso01:
Guys please advise which car I can get for 2m in Nigeria.

Depends on what the car would be used for, what city you live in, etc.

Macmilla:

I'm learning another bad thing today about our kazeems
I don't have the struk ones. The welding is most likely my problem.

Hope you know welding is an outdated practice?
They don upgrade to throwing bolts and nuts in there to lock it in place amongst other practices.

ashile:
31 views and no response.

please ooooooh

If you're in Lagos, call 07089030689 and I'll diagnose and possibly fix for free

samuelson06:
Yesterday, my car AC [for Ford Focus 2009] stopped blowing at speed 1-3 but only 4, which is very noisy. How can I deal with this?
.

Possibly a bad resistor on the fan control switch.
Replace and you should be fine.

Rajman45:
Guru's in house,
I decided to jack my car and check the ball joint, and I discovered this .
Please, what's the effect and can it cause the ball joint to pull off?
Thanks

That's your stabilizer links and it's part of your suspension system.
It won't affect your ball joint, but it's purpose and functions are defeated and not present.

Aangg:
Non, I’ve only done servicing in the last 4months, the issue started like a month ago

I suspect an electrical issue.
Probably a bad ground.
If in Lagos, kindly call 07089030689 for further assistance.

michytluv:
Good day all
Asking for a friend who just cleared his 06 Corolla.
He is asking if he can use this fur his servicing

It's a great oil if what he's buying is the original one.

Aangg:
Pls my car drives well in the morning, but during close of work when going home, moves like it’s dragging sometimes, even to overtake might have to hard press the turtle to pick up. Scanned and no codes came up. Pls help

Corolla 2012

Was there any prior electrical repairs or installation before issue started?

Leonyluiz:
Good day all. I use a Honda Accord 2006. 4 Plugs. I recently replaced the Compressor and the Condenser. But I noticed that the AC stalls the engine badly. It got so bad that it refused to pull away from a traffic light until i switched off the AC. What are the possibilities of what might be wrong?

Bad or wrong compressor type.
Or bad compressor coil clutch.

chccho:

Once in a while i am on the highway and Yes its that performance I'm very interested in. The car is a fantastic driving experience

Buy what you would love to be seen in and enjoy driving.
You should be fine coming from a V8.

valarinz:


After you carry my money go give someone else, you now want my help to start fixing it even before arrival?

🙄🙄

I stand with you on this comrade 😂

digitalEbereDev:
My car stalls when going at low speeds mostly when in traffic.

This does not happen every time but sparingly and never happens when in normal or high speed.

What can be causing this?

You didn't state what car it is.

seyigiggle:
Dear good people of NL Gazzuzz, Kingreign and other eminent members)

Please i need help on the following code which came up after fluid change with type IV fluid
Toyota Camy 04 V6
P0986,
P0798,
P0778,
P0748,
P0746
P2716

The car does not engage in D, but reverse except i leave it for some time and retry.
We have changed brain box to no avail.

Thank you in anticipation of your usual kind assistance

Was the old oil black with dark particles in it?
Was it smelling burnt?
What was the reason for the fluid change?
The easy and safest way out might be to replace the transmission for peace of mind.

Originakalokalo:
3 steering rack in three years.

They leak.slowly and eventually leaks such that the reservoir cannot hold fluid.


Car is Honda Accord 2007.

What am I doing wrong?

Anyone? Please?

Replace with original brand-new rack and use genuine Honda Power steering Fluid and not ATF.

nigretos2011:
Yo, guys! I've got a bit of a situation here. My vintage sports car has seen better days, and I need to get it back in tip-top shape. Can anyone recommend some top-notch exclusive repair kits? I'm talking about the good stuff – tools, parts, and whatnot, specifically designed for classic rides like mine. You see, this beauty has been in my family for generations, and I want to make sure I restore it to its former glory. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

So what car is this?
A VW bug 1500?

oladele239:


Abeg refer me to someone
I dey lag
Not gazzuz o , my car is less than 2010 o

07089030689

Macmilla:

PROBLEM FIXED!!!
The oil pan was opened and there lies the pieces of my oil pump chain tensioner. The oil pump chain was loose and hitting the remains of the tensioner. New oil pump tensioner installed and engine closed. Sound gone.
All codes gone for now except oxygen sensor code.
I'm so relieved.

Cool.
Good thing you came back to update the house on progress made.
It would help people with diagnosis in the future.

apexquest:

Thank you for this response. ECU was changed and the transmission is working well now.

Good to know.
Cheers.

Nomyth:


Thanks.

Should I just take the non turbo as a trade off like that?

And is moving from a turbo engine to non turbo a downgrade?

Yes, moving to a non turbo is considered a downgrade.

shagamite:

lol dey play. I used 6 litres Holt, drives smoothly

Time shall tell who is playing between you both.

Nomyth:
Hello house,

My mechanic just crashed my VW passat 2008 turbo beyond repair now someone is offering another one as swap for the accidented but what he's offering is non turbo. Question is:

Do I get the non turbo like that, or

Do I get the non turbo, remove the engine and put the turbo engine from the accidented one (engine is still good) or

Should I get a body and just put the turbo engine?

It's safer to get the exact same body for transplant.
Using the non turbo would require you transplanting the wiring harness and co to the donor car.

Macmilla:

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

udy4real:
Good day pros in the house,Please what could be the problem of a Mercedes Benz ml350 2008 model that the battery gets drained after parking for 3 hours and over,I have to jump start it again to start

1st you need to know what's draining the battery before throwing parts at.
What's your repair history?

shininglite:



Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

Rescan your transmission with a professional scan tool.
If in Lagos and need assistance, kindly call 07089030689

Maxcoded:


Okay so an update on this

After reading so many articles online coupled with what people also said on this thread, I finally resorted to putting back the thermostat.

Turns out, there was an underlying overheating issue which the "Kazeem" was too lazy to fix hence, optin for the thermostat removal. The new mechanic I tried found out the radiator was leaking at the top, he removed it and fixed it. Put it back together with the new thermostat I bought, rewired the fans back to Factory settings and voila, the annoying fan noise stopped. Now the fan only picks up when the engine gets to a certain temperature and also switches off when the temperature is at optimal temp. The temperature is now stable at the halfway mark and there is no issue of overheating, despite the super hot weather.

The car is now super quiet.


..and oh, I found out today that my under-hood catalyst is absent, 😂. But that's a "fight" for another day

Thanks for everyone who contributed, really appreciate it

Cool

kingreign:


Abeg ni vex,pls interprete the codes, I'm lazy.

Happens to us all.

Highziq:
Hello House,

I drive a Honda Pilot 2006
Just noticed this afternoon that my car jerks when it tries to change to the second gear

What could be the cause as I'm confused on this.

Scan transmission for codes.

Abbeyismo:

Normal temperature degrees suppose reach 94° when it get to 98° fan pick up and cool back to 94°.
While driving without thermostat and direct fan the temperature will stay on 85° no matter how long ur distance is. With this the engine is not hot enough.
Use scanner and check to confirm after ur movement.

Bros, at 85° C, vehicle would enter Close Loop and work optimally regardless.

designmaverick:
Good morning everyone.
I own a Camry 2008.
It has a fuel tank size of 70L.
I noticed it consumes too much fuel.

On a full tank till the amber fuel light, it did about 190 miles and that’s like 11 mpg compared to the 25mpg -30mpg as recorded by Toyota.


I have no check engine light
Spark plugs intact
02 sensors working too.
Catalyst intact too.


What could be the problem?
This worries me a lot.


I await your response 🙏🏾

You didn't state if it's a 4/6 cylinder engine.
So many issues could be responsible for poor mpg without throwing a check light.
1. Low tyre pressure.
2. Binding brakes.
3. Hauling heavy load.
4. Vehicle not switching to overdrive (this might trigger a check light but your Bluetooth scanner might not pick it).
5. Drive terrain (hilly environment) and drive pattern.
You can reach me on 07089030689 if you need further diagnosis.

designmaverick:
Good morning everyone.
I own a Camry 2008.
It has a fuel tank size of 70L.
I noticed it consumes too much fuel.

On a full tank till the amber fuel light, it did about 190 miles and that’s like 11 mpg compared to the 25mpg -30mpg as recorded by Toyota.


I have no check engine light
Spark plugs intact
02 sensors working too.
Catalyst intact too.


What could be the problem?
This worries me a lot.


I await your response 🙏🏾

If in Abule Egba, you can reach me on 07089030689.
Meanwhile, what's your fuel trim reading?

apexquest:
Hello Sir,
Please my 2008 rav4 recently suffered from electrical issues.
Car went off and refused to start at an unsafe location. In order to free up the transmission to move vehicle to safety, I noticed the rewire inserted a screwdriver into the hole at the selector and moved it to neutral. Car was then rolled to safety where efforts were made to trace the problem.

ECU was detected as the cause. It has been changed and car starts and drive now.

Problem now is that, when I select reverse(R) or drive (D), it enters with a gentle bang.
But when driving, the other gears select quietly as before.
Putting it in R or D has always been very smooth without bang before now.

The brake light has also refused to go off.

No transmission code on Bluetooth scanner.

Could it have anything to do with the changed ECU or the rewire has touch something else?

What can I do to have that smooth bang-free experience again, please

Probably an issue with the replacement ECU.
Is yours an AWD model?
And was it towed for long with all 4 wheels down?

successfx:


Ikotun, Governors Road to be precise

You can reach me on 07089030689.
I'm close to Ipaja