Jonescosmos's Posts
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It's possible that it has discharged below BMS Cut off Voltage due to prolonged storage, so you might have to Jump Start it. To do that, you will need a DC Power Supply, Open the battery and Clip your DC Power Supply to the Battery Main Terminals leading to the BMS. Adjust your Voltage to the Nominal Voltage of the Battery Pack. Turn on your Lithium Battery by its switch. The DC Power Supply will confuse the BMS to think that your Battery Pack has not discharged and turn on the Mosfets. Once the battery turns on, start power up your charge source to start charging your battery then remove the DC Power Supply. You can also charge the cells directly using this method but this is only if you know what you are doing. DadojoReloaded: |
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You can see it clearly in the picture he attached. It's the Precision Resistor 100W12RJ. mctfopt: |
Deye no fit make that mistake na. ![]() Ferdiwar: |
Thank you for this sequel backup support on this issue, I hope that most of us here will learn from this. lexi28: |
If you still experience a spark above the capacitance of your inverter after a pre-charge circuit or resistor is introduced in your setup and start-up, then something is amiss. Of course there's a difference between in-rush current and surge current in devices and circuits, you should always outline your arguing points. Just as you simply put it out, you should have also explained the difference and how to protect your devices from both types. It would be interesting to see your analogies of both types of current and how you could use an SPD to resolve the IN-RUSH type of current. I don't know about others here, but despite my knowledge, I am here to learn more. loluskysat: |
Chaii, Please educate us on how to do this an SPD and what class of SPD we should use for this with respect to Battery Current. We are here to learn !!! loluskysat: |
> No, a breaker will not prevent this in-rush current. > System usage sometimes determines if there would be a disconnect between Inverter and Battery. Someone might not disconnect the battery from the inverter but where the battery mostly discharges below shutdown voltage and inverter trips off, that system is most likely to experience in-rush current when it wakes up if charging source is applied. When your BMS shuts off because of battery low voltage cut-off, when the battery wakes up there would be an in-rush current if the BMS is not equipped with this resistor. > Always switch both Inverter and Battery Off when going away. For DIYers: To retrofit an in-rush resistor into your batter, you would need a Relay Delay Timer or a manual transfer switch which will first contact sends power to the resistor and second contact sends power the to inverter. For those using factory built batteries with proprietary BMS, pay attention to the moment you turn on your battery, you will hear a click, that is the Relay Delay Timer which operates the resistor. It will first send the power to the resistor for a preset number of seconds (usually 2secs) using the delay timer circuit, and after the 2 seconds, it transfers the power to the output terminal which goes to your inverter. I have attached diagrams illustrating this process. Drgreatone:
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Of course it's a SHORT CIRCUIT FAULT as clearly seen on the screen. Your first diagnoses should be to power off the output breaker on the Inverter or UPS, restart it and see if the fault continues. 1. If it continues, you might want to have the unit checked out by a professional, a dust clogged PCB might also cause it. 2. If the fault goes away after tripping the output breaker, then have your load appliances wiring checked out by a qualified electrician for possible shorted wires. Olumighty123: |
Don't waste your money going to buy another Inverter. The problem is that the IN-RUSH Battery Current damaged the DC Bus Gates of your inverter which is likely to continue even if you buy another Inverter. That spark your noticed was supposed to be absorbed or suppressed by the Pre-Charge Resistor first and softly starts the Inverter LV DC Bus Circuit. Newer Cworth Batteries has an RJ45 type Pre-Charge Resistor that you can plug into the RJ45 Port to limit the In rush current. Some other Lithium Batteries has the DIP Switch type of this Resistor that you can toggle to on and off. If your Battery has an RJ45 Port, I would suggest you approach Cworth Service center to grab this Resistor. If your battery does not have an RJ45 Port ask them for a Pre-Charge Resistor or you can buy one to retrofit in your battery. Every Installer, DIYer, etc is supposed to have this Resistor because some Warrantees does not cover damages caused by In-Rush Current. Take note. You can google how to protect your Inverter from in-rush current for more info. SEOSpecialist:
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Yeah, SE-G5 1 Pro-B is slightly different from SE-G5.1 PRO. There is still another one SE-G5.1B (For African Market according to Deye) Ferdiwar: |
You can't just ship it, their ESS haven't gotten the Certification Required For International Trade in Africa. For other regions they don't have issues. I even tried to ship it to UK and take it from their, they simply told me that the UK Customs will not release it for export into Africa. I rested my case since that time. But I believe that now they have gone into full scale production, they might soon start sending to Africa. Dam5reey:
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They do, I have been asking for it since 2022, and each time they keep telling me that it's not for African Market yet, That I have to wait. swagifted:
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LoRA WAN, GPRS& GPS Meters. They have a central Dashboard Portal where you can Manage Settings, Accounts and other things. Clients can download Apps to see their data and etc gadgetplanetng: |
They've been challenged, let's await their defense. Dam5reey: |
I promised us these take apart pictures, Oya, people wey get Pylontech make una post una own ooo. |
Inside Felicity LPBA48300 15KW
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Inside Felicity FLA48500 25KW
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Inside Deye SE-G5.1 PRO-B 5.12KW 48V
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Inside Deye BOS 5.12KW HV Battery Module
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Inside Deye BOS G HV Battery Control Unit
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This is IVEM (New Casing, Currently in production) Picture 1: 3KW / 5KW Picture 2: 8KW With Built-in Wi-Fi Module swagifted:
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This is IVEM (Old Casing production ended January 2024) swagifted:
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This is IVCM (Production ended in 2019) swagifted:
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Just a few questions for you: 1. Did you verify that the Copper Rod is real and not coated? 2. What is the Diameter of the Copper Rod? 3. What is the Dimension and thickness of the Copper Mat? 4. How many bars do you have in your Mat? 5, I did not see clamps on your list, how do you intend to link your Earth Cable to your rod? 6. How do you intend to install your arrestor and earth? Same Hole, same Coppers linked to both arrestor and earth bar? 7, Why did you buy so much salt? Where is your Charcoal & Bentonite? 8. How deep do you intend to dig for your earthing? etc ![]() One thing is to have the funds to buy these items, another thing is to do a good installation or do a haphazard installation. But in all these, the choice is entirely yours. RickyM: |
I have 3 units the White Hybrid LV Models working since 2019, I have 6 units of HV Hybrid Models personally owned Since 2022, I have installed more than 50 units of the HV Hybrid Models for clients. I had issue with one of the HV 3KW which works without Battery but once you connect battery, it shuts down on Error 23. Then, months into these installations, more than 5 units of the Inverter started to have power switch ON issues, I noticed that if you eventually switch off the Inverter at some point you can't get it to come back on. Upon investigation, I realized that the Power Switch sucks in dust and it blinds the contacts inside the switch preventing SWITCH ON Operation. Opening the switch and cleaning it up and reassembling it didn't help much. So I ordered 20Pcs of the Power Switch and have been replacing the buttons as they get bad, I would usually mask the switch with transparent masking tape to prevent air flowing through it. WHY DOES THE INVERTER SUCK AIR VIS THE SWITCH ![]() **** I DISCOVERED THAT ALL THE UNITS THAT HAD THIS ISSUE HAD CLOGGED AIR FILTERS **** >>>> CLEAN YOUR AIR FILTERS REGULARLY TO PREVENT THE INVERTER FROM LOOKING FOR ALTERNATIVE MEANS TO BREATHE SINCE YOU CAN'T TELL THE COOLING FANS WHAT TO DO. <<<< I have never had any Electrically or Electronically Related faults with all the units. Please note that newer production of these IVEM series now has a pop-out fuse on the left hand side of the inverter. Also note that the IVEM 3KW, 5KW and 8KW now comes in a white case and the power button has been relocated. swagifted: |
Check my signature RickyM: |
Sorry for this terrible experience bro. You need to tweak up your installation if you must continue to use Solar and Inverter while living in that building. 1. You need a rain sensor switch. Most rain-sensing devices work by accumulating a set amount of rainfall before a switch is activated that interrupts the circuit from the controller and shuts off the system. 2. You need a contactor style of ATS that disconnects your Grid Input once Grid is Off which is most likely to happen once it starts to rain. Also in the same box, you will integrate a PV Rapid Shutdown Contactor that will be connected to the Rain Sensor. Once the sensor gives the command, these contactors will shut off all inputs to your Inverter. 3. You need to drive a 6ft or 8ft earth rod into the ground and use it as your earth if the building does not belong to you. 4. You need the appropriate SPDs, AC & DC RCBO MCBs for your PV, Inverter and Home loads. By appropriate I mean the amperage ratings must be appropriate to you devices. Eg. Don't go putting a 63A MCB between grid and your Inverter when your Inverter Input Current is rated 25A Max. 5. You need an experienced electrical personnel to do this connections. No need to go this route if you will not use a qualified technician to install them. Though this might sound expensive, It's better than replacing or repairing your Inverter every rainy season. It's a must in Renewable Energy if you must use it. RickyM: |
Exactly my concern too. Going to bury 4 rods is like treating the symptom rather than curing the disease. Of course it might make the leaks to neutral line to hide itself but that doesn't mean it went away. IT WILL SIMPLY FLOW TO EARTH AND YOU WILL HAVE ENERGY LOSS. SOMETIMES WE MISTAKE SOME OF THESE LOSSES AS IDLE CONSUMPTIONS bigrovar: |
SEE ATTACHED PICTURES, NOTE THAT THERE WILL BE ENERGY LOSSES NO MATTER HOW HE CHOOSE TO STRING HIS PANELS Drgreatone:
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