Jonescosmos's Posts
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tivta:Batteries are doing great so far. I have done upto 90% DOD with them batteries. Last time I checked, they had like 35, 46, 35, 60 cycles respectively. They are expected to reach the 6000 cycles as advertised. |
munchies:In some scenarios yes it can. Some inverters don't accept grounding DC and AC Circuits to the same rods. They will trigger error of current leak and that's gonna shut down the output of the inverter. I have come to realize that the best practice of grounding Hybrid Inverters is to drive down two rods at the same spot like 15cm apart 10ft below earth surface. Use one for DC circuits and one for AC circuits. Now before them earth professionals come at me for this. It's been approved by NEC. It has also recently saved my ass just last week here ooo. Finished installation and inverter started tripping at Error F23 (Deye 8kw) until I separated the AC Earth Rod and buried another earth rod same location and used it as DC earth rod. |
mctfopt:Oh yes. You are right. I'm sure we will get there soon. |
brightk:If prerequisites are bean respected and checked out before installation, the only support you will be giving to your clients is to go and blow off dusts from the units, washing the solar panels, etc. There would be absolute no need for anything to go south. Installers that will not insist that their clients do proper earth, load separation, install voltage and surge protectors, install fuses and breakers, use the appropriate wire guages, conduct energy survey at clients property, etc. That installer is bound to attract arguments or quarrels afterwards. |
Mavor:2x 8KW Deye Hybrid Inverters EU-Version. 4x 15KW Felicity LPBF48300 Battery Packs. 16x 600W Canadian Solar Panels. 10x 540W Felicity Solar Panels. 8x 625w Jinko Solar Panels (to be added this weekend) Installation is almost 2 years old. Try to use present market prices to cost it incase you are considering a similar setup.
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HeavenlyBang:Go for Deye. They are built to last. Very solid. If you must consider any voltronic based hybrid inverter, go for Growatt. I would not recommend anything less than these two for VALUE FOR MONEY |
Mavor:Oh, nice. But just for confirmation sakes, use energy meter and check your inverter consumption at different stages. Also check if it retains the inverter mode after unexpected power of. I don't think they're the same according to the model numbers on our labels. Also the didgits indicator is supposed to show you the energy level and not the temperature when you put it in inverter mode. It just displays the temperature like 3 seconds and changes to energy level. But if it behaves alike, then you are good to go. My inverter is Deye |
jonescosmos:
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Mavor:Confirm if your indoor unit has this kind of display when you put it on inverter mode. Notice the Battery Logo under the 0.6KW digit written "INVERTER" inside of it. The difference is, this model retains it's memory of the inverter mode setting when you switch it off and on from either switch or remote controller. Another difference is you can be chilling @16 degrees with less than 600w power. My 1.5hp takes between 620w and 480w @16 degrees in inverter mode. Note the 484-492w on the Smart Load port. This because one of my 1.5hp is presently turned on. I learnt this applies to this NEW GEN COOL B Models (GEN COOL + by LG). I have attached their model stickers for reference.
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Mavor:Oh, great, then you can ignore the extra Panels and MPPT CC as suggested, your are good to go with your plan, But your AC will be your ENEMY is this setup. You must find a way to time it to work only during PEAK SUN HOURS and when Grid is available or better still, replace the AC with the new models LG Dual Inverter 1.5hp (GEN COOL B) you will be glad you did. |
Mavor:I even forgot to ask you. Is this your setup an OFF-GRID or Will you still DEPEND ON GRID sometimes? Because from all other suggestions you are getting, people are ignoring to do a math on how you intend to recharge your 5.12KWh Battery Bank and Power your LOADS at the same time with a less than 5.5KWp Array if you are planning an OFF-GRIS setup. (Oh yes, just because your are installing 10x500w doesn't mean you will get 5.5KWp, don't say I didn't warn you) My suggestions to you were based on OFF-GRID Setup. Matter of fact any solar setup that cannot work 100% off-grid still makes you a slave of the grid. What is worth doing is worth done well. |
Mavor:Add external MPPT between 80A, 100A or 120A to accept the second array. Since your inverter is possibly has 1 MPPT, and might have a PV limit of 6000w max, it's can't charge your battery and power your loads at the same time during sun up. This is because the load you mentioned is between medium to high load, introducing an external MPPT to the setup takes care of the charging during the day. While the inverter utilizes the array connected to it to power your loads and will still charge the battery if your load reduces. |
Mavor:You would need another array of 10x550w Panels connected to an MPPT 80A-120A range added to your setup. Because your planned panel capacity cannot float your 5.12KWh battery in 5 hours (10am-3pm) at NOTC while powering these loads you have mentioned during the day. Secondly, your 5.12KWh battery Bank cannot power all the loads you mentioned throughout sun down hours, say 5pm to 7am (13hrs). You must reduce your consumption during sun down to about 390w or less to be able to use your battery to the next morning. As for your AC, you need to tabulate the wattage rating of your appliances to see what and what you can power simultaneously without overloading your setup. |
funshyboi:WHEN YOUR AC LINE IS FROZEN, THIS IS WHAT IS LIKELY HAPPENING. This can be attributed to several variables. These include low refrigerant, refrigerant leaks, accumulation of dirt on coils, dirty filters, and other restrictions of air flow from your system. Perhaps you have noticed that your AC isn’t quite cooling your home the way it should. Temperatures are rising indoors and you go outside to check your unit and see if you can find the problem. Despite the summer temperatures, you notice that your AC line is frozen and covered in ice. One or more factors might be causing a frozen AC line. Poor Airflow over the Evaporator Coil When the evaporator coils on an air conditioning unit become too cold, the ac unit pipes freeze. This is the primary reason behind frozen AC lines. The evaporator coils inside an air conditioning unit are filled with refrigerant. A properly functioning AC system extracts the warm air from inside your home and sends it through your air conditioner, where the evaporator coils cool the warm air, then redistribute it back into the home. If the airflow leading into the air conditioner is obstructed, it can cause the evaporator coils to become too cold, therefore causing the copper lines attached to your condenser to freeze. Here are some common factors as to why an air conditioning system can develop poor airflow: Dirty Air Filter You should be changing your air filter on a monthly basis. If it becomes dirty and clogged, it will prevent air from flowing through the unit and allow the coils to freeze. Supply Vents are Closed Some homeowners assume that closing supply vents in rooms that aren’t being used will put less stress on their unit and lower their utility bills. However, this practice can limit air flow and lead air conditioners to freeze. Return Vents are Blocked Vents are also used to suck air into the unit and play an important role in proper air flow These can also become blocked and cause the unit to malfunction. Broken Fan or Blower A broken fan won’t be able to send enough air over the evaporator coil. The fan is responsible for not only pulling warm air into the system but also pushing cold air into the home through the ductwork and vents. When something goes wrong with the blower motor or fan, your AC system will stop working properly, it will become difficult to cool your home and your AC line could freeze. Dirty Evaporator Coil Just as dirt can block the air filter and cause problems, a dirty evaporator coil will also prevent proper air flow. Regular maintenance will help you avoid this problem. What to do: Regardless of the refrigerant leak cause, it’s nearly impossible for a homeowner to resolve the problem independently. Refrigerant is a dangerous chemical, and only professional technicians should handle it. Nevertheless, to troubleshoot any of these potential issues, follow these steps. 1. First, check your vents. These include the air vents that push air into your spaces and the return vents that pull air back through your AC system. Make sure they are clean, open, and unobstructed. 2 Then, check your air filter to ensure it is clean and allows air to flow through. AC system air filters will be inside of your return vents. When you open the vent cover, visually inspect the filter. If it is brown or covered in dirt and lint that you can see, it’s probably time to replace it. 3. Next, you’ll check the blower fan for your air conditioner. To do this, go to the thermostat that controls the AC unit and switch it from COOL to OFF. Then, locate the fan controls on the thermostat and switch the fan from AUTO to ON. When your fan is “ON,” it will blow air even if the AC isn’t running a cooling cycle. Doing so means more warm air will blow over the evaporator coils to help defrost the pipes. Leave the fan ON and the AC system OFF for 3 to 4 hours before turning the system back to COOL. 4. If you still see ice on the pipes after completing the first 3 steps, it’s time to call in experts. An AC technician can inspect your vents and the inside of your AC system to see if they are the cause of your issue. |
RickyM:0. NIGERIAN FACTOR: (Yes, read it again, NIGERIAN FACTOR) In Nigeria, a seller will inflate the price of an item based on the frequency of sales of that particular item. Naturally 60-cell panels are gradually being deprecated so it's meant to be cheaper than any other higher cell up to 144-cells So your question should be: WHY ARE PEOPLE BUYING MORE 60-cell panels against 72-cell panels? 1. Client Category: 60-cell solar panels are much more common for residential solar installations, while 72-cell solar panels are more commonly used for commercial or other large-scale projects. There are a few key differences between the two that will impact which option you choose, regardless of whether you're installing for your home or business. 2. Dimensions: 72-cell solar panels have more photovoltaic cells, therefore, they are larger than 60-cell panels. When it comes to dimensions, 60-cell panels are usually built six cells wide and ten cells tall. 72-cell panels are also six cells wide but have an additional two rows of cells that make them a bit taller. What does this translate to in feet and inches? 60-cell solar panels have an average dimension of roughly 5.4 ft by 3.25 ft. 72-cell panels will roughly be the same width and average around 6.5 ft in height. This extra space can make a big difference when it comes to your solar system design. If you have plenty of uninterrupted roof space or a lot of land for a ground-mounted installation, you can likely go with 60 or 70-cell panels. But, if you're going to have limited space for installation or a more complicated layout (such as a lone panel on a dormer or a small garage to fit a few panels), most installers are going to recommend 60-cell panels. Because they're smaller, they'll be able to fit in more tight spaces that may not work for a 72-cell panel. The same is true for roofs that are narrow - if your local jurisdiction or fire department has strict setback codes for solar arrays, 60-cell panels may also be the better option because they are shorter. A lot will depend on the specifics of your roof and your preferences for the layout of your array, so it's a good idea to talk to an installer about your options. 3. Cost of installing: The cost of installing 60-cell vs. 72-cell panels may also vary a bit for your installation. 72-cell solar panels tend to be cheaper to install on a large scale, which is why they're more common for commercial applications. Because each panel has more solar cells, you can typically install fewer panels to generate the same amount of electricity. Fewer panels mean less racking is necessary, which helps cut down on overall equipment and installation costs. On the other hand, 60-cell panels are lighter and easier to install, which is why they're more common for residential rooftop installations. This can mean lower labor costs for the installation. For large commercial installations, the extra size and weight of a 72-cell panel aren't as much of an obstacle because cranes are often used to lift the equipment to the rooftop. 4. Wattage and power output: 72-cell panels can have higher wattages and power output than 60-cell panels because of the additional photovoltaic cells, but that's not always the case. In fact, the number of cells in a panel doesn't have a direct correlation to its power output. The power output of a panel is more dependent on the quality and durability of the solar cells themselves. 5. Other factors to consider when choosing solar panels: For cost, it's a good idea to compare your 60-cell and 72-cell panel options on a cost-per-watt ($/W) basis. Similar to looking at dollars per square foot when shopping for a home, looking at $/W shows you what the cost of a turnkey solar panel installation is on a per-watt basis. Looking at this factor will allow you to standardize the price of installations using either 60-cell or 72-cell panels, especially if you're comparing different system sizes. The biggest difference between a 60 cell and 72 cell panel is that 72 cell panels are about 12″ longer. Due to their larger size, 72 cell panels contain 12 more solar cells than 60 cell solar panels. This often makes 72 cell panels a better value on a cost per watt basis than 60 cell panels. |
easyyoke:I used some certain DC Energy Meter I bought from someone on this platform. Like the one attached.
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easyyoke:16x600W Canadian Solar Panels (ARRAY 1 = 8X600w, ARRAY 2 = 8X600W) 10x540W Felicity Solar Panels (ARRAY 3 = 10X540W) it's a 15KWp Design and I get as much as 14KW sometimes.
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kristien4:First disconnect the battery and read the battery voltage across the battery terminals. If you get the reading, see if it meets minimum startup voltage for your Inverter. If yes, Battery is OK. If no reading or reading extremely lower than nominal voltage, battery is gone. If you have multiple batteries, try to read them individually. If all the batteries checks out, open up your inverter and see if it has an inbuilt fuse, or any other blown components, sniff around the inverter mainboard and feel strange smell from, if yes, confirm that the fuse is OK or blown out. If the fuse is blown replace it and try your connection again. |
swagifted:Same here ooo. Inverters even abandoned the Grid.
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nicodemusic:You may have to return the Charging Amp of the CC, I asked you to adjust your Inverter Charging Current, Not your Charge Controller. Just return your CC Current back to 60A because that is dependent on the amount of Solar Energy you have from your Panels. |
It's not working. Total piece of crap. |
joseph4sales:You will need like 3 days or more to get them fully charged with your intended solar panels. |
chris81964:I did it myself, perhaps some people are in Abuja that does it also. |
QuoteJust1nce:Perhaps you should do an energy survey first to know your peak energy requirement. This is what I did before deciding on the capacity of my setup. The tool in the attached picture can help you or simply install a smart meter and study your consumption for sometime.
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Juror:Anyone who has build a Battery Bank with this JK BMS should share Tech Specs and Pictures please. It must be housed in a well fabricated metal casing. I need 2 units of 20KW LiFePo4 ASAP |
nicodemusic:Unfortunately there is no known brand as PZ, I found out this website with their office in Benin City, Edo State https://www.pzenergytech.com/ This is just a rebranded Voltronic Entry Point Inverter. I'm afraid you might not be able to change any settings on the unit. Please contact the seller or the company via that website to provide support to reduce the charge rate. |
nicodemusic:Inverter Brand ![]() |
nicodemusic:Press the Enter Button and Hold it. What brand of inverter is it, do you have the manual? Rising Voltage and Dropping Amperage during charge is very normal. |
nicodemusic:Try to reduce the AC charge rate of your inverter to 20A max so that you don't evaporate your distilled water and endanger the batteries further. Please note that your Charge Amperage is meant to reduce to 0A as your battery charges. Once you hit 0A, it is assumed that your battery is full and no longer taking charge. |
brightk:Buzz me up 0 8 0 3 3 2 5 2 1 8 4 |
brightk:Whole House, Nothing is spared. 4x 45Ltr Water Heaters 6x 1.5HP Inverter AC 1x 320Ltr Standing Freezer 2x 450Ltr Inverter Fridges 1x Water Dispenser 4x 65Inches TVs 5x All-in-One Desktop Computers 1x ML10 Gen 9 Server About a 800w Network Equips and CCTV 10x 30W Flood Lights 16x 26w Energy Saver bulbs 1x 300w Chandelier 1x Microwave Oven 1x Deep Fryer 1x Blender 2 Burner Electric Cooker 2x 1hp pumping machines 3x Laptops 2x 50W Extractor Fans, turned on at Power Room Temperature above 35 Degrees Celsius, turns off once temperature drops to 30 Degrees. ETC. (Phones Chargers, 4 Rechargeable Wall Fans, Others) NOTE: All these I have tested real time on a sunny day and I was good. Grid is available but only turned on automatically by a contactor powered by a Photocell sensor on really cloudy days. So i could say that i am partially OFF-GRID. All Water Heaters and 4ACs are connected as smart loads and configured to turn off once Battery SOC drops to 50% and no Solar Power. DIY battery packs are great, but I like data/communication and i am yet to see any assembly that have included RS232, RS485, CAN, and etc ports. Bluetooth options as integrated in most DIY packs is great but is limited to your presence near the installations to be able to get data. So I intend to re-use the casings I have now in the future if i eventually need to replace my cells. |
nicodemusic:You still haven't mentioned whether your setup is On-Grid or Off-Grid. For the panels, let's use a common logic. If 4 panels could give you 4.25kwh, 6 panels will give (6x4.25)/4 = Approx 6.4kwh. So with your experience with your setup so far, 6 Panels of daytime energy of 6.4kwh should be able to float your battery of 4.8kw in 5hrs. REMEMBER THAT YOUR CONNECTION IS 3S2P (3 panels in series in 2 places or strings, then you parallel the 2 strings) In all fairness to your setup, I must be blunt to inform you that your battery might have been affected by a prolonged undercharging. Thus the reason for not lasting long enough with a load of 500w. You will need to charge the batteries with an AC source (Charge till Full SOC), Observe how long it lasts with your 500w load after this, then you can judge the status of the batteries. |
