₦airaland Forum

mctfopt:
All the guys complaining of the reasons mentioned why Yohako lithium batteries is shìt, SHOULD NOT TALK, they should SHOW us by doing a rebuttal video. If they can't they should shut the fùck up!

I believe we should be able to make our opinions without being vulgar.
As par the yohako battery, it is better we separate the issues.

The battery not being able to serve the setup in which it failed was not in anyway yohako's fault. It was the installer that missed the basic physics as stated. If he had paid attention to the max discharge then he could've sized appropriately but as stated, the client seemed constrained with funds and he got what he paid for.

Whatever cells yohako had used in that battery would've reflected in their pricing too, except if they overstated the capacity and hid important details, I don't think there's a need to crucify them, they even stated the max charge and discharge which is usually a pointer. They have their target market, not everyone can shell out funds for BYD or even felicity which I think yohako should be cheaper than.

mctfopt:
It does take measurements of say battery voltage which you can get from any voltage meter. But it doesn't really tell you accurately if a battery is weak or not

It doesn't do just voltage though.

Obnoxious2001:
No.
But the comparison was done using a good battery and a bad battery (there was a duration test first ).

The bad one came out good..

What the battery analyser does is try to read the internal resistance of the battery.
For a new batteries, SoH of about 85-100% is acceptable because of self discharge in storage while internal resistance of about 1.0 - 3.0mΩ is acceptable.

Note that the lower the internal resistance the better.

Yes, I think it relies on the internal resistance vis a vis state of charge to make the verdict, so, except we're saying the measurement is wrong then maybe it's still close.

dollarnaira:
Care to share?
08133 nine three 2627

Someone shared their contact already and you acknowledged.

durodee:
A video to watch.https://www.facebook.com/reel/2774148709411698?s=chYV2B&fs=e&mibextid=f7oaF0
Lots of claims but I wonder how long before the bubble burst?

Couldn't access the url

dollarnaira:
Gbam!!!

I saw the nairaland notification on nairaland but I don't have access to the email any more and nairaland no gree us change email

brightk:
hi everyone,, am having a hard time choosing between canadian 600w panel, jinko 550w and 580w panel.. am on a tight budget and want to replace some old sticker panels i have...

i would appreciate your comments..

thanks

You may need to consider their dimension too, for easier handling, especially if they're going on your roof.

Obnoxious2001:
This battery Analyser is not accurate

Did you review it personally? What did you compare it with ?

mctfopt:
I have this tester, and I can confidently tell you it ain't reliable.

Why do you say so? I believe it takes some measurements, are the measurements wrong ?

dollarnaira:
@juror
Pls how do I get SRNE pwm cc?

From the main SRNE distributor.

Ferdiwar:
Yes of course, the inverter is designed to work with other batteries too.

To manually set the charge profile you'll have to select either battery voltage or % (frame 1) and adjust the charge parameters accordingly (frame 2).

I got the battery @1.350m.

Edit: sorry I couldn't upload the pictures

Ok, does the inverter show any other details about the battery, like the cell voltages, temperature etc?

Hybrid600:
Werey landlord! Na this kind behaviour dey make tenants sell landlord house.

If you were in his shoes you may also think twice.

mctfopt:
That landlord na thief.

He should buy panels, if that is what he wants

He is most likely concerned about damage to his roof during removal.

Ferdiwar:
I had almost same issue with my system (5kva Deye inverter and 5kwh Deye lithium battery), the communication cable was not properly plugged so there was no communication with the inverter and the battery so the readings was off.
The inverter kept pumping current to the battery till the BMS shuts down and stops charging and battery SOC on the inverter will read 60% while the battery indicator suggest charge above 80%, I reached out to the guys at Xtra power where I bought the battery and was asked to confirm the connection which solved the issue after I reconnected the cable.

You need to establish communication between the inverter and the batteries to enable the inverter have a proper information on the battery or try and play around with the settings.

Could you have set the charge settings manually on the inverter as backup instead of relying solely on the coms?

It's nice to see Deye lithium around, how much was it?

isangjohnson:
You really need to take your time and check your setup.
In my opinion, the inverter and pv do not match the the battery capacity.
1. Putting 13.2kw pv for 10kwh battery bank plus day time loads require constant monitoring even when all the charging parameters has been set correctly. You never can't tell when the peak sun will pull down more power and when the battery will heat up.... Don't forget most of these readymade coupled batteries do not have enough holes for ventilation plus the area we usually placed our batteries.
My experience yesterday: After carrying out capacity test of 160ah 48v lifepo4 battery I coupled for a friend, I started charging the battery all over again, pumping about 2000w into the battery while other house loads took their share of power from my 4.05kw pv. In the afternoon, I realized the Jbd bms temperature was 37°C which is nothing to worry about but I wasn't comfortable with it as the bms didn't come with an external temperature sensor. I quickly switched on my Victron Smart BMV and saw 80°C. Immediately, I switched on the 1Hp AC to reduce the amps that were going into the battery and the temperature started coming down to recommended value. If I was to rely on the bms, something may have gone wrong...
The main killer of lithium and lead acid battery is HEAT.
We should not also forget that most of these readymade coupled batteries do not have smart bms with bluethooth and most of the bluethooth do not have external temperature sensor.

2. You may not have any issue with your batteries. I guess 9.6kwh is about 195Ah 48v.
If I'm right, then the 2000w loads on the battery can only sustain you for about 5 hours when the battery is fully charged to 55.2v (3.45v each cell).
If the idle power consumption of the 18kw inverter wasn't factored into the 2000w, then expect about 4 hours run time from the fully charged battery.
I MAY BE WRONG.

I think he used 4 units for the setup

isangjohnson:
The lightning hit this inverter. Please where can I fix it?

Did the surge take the hit ?

Ferdiwar:
Yes they are in Abuja @ below address

Solarco Nigeria.
Wuse 2 no 5 kampala street, Abuja.

Thanks

mctfopt:
I usually liken batteries in series to a chain links that made up a chain, if a particular link is weak, the chain is now as strong as that weakest link.

Eg I remembered when one of the cells in my 16s 48v ebike'$ battery got lower than others, this lead to the bms cutting off supply to the motor when I'm riding it. This is super annoying, thankfully my BMS has Bluetooth so it was easy to fish out the rogue cell and charge it separately and we are good to go again. Battery pack is still performing wonderfully till date.

Which cells did you use and what's the total capacity?
Can you share a picture of the battery?

Ferdiwar:
Thanks for this piece, na to calm down complete the money buy the Deye stackable battery jejely as they're the only ones with specs with that of the manufacturer of the cells out of the 4 options I have (Deye, Dyness, Nruit and Felicity).

Is the vendor local?
Please share their contact.

casualobserver:
By that logic, all CATL cells on the market are grade B cells. The only way you can get a true grade A CATL cell is either in an EV or in a battery from a reputable battery manufacturer, in short there is no way for you and I or any Retailer to get his hands on a true grade A CATL cell. While it is true there are a lot of dodgy Eve cells on the market, you can get certified automotive grade Eve cells, you can even buy from Eve directly but ALL the CATL cells on the market are rejected cells. So I would say buying a CATL cell is perhaps more risky than buying an Eve cell because you know for certain it is a rejected cell..

If you read the solar forums and look at the places that have emerged as the source for reliable cells (including certified automotive grade) in their respective countries e.g Sunfunkits in the US, fogstar in the Uk, gobelpower in china, Nkon in the Netherlands, none of them stock or even advertise grade A CATL…because they aren’t available on the market. Of these the only ones who sell CATL clearly state they are grade B cells.


Once you are dealing with grade B which constitutes most of the batteries on the market, you are at the mercy of 1) quality of the cell, I.e you hope it is what they say it is 2) the cells match so they perform well together in a pack.

I would suggest that you disavow yourself of the notion that because the EVE market has been bastardized, CATLs on the market are any better.


As for the different battery choices,

That a battery contains a particular brand of cells does not mean they contain grade A of that brand. Felicity uses CATL for some of their LpBF batteries, so does this Nruit. However if you check the continuous and maximum discharge specs for CATL cells and compare them with that in the Felicity or Nruit battery, it is clear they both use Grade B cells, perhaps weak grade B. Whereas if you check the spec for Eve cells and check the specs for the Deye battery it would suggest the Deye battery contain grade A certified cells. TheDeye I checked has recommended continuous of .5 c , Maximum continuous charge of 1c and peak of 1.5c whereas the recommended and max continuous max charge for the Nruit is 0.5c or less which is usually a sign of lower grade cells.

I didn’t check the dryness but between the Deye and the Nruit, it’s a no brainer…for me.

1st pic Deye. 2nd and 3rd pics are the cells in the Nruit and what a grade A CATL 240 ah should be able to handle.

detailedobserver !

isangjohnson:
With this price, the capacity should be up to date.

That price is most likely for the F grade, the A grade cost way more than that from same felicity.

Ferdiwar:
Ok, I'll have to wait for them to have the 5kwh in stock as they currently have only the 9kwh and 12kwh.

Thank you

What's the cost of the 9kwh?

dollarnaira:
I need a pwm with lithium settings or adjustable settings. Pls help with a brand or brandless...

SRNE

jonescosmos:
Nigeria and their haphazard way of doing things.
Last year, the same event took place at the same venue. This year it's here again at the same venue. With little or no publication or adverts, how do people outside Lagos participate? For Example, I can count myself among the first 100 Nigerians who are glued to the news. I didn't come across this except that you have just mentioned it here.

Why won't we emulate other countries in things like this?

For example take a look at MikroTik User Meeting https://mum.mikrotik.com/

this is just one out of many international events. Then our own local events, we can't even rotate it around Nigerian States. What a shame.

Majority of the publicity I saw came from the brands themselves.

Immanuelar:
Hello gurus,
Please I'm about getting some solar materials from justcallmenu.el here. I would like to be sure if anyone has patronised the seller without regrets in terms of quantity. Main concern is that some prices he gave me are much cheaper than what installation engineers quoted. E.g he stated 10kwh felicity lit battery as #1.35m against #1.7m quoted by engineer; felicity 5kva hybrid inverter as 350k against 550k quoted by engineer.
This is nothing personal, just making enquiries before purchasing an expensive item.
Tnx.

Felicity has many pricing levels, many grades for same product (some products have grade A cells, some refurbished etc), you'll also notice difference in their packaging and label codes LPBR, LPBF etc, and also their products in the market come from many sources.
Some products could also be orphans, if you're familiar with new phones, there are phones tagged "Nigerian warranty" and they cost quite more.

So, both prices could be for different products or for same product with different sources.

That said, I can't comment on the sources of your installer or the seller.

FEGEITOK:
Very likely.

Read his previous posts.

He moves a lot of products.

Most installers cannot handle match him price for price and quantity for quantity.

As a general rule, the more you can buy or you buy, the cheaper you can buy or buy

Don't judge a book by it's covers.

isangjohnson:
Is the 15 to 20 years warranty on the same lifepo4 battery we've been using and with how many life cycle?
I just hope they were not deceiving the masses.
There are a lot of discussions on issue of Eve grade A cells in other forums that Eve does not cell grade A to those marketers (vendors) we usually buy from.....
I'm hoping to know the life cycle, the unit price/capacity, the company (Eve, Reph, CATL) of this very product in questions.

I can vouch for the eve cells I got from Deriy, at least the qr codes confirmed them.

Peterlove11:
1.1TB within 2weeks?. Damn. That's unlimited and far better than starlink. Have been using Airtel ODU for the past 2 months and it's good but isnt unlimited. I hope our telecoms will transit from data cap to speed cap subscriptions with unlimited data usage like this MTN fibre

Does the airtel ODU have Ethernet or it's just WiFi ?

Dam5reey:
It should be experience now.

In 2021 someone quote me to ask if LFP has lived more than 3 years. Today I saw the post I just laughed..

Yes, Knowledge could be as a result of experience too.

durodee:
I just dey laugh since I read this. You know this battery issue is like marriage. You choose who you want and to you they are the best. All I know is that my oldest Lithium battery is more than 2 years now and life has never been this sweet since I started my renewable journey about 12 years ago.
Over the years, I used both wet and sealed, semi-dry lead acid batteries, with the attendant up and downs. I also use domestically and for business, balancing the tug of MORE/ LATEST of an hobbyist and the PRAGMATISM of balancing the books in business had become an art for me.
For learners and fresh, small sized users, there is no harm in going that route of lead acid first to learn the ropes BUT if you are planning on a 2kVA and above inverter system, the most reasonable and cost effective path is straight to Lithium. That is the only path that makes business sense in my experience.

With the knowledge I have now, I would prefer to recommend a 12V 100A lithium battery than a 12V 200Ah lead acid(top brands), and their prices are not too far off.

Justice629:
Original tier 1 JASolar bifacial panels installed with similar results as my old questionable panel grade in this dark cloudy days.

Are you sure those are bifacial? Can you share more pictures, because the picture above doesn't look like it.

Penuelseun:
When battery is full, the charge controller reduces charge current while maintaining battery voltage, if load is connected, the load will be powered entirely by solar until load demand is greater than what solar can produce then battery supplies energy again.
It is an entirely different case if mains power is present as your inverter will change power source to mains thereby ignoring solar unless it is user editable to prioritize solar over mains power

This is correct.