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Engine sludge can be a very serious problem. Drivers whose cars develop engine sludge will often spend hundreds of dollars on costly repairs. Before you learn how to remove engine sludge, you need to know exactly what it is. Engine sludge develops on and around your vehicle’s motor when oil begins to break down and collects on the engine. When engine sludge is present, oil is not able to properly lubricate the moving parts of your vehicle’s motor. Some of the main causes for the buildup of engine sludge are stop and go driving and short commutes.

No matter what type of vehicle you drive or what your driving habits are, it is important to perform routine maintenance on your vehicle to prevent engine sludge. If you suspect that your vehicle has developed engine sludge, there are several simple tests that will help you make that determination.

4 Simple Steps to Identify Engine Sludge
[1]Crank your vehicle. Check your dashboard to see if your check engine light is on. Also check for your oil change notification light. Either of these lights could be signals of engine sludge.

[2]Turn off your vehicle and pop the hood. Walk to the front of your vehicle, open the hood and properly support it so that you can look at your vehicle’s engine.

[3]First, look for any signs of oil splatter or engine sludge on the outside of your vehicle. Engine sludge looks like thick, dark oil and generally appears in small clumps. If you see engine sludge on the exterior of your engine, it is highly likely that you have an engine sludge problem.

[4] take a look inside your oil pan. Remove the oil cap from your oil pan and peer inside. You may need a flashlight to be able to see clearly. The contents of your oil pan should appear clean. Although the walls and parts will be covered in oil, they should still appear metallic silver underneath. Any sign of engine sludge in the oil pan is an indicator of high levels of engine sludge in your motor.

By administering these simple tests, you should be able to determine if your car has engine sludge. If you found any sign of sludge during the above tests, you will need to ensure that the sludge is removed from your vehicle as soon as possible. The cost of having engine sludge removed from your vehicle will depend on the severity of the problem. In cases where engine sludge has developed to the point that a car no longer runs, the entire engine will have to be replaced. There are several things you can do at home to prevent costly repairs due to engine sludge.

Do you have oil spots in your driveway, or a leaky engine block when you look under your vehicle? Sorry, super bad news: you might have a rear main seal leak. In fact, few words from the mechanic will stop every driver in their tracks quicker than “You have a rear main seal leak!”

A rear main seal leak is among the worst things that can happen to any vehicle because the rear main seal is very hard to reach and it requires much of your engine to be disassembled. On most modern engines, the seal’s failure is due to a condition inside the engine or a component connected to the back of the engine, and is most common in older cars.

For many drivers, news of such a problem means that it could be time to purchase a new vehicle, because rear main seal repair typically costs more than the value of vehicles old enough to develop such leaks.

Replacing a rear main seal is absolutely one of the most dreaded, most labor-intensive and expensive jobs you can do on your car next to replacing the head gaskets or rebuilding your transmission.

In addition, there are no shortcuts or quick fixes if the seal has expired. A replacement isn’t something you’re going to want to take on yourself and even a seasoned mechanic can struggle with it as it’s in a painfully difficult position.

[1]The Engine Won’t Start
It’s the most common engine-related problem that car owners face frequently. If the problem is with the battery, the engine will make a clicking sound but won’t crank. On the other hand, a car with fuel or ignition problem will crank but won’t start. Some of the reasons for which an engine won’t start are discharged battery, corroded battery cables, faulty fuel pump, blocked fuel filter, ignition switch breakdown, and failure of starter motor relay.

[2]Overheating
A low coolant level is a culprit for the overheating problem. A burnt out radiator, clogged hoses, broken engine thermostat, loose or broken plugs, and a leaking coolant system, blown or cracked head gasket can cause the overheating problems. Repeated overheating can cause severe engine damages.

[3] Stalling
Stalling of a car while driving is related to engine problems. A car that suddenly stops in the middle of the road is a major safety hazard. In fact, minor hesitation can cause accidents if it’s a busy street or tricky, rocky road.
Problems in the fuel line, fuel filter, and spark plugs might be the reasons of stalling and hesitations. However, they may not always be related to the engine, but you should have it examined by a professional mechanic.

[4]Smoke or Steam
A smoking engine is never a good news. You should immediately take your car to an auto repair shop if such problem arises. The problem can happen because of worn gaskets, bad cylinders, damaged rings, poor crankcase, and using wrong oil grade

[5]Noises
Sometimes, engine problems give you warnings through noises. If you notice any weird or unique sound along with knocking or vibrations, you should pay attention. Such noises and vibrations can indicate to a weak starter, worn out timing belt, or other serious engine problems.

[6] Oil Issue
Neglecting the importance of regular oil change is responsible for one of the most common engine problems. When you don’t change the oil as necessary, your engine gradually starts losing its efficiency and at one point, then stops working.

To keep your engine running smoothly, you must pick the right sort of oil. You may consider using synthetic oil to get the best out of your engine. And, this is also recommended by many leading car manufacturers at present. Synthetic oil costs only a few bucks more than your regular oil. You may not want to see your engine failing out in the middle of nowhere, for only a few dollars. Right? Moreover, read our maintenance tips from our experts in order to get more information about oil issue, which could help you easily troubleshooting this problem.

[7]Lack Of Coolant
The next in the series of frequent car engine problems is a problem with the cooling system. The standard practice is flushing the engine coolant after every 30,000 miles or 3 years.

This is nothing in comparison to the costs of upgrades or replacements of spare parts. Generally, vehicle owners tend to decide on coolant flush until they have been prescribed to do so by a maintenance service provider. As a result, the parts where the coolant is used degrade before their normal lifespan.

A simple engine troubleshooting is keeping an eye for an overheating engine. A low coolant level is a culprit for the overheating problem. A burnt out radiator, clogged hoses, broken engine thermostat, loose or broken plugs, and a leaking coolant system, blown or cracked head gasket can cause the overheating problems. If you still keep driving the car, there is a chance that your engine will be permanently damaged.

Some other internal engine problems responsible for overheating are: malfunctioned cooling fans or a clogged cooling system. If you have the engine mended right away, more rigorous and expensive methods like replacing or rebuilding the engine will not be necessary.

[8] Water In The Engine
Driving your car through high waters or heavy rainstorm can damage the engine badly. If water enters the engine, it may bend the piston rods, leaving your engine in shattered conditions. Often the water can reach the combustion chamber passing through the intake manifold. Remember, this is where the spark plug is located. So, as soon as water passes through you can face engine problems caused by one of the above or all of them.

[9] Smoke Or Steam
A smoking engine is never a good news, no matter what color smoke you see. You should immediately take your car to an auto repair shop if such problem arises. The problem can happen because of worn gaskets, bad cylinders, damaged rings, poor crankcase, and using wrong oil grade. For that reason, always pay attention of your engine is highly recommended. However, most of cars from Japanese brands like Honda, Suzuki, Toyota, Mitsubishi,… are produces with good engines and high quality accessories to avoid white smoke.

[10]Abnormally Loud
Sometimes, engine problems give you warnings through noises. If you notice any weird or unique sound along with knocking or vibrations, you should pay attention. Such noises and vibrations can indicate to a weak starter, worn out timing belt, or other serious engine problems. In this case, you should probaly take your car to a mechanic who will help you determine exactly the reason behind.

[11]Stalling
Stalling of a car while driving is related to engine problems. A car that suddenly stops in the middle of the road is a major safety hazard. In fact, minor hesitation can cause accidents if it’s a busy street or tricky, rocky road.

Problems in the fuel line, fuel filter, and spark plugs might be the reasons of stalling and hesitations. However, they may not always be related to the engine, but you should have it examined by a professional mechanic.

Your car is nothing but a useless heap of metal without a working engine. So, don’t ignore if any of these common engine problems occurs anytime. Besides, take the car to the repair shop for regular diagnosis so that it gives you service for a long time.

What was a “regular” spark plug years ago has drastically changed with today’s spark plugs. All spark plugs today are enhanced for performance. Spark plugs work to create sparks within the engine, to keep the engine running. Each one has threads, which work to seal off the chamber where the combustion takes place. Ceramic insulators surround and contain the electrodes. The insulator protects the ignition voltage. The insulator also acts as a transport of the heat and directs it to the cooling system. Ceramic makes up the insulator.

A regular spark plug has an alloy made from chromium nickel to help diminish corrosion. These types of plugs contain a copper core electrode center, with a very high melting point. Iridium spark plugs are made with a hard metal. These have an iridium tip welded on to give the best fuel economy. The center is very small in diameter than the nickel alloy spark plugs, to focus a more concentrated spark, but with less voltage. These spark plugs are gentle on the ignition system and help to preserve the life of the ignition system through a throttle response that enhances the action. It has a very high melting point at over 4,000 degrees Fahrenheit, which is greater than platinum plugs.

Platinum plugs, though they may sound like the premium plugs, are actually the low end of spark plugs as far as performance goes. The platinum spark plugs do offer a higher melting point over nickel alloy and this helps to give the vehicle better fuel economy. Platinum plugs are easy on the ignition system like iridium tip plugs. Generally, platinum plugs will last a lot longer, by an average of 4 years over the nickel alloy plugs.

The recommendations are to use platinum spark plugs because they do outlast the ones with copper electrodes. The copper tends to erode and deteriorate faster, then they are ineffective, the vehicle will not start unless you perform a tune-up. However, there are issues that can cause deposit build up on platinum, if the vehicle has other problems that need to be dealt with. This is why it is vital to the life of the vehicle to perform all the routine services as directed in the owner’s manual, to keep the car running well. Keeping the vehicle well maintained with help platinum spark plugs last out their life span.

It’s forgivable to be intimidated by the mechanical goings-on of your car. There is a lot happening under the metal. Thousands of metal and plastic parts that all have to perform in the right way, in the right sequence at the right speed in order to deliver faultless running. It’s an orchestra of engineering, and that’s not something the uninitiated would want to get in the way of. And we understand that.

Furthermore, there is a vast network of garages out there, that will happily help should that orchestra start playing off-key. However, the garages would like to have you think that every single job on your car is one for the professionals, and as such, you should go nowhere near.

But that’s not true. If it were, our guides would be useless. But your trusty Haynes manual isn’t useless, because there is so much you can do to keep your car in rude health, and you can do it yourself, on your driveway, without a mechanic sucking air in through his teeth first.

01 Brakes
Brakes are a wear and tear item, a service part that will need replacing at some point. But they’re not difficult to change. It looks like a lot of work, because you have to get the car up in the air, and you have to take a load of parts off, but in reality, it’s nothing more than a handful of bolts.

You can change the brakes on your own car with the most basic set of tools. It really is that simple. If you’re still not convinced, have a look at the Haynes manual for your car. We’ve been through the brakes in step-by-step detail.

The only extra you should consider getting as a calliper wind-back tool, This will push the piston back into the calliper so you can fit new pads in.

02 Exhaust
Exhausts are generally made of mild steel, at least in OE specification. Being on the bottom of the car, they get hammered by rad salt, water, grit and dirt so over time they corrode and fail. Then you need to fit a new one because if you don’t, your car will sound like a tractor and it will fail its MOT.

Exhausts are not difficult to change. It’s a pain, because you need to get the car up in the air (but we’ve done a guide on that), and you have to work on your back, on the floor. But that’s it. Much like the brakes, you can change an exhaust with a basic set of spanners.

You can buy new exhausts online for a fraction of what a garage will charge, and you can swap a complete system in an hour. Just don’t forget to use exhaust paste in the joins of your new exhaust, so as to avoid any blowing once it’s all fitted up. And also, use new rubbers – never mount a new exhaust on old ones, they’ll just break.

03 Spark Plugs
Some people treat spark plugs like some sort of nitro-glycerine that should only be touched by trained professionals, which is weird because they’re about the simplest thing to change. You literally need one socket (but it has to be a spark plug socket, with a rubber insert to help prevent damage), and that’s it.

Where people go wrong is with the ignition leads, normally by putting them on in the wrong order, thus making the car run like a bag of bolts if it runs at all. Simple solution? Just do one plug, and thus one lead, at a time.

The trick with spark plugs is to know you can be firm when loosening them – they’re subject to many fluctuations in temperature, so they’re going to be wedge in there. They’re designed with this in mind though, so when loosening them, be firm. And when putting new ones in, put them in finger tight first, this way you know you’re not crossing the threads. Simple.

04 Oil Change
Again, changing the oil is one of those jobs that people think you need a PHD for. You don’t. You need one spanner and some axle stands, and that’s about it. You jack the car up, put it on stands, slide underneath it, then crack off the sump plug on the bottom of the engine.

Do this, catch the oil in a suitable container, put the plug back in, take off the filter, put a new filter on, look at your Haynes manual to find out what oil and how much you need, then fill it up via the hole in the top of the engine. Takes fifteen minutes, tops.

The only considerations to make are that you need to dispose of the oil responsibly, so make sure you have a sealable container in which you can take it to your local recycling centre. Also, the oil filter (your Haynes manual will tell you where this is) my need some persuasion.

Buy yourself and oil filter spanner for a tenner and save yourself a world of swearing and skinned knuckles. But remember; only put the new one on hand tight.

05 Suspension
While not a service item, the suspension is ware and tear given the amount of work it has to do. As such, it’s going to need replacing at some point over the vehicle’s life. Many people think this is a specialist job that should be left to a garage, but that’s not the case.

If you are reasonably confident on the spanners, there is nothing specialist about the suspension. What’s intimidating is the amount of work you need to do just to get at it. You need to remove the wheels, the brakes, the brake lines, the wheels hubs and so on. It a lot of work. But none of it is complicated and none of it is a specialist. It’s all nuts and bolts stuff.

Have a look through your Haynes manual, in which we have already taken apart the suspension, and you’ll see that if you take your time, and if you watch what you’re doing and make an effort to keep all your nuts and bolts in order, it’s not a difficult job.

Garages love it though, because it’s labour intensive, which means big bills. But why pay out when you can do it yourself. Have your Haynes manual on hand, a ball joint splitter and plenty of penetrating fluid and you’ll be fine.

Troubleshooting can seem like a mysterious “black art” only practiced by experienced, professional mechanics, when you don't know how certain systems in your car work. Figuring out the problem and solution is simply the result of having the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach.

The brakes on your car are probably the most important system, and due to the difficult job they do and how often they are used, they are also one of the most likely to wear and need service. Even when everything is working properly with your brakes, and nothing is worn out, they can suddenly start making disconcerting noises or develop a shudder under use. Modern cars use a power assist (vacuum or otherwise) hydraulic system, with disc brakes on the front wheels, and discs or drums on the back.

All modern cars come with sophisticated antilock braking systems (ABS) and brake based stability control, which complicates some aspects of troubleshooting and repair, but those systems will inform you when there is a problem and default to the old, simple system. There is also typically a separate, mechanical parking/emergency brake, either cable or electrically operated, that works only on the rear wheels.

Brakes not working well

Even today, your brakes can fail completely, but there are failsafes built into the system to prevent that from happening in most cases. Every car since 1968 has had redundant hydraulic systems, not to mention the parking/emergency brake, to prevent complete brake failure. The master cylinder actually contains two pistons and seals, which in simpler systems controlled the front and back brakes separately, or the diagonally opposite wheels, so at worse you would only lose half your brakes.

Soft Pedal - The brake pedal is easy to push but there is less braking.

Low brake fluid
Air in brake fluid
Bad master cylinder
Bad caliper/wheel cylinder
Blown brake line
Bad residual valve
Fluid leak in system
Boiled brake fluid
Bad wheel bearing
The first thing to check with any brake issue is the fluid level and condition in the master cylinder reservoir. If there is a leak somewhere the fluid level may be so low as to make even the redundant system ineffective. If there is fluid, but it is below the full indication, that may indicate that the friction material on the pads or shoes,or the discs or drums themselves, may be worn beyond effectiveness.

If there is plenty of fluid in evidence, check if it is hot; repeated hard use, towing, descending a steep hill, or a dragging caliper can boil the fluid. DOT 3 brake fluid should not boil until it gets above 400 degrees Fahrenheit, but old brake fluid that has absorbed water can boil at as little as 284 degrees, which is why it needs to be changed every other year.

Brake hydraulics are a sealed system, so there should not be air in the lines, but if after service you have a sponge pedal that is the most likely cause. A bad master cylinder can introduce air into the lines, as can a failure at a caliper or wheel cylinder. The residual valve (often in the master cylinder or proportioning valve) keeps a small amount of pressure in the brake lines so the pedal doesn't have to travel so far until initial engagement; a failure here can be difficult to pinpoint.

Another uncommon cause of a soft pedal and long travel, is a bad wheel bearing, which is unrelated to the brakes except for being in the vicinity of the discs. The failing bearing allows the hub to move around, effectively pushing the brake pads back into the caliper as far as it can.

Hard Pedal - It takes much more pressure to get the same amount of pedal travel and braking force.

Bad servo unit
Vacuum hose leak
Bad check valve
Collapsed vacuum hose
Seized caliper
Extremely worn brake pads
Most instances of a hard pedal come down to a failure in the servo unit system, whether vacuum based or hydro-boost (used mostly on diesels). The servo unit uses engine vacuum to assist your leg when applying the brakes, and is nearly universal in modern cars. If it's the servo unit, check valve, or vacuum hose is bad, it will likely also cause a vacuum leak and rough engine idle as well, but an engine with a bad valve or head gasket can also cause low vacuum which can effect the brake boost.

Another cause of a hard brake pedal can be a brake caliper that is stuck or seized. Typically a seized caliper or pads will cause a burning smell, a pull to one side, and dragging at one wheel, but it is possible for it to stick without those, and effectively lessening your braking by nearly half (if it is a front wheel, which provide 75% of the braking). Wearing your pads down to the metal baking plates will also result in a very "wooden" brake pedal as well, as there is not as much friction when it is metal on metal, and they have to clamp harder to slow you down; the horrible grinding noise is usually an indication before the hard pedal.

Brakes hanging up/dragging
The other major way brakes act up is when they fail to disengage completely in one way or another. A common symptom of this type of braking issue is a burning smell from the amount of heat the hung up brake generates. Seldom does this result in a car that won't move at all, but driving with the brakes dragging is unsafe and will result in even more damage in a short amount of time if not repaired.

Some of the cause of brakes dragging on one or more wheels can be:

Seized caliper/pads
Seized parking brake cable
Rusted disc/drum
Clogged master cylinder return hole
Pinched/collapsed brake line
A seized caliper or brake pads that have become jammed in the caliper is probably the most common failure of this type, and can occur due to age, rust, and salt used on winter roads. Luckily, changing a brake caliper is not a hard job, and can be accomplished in about an hour. The same factors can cause cable operated parking brakes to jam up as well, requiring a replacement of the parking brake cable. The way to prevent these issues is to avoid driving in deep puddles, or areas where salt is used on the roads, but if that isn't an option, be sure to clean the wheels and underside of the car often in winter.

Typically rusted discs or drums only happen when a car has been sitting for a long period. If you are trying to bring a project car back to life, but can't get it to roll, chances are this is the problem.

A clogged fluid return hole in the master cylinder can cause all four wheels to drag, because the fluid sent to the wheels when you press the pedal can't return and let the pressure off. In a similar vein, a pinched hard brake line, or a rubber line that has started to come apart internally can cause the same problem, though localized to one or two wheels.



Other brake issues

Shudder/vibration/pulsing under hard or repeated braking - This is caused by warped/bent rotors, or sometimes just from a localized buildup of pad material on the rotor surface. Resurfacing the rotors, grinding them smooth and flat again, can fix the issue if it isn't too bad, but often warped rotors got that way because they were overheated, and they will warp again when heated.

Squealing/howling/squeaking noise - Typically, an annoying high pitched noise coming from the brakes is the metal "wear indicator" tabs, meant to alert you when there is less than 25% of the pad left. Sometimes brakes can become noisy because of a glaze on the pads from stop and go traffic, which can be fixed with a few hard applications of the brakes to clean it off. Finally, because of the different friction materials, manufacturer tolerances, and random wear factors, pads can suddenly start making noise because they resonate in the range they vibrate at during use. Anti-squeal paste tries to fix this by sticking the pad to the caliper piston, raising the resonance outside of this range.

Sinking pedal - If while sitting at a stop you find the pedal slowly sinking to the floor with your foot on it, you have a master cylinder that is just starting to go bad, or a leak somewhere in the system. But if no leak can be found, it is most likely just one of the rubber seals withing the master cylinder allowing fluid and pressure to sneak by.

[1]Soft Brake Pedal
A soft brake pedal is a MAJOR brake issue. If your brake pedal feels squishy, "like stepping on a plum," and won't stop on the way down unless you pump it, or the brake pedal sinks to the floor with little or no resistance, you have a dangerous situation and should NOT drive any further! If you do, it could be a matter of minutes until you smash into something.

When the brake pedal gets soft or sinks to the floor, it's generally due to a leak in the braking system, most commonly the master cylinder leaking internally or externally and sometimes it likely from the rear wheel or from the front carlipers.

A master cylinder may fail in two ways: internally or externally. If the brake fluid reservoir is full and there are no signs of leaks, the problem is usually an internal problem that you can’t identify just by looking at the master cylinder. Don't drive the car in any case; there is something wrong with your brakes if the pedal is soft.

[2]Car Pulls to One Side When Braking
A car that pulls to one side can be annoying and also dangerous. This braking problem can be caused by several different things, even the tires (see below), but the most common cause is a frozen caliper. Over time, a caliper can freeze up gradually, a process that can go unnoticed for a long period of time.

One way a caliper can freeze up is by the piston on the caliper being stuck in its bore. If the dust boot that protects the piston from the elements gets torn, water and debris will penetrate the metal in the caliper and cause rust and corrosion. If the piston is stuck, and the fluid pressure can't push it back into the bore easily, the pressure on the pads will be uneven and the car will pull. To fix this problem you will need to replace the caliper.

Another possibility is that the pistons got bent, during a brake job or a car accident, and can't move freely anymore, causing the caliper to bind and limiting the amount of pressure to the pads.

The caliper can also freeze up if the caliper slide pins have lost lubrication because they have not been maintained properly. If the slide pins are your problem, they need to be cleaned and lubricated or replaced

[3]Steering Wheel Shakes When Brakes Are Applied
This is a very common brake issue on all makes and models: when you’re driving at highway speeds and you apply your brakes, the steering wheel shakes.

There are many possible causes of this shaking, including the front rotors being warped, hot spots (slight irregularities) on your rotors caused by excessive heat, or pad impressions. If your car sits for long periods without moving, moisture from rain or high humidity causes your rotors to rust, except for the patch of rotor surface where the pads rest. This patch of uneven rotor surface is called a pad impression and will cause the brakes to pulsate.

[4] Brake Pedal Pulses Up and Down When Applying Brakes
If every time you apply your brakes, your brake pedal pulses up and down, the problem is usually caused by the rotors being warped or out of true. As rotors age, they go through the heating and cooling process thousands of times, so it's inevitable for them to lose their shape or trueness. If you do a lot of highway driving and you happen to be hard on your brakes, you will probably run into this problem many times in the life of your car.

[5] Whole Car Shakes When Brakes Are Applied
If your whole car shakes when your brakes are applied, it could be just your rear brakes. As a rule of thumb, shaking caused by a problem in the front end of the car will be felt in the steering wheel, while shaking in the rear will seem to affect the whole car.
To determine if your rear brakes are the problem, you need to test them in isolation.

[1] Change Oil Regularly
Oil is a very important for engine and you should keep changing the oil time to time. The majority of the automobiles need these services every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, some might need it even more frequently. It will be a smart idea to go through the car maintenance schedule for your vehicle which should give you a better idea regarding how often the oil needs to be changed.

[2]Listen for Unusual Noises
Try to listen to some odd noises, if any, while your car is running. For instance, a clicking sound might indicate that a nail is stuck in the vehicle’s tyre. A scraping noise while the brakes are being applied will imply that there is a metal to metal contact since the brake pads have become alarmingly low. In case you fail to comprehend the reason for the noise, it is advisable to contact your nearest car mechanic who will be able to fix the issue easily.

[3]Cooling System Flushes
The engine operating temperature of the car is actually regulated by a cooling system which makes use of a special fluid known as a coolant. You must make certain to free the fluid of any impurities by draining and refilling it at regular intervals.

[4]Drive carefully
It is your responsibility to drive your vehicle in such a manner that it will help to increase the car’s lifespan. For this, you can take several important steps like refraining from changing gears carelessly, avoiding accelerating too quickly, and so forth.

[5]Replacing the Air Filter
In these types of situations, the gas mileage is going to suffer considerably. Some of the modern vehicles also feature a cabin air filter which might get clogged over time due to the accumulation of dirt causing serious problems for your automobile. Consequently, ensure to clean the air filter on a regular basis to avoid any perpetual damage.

WHAT KIND OF SERVICES ARE THERE?

There are several types of servicing available, namely: Basic/ Interim, Full, Major and Manufacturer. What these services include will vary, with more expensive services offering a more complete check. That said, every service from basic onwards will include:

Oil change

Oil filter change

Visual inspection

Check all levels of key fluids (washer fluid, brake fluid, anti-freeze, steering fluid)

Some garages will check brakes on an interim or basic service

When it comes to a full or major service, typically more checks are carried out on the vehicle and any aspects of the car that are not within the manufacturer’s guidelines will be replaced. Depending on the garage, you may have to pay for anything that needs to be replaced that’s not under warranty.

WHAT TYPE OF SERVICE DO I NEED?

What service you require depends largely on the intervals between services and the amount of mileage you’ve put on the vehicle since your last service.A full service is highly recommended although if the vehicle is regularly serviced then a basic service will help to keep it running smoothly and hassle free.

WHY DOES MY CAR NEED SERVICING?

Servicing your car is the best way to ensure that everything is working as it should be. If you don’t have an oil change or continue to use the car with low fluid levels, then you can do some serious damage to the engine.

By not servicing your car you are likely to find that its performance may deteriorate. This may mean that you start to hear strange noises, have little problems with general running and lights start to pop up all over the dashboard.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF REGULAR SERVICING?

If you look after your car then it will look after you. By regularly servicing your vehicle you are likely to see a lot of perks, including increased fuel-efficiency, better handing, improved braking and a smoother running engine.

Additionally, your car is likely to be more reliable as the car has been checked for any faults that may occur. This can save you a small fortune in repair bills down the line and will save you time waiting on the side of the road to have your car fixed.

Probably the most important reason to service your vehicle is to maintain its market value. A full service history can add thousands onto the value of your car and makes it much easier to sell on privately as potential buyers know the car has been looked after.

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF ), also known as transmission fluid or tranny fluid (colloquial ), is the fluid used in vehicles with self-shifting or
automatic transmissions. It is typically coloured red or green to distinguish it from motor oil and other fluids in the vehicle.
The fluid is optimized for the special requirements of a transmission, such as valve operation, brake band friction, and the torque converter, as well as gear lubrication.
ATF is also used as a hydraulic fluid in some
power-assisted steering systems, as a lubricant in some 4WD transfer cases , and in some modern
manual transmissions .


Modern use

Modern ATF consists of a base oil plus an additive package containing a wide variety of chemical compounds intended to provide the required properties of a particular ATF specification. Most ATFs contain some combination of additives that improve lubricating qualities, such as anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, detergents, dispersants and surfactants (which protect and clean metal surfaces); kinematic viscosity and viscosity index improvers and modifiers, seal swell additives and agents (which extend the rotational speed range and temperature range of the additives' application); anti-foam additives and anti-oxidation compounds to inhibit oxidation and "boil-off" [5] (which extends the life of the additives' application); cold-flow improvers, high-temperature thickeners, gasket conditioners, pour point depressant and petroleum dye. All ATFs contain friction modifiers, except for those ATFs specified for some Ford transmissions and specifically excludes the addition of friction modifiers. [3] According to the same oil distributor, the M2C-33 G specification requires fluids which provide improved shear resistance and oxidation protection, better low-temperature fluidity, better EP (extreme pressure) properties and additional seal tests over and above M2C-33 F quality fluids.
There are many specifications for ATF, such as the General Motors (GM) DEXRON and the Ford
MERCON series, and the vehicle manufacturer will identify the ATF specification appropriate for each vehicle. The vehicle's owner's manual will typically list the ATF specification(s) that are recommended by the manufacturer.

Automatic transmission fluids have many performance-enhancing chemicals added to the fluid to meet the demands of each transmission. Some ATF specifications are open to competing brands, such as the common DEXRON specification, where different manufacturers use different chemicals to meet the same performance specification. These products are sold under license from the OEM responsible for establishing the specification. Some vehicle manufacturers will require "genuine" or Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM ) ATF. Most ATF formulations are open 3rd party licensing, and certification by the automobile manufacturer.
Each manufacturer has specific ATF requirements. Incorrect transmission fluid may result in transmission malfunction or severe damage.

A catalytic converter is an exhaust emission control device that converts toxic gases and
pollutants in exhaust gas from an internal combustion engine into less-toxic pollutants by
catalyzing a redox reaction (an oxidation and a reduction reaction). Catalytic converters are usually used with internal combustion engines fueled by either gasoline or diesel —including
lean-burn engines as well as kerosene heaters and stoves.
The first widespread introduction of catalytic converters was in the United States automobile market. To comply with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency 's stricter regulation of exhaust emissions, most gasoline-powered vehicles starting with the 1975

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL?


Two factors determine when you’ll need to change your oil—TIME and MILEAGE, “Both TIME and MILEAGE will allow the oil to break down and become a less effective lubricant for your engine,”

If you can, check the owners manual for specific oil intervals and the type of oil your car needs,The proper oil changes for your specific make and model come from the manufacturer. The rule of thumb for most vehicles, however, is to change your oil after at least 5,000 miles. Still, some cars might only require full synthetic oil changes after 7,500 to 10,000 miles, according to Fix. “For many years, the standard advice was every 3,000 miles or three months, whichever comes first,”But thanks to improvements in modern engines and modern oils, most cars can comfortably drive at least 5,000 miles or even up to 10,000 miles on the same oil.”

For people who aren’t keeping track of their mileage, another way to know it’s time to change your oil is looking at the dipstick. When it’s dark, it’s time to change the oil, Newer cars might even have an oil change light on the dashboard to take out the guessing work. Once you do change your oil, Fix says to opt for the synthetic variety—like this—because it’s a better lubricant. It costs more, but mechanics know you’ll get more miles between changes

TOP CAUSE OF OVERHEATING AND WHAT TO CHECK.

Bad Thermostat -- Severe engine overheating can often damage a good thermostat. If the engine has overheated because of another problem, therefore, the thermostat should be tested or replaced before the engine is returned to service.

Cooling system leaks -- Loss of coolant because of a coolant leak is probably the most common cause of engine overheating. Possible leak points include hoses, the radiator, heater core, water pump, thermostat housing, head gasket, freeze plugs, automatic transmission oil cooler, cylinder head(s) and block.

Leaky Head Gasket -- Bad news because repairs are expensive. A leaky head gasket can allow coolant to seep into the engine's cylinders or crankcase. Symptoms include a loss of coolant with no visible external leaks, and white steam in the exhaust, especially after restarting the engine when it has sit for awhile. A leaky head gasket can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system, or by using a "block checker" that pulls air from the cooling system into a cylinder that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. If there are any combustion gases in the coolant, the color of the liquid inside the detector will change from blue to green. A leaky head gasket can often be temporarily sealed by adding a sealer product to the cooling system. But for bad leaks or ones that cannot be stopped with sealer, the head gasket has to be replaced.

Fan Not Working -- With mechanical fans, most engine overheating problems are caused by a faulty fan clutch, though a missing fan shroud can reduce the fan's cooling effectiveness by as much as 50% (depending on the fan's distance from the radiator) which may be enough to cause the engine to overheat in hot weather or when working hard.

Leaky Water pump -- Any wobble in the pump shaft or seepage would call for replacement. In some instances, a pump can cause an engine to overheat if the impeller vanes are badly eroded due to corrosion or if the impeller has come loose from the shaft. The wrong pump may also cause an engine to overheat. Some engines with serpentine drive belts require a special water pump that turns in the opposite direction of those used on the same engine with ordinary V-belts.

Lower Radiator Hose Collapsing -- A pinched hose (upper or lower) or a lower radiator hose that is collapsing and blocking the flow of coolant when the engine is running can cause engine overheating. The lower hose usually has a metal reinforcing wire inside that looks like a large spring. It s purpose is to prevent the hose from collapsing when the water pump is pulling water through the hose. If this wire is missing or has failed due to corrosion, the hose may collapse.

*Plugged or Dirty Radiator -- Dirt, dead bugs and debris can block air flow through the radiator and reduce its ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can also block the flow of coolant. A good way to find internal clogs is to use an infrared thermometer to "scan" the surface of the radiator for cold spots. If clogged, the radiator should be removed for cleaning or replaced. Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.

Excessive exhaust backpressure -- A clogged catalytic converter will restrict the flow of exhaust and cause heat to back up in the engine. Other causes include a crushed exhaust pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If intake vacuum reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.

*Overheated incoming air -- On older vehicles with a carburetor or throttle body injection, check the operation of the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. If the temperature control valve is stuck so only heated air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn into the air cleaner, it may contribute to detonation and/or engine overheating. Also check the heat riser valve for manifold heat on older V6 and V8 engines. If stuck shut, it may be overheating the intake manifold.

*Dragging brakes -- A disc brake caliper that is sticking or a parking brake that is not releasing may be making your engine work harder than normal to overcome the friction. Check the brakes and fix as needed.

*Overworking the engine -- The cooling systems in many passenger cars today are marginal and have little excess capacity to handle extra heat generated by towing or high speed mountain driving in hot weather. Replacing the original stock radiator with a larger or thicker radiator can improve cooling capacity.

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*Signs of a Failing Radiator Fan*

All vehicles use a radiator fan to help remove heat from the coolant that circulates through the engine. The fan also cools your air conditioning refrigerant, and is sometimes called a “condenser fan” or “cooling system fan.”

*There are two basic types of radiator fans: mechanical and electric.*

*Mechanical*: These are usually found in older, rear-wheel drive vehicles, as well as some modern trucks. Most mechanical fans have a built-in clutch that allows the fan to idle when the engine is cold and rotate when it’s hot. Mechanical fans typically mount to the water pump pulley at the front of the engine.

*Electric*: These are used in most modern vehicles and are driven by an electric motor. The engine’s computer decides when to turn on the fan.

When you drive, air is forced through the grille, through the condenser and through the radiator. The air removes heat from the coolant and the A/C system. But when the vehicle is idling or moving slowly, too little air enters to keep things cool. That’s where the radiator fan comes in.

The fan moves air through the radiator and condenser to keep removing heat from both units. On some modern vehicles, the fan may come on at higher speeds as well to supplement the airflow.

Some cars have two electric cooling fans.

*Signs of a failing radiator fan*

A faulty radiator fan can cause many problems. These are some of the most common:

*Engine overheating*: A bad radiator fan can cause the engine to overheat, especially at low speeds. If your car starts overheating, pull off the road as quickly as you safely can and turn off the engine. An overheated engine can quickly get ruined and lead to expensive repair bills.
*A/C blows warm air*: The condenser, with help from the radiator fan, is responsible for eliminating heat from the A/C system. If the fan fails, the condenser can’t do its job and the A/C system will blow warm air.
Warning lights are on: A faulty radiator fan can trigger warning lights such as the engine temperature and check engine lights. In some cases, the A/C system may also display some type of warning, such as a flashing A/C button.

*How to fix the problem*

A failed radiator fan should be replaced immediately. Allowing an engine to overheat even once can cause extensive damage. Have your vehicle diagnosed by a professional immediately if you suspect fan issues.

Why Vehicle Maintenance is Important

You have invested thousands of naira in your vehicle, so you need to be sure to maintain your vehicle properly. This is not the only reason to take regular vehicle maintenance seriously. There are several other factors that need to be considered.

Extend the Life of Your Vehicle: Just by following the regular maintenance schedule, you can keep several vehicle problems at bay. When you are traveling in your vehicle, the last thing you want is a car breakdown. Keeping up with the regular maintenance schedule can help by preventing costly repairs of the cooling system, transmission system, drivetrain and other components. Preventive car care reduces wear and tear of the engine and other components that extend the life of your vehicle.

Increased Safety: A car breakdown at night on a quiet road can be a dangerous situation. You can never predict what may happen when you are stranded on a quiet road. Regular maintenance reduces the probability of a car breakdown and your car will be in great condition to support your journey. Checking treads of tires and air pressure is important for your vehicle for a strong grip on the road. It also plays an important role in the comfort of the journey.

Reduced Repair Costs: Regular maintenance doesn’t cost much but unexpected repairs and replacements can be expensive. Engine and other components don’t fail without a reason. When you neglect maintenance, it gives way to minor problems developing that can become major with continued neglect of vehicle maintenance. Regular maintenance of your vehicle gives you an opportunity to check whether there are any signs of minor problems like cracks, leaks, as well as excessive wear and tear due to friction. If you pay attention to these things and perform repairs, the specific part can be saved and you will not need a replacement for a long time. In a way, vehicle maintenance extends the longevity of the engine and other components and reduces the need for an early replacement. Thus, it helps in reducing repair costs as well.


Fluids: Systems in your vehicle use fluids for functioning. Since they are enclosed in tight chambers, there is no risk of evaporation. However, over time, their levels deplete and the level of protection they offer against friction decreases. If you neglect vehicle maintenance, there will more wear and tear of the engine and other components, and ultimately you will be required to replace them.

Tires: The right air pressure and proper rotation ensures equal wearing of your tires. Maintaining the correct air pressure is the easiest thing to do and you can get it done by us. It doesn’t take much time but it goes long way in increasing gas mileage and reducing wear and tear.

Oil Change: It is one of the most important aspects of vehicle maintenance that you should keep your eye on. We suggest vehicle owners change their oil after every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. It is essential to maintain your engine in good condition.

Always remember, vehicle maintenance might cost you a few hundred naira with us, while replacements and emergency repairs can cost thousands or more. This one factor is enough for everyone to understand the importance of vehicle maintenance.

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*AUTOMATIC CAR GEARING SYSTEM*

Very many automatic car users are careless to understand the gearing transmission system of autos. We are aware of 'P, R, N, D, D1, D2, D3' or 'P, R, N, A, 2, 3, L' in our cars and we understand only P=park, R=reverse, N=neutral and D=drive only. The others' function are discussed bellow:

*The d1, d2, d3 can be used for engine braking* . That is u can use it to downshift when u are going down the hill or nearing a red light and u don't won't to use ur brakes, just like in manual
*. If u are moving say in gear 4 and u shift to d2, ur car will downshift to gear 2, likewise ur car will downshift to gear 1 if u shift to d1. This is useful in slowing down the car in case of brake failure.*

For D1, when u're stucked in sand or mud and u need to maintain gear 1 power to get ur car out.

For D2, when u're ascending a hilly road and ur engine is loosing power. To gain instant engine power, u need drop to D2( just like in manual trans)

For D3 (if a car does not have it, OD button does the function), when u're trying to overtake in low rev say 2500 rpm and need to rev up to say 5500 rpm to gain more engine power to overtake successfully.

Also 'D2' 'D3' functions are designed for emergency scenario, a situation where your gear in 'D' could not change itself automatically due to electrical or mechanical malfunctioning, all you need to do is to drive the car manually and it has no side effect of on your car.

Some automatic cars dont have such d1, d2, rather they have +/- .The plus shifts up while minus down shifts the gear.

Some like mercedes have it also behind the steerin like paddles. Mercedes C-class, ML and Volks passat cars, never upshift or downshift except in extreme cases of engine revolution above or below safety limit. It makes the experience similar to driving a manual car without the third pedal
Unlike the manual, you can change gears to upshift or downshift as asserted without having to hit on your brake pedals at such extremes of speeding by suppressing the knob on the head of the gear shift selector handle to pick on the specified gear you wish to be on.

So for automatic, if I'm moving at, say 120km/hr on 'D', I can just change to, say 'D2' without stepping on the brakes, and the car will slow down automatically.

All professional drivers use this to control when they want their cars to shift to lower or higher gears at the right rpm.

A professional driver who knows how to handle auto gears will outrun an ordinary driver even when they are both driving the same cars with the same auto tranny.

If u watch fast and furious 6, most of the cars they used are automatic but the drivers controlled when they want the cars to shift.

*Always remember to fasten your seat belts while driving.*

Have a great day❗