₦airaland Forum

Kwikserv:
This isnt an ECU issue because I replaced the ECU for a 2008 Mercedes-Benz G500 and it still does the same thing. The ECU was replaced for another issue but the starting issue persisted.

Yours might be something different entirely, care to shed more light on the issue

Wayd:
My 2014 GLK 350 is having steering issues, I first noticed that when I drive faster the steering gets stiff while when it is in one place it is normal. Now that I parked it for while it has become very stiff whether moving or not. It is very very stiff. Also there are no errors in the dashboard.

Your GLK should be using an electric power steering, this would need a physical inspection to actually point out the fault, if the vehicle is in Lagos you can reach out to me at 08028992075

oladele239:
Helped my neighbour scan his car and we got this code
Can someone please share insights

What car is this sir, does he have issues with stalling or maybe not shifting past a gear.
- for the p0010 it could be caused by a couple of things, actuator might be bad, timing issues is probable also.
- you have a downstream 02 sensor fault, it is probably bad
- for the IAT SENSOR, most likely a bad Maf sensor ( if integrated together with the iat sensor ) and it can also affect fuel economy
Last code is related to the Input speed sensor, a basic step is inspecting the sensor and it’s wiring

moscobabs:
Hello Nairalanders,

For the past 3 weeks now I have been having some issues on my car battery. Most time I will park it in the night only to start it in the morning and found out the battery has drained but the surprise comes when I jump-start it with another battery and it works then drive it and stay in office for almost 11hrs, whenever I start the car it will work perfectly, the only time it drains is overnight.

Mech Engineers/ Rewires in the house, please what could have been the cause. Thank you very much.

You definitely have a battery drain issue that need to be checked. A parasitic drain test would need to be carried out to ascertain what component is causing this.
What vehicle is this
Where is it also located
You can reach out to me at 08028992075 to get it checked out if you’re in Lagos

Zeal192:
Hello guys, please advise me on 2019 Range Rover sport supercharged, I am currently looking at one.

It should be noted that the aforementioned tips are just common faults and the basics shouldn’t be overlooked ( I mean the overall running of the vehicle ) if you do need any help you can always reach out to me at 08028992075

Zeal192:
Hello guys, please advise me on 2019 Range Rover sport supercharged, I am currently looking at one.

It’s a wonderful car in terms of luxury and appeal
Not the best when it comes with reliability, if I were to advise I’d say get a Mercedes instead . If you do end up still picking this vehicle, I’ll just give you a quick tip though if you’d be going to get this car kindly make sure it is properly inspected sir, especially for coolant leaks by a coolant pipe right beneath the supercharger they’re prone to failure ( on the v8 and v6 motors ). Get a full system scan done on the car that can confirm no faults with the steering system and air suspension unit.

remi4ever:
Hello guys,

I’m getting a metallic rattling noise from the driver side of the engine bay when accelerating. The best way to describe it is a fast, repetitive crackling sound, almost like an electrical wire burning and making a constant spark against metal.

This problem started before I changed the engine, so it is not coming from the new engine.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the noise starts, it's intermittent especially when I'm accelerating. A mechanic told me it might be a gasket issue and suggested removing managing it or changing the gasket, the thermostat and running the fan directly, but there is no overheating at all.

I’m not sure what else to check. I need help.

CC:jceesquare, conner44, macmilla,

This would require a physical inspection .

Cutezt:
My car has been giving me nightmares for the last 3 days now. I drove it to church on Sunday, it was moving very well, no problem at all, the only code prior was the camshaft sensor code which I planned to change sometime next month when I go to the mainland, so after getting to church, parked and after service, I came to the car tried starting, it refused to start, noticed the battery went completely flat as there were no lights on the dashboard, so I decided to try another battery but it still didn't start up, it was cranking but never starts, it just cranks and the stops like something is holding the pulley back, so I just parked it in church and returned the next day with a mechanic who checked everything and said he couldn't find a problem, we called a rewire who checked and found no problem too, he checked the dashboard and discovered the key light wasn't going off, it kept blinking, he suggested we called key programmers and they came and did their thing, key blinking light went away, but still no start, until he decided to check the ECU and that was when he discovered that the AC water exit hose was blocked and was draining water into the ECU, wahala!

The brainbox was literally filled with water when it was removed, it was cleaned with clutch cleaner but it didn't work, so we got another ECU hoping it's gonna work, after programming and all, car still refused to start, rewire checked the coils and found one bad cool, we replaced it, started the car again and it still refused to start, checked all fuses, everything was working fine, at this point, I Don taya, it has actually never given me this level of problems before, it has never stopped me on the road, so this one is kinda strange, please does anyone have a suggestion?

It's an 06 accord.

I’ll suggest confirming if the check engine light comes on when the car is on ignition, and also confirm that the particular Ecu is compatible with yours via part number

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supersaz66:
Any good Honda specialist around kubwa Abuja or Abuja generally.
My 08 accord legs has pulled like 4 times this year.
Need a permanent fix for it.

Search the moniker Kingreign here on Nairaland, he’ll handle it competently. This is his mobile number 07034581213

Elui2:
Hello all.

Pls I got the following code after scanning my car.

Pls what next should I do?

You have catalyst efficiency codes which could probably mean no catalyst
- you also have a bunch of evap codes which would require at the very least a scan tool that can run the key off test( specifically for Toyota’s )
To see if probably the issue arises from the charcoal canister or purge flow ) or perhaps a smoke test would suffice, I can also see you have VSS code, is the speedometer working fine and does the car shifts well

Available, send me your offers

Still up for grabs

Good deal still Available today

PrinceBYC:
Thank you for this.
The D light doesn't blink. Fluid colour and level are ok. Scanned and did not throw up any transmission related code.

Someone suggested that the TCM be checked. That it's probably not sending appropriate signals consistently. Could the speed wheels sensors affect too?

I doubt the car as a TCM but rather controlled by the ECU. Do you have speed sensor related fault codes

Meklex:
No burn issues. 5w30 is the oil weight and quantity is 5L.

I don't think I can find this oil brand here in Anambra, but I will check. Do you know how much it's currently sold.

Are there other recommendations?

Probably hardex apart from this two i really can’t give a cheaper brand ( 35k should get either of the two ) also I want to believe your car would actually take a little above 5 liter since it uses the 1mz

Meklex:
What's the best affordable oil I can use for my car, ES 300?

MICKING 5w30, 6L would work just fine. ( I want to believe you don’t have oil burn issues and you know the former oil weight that was used for the car )

PrinceBYC:
Good day all. Pls I need help with my 08 accord 4plug.

When i engage the gear, it moves fine, but the moment I slow down, only gear 1 works. It won't transmit to 2 or higher gears. I often had to pull over, put the gear in Park or neutral , then back to Drive again , for it to select well for some times. This cycle continues until I get to my destination. No be juju be dis so ? Lol.

Pls advise.

Does the d light blink when this happens ( or even on ignition ?
- how’s the condition of the tranny fluid ( color )
- try checking it by warming up the car, go through the park position all down to reverse and back to park. While still running the car check transmission fluid level.
- lastly run a scan ( I mean using a scan tool that can check the transmission for trouble codes )

Hey there!, I have for sale a super clean 2008 Toyota Camry in mint condition for sale
Vehicle brief
- Car only came in with minor scratches form import
- car has been baked just once since import
- powertrain functions optimally
- AC chills also
- location- Ikotun, Lagos Nigeria
Price - 6.7m ( slightly negotiable )
Contact at 08028992075

Available today for a quick sale

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Interior and engine bay pictures

Hey there!, I have for sale a registered 2008 Honda Civic up for sale today
Vehicle Brief
— registers unit
— vehicle has been painted
— power train maintained properly ( sharp 4 plugs )
— AC isn’t functional for now ( gas leak )
— Buy and Drive
— Cheap Deal @ 3.7m
Contact details - 08028992075
Location- Agbulegba, Lagos, Nigeria.

Kaptol22:
Is this still available

It’s sold sir but you can reach out to me for better deals sir