₦airaland Forum

billyG:
Help!how do i locate d thermostat on my camry, ought it with both fans running on startup,which fan is d A/c,which is 4 radiator,who can revert d connection back 2 factory a mechanic or auto electrician?

1. Thermostat is located by following upper radio hose . . where radiator hose meets engine block . . remove the clamp and pull of hose.

2. standing in front of the engine . . right fan is the radiator fan . . left fan is condenser fan (A/C ) . . this is default for most sedans.

3. You can do it . . check the fuses boxes in the engine bay, and with their label/diagram, locate the fan relay/fuse.. . relay(a somewhat bigger fuse)

4. U should see that it was bridged (i.e. a wire has been used to either connect 2 points together, or 1 point to ground (vehicle frame (chassis))

5. Remove the bridge and u r good 2 go . .

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very good lyrics .. but poor delivery .. . and a very annoying "emi l'oba se"

ur voice is literally shaking like u're standing on stage at madison square garden and losing it

work on ur voice. . work on ur confidence

work on ur delivery . . .

cocoduck:
your car's problem is now more on the gas pedal potentiometer, your 02 sensors are working, for further test, if your car has a brake booster hose disconnect it and see if the voltage goes up, BTW I believe that that thing is not an O2 sensor but an AF sensor I think air fuel ratio sensor or something, so it does not react like your average oxygen sensor, sometimes you may even think that it is a faulty O2 sensor so don't touch it. Just manage till you get a new TPS.
Make sure you study your owner's manual and use the recommended oils and fluids, it is all on the manual.

Okay thanks, i will do the check for the brake booster thing in the morning . . .
Meanwhile, i couldn't perform a vacuum leak test ... the ones i saw on youtube that didnt require a smoke machine . . required either propane or a cigarette to simulate smoke . . I don't have a propane tank; and I don't smoke . . .so i guess, i will have to take d vehicle to Mr G for a vacuum leak test afterall. And hopefully change the TPS there too . . .

cocoduck:
Your main problem is not the vacuum leak for now, your car does not throttle well, so, with the signal drop out your reported, it means the computer is seeing that erratic signal and thinks you are the one doing it, and it reacts based on the signals it receives, it is a kind of garbage in garbage out thing, so test that part and verify it works well.

1. Yes, i have tested the TPS and it does cut signal somewhere around 2k RPM . . . so i think i should be getting a new one.
2. Oxygen sensor bank 1 reports a constant 0.175 voltage . . which shows system is too lean . . . i learnt ideal voltage should be somwhere around plus minus 0.450 . . . when i gas d car, it rises to 0.9; but on releasing the pedal, drops to 0.175 and remains there. . . dead oxygen sensor ??
3. I was able to achieve -8.9% STFT and LTFT has dropped to 10.2% . . . is the ECM relearning fuel trims?
4. I discovered the fans were set to always on . . .as i noticed a wire used for bridging the fan relays . . i removed it. . .
5. Fans now come on at 93 degress celcius . . . blow for a minute and turn off at 90 degree . . . once it gets to 93 degrees; they come on again . . factory spec i guess . . .
6. After tampering with the gas pedal assembly; car idles at 700 RPM and about 800+ with full load . . engine is super quiet
7. The only thing I am concerned about now are my fuel trims . . .cos I know for sure I would be changing the TPS anytime soon . .

Awaiting your input sir . . .

Thanks

cocoduck:
....

Okay i wil check the TPS again . . . and check for a vacuum leak . . i just hope its not something too serious like on the intake manifold, EGR , PCV valve or brake booster . . .I will be back in say, 2hrs
Thanks a million . . .

cocoduck:
BTW you also mentioned STFT going down to -3.8, that is to say the the car is withdrawing fuel when the gas pedal is depressed, that is a good example of a vacuum leak, go to YouTube and study how to find vacuum leak, it is a piece of cake, even without a smoke machine, maybe you did not connect a hose properly, so a rogue and unmeterd air is finding its way into the engine. At idle it matters a lot because only a little air is needed but at wide open throttle its effect is diminished because there is way more metered air in the engine.
Don't ignore the STFT because that is what the computer is doing now and LTFT is what it has been doing, which is a product of STFT.

What is a vacuum leak? when unmetered air is entering the combustion chamber; right?
okay, i depress the gas pedal while parked and STFT dips to negative 3.8% (maximum av seen it dip to) . . which u said d car is withdrawing fuel . .
but i dont understand d concept . . i tot depressing the gas pedal opens d throttle body for more air . .. and more air would require more fuel . .
then how come i depress d gas pedal and the car is withdrawing fuel . . . that sentence alone is confusing me and i would love it if you broke it down for me . . . .i wil check Youtube now for how to find a vacuum leak . ..
In short, lemme go downstairs now and start working on this car . . . . Today is Saturday and I am going to be my own mechanic by fire by force . .

cocoduck:
I strongly believe that the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is not doing what it's supposed to be doing, using your scan tool check the engine temperature data at cold start and watch if it rises, if you have a thermometer check the engine temperature when the engine is hot and compare it with engine temperature data from the scan tool.

I will check the temp @ cold start; although when i arrived, i used the scanner (its always in the car) and i got 67 degrees Celsius . . somebody said at least it should be around 87 - 90 for optimal performance . . . as a matter of fact, 67 was because i was using the A/C . . .
without the A/C, i think it stays at 50-something . . av seen it before . . .
even when i arrived my destination, the bonnet was still cold to touch . . slight warm
in other cars av driven, just after 5mins, u dare not sit on the bonnet; or suffer burns

cocoduck:
it hesitates a moment before moving forward, okay
still use the live data to determine what is going wrong, analyse the TPS signal graph it should be a smooth curve as you depress it further, how about the fuel trim, because it could be a vacuum leak due to excess air, if you depress the gas pedal and the LTFT improves, then it is vacuum leak, if it doesn't, then it may be a fuel delivery issue, does the engine vibrate? When last did you change your fuel filter? Did you clean the MAF as somebody suggested? if not do so to eliminate that variable. Download and watch that video again, and other videos in his channel's play list, you will be better equiped.

Good morning

Update:

So i tested the TPS with the graphical live data . . it doesnt give a smooth curve as i depress it . . rather, i get erratic sharp high and low points
. . While driving this morning, i parked and checked the LTFT and it was at 10% .. i was happy. Only to check it when i arrived my destination; and it was sitting at 12%. When i depress the gas pedal, the LTFT doesnt move, but the STFT dips to about -3.8%. With the car in idle, STFT hovers around 0% and 1%. Another thing i noticed, I left the house around 7am and got to my destination at about 2hrs 30mins later; yet the temperature guage was sitting way low beyond normal. Even with full A/C and traffic. Is this a cause for the heavy fuel consumption. Pls check attached pic

cocoduck:
also the size of the engine matters a lot a V6 will need more air than a 4 banger, like wise a v8 will need more than both the V6 and the 4 banger. STOICIOMETRY 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel.

Morning sir, morning all ..

A little update:

Drove the vehicle yesterday for 3 hours amidst Lagos traffic . . and all was fine . . except for one situation . .

The gas pedal doesn't seem to respond when i step it on lightly (moving from a dead-stop) . . I am just trying to tap the pedal lightly, but it doesn't respond, not until i push it in more . .

If i don't get it right, the car races . . . and I don't want to be racing the engine from stoplights . . .

Looks to me like a bad TPS or probably, i f**ked up (excuse my language) the calibration of the TPS when i took out the gas pedal assembly.

cocoduck:
your car is a drive by wire system, if it is don't you ever take her to a kazeem.

Yes, it is a drive by wire . . . maybe i will drive for a couple of days and see if the computer will adjust/re-learn

Thank u so much ... the youtube videos really helped ... took me about 45mins to loosen the T.Body though coupled with some bruised fingers

chukel:
Makavele clean the maf first. Spray generously with maf cleaner or soak in methylated spirit. Gazzuzz, ur presence is needed here pls.

I dont have a MAF cleaner . . . so i will go the methylated spirit route . .
what figures should i be looking at for a healthy MAF ?

cocoduck:
here is the next info you need
www.obd-codes.com/p0016

before anything, can your scanner portray the live data in graph format? If yes, then go to it and check which is dropping out, and you must do it while cranking the engine. If not, you can get (I did not say buy, you know what I mean) better scan tool like the maxidas from any shop and check the live signals coming from the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, don't rush and buy any part yet.

Yes, the scanner can output live data in graphical format . . .
Okay i will do just that .

cocoduck:
here is the next info you need
www.obd-codes.com/p0016....

decided to get down 'n dirty today . . and here's what i did .

1. managed to access the throttle body and kept it with open with key in ignition; engine off, gas pedal depressed.
after cleaning the T. Body; the RPM jumped to 2300+ at idle ...

2. so i removed the whole gas pedal assembly . . and RPM was back to factory spec. . hovering around 800 at idle
and 600-750+ with load . . test drove it, and it drove fine, buh couldnt accelerate obviously.

3. a close look at the gas pedal assembly, i found out that the throttle position sensor, came loose and was wobbling . .so i had to tighten all bolts on the assembly; and also gave the pedal some slack . .

4. after coupling everything back together . . car idles around 800+ in neutral or park
and idles around 700+ with loads + gear.

5. I cleared the Crankshaft error code; i dont know if it would re-appear . .

Meanwhile, my Longterm Fuel Trim is still at 14% . . how do i make it go back to the normal 0% +- 5% ?

@chukel
I guess, I have to change the MAF, right ?

1. Error Code

2. RPM in either drive or reverse gears

3. RPM in either Park or Neutral

cocoduck:
na small small monkey dey eat banana, na small small yo go dey eat hot soup, so don't try to swallow it whole, instead absorb them in little chunks

So i checked the live data this morning . . lest i forgot , i hooked up the scanner and got a P0016 (Crankshaft Position; Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A ) . .

As for live data ..

Short Term Fuel Trim = 0.0 %
Long Term Fuel Trim = 14.1 %

So i am thinking over time, the vehicle's computer has adjusted to pumping 14.1% extra fuel . . Mehn, that's a lot oh

I am attaching pictures for clarity . .

Don't know the next step to take oooo

cocoduck:
......

quite long and informative; will try 1st thing in the morning

thanks

^^^
The scanner is able to stream live data . . . what exactly do i check for in the live data ?

Yes, i can see the throttle body, but the way it's positioned is scary . . .

I am afraid, while cleaning it myself, the cleaning fluid might actually drip inward along with the dirt . . and cause more damage.

Unless i of course bring out the whole throttle body, and i dont have the tools for that.

The vehicle in question is a I4 Camry '05

Problems:

1. Extremely high idle on engine start both cold and warm . . about 2000 RPM
2. Idle drops to 1200PM after a few seconds.
3. Idle drops to and stays between 1000 and 1100 RPM in either Reverse or Drive gears . . (with or without loads like radio, A/C etc)
4. Idle stays at 1200 in Park
5. Idle fluctuates between 1200 and 800 while in Neutral Gear .. (happens in neutral only)
6. Car surges forward even when am braking . . .or at a complete stop while still in drive .. I'm developing aching feet holding down d brake pedal with so much force.
7. Check engine light is on . . scanned multiple times, no codes. Light has been cleared mutliple time, only to reappear, and when scanned, still zero codes, zero pending codes too.
8. Car guzzles fuel like no tomorrow . . . Maryland to Oshodi and 10L is gone . . .


How to resolve this?

Thanks.

[color=#FFFFFF]Gazzuzz
Siena[/color]

Raphaelmary:
na today nah, abeg d tin don end?

if i hear .. . . .

Jadekitana:
Wear pant and carry her bag ke? Is she a prost1tute? Depends on the kinda women u meet though. [b]And sorry when a man cums, he's usually very sensitive, you can't even touch it for the mean time just like the clit! [/b]Go study these things well. Ain't about being a log of wood

This is false information !!!

saintgwizard:
There is truly poverty in the land. Getting intimidated by figures. Go build a duplex with 6.5m

Fulaman198:
Well my friend, I didn't specify that X is easier than Y and Z. What I said specifically was that with time, every operating system is easy to learn. Have an excellent evening.

Cheers !!!

sola12:
420k. If it's AES . Pls wht AES? Thank so much

. . . a shipping line !!!!

Fulaman198:
All operating systems are easy if you take the time to see how they work.

Not so true . . because in life, no two things have the same level of difficulty or simplicity
Compared to the other; one has to be at least a little bit harder or simpler. . . That's just life
In this case everybody knows OSX; at first glance; isnt as user friendly as Windows
We're talking about first glances for an average user . . . because no matter how complex the OS is; it becomes fairly easy to use with time

rev2214:
I use to belief Mac is more complex than window. But I think is better to give a trier and learn new thing.

Yes; OSX is not so user-friendly

AUTOCRATIC:
For sale

stil avail?

mbourie:
Makavele bone that thing....if you are into the profession, nah millions you go they yan..... you know how much dey go for site everyday? You buy materials, you pay labour.....site things they sweet because of flow of liquid cash amongst engineer, material and labour

i dey suspect u guy; so u dey bloat the budget abiiii

Jadekitana:
So y'all would go for money and tiny peepee

Not surprised ,99.9% of Nigerian ladies would go for the money . .
and they can get a "bigger peepee" outside marriage . . as they usually do !!!!

saintgwizard:
No Sir! While one 3 bedroom bungalow can be built with say 8 million another with superior finishing, beautifully finished surrounding can go for as high as 30million. So you need to see the house in question before coming to that conclusion

My friend, shut up pls . .