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Solardepot:
GOOD MORNING AND HAPPY WEDNESDAY TO YOU....

-----------STILL IN STOCK----------------

INTEGRATED LITHIUM ION BATTERY SOLAR STREET LIGHT

10W - N30,000

30W - N85,000

40W - N120,000

60W - N192,000

Click this link to order https://www.solardepotng.com/lights-and-fans/street-lights

For more enquiries or purchase call/Whatsapp any of these numbers 07014487290 or 09069125453.


SOLAR DEPOT NIGERIA
www.solardepotng.com
07014487290

Good morning
Is it that the unit comes together with the battery so all one has to do is mount on a pole or its just the light fitting alone

Chibuike

Lol

NiyiOmoIyunade:
To be truly off grid, you must oversize your PV array such that you make excess power on an average day and sufficient power to get by on a bad day.

That is why you see people with a 10kw array when they could get by with 4kw on a good day.

I must say though that the fact that it is raining does not mean your panels won't make power......

For me my target is to double my current 7.5kw array size or at least scale up by an additional 5kw - currently I can run two ACs 24/7 in addition to 600w of base loads on a good day and on the bad days only one AC - I will know I have arrived when I can run those two ACs 24/7 even on a bad weather day and still have spare capacity.

Oga Niyi Solar isn't for Port Harcourt during the raining season.
My 4.5kw panels rarely puts out 5kwh most of the time.

Initially I tot the connection was faulty coz I did all the connections myself or the Outback Flexmax 80 was overrated.

However on 3 or 4 occasions where there was Sunshine all throu the day I saw 16kwh on the CC with 4.2kwp and 78Ap.

My saving grace is that in the part of PH I live in we have PHED lite at least 18hrs a day.

My CC and inverter only kicks in when PHED in their usual madness goes off for 4-5days at times (on rare occasions).

That's when it occurs to me that PH weather can't sustain a solar setup for more two days coz it can rain for 5 straight days with another 5 days of little sunshine.

Depending on the sun for electricity isn't for a place like Port Harcourt where it can rain all month long and when it's sunny it doesn't last for more than 3 hrs.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Prag and A&E Dunamis are probably the most popular servo stab products here in Nigeria with visible service center presence.

I got a Prag 10Kva in 2014 and it is still alive and kicking, other folks were not so lucky with their own Prags. I typically recommend the A&E Dunamis servo stabs to clients because of the wider input voltage band - always find it funny that I hear strange noises coming out of the A&E whereas the Prag is more silent when fed thesame input voltage.

A&E appears more failure prone to me but their customer service is superb - probably the best I have ever experienced in Nigeria.

Like Oga Earthrealm rightly said, one must derate the servo stab loading as the input voltage drops else, things could go 'kaput'. This is the key cause of servo stab failure - customer is indoors loading a 10kva stab with two ACs, water heater, TV, lights, ironing blissfully unaware that PHCN is feeding in 100v to 120v at power source - small wonder then that the poor servo stab or even the PHCN meter breaks under the burden of too high amps and too low input voltage.

Thank you please where can I buy A & E Servo Stab

earthrealm:
i guess you meant btw a servo stabilizer and the common [relay] stabilizer.
a servo stabilizer uses a servo, which is a circular coil that revolves [basic analogy, you could google more for better explanations], so as voltage is flunctuating, the servo moves and picks and adjusts voltages accordingly, you just hear a soft whine, a relay stabilizer, uses relay, and when voltage flunctuates, you hear the clicking of various relays as they work to pick and adjust voltages.

servos are faster, less noisy, less moving abi clicking parts, thus less prone to fail, local electricians are not so good at repairing them.
i prefer a servo, anytime, anyday

@frankie, you guys have said it all, let him adjust his style and all would be well with him

Thanks

mctfopt:
Matsunaga Stavol

Please where can one buy this product...

earthrealm:
i got an A&E 10kva wall mount servo stablizer in 2015, after my 10kva servo prag failed after 1yr, and prag was unable to fix it. the A&E is still serving me ok to date., go for 12kva or 15kva if your voltage gets very low..>120 in your place, as the stabilizer load bearing capability reduces with lower voltage, a 10kva stab becomes a 3kva @100v input

Thank you

Back to thread

Please what is the difference between a Stabilizer and a Servo i know this question has been asked before

U need a lot of maturity and patience to do business with a Fellow like kiekie1.

First thing u get as a reply is an account number and very evasive and most times picks offence when u ask him of specs in details.

Ps: Can they (marketers) stop spamming the thread with their ads.

Stable Naira /dollar exchange rate is all we ask for

zeestone99:
Call/whatapp 08117398294

No problem but I would have loved to know the name/brand so I can check their reviews on amazon.com and ebay.com to be sure of multiple user experience

Good please I'm looking for a reliable solar charge controller to be installed in a remote location that can be hocked up to the internet for remote viewing with little or no interference all year long.

Expected pv is 5.4kw 48v system so maybe two charge controllers combined together or a CC with a hybrid inverter but all should have remote view capabilities.

Thank you all.

They are just after his money

Sai Baba

Please what's the difference between a stabilizer and a Servo

Criminal

With a name like that

Saipro:
I think he mentioned unattended during the problem description. Your first suggestion seems to be the one prime for his needs.

Adding more equipment introduces more points of tending to, thus more entry points for failure.

PV panels -> DC pump -> water level in the tank triggers an automatic float switch -> happy nonoski.

Not sure it can get any simpler.

Yes this seems to be the simplest solution.
But my tot has been why use the panels only for pumping of water for a few hours.
When the same panels + a few more can be effectively put to use and eliminate Generator entirely in the village house since it's hardly occupied (less than 35days the entire year)

kiekie1:
Hello Nonoski, the both ideas are good but i will say 2hp is not really energy efficient especially when you ain't powering a large tank or community tank project ! My 1hp water pump fills up normal 2500L GP tank in less than 40min here in Lagos and in my Anambra villa home ... I will advice you cut down high wattage loads for more energy efficient items if you haven't even installed the 2hp water pump .. The 1st idea is independent of batteries but what will your people in the village use to see at night ? My Lagos set up is automated"float switch et al" and even after that , I still give serious orientation/lectures to avoid expensive mistakes . I will go with option 2 since its not a standalone community project exclusively for borehole but an in-house set up. Cheer's

zeestone99:
Option 2 is fine, u get power 4 d house too wch ll b very useful, that's if no1 scatters the whole thing.
Call/whatapp 08117398294 for quote


Gracias

Barezzi:
I'd go with option 2 Nonoski.
I use a 1hp sub pump, and my tank capacity is 4000 litres. It's level controlled between the hours of 11.30am and 1.30pm.

Thank you all for the response.

I'm yet to start the project, i'm still carrying out feasibility studies.
The tank capacity will 12,000 Liters.

In the part of Anambra I come from the depth of the borehole (450ft+) will over labour a 1HP pump if at all it will work.
So for now i'm stuck with the 2HP option.
The submersible will only run for 3hrs a day (11:30am - 2:30pm)

A 2HP submersible pump is about 1500W if i add 20% inefficiency that will be about 1800w.
So for the 3hr it will pump daily will be about 5,500-6,000w max from a battery bank of 28,800 ( 14,400w at 50% DOD) which i don't see as bad

Good day house
I'm trying to put up a borehole project in the village somewhere in Anambra State.
It's a village project that will be automated since nobody will be in the house most often time.
Which of these two options would u pick

Option 1: use Solar powered submersible (2HP) with automatic float switch.
The submersible is connected directly to the solar array without the use batteries nor inverter.
The solar array required is 1.8kw or more.

Option 2: use a regular 2hp submersible pump and get an inverter + Solar setup.
I am thinking of getting a 6.3kw solar array connected to a 600amps 48v battery bank using 2 Charge controller and 1no 5kva inverter.

My issue with option 1 apart from lower overral cost is that I have seen it installed in many places and the submersible pumps are usually prone to failure.
The solar array will only be used by the borehole.

While option 2 apart from powering the borehole between 11.30am - 2.30pm will also power the house.

Nigerians stay home and fix ur country

Africa needs help

Make una go

hardywaltz:
Welcome to the club broda, I use an Outback Flexmax 80 for close to 2years, with Outback just install and leave it alone.

I later bought a Fangpusun Flexmax (Chinese version) to increase capacity however the difference is clear as day and nite.

It's not a popular brand here in Nigeria duh especially on Nairaland.

Wow seems my comment on Outback Flexmax started a storm.
Good reviews from everyone.
I wish I had seen this kind of robust reviews of several CC been used here in Nigeria it would have helped me make up my mind.
Unfortunately I had to rely on the reviews on Amazon Ebay and international fora before going for an Outback.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
For the record so that whoever wants to embrace MorningStar is not misled

The CC which blew up had been in use since 2009/2010 based on my check of it's data logs but fraudulently repackaged and sold as brand new to me in 2016. Who knows what it had passed through before it got to me?

I have probably had more than 20 MorningStars pass through my hands between then and now and none has yet failed or had any issues whatsoever - the one which intermittently logs a fault (no impact at all on functionality) I have updated firmware, tweaked and experimented on ceaselessly - once tried to force update my own reverse engineered firmware on it without success, connected a 4.5kw array to it and throttled the battery side output during Bulk charge to 35amps at 59.2v. It is the CC I try out all my ideas on and still running like a champ (on the random occasions it logs the 'DiP Switch Changed Fault', recovers back to full output within 3 seconds, daily produces 10kwh to 15kwh from a 3.6kw PV array).

The one certain vulnerability of the MorningStar is disconnecting CC from battery while PV array is still connected and the PV array is putting out power higher than the CC's clamp limits. I do believe they released a software update to disconnect PV internally to address this flaw but have not yet found the courage to test its effectiveness in real life.

You said it all the best CC is the one that meets your power needs within your budget. I love and trust MorningStar. I will gladly try any other CC experimentally just to see how it works and also because standards change and old champions are overthrown all the time.

For any who will take up the challenge, I have fallow 3pcs 330w Canadian Solar Panels, 1 Spare MorningStar CC and 2 600watt constant DC loads (immersion heaters). Just bring along your own favorite CC and let us perform a benchmark test

Oga thank you for your numerous advice, I had to rely on several of ur numerous advices.

My Outback Flexmax daily production is between 10kwh to 14kwh from my 3.75kw PV array.
This is no mean feat especially when half of the day is raining here in Port Harcourt.

I will have to wait till December to know the maximum Kwh this unit can produce.

Thank you all

For me Outback Flexmax does it.
On almost every forum I researched on Outback seems to stand out

lexi28:
sirs, here is some info I found on the Fangpusun controllers. it may be of use to someone:

PRODUCT SPECS:
http://m.fangpusun.com/flexmax-mppt1

COMPARISON WITH OUTBACK:
www.quan-diy.com/misc/scc/fangpusun.htm

my regards.

Thanks

Dino-saur the coward.

What is needed there is chanelization of the river

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have used and bought and sold at least 6 different flavors of MustPower inverters - all the ones that I have had access to are very inaccurate with their voltage readings and SoC estimations both under charge and discharge conditions. It is even a wonder how they are able to absorb correctly given the circuit inefficiencies but by my checks they do a reasonable enough job.

Like Oga Saipro said, you should get a decent multimeter to verify the true battery voltage and calibrate the Fangpusun FlexMax CC with that - it comes out of the box pretty accurate but I had a unit once that was 0.7volts off and I was able to offset it by that amount to bring it on point.

It's actually an Outback Flexmax 80A. I go it from US.
I was made to understand that Fangpusun is a Chinese clone (don't know how true it is) duh I couldn't find and reviews of Fangpusun online

JUO:
@ nonoski if i were you i will use the reading on flexmax

Thank you
I have reached that conclusion since coz between Outback (Premium brand) and Mustpower I will rather go with Outback

Saipro:
Congratulations on rolling up your sleeves and getting into the thick of things. That's my preferred route. It also simplifies maintenance and troubleshooting.

I'll attempt to help with my little knowledge base. In order of the questions,

1. You're safer going with ImP rather than IsC in your calculations.
For a place with overcast skies, your instantaneous best recorded (might bel lesser than the best seen) is great. Expect no more and you wouldn't be disappointed; actual NOC values are usually lower ... much lower (assume 73 - 78% of ratings).

Oversizing your array wouldn't be much of a hassle so long as you do not exceed the rated VoC of the FlexMax.
18 panels would be 4.5kWp of PV array. While it might not be the "cost effective" array size (depending on your battery bank size), if it makes economic sense to you, you're alright. Your FlexMax would hardly see beyond 3.5kW from that array size anyway.

2. I'm surprised there ever was a time your FlexMax and the Must inverter ever agreed (except on lower voltages. That, indeed, is an oddity. However, a 2V voltage drop suggests either significant loading of the inverter (based on battery bank sizing, again) or a drift in the calibration system of either (or rarely both) inverter or CC. I suspect you've learnt to place more loads on it even as you've discovered you at times have surplus power generation. A good voltmeter should inform you on which to trust (my money is on the FlexMax again).

3. Mine shows 100% on absorb voltages and 86 - 88% on float voltage (both the 24V & 48V Must inverters). Yours apparently recognises float as 100%. A wee bit preferable to mine but neither is accurate. Do not rely on it, ever. There's more to capacity estimation than mere voltage readings as it dynamically changes with loading percentage. The load % counter/meter is however pretty accurate across all models I've seen. It's the only thing you can really count on - up to around 35 - 50% loading. Right there (and beyond that), the inverter becomes more "efficient" (a paradox). At that point however, some older models might show waveform distortion.

Thanks for ur response
The reason I'm going throu this route is that the panels are 41m away from the CC using 16mm2 flex and there's space for 3 extra panels. So it will be more economical adding to the existing than getting a new cc and wiring another 45m between CC and PVs