₦airaland Forum

Na their way

babaegun:
@Nonoski
Hi,
How was the upgrade/installation? Do share the good news with us here.

Yes I will.
The Outback Charge Controller and Midnite Combiner box MNPV6 I bought from Amazon via MallforAfrica just arrived yesterday. (I had to wait 3weeks +)

However I will be doing the installation this weekend.

For now I'm doing a lot of literature review, research and YouTube watching of videos coz I intend to do all the installation by myself.

I have tried reading over 140 pages of this thread.

When hunger been dey the system

Lol

Nice of them...

While some younger hard working decent ladies are yet to get one.
This life is unfair

Every thief don get mouth to talk even Stealer BMW Oduah.
Uche Secondus aka Total Chair Thief sef dey go court.
Chia...

Same as Bill Gates

Thief endorse thief
Wetin concern me

Uche Secondus is a criminal come and arrest me

makavele:
God help you the day a solar flare occurs !!!

LOL that's why I'm trying to get the circuit breaker disconnect amperage right so the breaker trips of when too much current passes through it.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Although all CCs have some overcurrent protection built in, all. manufacturers recommend to use a sort of external DC Disconnect device aka overcurrent protection aka DC breaker or SLOWBLOW fuse between battery and CC.

Given that your PV Array and CC may be capable of pushing up to 80amps DC into your batteries and/or loads under ideal conditions, I would suggest you use minimum 25mm flex cable or best case 35mm flex between your CC and battery bank. This will help guarantee the cables always run cool and also prevent losses in case you have a long distance between the CC and batteries.

I suggest you move that 100a DC breaker from between the CC and PV array and use it for the CC to battery instead. Your 4500w array set as 3S 5P will be running on average between 80v to 120v under load with max amps you will see on the PV side between 40 to 50amps. Thus you can get by with a 63a DC breaker on the PV side.

There is one small but very important matter to consider when it comes to breaking the CC to battery connection. What happens if for whatever reason the breaker between CC and battery trips while the solar PV breaker is still closed/hot/live? The only Morningstar CC I ever lost was destroyed by just such an occurence and afterwards I started using manual disconnects only. People like Oga DMerciful circumvent this by using 2 pole breakers between the CC and battery - one pole breaks CC to battery while the other pole breaks PV to CC. This way if the battery breaker ever trips, the PV is simultaneously disconnected from the CC. Further upstream, there is yet another DC breaker between the first breaker and the actual PV array and with this you can easily isolate/shut down the PV for maintenance or troubleshooting. This is a clever workaround but may still fail in a scenario where one pole of the breaker e.g the PV side burns and remains hot/live such that the breaker tripping disconnects battery but not the PV to CC connection.

Oga NiyiOmoIyunade Based on this ur post I'm revising my schematics to the the picture I attached below.
Thank you once again for all ur guidance.

babaegun:
@nonoski

Please take a look at the specification for FLEXMAX 80 before you max out on the max. power and voltage specification. Kindly keep us updated with diagrams of your installation. Best of luck

Yes I know the max wattage for flex max 80 using 48v system is 4000 watts like u pointed out but from what I gathered from this forum is that a 4500 watts system will most likely not do above 75% - 80% (3600w max) from my pv due to inefficiencies.
So I think I will be doing just fine

Keep quiet

We trust you

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Although all CCs have some overcurrent protection built in, all. manufacturers recommend to use a sort of external DC Disconnect device aka overcurrent protection aka DC breaker or SLOWBLOW fuse between battery and CC.

Given that your PV Array and CC may be capable of pushing up to 80amps DC into your batteries and/or loads under ideal conditions, I would suggest you use minimum 25mm flex cable or best case 35mm flex between your CC and battery bank. This will help guarantee the cables always run cool and also prevent losses in case you have a long distance between the CC and batteries.

I suggest you move that 100a DC breaker from between the CC and PV array and use it for the CC to battery instead. Your 4500w array set as 3S 5P will be running on average between 80v to 120v under load with max amps you will see on the PV side between 40 to 50amps. Thus you can get by with a 63a DC breaker on the PV side.

There is one small but very important matter to consider when it comes to breaking the CC to battery connection. What happens if for whatever reason the breaker between CC and battery trips while the solar PV breaker is still closed/hot/live? The only Morningstar CC I ever lost was destroyed by just such an occurence and afterwards I started using manual disconnects only. People like Oga DMerciful circumvent this by using 2 pole breakers between the CC and battery - one pole breaks CC to battery while the other pole breaks PV to CC. This way if the battery breaker ever trips, the PV is simultaneously disconnected from the CC. Further upstream, there is yet another DC breaker between the first breaker and the actual PV array and with this you can easily isolate/shut down the PV for maintenance or troubleshooting. This is a clever workaround but may still fail in a scenario where one pole of the breaker e.g the PV side burns and remains hot/live such that the breaker tripping disconnects battery but not the PV to CC connection.

Thank you for the quick response
Using Rapidtables website
I will experience a 5v drop between the pv and cc using 16mm2 flex in a distance of 51 meters and cool tem. I'm willing to accept that loss coz the difference in price between 16mm2 and 25mm2 flex multiplied by 51meters is quite a lot of money.

Please what size of cables should I use between the CC and battery bank?

Attached below is a picture of the 100 amps DC breaker which I think I can convert to a two pole, is the 100 amps rating too large for the purpose?

Thank you Sir

Good day house
In continuation of my last post where I'm trying to add solar panels to my already existing inverter.
Attached below is a schematic diagram of my intended connection.
Total of 15 panels (12 are 300w while 3 are 325w) connected in 3S 5P total 4575w connected to

Midnite Combiner box MNPV6 with a high voltage lightening surge arrestor

Distance from Combiner Box to Cc is 51m so I'm using 16mm2 flex (5AWG)

Outback Flex 80 FM80 MPPT 80 AMP Solar Charge Controller including OutBack Power RTS Remote Temperature Sensor

48 x 400AH battery bank (with ZHC battery equalizer)

3.5kva 48v Exulted Inverter (to be replaced with Must power 5kva)

I will doing all the connections myself, this weekend we will be removing interlocking stone to pass conduit pipes from the PV stand to the building and all other ancillary works.

A few Questions:
Is it necessary I include a DC breaker between the Cc and the battery bank (I already intend to put a 100amps breaker between the Combiner box and Cc)

What size of wire do I use between the CC and the battery bank.

Looking at the attached diagram pls is there anything I missed out just incase

Thank you

Good development

After reading the fake news about US Secretary of State canceling his visit to Nigeria and Senate President been chased away by constituents. I won't put this fake rumor past the Mischievous elements on social media

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Your solar panels are basically a charge/power source. Because you have a 48v nominal battery system you can expect to see your batteries needing Absorb voltages in the range of 56.4v to 59.2v depending on battery chemistry.

Deriving from above, in order to charge your batteries properly/completely, your solar panels must generate at least that Absorb voltage plus a 7v to 10v margin minimum (this is a rule of thumb) added on top to allow for losses in the cabling, vagaries in PV panels power and voltage output e.t.c.

If we take the battery upper charge limit of 59.2v and add on 10v safety margin we are at 69.2volts or roughly 70volts as minimum solar voltage. Tieing this into another popular rule of thumb that says each 12v battery requires minimum 17.5volts (or 18volts) in solar panel voltage to charge properly, we establish that your 48v (4 pieces 12v batteries in series) batteries need at least 17.5v × 4 = 70volts in solar panel voltage to charge properly.

So in your case that has panels with VoC of 38.8v, one could infer VmP of around 30volts to 35volts max. You would need at least two panels in series to have any hope of charging your batteries at all.

What is right for your setup will now depend on your type of Charge Controller - with a PWM CC 2 panels in series is all you need but with an MPPT CC you may want to gain more voltage headroom to maximise the MPPT boost factor and hence do 3 panels in series. All these are subject to your specific CCs operating and voltage limits of course.

Once your inverter nominal voltage is fixed at 48v then everything else derives from there. Whether to use a 2 panel in series or 3 panel in series config would depend on your panel VmP and Charge Controller type/limits/preferences.

I hope this clarifies? If you revert with the actual VmP of your panels then we should be able to offer you more definitive advise.

Thank you Sir for replying me
The VmP of the panel is 31.8v and the Imp is 9.43a

I intend to use an Mppt Charge Controller (Fangpusun 80a mppt or Victron Bluesolar mppt 150/75a) I'm yet to choose.

So I think I will go with 3 panels in series connection since I'm using an mppt.

On the bolded part
my current inverter charge current is 53.4v and charging current is 11.4a are you saying that my batteries requires a higher charge voltage?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You should be able to get more power out of your current PV array but to do so will require you to purchase a new inverter (24v) and dump the old one and depending on your future expansion plans you may also need a new CC or set once and for all the type/spec of panels you would be acquiring going forward.

The reason is because you have 4 × 250W panels and then 2 × 325w panels. Given that these were nominal 24v panels being used in a 12v nominal battery system, you could have them in parallel and get maximum juice out of them (1650w capacity) but CC limits you to around 800w maximum.

Moving to a 24v battery system you have to make a design choice - stay with your 'all PV panels in parallel config' in which case you may be able to release most of your 1650watts but suffer the downside of not enough voltage to get your batteries to absorb OR go to a 2 panels in series config which now caps you around 1500w but you always have sufficient MPPT headroom to get your batteries through absorb.

I am holding many things (equipment loads, battery state of charge e.t c) constant for simplicity.

I would recommend the series config with 2 pairs of 250w panels in series and then the pair of 325w panels also in series. One MPPT CC will only track one maximum power point for the entire PV array so you may find your 325w panels in series behaving more like 250w panels hence your max potential power available is 1500w of which you may expect to release an average of 1200w instantaneous on a very good day.

For future upgrades you must decide to either phase out the 250w panels or the 325w panels - which one you should keep or dispose depends heavily on the ultimate size of system you wish to grow to or if you purchase a new extra CC, you place all the 250w panels on one CC and all the 325w panels on the other CC.

The big question to ask right now is do you need the potential extra 400w (1200w - 800w) you may get from your panels if you move to 24v? Are you willing to purchase a new inverter e.t.c especially if you usually get sufficient on grid power to keep your batteries topped off.

Sorry to ask again coz I had asked earlier cos there seems to be conflict in opinions reading throu the thread.

I have 12nr solar panels 300w rated. My inverter is a 3.5kva 48v and battery 48v 200AH.

Would it be better if I connect my solar panel 2 in series (2*24v) and 6 strings in parallel
OR
I should connect 3 panels in series (3*24v) and 4 strings in parallel.?
Ps: the Panel Voc is 38.8v and Isc is 10.21a

And please is the fangpusun 80a a good CC coz a friend is offering me at a good price.

pranil:
personally, I have not used Fangpusun but I am using Victron chare controller inverters BMV etc and they are very good sturdy products. The Victron software development is legendary with access to open source and user forums. If you like to tinker and like remote monitoring get Victron. By adding a 35 USD pie and their opensource venus software you get access to VRM portal which helps you keep logs and performance data up to 5 years or more

Have a look at my website on what is possible. ( be sure to click on the advanced tab to see all graphs)

https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/12623/share/97b72cbb

https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki/raspberrypi-install-venus-image

Thanks

pranil:
1. The CC has better efficiency on lower voltages( 2 in series ) closely matching the battery nominal and will run cooler as a result. While higher voltages ( 3 in series) will mean lower cable losses and fewer cables in the junction box. The CC will wake up earlier and sleep later.
Normally if you are running CC close to max input use 2 in series ( otherwise you will lose significant power in the afternoon). if your panels
are undersized then 3 in series as a general thumb rule

2. Definitely combiner box with surge protection - buy the readymade( highly recommend midnight solar) or make yourself but definitely no twisting things together. It is much easier to troubleshoot the panels when they are misbehaving

3. see the attached file and calculate the ratings. Basically the rated current x0.8 ( correction for ambient temp) so 4 mm2 will carry 25 amps , 6 mm2 -33 and 10 mm2 -40

Based on your configuration use the correct size 4 or 6 mm2 from PV to Junction box and then from Junction box to CC suitably sized cable

Best luck

Thank you for response.
So it will be better to connect the 12Nr 300w
in 2 series to get 6 strings?

Please between Fangpusun FM 80A MPPT and VICTRON ENERGY BLUESOLAR MPPT 70A which is has a better algorithm and can be hocked up to the internet .

Thank you

Snake go swallow them oh

Good day house,
Please I need advice.
I have been using Inverters for close to 9 years and I have decided to add solar panels to my connection so I can minimize the cost of running generators to charge my batteries when Electricity is out. Although where I stay in Port Harcourt has a relative 14-18hrs light a day. Thou sometimes they get crazy and take the light for a whole week (Naija).

I have 12Nr 300watts solar panels which I have mounted on an independent mount so as to use it also as a car stand.
My Inverter is an Exulted 3.5Kva 48v system. (4nr 200Amps Batteries)
Issues:
Duh I have knowledge about Solar systems and prefer to DIY however I got an installer to help me look throu however we tend not to agree on the following
1. He says it’s better to connect 3panels in series 3 x 38.8v = 116.4v (using the Voc) and total amp of the 4 strings 4x10.21 = 40.84A (using Isc) since I will be using an MPPT
While I prefer 2panels in series 2 x 38.8v = 77.6v (using the Voc) and total amp of the 6 strings 6 x 10.21 = 61.26A since it’s a 48v system.
2. I prefer using a combiner box to connect all the strings before sending in to the Charge Controller
My installer prefers we just connect them using MC4 connectors and wires say combiner box is a waste of money.
3. The distance to the from the panel array to the charge controller is 45meters (148 feet), I prefer using 10mm flex, my installer prefers a 6mm flex.


I also wish to change my inverter to because my current inverter has a charging current of 11.4A and I will prefer an inverter with a higher charging Amp eg Mustpower or Felicity (any positive reviews on this product).

I intend to buy a Fangpusun 80A CC MPPT (is this a good product) coz I need a good CC with Digital meters I can use to study my output and possibly connect to the internet.

Thank you.

We are back to the Odili era in Rivers State.
Were cultists reign Supreme with the active connivance of the State Government.
The Rivers State Police Commissioner should be demoted to the rank of ASP since he cannot carry out his functions and Wike should stop collecting Monthly Security Votes (Hundreds of Millions of Naira) now that it us obvious that the State is too big for him to Secure.

Why not compare what PDP met in 1999 with what they left in 2015 before comparing them to the APC.

I'm not defending APC but if it's the Papa Deceive Pikin party they will neva rule Nigeria again...

We will rather vote in KOWA

Nothing
Same thing just that Nigerians like titles.
A Civil or Mechanical Engineering graduate from say University of Port Harcourt has a Bsc in Civil or Mech Engineering but a graduate from Rivers State University of Science and Technology Port Harcourt reading same courses (Civil or Mech Engineering) will be awarded a B-Tech

$41,617 (N15m) wetin abeg?
I go kukuma trek....

sholatech:
Ghana & west African countries are peculiar. I have used access bank & Gtb Naira/usd cards on pos terminals & it worked in Ghana few months back. But couldn't get cash via the Atms. Pos sadly are not yet widespread in Ghana. Also good to have some cash on you. You can change Naira/usd/euro etc easily in Accra

OK I will keep that in mind...

Benekruku:
Hope its not GT bank, cos you will end up stranded

No its FCMB
I have used them recently in other countries UK, France Germany but I was just wondering if it works in Ghana.

Is GTB card not working? My colleague going with me is using GTB and Diamond bank cards