Macmilla:

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

theadeola:


Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

Macmilla:

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

Well, currently the best idea is that since the accessories around that area have been checked (and their pulleys), then it's best to probably inspect the camshaft and timing chain very closely to reveal the culprit.


Listened to that video again, and my best guess would be that this has nothing to do with the actuator. It sounds more like excessive clearance of some components that are hitting each other.

Then, the chain might not be the right one, though chances of that are unlikely. Since I'm doing this remotely, a thorough check like I said earlier would be best.

Keep me posted on it too.

Have been here too. I was scared it was my CVT. Checked CVT fluid, well guaged. Drove for about 3 months like that before one small panel beater discover this and fixed it. Darn happy then that i gave him 5k.

theadeola:


Here's an idea; ask a technician to check the heat shields of your exhaust in front. Had a very annoying rattling sound when accelerating with my car and for a long time, I couldn't figure it out. Turned out it was a heat shield bolt and some weird resonance that caused it. The rattling then would only happen at 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm

Ekakamba:
Have been here too. I was scared it was my CVT. Checked CVT fluid, well guaged. Drove for about 3 months like that before one small panel beater discover this and fixed it. Darn happy then that i gave him 5k.

I know the feeling man.

That panel go happy die!

Cryomancer:
Good evening House.

Please I scanned my vehicle and got these codes in the below picture. Vehicle have been facing a struggling acceleration most times when driving.

any tips will be highly appreciated.

Thanks

Just to give an update on this issue.

I visited my mechanic today and all issues were attended to and all error codes cleared itself without using the scanner to clear it and no single notification light on dashboard.

Car drove smoothly and quieter.... Few meters away from home, I decided to buy fuel at NNPC, after purchase and driving out car started same issue again and went off in the middle of the road, I started it again and it was struggling to accelerate.

I parked and decided to scan and it brought back the knock Sensor bank 1 error code P0325, P0011, P0404 again just like it did before I went to fix it.

Issues:
-Car keeps struggling to accelerate, and I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to even gain 40kmph

- Exhaust keeps vibrating like it's struggling to cough out something

- increased Heat coming from below the dashboard region.

Please I need an advise on this please. I spent so much already today just to get the issue fixed but I'm still faced with same challenge.

CC: Bullfallo , jceesquare

Macmilla:

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

What a stretch chain would offset is the synchronized movement of the crank and cam components which the valve train is part of.
Physical diagnosis would be your best bet actually.

Macmilla:

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

If the replaced chain caused the sound, take it out to inspect if it's the right type.

Cryomancer:


Just to give an update on this issue.

I visited my mechanic today and all issues were attended to and all error codes cleared itself without using the scanner to clear it and no single notification light on dashboard.

Car drove smoothly and quieter.... Few meters away from home, I decided to buy fuel at NNPC, after purchase and driving out car started same issue again and went off in the middle of the road, I started it again and it was struggling to accelerate.

I parked and decided to scan and it brought back the knock Sensor bank 1 error code P0325, P0011, P0404 again just like it did before I went to fix it.

Issues:
-Car keeps struggling to accelerate, and I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to even gain 40kmph

- Exhaust keeps vibrating like it's struggling to cough out something

- increased Heat coming from below the dashboard region.

Please I need an advise on this please. I spent so much already today just to get the issue fixed but I'm still faced with same challenge.

CC: Bullfallo , jceesquare

What car is this?
Check the knock sensor wires, and Knock sensor itself.
If bad, fix or replace as the case may be.
Kindly say what car it is for the EGR code.

jceesquare:

What car is this?
Check the knock sensor wires, and Knock sensor itself.
If bad, fix or replace as the case may be.
Kindly say what car it is for the EGR code.

Car is Honda Accord 2004.

The knock sensor was changed to a brand new one today and it was confirmed to be working after it was fixed, the knock sensor wires are also in good condition as inspected by the mechanic and I.

Have they checked the spark plugs?

Niyijac:
Have they checked the spark plugs?

All plugs and coils were brought out to confirm their integrity and they all check out fine.

Hello Guru's in the house, good morning to you all.
I noticed my 2007 accord has this obvious jerk when shifting from gear 1 to gear 2. The RPM revs high then gbam, the sudden shift to gear 2.
Other gears engage smoothly.
Once this happens the first time, it doesn't happen again until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool down.
My friend who drives same car has similar issue.
What could be the problem?

Good afternoon

Please I just changed my Engine and the car has been working very well.

I got into traffic and 30 mins into the traffic, it was a day when the sun was so Hot, and I was on AC prior to entering the traffic.

I noticed my car started showing high temperature and I put of the AC and I didn't have no issues. I have always used the car with the AC since I changed the Engine and never had any issues although I have never encountered that kind of traffic before.

Talked to my mechanic said I should change the radiator to a double cell.

What could be wrong and the permanent solution?

I had same issue with my last engine too that one once I enter traffic for 10 mins or more the temperature rises very high.

Please help me

Check the fan and ensure its working especially when the AC is turned ON.
Also, change your radiator to double cell and then observe again.
If you are not able to change the radiator now due to financial constraints, then go to the car wash and let them use their pressure hose to wash the radiator.
It can probably be clogged with dirts.

temi4fash:
Good afternoon

Please I just changed my Engine and the car has been working very well.

I got into traffic and 30 mins into the traffic, it was a day when the sun was so Hot, and I was on AC prior to entering the traffic.

I noticed my car started showing high temperature and I put of the AC and I didn't have no issues. I have always used the car with the AC since I changed the Engine and never had any issues although I have never encountered that kind of traffic before.

Talked to my mechanic said I should change the radiator to a double cell.

What could be wrong and the permanent solution?

I had same issue with my last engine too that one once I enter traffic for 10 mins or more the temperature rises very high.

Please help me

kelvinmnet:
Check the fan and ensure its working especially when the AC is turned ON.
Also, change your radiator to double cell and then observe again.
If you are not able to change the radiator now due to financial constraints, then go to the car wash and let them use their pressure hose to wash the radiator.
It can probably be clogged with dirts.

Ok thanks I would try that too..

Macmilla:



Update on my 2003 accord k24:
So I replaced the VTC solenoid, cleaned the strainer, cleaned the vtec solenoid filter. Most dtc codes disappeared but car was sluggish af. Overtake on the highway was risky.
I remember I noticed my timing was off at a point and couldn't get it to align well, which means my timing chain was stretched. So I had it removed and compared it with a replacement. It was stretched by More than a tooth. Weird
So with a new chain installed, my timing marks were spot on.
On a test ride, car was powerful again
But I still have issues.
1. Check engine light keeps coming on with a "Pending code" p0011 no matter how many times I erase it. I was told it will erase on its own after some oil changes. I'm just hoping it does cos it's annoying. Car still moves well.
2. If I hold the brake and shift into reverse when idling, the engine has a marked vibration with a loud rattling from the belt side. Sounds like a piece of metal hitting metal. Like the timing chain is hitting something. This rattling started immediately after the timing chain replacement. I've replaced the timing chain tensioner and it didn't affect the sound. Belt adjuster, water pump and belt swapped and no change in the rattle. I'm confused at this point. This rattling is NOT present at normal idle and not present at high rpm. It is only present when reverse or drive is engaged while hold ing the brakes, or when I come to a stop holding the brake but still in gear. The engine vibration is high at this point.
I need help. Is there something like a bad chain when it's not physically deformed or stretched? Is there something I did or didn't do that is probably making the chain loose and wobbly to be hitting somewhere? Is the noise causing the vibration or the vibration is causing the noise? Make una help me please.

Baba once you begin getting timing codes and have a problem going uphill (loss of power) then your engine has to be torn apart to rule out chain stretch, or lifters issue, you need a pro for this, if these problems are manageable, kindly do so until you find a very good mechanic, trying to fix at a quack's place will result in a bigger headache.
If your noise was at cold start up, and would go away after a few seconds then you know it's either the chain or lifters or both, what you have has a thing with what you replaced, just like the pros in the house have mentioned, change your mechanic, maybe consult any of these pros If you're close to them, your new chain could be a knockoff, might not be installed properly.
Na why these dealers dey always add "unopened engine" phrase on top their ads lol, opening an engine to fix whatever isn't bad, it's in fact very beneficial if done by a professional, the solution can't always be about replacing the engine, even auto manufacturers remanufacture engines, opening an engine up and replacing a worn or defective part isn't a sin, it becomes one if not done by a professional.

Hello House,

I drive a Honda pilot 2006
Just noticed this afternoon that my car jerks when it try to change to the second gear

What could be cause as I'm confused on these

Hello House,

I drive a Honda Pilot 2006
Just noticed this afternoon that my car jerks when it tries to change to the second gear

What could be the cause as I'm confused on this.

Highziq:
Hello House,

I drive a Honda Pilot 2006
Just noticed this afternoon that my car jerks when it tries to change to the second gear

What could be the cause as I'm confused on this.

Scan transmission for codes.

Hello house good day, My accord 08, jerks whenever in drive and whenever it enters gear 3, I scanned the problem and this code was presented p0970.

Found that the solenoid switch is broken. Where can I get a good one in ibadan please?

Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

Bullfallo:
sandpaper the sensor surface with smooth sandpaper before install

The abs, vsa and triangle are the same

Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

jceesquare:
fix the leak or replace faulty components.

Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

Conner44:


That is the proper thing to do if the funds to change isn't floating around near you. The k24 gearbox isn't hard to work on. Most of these issues are tiny. So far your clutch packs are still okay the valve body can be replaced in a rebuild. If you open it up and you don't see metal particles in the sump (worn out/degraded clutches) then you have a 50% probability of just changing out the solenoid and you're good to go.

Good luck

Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

shininglite:



Hello honda Gurus in the house, please I need help

My honda civic 2008 American spec developed gear issue, I had to replace the gear.
The new gear was fixed but drive Light keeps blinking on the dashboard when I'm driving, The transmission isn't smooth as before. It takes longer time to move from gear 1 to 2. And it jerks when I accelerate beyond 30mph
It also refuses to accelerate when slow down in traffic, I'll have to put more pressure on the acceleration pedal before it picks up.

When I turn off the car and restart it after few minutes, the blinking D light stops and reappears after driving for 20 minutes.

I have scanned the car twice, no fault was detected.
The old gear was working perfectly before it got bad.

Please I need help

Rescan your transmission with a professional scan tool.
If in Lagos and need assistance, kindly call 07089030689

theadeola:


Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

So I opened my valve cover today to see what I could find cos that noise is still killing me. Nothing seems largely out of place. Timing chain is not loose and has no sign of hitting anything. A few valves were too tight and I adjusted them. But after everything, the devilish sound continued unchanged.
I noticed the sound is louder from the passenger tire well. Having replaced the timing chain tensioner, I am so confused right now.

Note: my pending p0011 code has not returned for 3days now.

Macmilla:

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Macmilla:

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

Also, where can one buy the Transmission filter for the 2003 - 2007 accord.
See image below of the filter and the part no.

This filter is located externally on the gearbox.
See this youtube video link for better understanding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZAmcEf9LrY&t=457s

kelvinmnet:
Hello Guru's in the house, good morning to you all.

I noticed my 2007 accord has this obvious jerk when shifting from gear 1 to gear 2. The RPM revs high then gbam, the sudden shift to gear 2.

Other gears engage smoothly.

Once this happens the first time, it doesn't happen again until the engine is turned off and allowed to cool down.

My friend who drives same car has similar issue.

What could be the problem?

jceesquare:

See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

My chairman, this has been done at least twice. I even joined in trying to find the culprit but couldn't. On one occasion, the kazeem said it's the water pump. But when I brought the water pump, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The bearing seemed very smooth. Other parts sellers insisted the water pump is not faulty. so I put it back.
But I'll take your advice and do it again. Maybe I'll get lucky this time. Or I will just close eye and throw in a new water pump.
Thanks for the advice.

Macmilla:

My chairman, this has been done at least twice. I even joined in trying to find the culprit but couldn't. On one occasion, the kazeem said it's the water pump. But when I brought the water pump, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The bearing seemed very smooth. Other parts sellers insisted the water pump is not faulty. so I put it back.
But I'll take your advice and do it again. Maybe I'll get lucky this time. Or I will just close eye and throw in a new water pump.
Thanks for the advice.

Honda and plenty wahala