jceesquare:

What car is this?

My bad, honda accord 2003 Euro.

My Honda fan boys, You guys should help me. I've bought Abs sensor, Oxygen sensor, Etc just to fix all this many lights on my dashboard.

The main ones are:

ABS
VSA
The Triangular symbol.

My car runs fine, but this Christmas lights pisses me off.

I know the driver side airbag has issue so that symbol I can live with. Also I wasn't putting my seat belt on here so the seat belt sign is on.

Car model: ACURA TSX 2009

Whitemagic:
My Honda fan boys, You guys should help me. I've bought Abs sensor (didn't test if it was working before fixing it though), I've bought Oxygen sensor, Etc just to fix all this many lights on my dashboard.

The main ones are:

ABS
VSA
The Triangular symbol.

My car runs fine, but this Christmas lights pisses me off.

I know the driver side airbag has issue so that symbol I can live with. Also I wasn't putting my seat belt on here so the seat belt sign is on.

Car model: ACURA TSX 2009

Bullfallo , jceesquare and the other bosses in the house

Whitemagic:


Bullfallo , jceesquare and the other bosses in the house

sandpaper the sensor surface with smooth sandpaper before install

The abs, vsa and triangle are the same

Greetings, my Honda dc 06 was displaying oil life 15% some weeks ago and I went for servicing and the oil was replaced but the oil life keeps showing and now it’s at 10%. Please what’s wrong with it any help.

DrPureheart:
Greetings, my Honda dc 06 was displaying oil life 15% some weeks ago and I went for servicing and the oil was replaced but the oil life keeps showing and now it’s at 10%. Please what’s wrong with it any help.

Did you do an oil service reset?

searchng4love:

Did you do an oil service reset?

No I didn’t. I only serviced the car

DrPureheart:

No I didn’t. I only serviced the car

You have to reset the oil life after servicing. Go to YouTube and watch how to reset your oil life. It is a simple process that is suppose to be done immediately you change your oil.

vivalavida:


You have to reset the oil life after servicing. Go and YouTube and watch how to reset your oil life. It is a simple process that is suppose to be done immediately you change your oil.

Thanks I just did

DrPureheart:

No I didn’t. I only serviced the car

You need to.

theadeola:


How about the intake camshaft solenoid? It might be bad, or the tiny filters might be blocked.

Macmilla:

You mean the VTC solenoid? That has been cleaned and tested. It seemed ok to me. But I might just replace it and see.

Update on my 2003 accord k24:
So I replaced the VTC solenoid, cleaned the strainer, cleaned the vtec solenoid filter. Most dtc codes disappeared but car was sluggish af. Overtake on the highway was risky.
I remember I noticed my timing was off at a point and couldn't get it to align well, which means my timing chain was stretched. So I had it removed and compared it with a replacement. It was stretched by More than a tooth. Weird
So with a new chain installed, my timing marks were spot on.
On a test ride, car was powerful again
But I still have issues.
1. Check engine light keeps coming on with a "Pending code" p0011 no matter how many times I erase it. I was told it will erase on its own after some oil changes. I'm just hoping it does cos it's annoying. Car still moves well.
2. If I hold the brake and shift into reverse when idling, the engine has a marked vibration with a loud rattling from the belt side. Sounds like a piece of metal hitting metal. Like the timing chain is hitting something. This rattling started immediately after the timing chain replacement. I've replaced the timing chain tensioner and it didn't affect the sound. Belt adjuster, water pump and belt swapped and no change in the rattle. I'm confused at this point. This rattling is NOT present at normal idle and not present at high rpm. It is only present when reverse or drive is engaged while hold ing the brakes, or when I come to a stop holding the brake but still in gear. The engine vibration is high at this point.
I need help. Is there something like a bad chain when it's not physically deformed or stretched? Is there something I did or didn't do that is probably making the chain loose and wobbly to be hitting somewhere? Is the noise causing the vibration or the vibration is causing the noise? Make una help me please.

Macmilla:



Update on my 2003 accord k24:
So I replaced the VTC solenoid, cleaned the strainer, cleaned the vtec solenoid filter. Most dtc codes disappeared but car was sluggish af. Overtake on the highway was risky.
I remember I noticed my timing was off at a point and couldn't get it to align well, which means my timing chain was stretched. So I had it removed and compared it with a replacement. It was stretched by More than a tooth. Weird
So with a new chain installed, my timing marks were spot on.
On a test ride, car was powerful again
But I still have issues.
1. Check engine light keeps coming on with a "Pending code" p0011 no matter how many times I erase it. I was told it will erase on its own after some oil changes. I'm just hoping it does cos it's annoying. Car still moves well.
2. If I hold the brake and shift into reverse when idling, the engine has a marked vibration with a loud rattling from the belt side. Sounds like a piece of metal hitting metal. Like the timing chain is hitting something. This rattling started immediately after the timing chain replacement. I've replaced the timing chain tensioner and it didn't affect the sound. Belt adjuster, water pump and belt swapped and no change in the rattle. I'm confused at this point. This rattling is NOT present at normal idle and not present at high rpm. It is only present when reverse or drive is engaged while hold ing the brakes, or when I come to a stop holding the brake but still in gear. The engine vibration is high at this point.
I need help. Is there something like a bad chain when it's not physically deformed or stretched? Is there something I did or didn't do that is probably making the chain loose and wobbly to be hitting somewhere? Is the noise causing the vibration or the vibration is causing the noise? Make una help me please.

Er, not too sure what the problem can be, but I can suggest checks based on what you said.

1) I don't think the rattle is connected to the engine itself, since it is not present in normal idle or high rpms. Something might be loosely tightened around the adjuster area. It can also be your engine seats. Have a mechanic check them thoroughly to ensure none is damaged. I know the tranny side mounts can cause vibration in drive but not park, idle or reverse. Make sure to check the tranny mounts well for this.

2) That p0011 code is a pain in the ass, for lack of a better description. My Accord 2008 also has it, and I've done everything short of tearing the engine apart, still won't clear. Hopefully it clears, but I can't promise it will.
Check for sludge in your engine as a sort of a last resort.

DrPureheart:

Thanks I just did

that shit is pegged at 5000 miles.

If you love your engine change the oil at 50%- 40%

theadeola:


Er, not too sure what the problem can be, but I can suggest checks based on what you said.

1) I don't think the rattle is connected to the engine itself, since it is not present in normal idle or high rpms. Something might be loosely tightened around the adjuster area. It can also be your engine seats. Have a mechanic check them thoroughly to ensure none is damaged. I know the tranny side mounts can cause vibration in drive but not park, idle or reverse. Make sure to check the tranny mounts well for this.

2) That p0011 code is a pain in the ass, for lack of a better description. My Accord 2008 also has it, and I've done everything short of tearing the engine apart, still won't clear. Hopefully it clears, but I can't promise it will.
Check for sludge in your engine as a sort of a last resort.

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.

Macmilla:

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.

Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

theadeola:


Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

Macmilla:

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Macmilla:

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

Where is the RPM when you observe this vibration and rattle?

Why do people go against you buying Honda as your first car?

Honda fans need your advice.

Idaok007:
Why do people go against you buying Honda as your first car?

Honda fans need your advice.

Cos most Nigerians don't adhere to proper maintenance and your Honda would be so unforgiving if you don't pay attention to it.

Idaok007:
Why do people go against you buying Honda as your first car?

Honda fans need your advice.

Because a Honda needs proper maintenance with the right fluids and parts. Do that, and you will thoroughly enjoy your Honda.

But most people, either through genuine lack or carelessness are not able to, and both them and their Honda suffer as a result.

jceesquare:

Where is the RPM when you observe this vibration and rattle?

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

theadeola:




Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

Macmilla:

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

Macmilla:

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

Here's an idea; ask a technician to check the heat shields of your exhaust in front. Had a very annoying rattling sound when accelerating with my car and for a long time, I couldn't figure it out. Turned out it was a heat shield bolt and some weird resonance that caused it. The rattling then would only happen at 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm

Macmilla:

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

jceesquare:

Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

jceesquare:

Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

theadeola:


we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

Macmilla:

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

jceesquare:

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

jceesquare:

Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

This was my first thought too.

Macmilla:

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

Do you have a scanner close by? If yes, check the idle target for the ECU. Staying at 1000 rpm is very unusual imo for your engine.