calabaman:
Good evening auto gurus.

Please who has any idea how much is the following items for civic 07:

-- Back shock absorbers(left n right)
-- Fanbelt adjuster

The price may vary According to some seller
Back shocks new ones will be 12k
But UK used as it is refer to will go for 6k max
Fan belt adjuster is 4k the last time I bought it

Blackbishop:


The price may vary According to some seller
Back shocks new ones will be 12k
But UK used as it is refer to will go for 6k max
Fan belt adjuster is 4k the last time I bought it

Thanks a lot.

Good day famz, this is a question I get from a customer and am going to be bringing it here to teach you how to handle such issues.


Frequently Asked Question about White Smoke From Exhaust
Why My Car Has White Smoke From Exhaust When Starting?
White smoke can be caused by many reasons. But if you get white smoke from exhaust at startup, it might be from these reasons:

A cracked or warped cylinder head.
Head gasket failure
Cracked engine block
One of the most common cause, cracked engine block may allow coolant to leak inside the engine combustion chamber and cylinders, which is very dangerous and requires special attention.

What Causes White Smoke From Exhaust When Accelerating?
The answer is either transmission fluid or burning coolant.

In transmission fluid case, the engine is sucking the fluid through a vacuum hose, which leads to the color white from smoke. The exhaust will also have a burned oil smell. If the white smoke is coolant, your car is definitely having a crack in the cylinder head or a leaky head gasket, along with a sweet smell.

In this situation, you can pressure test the cooling system if the coolant is low or the engine has been overheating. If it does not, your vehicle is mostly having a leaking gasket. You need to replace in order for it to work normally again.

When the fluid is the problem, drivers can fix by replacing the transmission vacuum modulator valve. Also, notice its level: If it is low, you can add the required type of fluid to restore the level.

What Causes White Smoke From Exhaust Smells Like Gas?
Drivers must understand the concept of smoke from cars. Usually, it is water vapor or steam, since it is introduced into the chamber. For that reason, you will have the water dripping from the tailpipe. Drivers can also see the water in the fuel or a leak in the head gasket.

You might think it is normal, but that is the engine misfiring and pushing raw fuel out. In those cases, the car will be running rough and drivers can smell a raw fuel smell.

In order to fix this, just check the fuel injection system and replace the necessary parts if necessary.

What Causes White Smoke From Exhaust When Idle?
If you have white smoke from exhaust when stopping or idling, your combustion chambers engine might get oil inside, which cause them to burn off the exhaust. This will cause white smoke, along with the idle issue. This is very easy to recognize since there is a difference between burning gasoline explosion and a burning oil explosion.

This problem should be fixed soon since the longer the oil stays inside, the more damage it causes for the spark plugs, which might require replacement.

What Causes White Smoke From Exhaust When Cold?
In the cold weather, the white smoke can be quite normal, but in some situations, it is not. Continuous white smoke while driving is one of them. If you are having a diesel, white smoke may be unburned fuel or coolant going through the engine. But mostly, it is the incorrect injector timing in the cylinders.

What is the difference between White Smoke From Exhaust Diesel Engine and Petrol Engine?
White smoke from exhaust diesel and petrol engine may be the signal of different car problems. Let’s check out these probable reasons that cause white smoke from exhaust issue.

Diagnosis

Diesel Engine

Common Causes
Leaking coolant or water dripping into combustion chamber • Bad head gasket
• Cracked block or cylinder head


Petrol Engine

Common Causes
Incomplete air/fuel
mixture • Faulty fuel injection system
• Incorrect fuel injection and valve timing
• Engine overheating
• Faulty fuel pump and/or injection pump

Blackbishop:
Good day famz

Hello boss

StarMonkey:
Hello boss, please do you have an idea how much it'll cost to change oxygen sensor in 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe? Thanks

How many of the O2 sensors?
But each will cost you #30,000

[b]Timing belt or chain[/b]

The timing belt is an internal engine component that rotates the engine's cam and crankshaft in sync and ensures each cylinder fires at the appropriate time. The timing belt is located under a timing cover and is in the front of the engine. However, it is subject to incredible forces inside your motor and will need to be replaced eventually. Without a fully functioning timing belt, your engine will not run.

Not all engines have a timing belt. The timing belt is commonly found in cars and SUVs with smaller displacement engines. When an engine has a larger bore and stroke, most automotive manufacturers utilize a timing chain system that replaces the rubber belt with a metal chain. Generally, timing chains last longer than timing belts, with some rated to last the lifetime of the car. Most automotive manufacturers have a predetermined recommendation on when you should replace the timing belt, but there are a few warning indicators that a problem exists.

Some of the typical damage done to a vehicle with a broken timing belt includes damage to cylinder head hardware (rocker arms, push rods or valves), damage to crank bearings or the oil pump inside the oil pan.

Symptoms of a failing or bad timing belt or chain.
1. You Hear Odd Noises Coming From The Engine

2. Your Check Engine Light Is On And Flashing

3. Your Car Starts Hard And Occasionally Misfires

4. You Notice A Loss Of Power And Your Car Runs Or Idles More Roughly Than Normal

Note: Generally, timing belts should be replaced every 60-80,000 miles. Check your car’s specific manual for service intervals.

EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System

What does it do?

The Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP) is used to prevent gasoline vapors from escaping into the atmosphere from the fuel tank and fuel system, which is re introduced into the combustion chamber to be used. The EVAP system usually requires no maintenance, but faults can turn on the Check Engine light and prevent a vehicle from passing an OBD II plug-in emissions test


The code is common with Honda Accord, CRV, civic, Honda P1457 code is usually caused by the vent valve on the charcoal canister located under the car, near the fuel tank

Causes of P1457 Code on Vehicles

If the EVAP system fails the self-test at least twice it will turn on the check engine light (also known as CEL or MIL).

Typically code P1457 on vehicles does not really impact engine performance. Even though the engine runs without any performance decrease, it is recommended to get code P1457 fixed as soon as possible.

The most common problem that will trigger P1457 fault is Honda EVAP canister vent shut valve. The valve usually gets stuck due to corrosion or leaks.

Defective 2 Way Bypass Valve. 

Damaged or crimped vacuum line to the charcoal canister

Symptoms
1. Check engine light
2. Fails emission control test.

The Common Problem: Engine Noises

When an unfamiliar noise starts coming from somewhere under the hood, people get scared. They may not know enough about complex engine systems to know if it’s something to worry about or not. Let’s discuss some of the source areas mechanics find to be the most common places for engine noises to originate from

Valve Train Noise

Valve and hydraulic lifter noise has a clicking sound that usually quiets down as you raise the engine RPM’s. A lifter is what opens and closes intake and exhaust valves. These noises can be caused by worn or sticking hydraulic lifters. Sticking lifters in most cases is caused by a varnish build up on the lifter surfaces. They may also be caused by low oil pressure (which would cause a hydraulic lifter to collapse).

Sticking lifter problems can many times be solved by adding a detergent additive to the oil. If this doesn’t do away with the noise, then the worn lifters that continue to make noise would require replacement. This is not an easy or cheap job and will need to be done by a trained auto repair technician. 

Timing Chain Noise

Many of the newer engines have overhead camshafts with longer timing chains. A timing chain connects the crankshaft to the camshaft to insure the valves open at the proper time. The slack in these chains is usually kept tight by hydraulic tensioners. The chains ride against a nylon guide (a chain guide) which, in time, begins to wear. At the point where the chain guides are worn beyond the ability of the hydraulic tensioner to take up the slack, the timing chain begins to rattle. This noise is caused by the timing chains becoming so loose that they whip back and forth against the guides and possibly the timing cover.

If the oil pressure is correct, replacement of the hydraulic tensioners and chain guides would be required. A mechanic’s stethoscope is a great tool to pinpoint this noise. If the noise is loudest when touching the timing cover with the stethoscope disassembly would be required to confirm and to repair the problem. This is a semi major job for most of these engines and would usually cost in the five digit range.

Detonation, Pre-ignition (Pinging) Noise

You usually hear this noise when accelerating the vehicle. Most people call this a pinging or rattling sound. This noise is caused by an air/fuel mixture in the engine cylinder being ignited prematurely by the heat of compression as the piston is moving up on the compression stroke. If ignition happens before the piston reaches the top of its stroke, this is called pre-ignition or pre-detonation, which can damage the pistons, valves and connecting rods. They get damaged because the fuel igniting too early produces pressure waves from the fuel’s explosion in the cylinder, which collide with the cylinder as it’s moving up. And that’s also why you hear the pinging and rattling noises.

Some of the causes of this condition are improper fuel octane, engine overheating, improper ignition timing, the EGR valve not functioning properly and problems with the computer or knock sensor. All these conditions can cause the air fuel mixture in the cylinders to ignite before it’s supposed to. This creates multiple flame fronts in the cylinder fighting each other and causing the pinging and rattling noise. Check your owner’s manual to make sure you’re using the right grade of fuel. Or you can switch to a higher grade for a period and see if the noise goes away. If it doesn’t, you’ll want to look at these other possible causes.


Connecting Rod Noise

Connecting rod noise is caused by excessive clearance between the crankshaft and the connecting rod bearing surface. This happens when you have low oil pressure causing the bearing to run dry of lubrication, which in turn will damage the bearing and crankshaft surfaces. This can also be caused by poor maintenance practices such as not changing oil at a regular interval. The oil gets dirty and grit can wear the surface of the bearings. The noise you hear is a knock that is heard towards the bottom of the engine. The noise is usually heard when you hold the throttle at a steady RPM. If it sounds like a single knock, you (or your mechanic) can isolate the cylinder by disabling the spark or the fuel injector for each cylinder one at a time. When the noise goes away or gets much quieter, you have found the problem. Problems like this require immediate attention because continued running of the engine in this condition will damage the crankshaft and require a major engine overhaul. The rule of thumb is, once you hear the noise there is a high probability you will need major engine work in the four figure cost range.

Crankshaft Bearing Noise

Crankshaft bearing noise is also caused by low oil pressure which damages the bearing surfaces and could eventually damage the crankshaft itself. This type of noise is usually described as a rumbling or thumping sound deep in the engine when accelerating. If this sound is heard, it is extremely important that the engine not be run again until the oil pan is removed and the crankshaft bearings are inspected. In many cases the engine can be saved if the crankshaft is not damaged. A mechanic will fix the problem by replacing the bearings and solving the oil pressure problem. Bearing shells are what the crankshaft rotates within. If you continue to run the engine with this condition, you will most certainly cause a major engine failure. It is also a high possibility that when you hear the noise it may be too late to save it without removing the engine. This can be an expensive repair in the four figure cost range.

Piston Slap

This noise is caused by excessive clearance between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall, and is usually found on high mileage vehicles. The usual cause of this problem is cracks in the lower piston skirt. The piston skirt is the lower part of the piston which will develop cracks over time due to metal fatigue. The noise sounds like a muffled bell sound or a hollow clatter deep in the engine and is more noticeable when the engine is cold. If the noise goes away when the engine warms up, nothing needs to be done. The clearance is reduced by the expansion of the piston skirt as the engine comes up to temperature, and in many cases the noise goes away completely. If the noise is reduced when the engine temperature rises but does not go away, then replacing the piston itself would be the most likely remedy. There is really nothing you can do to prevent this problem and, luckily, it’s not as serious a repair job as some of the ones above.

Piston Pin Noise

Piston pin noise is similar to valve train noise. The noise is unique because you will hear a double knocking sound caused by the lack of oil and excessive clearance between the piston pin and the piston. A piston pin attaches the connecting rod to the piston. It is lubricated by oil which is sprayed onto the pin through a hole in the opposing cylinder’s connecting rod.

This condition can only be remedied by replacing the piston pin bushings, possibly even the piston itself, along with solving the oil pressure or lubrication problem. Problems like this are usually a result of worn connecting rod and crankshaft bearings which reduces oil pressure. If you have this problem, it will result in major engine work in the four figure cost range.

Whining Noise

A whining noise when an engine is running is usually an indication of a bearing that is on the verge of failure. This noise will increase as the engine RPMs increase.

Remember, though, that there are multiple places in the engine where bearings are used. Thus, there are several items under the hood that can make this kind of whining sound. The water pump, air conditioner clutch bearing (which will only be heard when the compressor is not engaged), fan belt idler pulleys or belt tensioner, alternator and the power steering pump – these are all possible sources for whining sounds indicating future bearing failure.

Spend a little money now to save a lot of money later.

Power Steering Noise.

For most cars still on power steering pump, you need to read this. Most cars now comes with EPS Electronic Power Steering which eliminates the extra pulley for the belt and extra oil compartment.

Whining from the power steering pump will get louder when turning the steering wheel from side to side and the usual cause is low power steering fluid. The best way to diagnose the other bearing noises is with a mechanic’s stethoscope. Failure to repair any one of the items making a whining sound can result in a vehicle break down. Not only that, but other engine components can be damaged when parts with bearings eventually come apart. So it’s a smart idea to get this kind of problem checked out.

Good morning black bishop

I noticed once I put on my car ignition my both fans start spinning even on cold morning and when the AC is off.

I scanned the car and got a code that had to do with engine temperature sensor circuit 2 low. could that be a factor while both fans are always on. This also affects gas mileage

secondly can I have the price for front shocks toks, back brake linning and rear bushings. it's a civic 06

Thanks

ciggy000:
Good morning black bishop

I noticed once I put on my car ignition my both fans start spinning even on cold morning and when the AC is off.

I scanned the car and got a code that had to do with engine temperature sensor circuit 2 low. could that be a factor while both fans are always on. This also affects gas mileage

secondly can I have the price for front shocks toks, back brake linning and rear bushings. it's a civic 06

Thanks

The code is P1284 and provable causes are

Low coolant level
Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Stuck or leaking thermostat
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Another thing to understand here is if your thermostat is still intact?

For the other stuff pls

Chat me up sir

Blackbishop:


The code is P1284 and provable causes are

Low coolant level
Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Stuck or leaking thermostat
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Another thing to understand here is if your thermostat is still intact?

For the other stuff pls

Chat me up sir

@Blackbishop, When buying a tokunbo car, Pls advise on what to change b4 using the car.

sheu01:


@Blackbishop, When buying a tokunbo car, Pls advise on what to change b4 using the car.

Mostly the Lube services and transmission fluid too. But apart from that you need a comprehensive diagnosis to know more..

Thanks

B-Automobile Nigeria Limited
08055347947

PRE-IGNITION

The process of a gasoline engine coming to life involves 3 element namely
Gasoline
Air and
Spark
This three are required at a ratio and are measured to the desirable limit.
In a situation you have more fuel than air in the combustion chamber it is called RICH MIXTURE.

RICH MIXTURE

A rich mixture is a fuel/air mixture containing an excessive proportion of fuel. A rich mixture may be desirable under certain operating conditions, such as when the engine is under load. A rich mixture provides enough fuel to use up all of the oxygen in the cylinder

While in the situation you have more Air than fuel in the combustion chamber it is called LEAN MIXTURE

LEAN MIXTURE

A lean mixture is a fuel/air mixture containing a relatively low proportion of fuel. A lean mixture can be caused by too little fuel or too much air. Too much oxygen indicates a lean mixture and the need for less fuel.

We are going to be treating the Rich and Lean mixture in out next slide


Now there is one thing that affect your engine and it is called PRE-IGNITION

What is a Pre-Ignition?


The definition of pre-ignition is the ignition of the fuel/air charge prior to the spark plug firing. Pre-ignition caused by some other ignition source such as an overheated spark plug tip, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and, rarely, a burned exhaust valve; all act as a glow plug to ignite the charge.

Causes of pre-ignition include the following:

Carbon deposits form a heat barrier and can be a contributing factor to pre-ignition. Other causes include: An overheated spark plug (too hot a heat range for the application). Glowing carbon deposits on a hot exhaust valve (which may mean the valve is running too hot because of poor seating, a weak valve spring or insufficient valve lash)

A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston (rounding sharp edges with a grinder can eliminate this cause)

Sharp edges on valves that were reground improperly (not enough margin left on the edges)

A lean fuel mixture

An engine that is running hotter than normal due to a cooling system problem (low coolant level, slipping fan clutch, inoperative electric cooling fan or other cooling system problem)

Auto-ignition of engine oil droplets

Insufficient oil in the engine

Ignition timing too far advanced

Excessive amount of oxygen in the combustion chamber



Pre-ignition and engine knock both sharply increase combustion chamber temperatures. Consequently, either effect increases the likelihood of the other effect occurring, and both can produce similar effects from the operator's perspective, such as rough engine operation or loss of performance due to operational intervention by a powertrain-management computer. For reasons like these, a person not familiarized with the distinction might describe one by the name of the other. Given proper combustion chamber design, pre-ignition can generally be eliminated by proper spark plug selection, proper fuel/air mixture adjustment, and periodic cleaning of the combustion chambers.

From experience you are likely to experience rough idling or vibrating engine. It all depends on a good Technician to differentiate and analyze properly.

Bad or Failing Alternator

I just finish working on a customer's car, the customer came with the complaint of rough idling and scanned the car to discover Engine Misfire and Camshaft Position Sensor and I recommended the plugs to be changed and the sensor too.

After the whole repair the car refuse to crank, at first I thought this is a drained battery symptom.
I jump start the car and it was running fine only to act out of curiosity if the battery is the problem or the alternator.
So I removed the negative terminal and the car went off, I jump start and repeat the same procedure few times to be sure of the bad alternator.
So in conclusion the alternator was bad and I advised the customer to get a new one.

So I will give few signs to indicate your alternator is going bad

Symptoms of a Failing Alternator

The indicator light on the dashboard.. Mostly battery sign or Alt sign or Gen sign

Headlights are dim or flickering.

Other electrical failures. ...

Strange noises. ...

Car stalls or has difficulty starting. ...

Battery dies

So when you start experiencing any or all of this symptoms take it to your nearest qualified Auto Technician..

B-Automobile Nigeria Limited

Blackbishop:
EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System

What does it do?

The Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP) is used to prevent gasoline vapors from escaping into the atmosphere from the fuel tank and fuel system, which is re introduced into the combustion chamber to be used. The EVAP system usually requires no maintenance, but faults can turn on the Check Engine light and prevent a vehicle from passing an OBD II plug-in emissions test


The code is common with Honda Accord, CRV, civic, Honda P1457 code is usually caused by the vent valve on the charcoal canister located under the car, near the fuel tank

Causes of P1457 Code on Vehicles

If the EVAP system fails the self-test at least twice it will turn on the check engine light (also known as CEL or MIL).

Typically code P1457 on vehicles does not really impact engine performance. Even though the engine runs without any performance decrease, it is recommended to get code P1457 fixed as soon as possible.

The most common problem that will trigger P1457 fault is Honda EVAP canister vent shut valve. The valve usually gets stuck due to corrosion or leaks.

Defective 2 Way Bypass Valve. 

Damaged or crimped vacuum line to the charcoal canister

Symptoms
1. Check engine light
2. Fails emission control test.

can this affect The fuel consumption of a car

oluyemifelix:
can this affect The fuel consumption of a car

RE: Evap error = bad mileage Having a CEL on will affect your mileage. Your motor will run a little richer. Often true, but not always. It depends on which error code, and what exact problem caused it to throw that code

thanks boss.

Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical

Description
OBD-II Trouble Code Description for P0743 Hyundai
Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical

What does this mean?
OBD2 Code P0743 Hyundai definition:

The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid valve is activated, with the gear in D4, by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the vehicle speed and the Engine Control Module (ECM). Lock-up piston operation will then be controlled. When the torque converter clutch solenoid valve is activated, the torque converter lockup clutch will engage creating a 1 to 1 RPM ratio between the transmission input shaft and the rotational speed of the torque converter. Lock-up operation, however, is prohibited when A/T fluid temperature is too low. When the accelerator pedal is depressed (less than 2/ in lock-up condition, the engine speed should not change abruptly. If there is a big jump in engine speed, there is no lock-up.

Symptoms
Possible sumptoms of OBD code P0743 Hyundai

– Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning
Light)

--- Overheating of the the transmission system

--- No shifting at high speed


Causes
Possible causes of OBD code P0743 Hyundai
– Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve
– Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness or connectors
– Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted
– Low transmission fluid level
– Dirty transmission fluid The Error code is generally activated on detection of the following conditions: By performing a voltage drop test, the ECM detects that the TCC solenoid circuit is open or shorted.

Possible Solutions
--- Replacing the TCC solenoid
--- Checking the harnesses, ground cable or open circuit
--- Changing the tranny fluid
--- Servicing the tranny filter

From
B-Automobile Nigeria Limited
08055347947


To All Muslim brothers and sisters

Happy Eid Al Fitr
Wishing you all goodness and abundance of more blessings from Allah

Blackbishop:



RE: Evap error = bad mileage Having a CEL on will affect your mileage. Your motor will run a little richer. Often true, but not always. It depends on which error code, and what exact problem caused it to throw that code

Boss, any possible causes of engine oil shortage? No visible leakages and the engine is not smoking...

InfinityEstates:


Boss, any possible causes of engine oil shortage? No visible leakages and the engine is not smoking...

If no visible leakages and doesn't smoke

I will suggest to check the kind of oil you are using sir, if too light for your engine.
And another possible cause is crankshaft seal, are kind of tricky, they may not leak while on standstill but spill when on motion.
Another scenerio can be your piston and rings, it may not smoke at the alarming rate but is gradually giving up.
Just proper diagnosis should help you sir

Blackbishop:


If no visible leakages and doesn't smoke

I will suggest to check the kind of oil you are using sir, if too light for your engine.
And another possible cause is crankshaft seal, are kind of tricky, they may not leak while on standstill but spill when on motion.
Another scenerio can be your piston and rings, it may not smoke at the alarming rate but is gradually giving up.
Just proper diagnosis should help you sir

Hmm... Thanks, I appreciate.

Hello please i just got a 2015 Lexus RX 350 tokunbo it had a slight hit on the bumper in the USA which was repaired here in Naija, the front parking sensors needs to be fixed as well as some other check lights showing up , where can i take this vehicle to to have it all fixed by a good engineer thanks

Good day
Please help with this.

Noticed this crack while mechanic was pouring engine oil some months ago.
What is the possible effect of this on the car and what could have caused it.
Bought the car a year ago as tokunbo from US.
Having being using hardex engine oil since I bought the car.
The car is a Toyota Camry 2003.
I can't say if this came with the car when I bought it.

is this not toyota corolla 2000 model

glambo:
Noticed this while mechanic was pouring engine oil sometimes ago.
What is the possible effect of this on the car and what could have caused it.
Bought the car a year ago as tokunbo from US.
Having being using hardex engine oil since I bought the car.

pufframmy:
is this not toyota corolla 2000 model

No it is Toyota carmy 2003

kryptochats:
Hello please i just got a 2015 Lexus RX 350 tokunbo it had a slight hit on the bumper in the USA which was repaired here in Naija, the front parking sensors needs to be fixed as well as some other check lights showing up , where can i take this vehicle to to have it all fixed by a good engineer thanks

Bring it down to my workshop sir

B-Automobile Nigeria Limited
08055347947

glambo:
Good day
Please help with this.

Noticed this crack while mechanic was pouring engine oil some months ago.
What is the possible effect of this on the car and what could have caused it.
Bought the car a year ago as tokunbo from US.
Having being using hardex engine oil since I bought the car.
The car is a Toyota Camry 2003.
I can't say if this came with the car when I bought it.

Thermal expansion is the tendency of matter to change its shape, area, and volume in response to a change in temperature. Temperature is a monotonic function of the average molecular kinetic energy of a substance. When a substance is heated, the kinetic energy of its molecules increases.

So I believe before your car got to you it has been in a very cold region where the crack first happened, so boss if you don't mind to know the full extent of the damage you can bring it over to open the top to access the damaged and removing the sump to check for metal shavings...

B-Automobile Nigeria Limited
08055347947

Blackbishop:



Thermal expansion is the tendency of matter to change its shape, area, and volume in response to a change in temperature. Temperature is a monotonic function of the average molecular kinetic energy of a substance. When a substance is heated, the kinetic energy of its molecules increases.

So I believe before your car got to you it has been in a very cold region where the crack first happened, so boss if you don't mind to know the full extent of the damage you can bring it over to open the top to access the damaged and removing the sump to check for metal shavings...

B-Automobile Nigeria Limited
08055347947

Thank you

How can I calculate fuel usage considering that toyota camry 2003 is expected to use 21/30 MPG (Miles per gallo) for city/highway drive.
Knowing that we use liters/kilometer in Nigeria

glambo:


Thank you

How can I calculate fuel usage considering that toyota camry 2003 is expected to use 21/30 MPG (Miles per gallo) for city/highway drive.
Knowing that we use liters/kilometer in Nigeria

Calculate with this
1 gallon is equivalent to 3.7 or approximately 4 litres
1 mile is equivalent to 1.609 kilometer

Blackbishop:


Calculate with this
1 gallon is equivalent to 3.7 or approximately 4 litres
1 mile is equivalent to 1.609 kilometer

Pls, if I may ask, what was your course of study in higher institution??

Billiebaba:

Pls, if I may ask, what was your course of study in higher institution??

Why sir?
Hope I never match line sir?

I was a Computer Science Graduate