₦airaland Forum

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Both Trojan and US Battery sell automatic battery watering kits - these are essentially 'set and forget' units that take the drudgery out battery fluid topup.

I would wager that their expectation/intention is that the end user purchases these kits at additional cost (not too pricey) and can then enjoy hassle free use.

I have used this with great success. You just hold to battery and press down It fills each battery correctly. Takes the hassle out of checking each battery


https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Battery-Water-Filler-Bottle/dp/B00NB808P0
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Battery-Water-Filler-Bottle/dp/B00NB808P0

bigrovar:
I will also like to recommend Luminous Indian Tubular batteries. Honestly Tubular batteries have one advantage over the US flooded batteries. They are designed for tropical environments i.e higher humidity and temperature and unreliable charge supply. They can take massive amount of abuse, rarely ever gets warm, and experience minimum water loss. The 2 powering my system have refused to die which I find bothersome. Oga pranil even confirm to me backstage that the lead plates are actually made in the USA. It seems they took the best of tubular technology usually found in single cell high capacity batteries and applied it to a 6 cell battery form factor. Trojan recently collaborated with sukam to make trojan batteries for the Indian Market while French company Schneider Electric snapped up Luminous all together. The level of RnD that has gone into the Indian tubular battery especially their use in an environment like Nigeria with unreliable power supply and hot weather..in addition to often overlooked practical features like electrolyte level indicator flooters are just some of the reason I highly rate the tubular batteries. A company like luminous gets my nod for their presence in Nigeria and wide reach across the country. This makes warranty issues much easier to resolve.

My luminous are going 4 years and should go atleats 2 years more . for past 12 months I have used them with Sukam in parallel for my 2x 5 KVA setup to run AC without any issues 70 % Of the life was spent being charged with ipower and Prag although Morninstar CC did equalization in first one year and later midpoint monitoring with BMV

earthrealm:
Ahhha the hybrids...its this issue of resistive loads..that people hv varying opinions.
Lemme research more

I have a different opinion. It may be cheaper and more efficient and definitely more reliable in the long run to directly run the PUMP from Panels ( DC models)

https://www.dayusolar.cn/product/4sp8-solar-dc-water-pump-for-8m3-h-flow-rate-with-max-head-220m/



or use a special pump inverter running from panels ( no battery) - AC models

https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/sp-series-3-phase/

https://www.grundfos.com/market-areas/water/solar-water-solutions/solar-water-solutions-systems.html

Malevonent:
i used this to check prior to purchase, http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
the site above confirmed that 16mm is ok.
installer recommended 35mm truout, i refused. i used 35mm for just inverter to battery, 25mm for cc to battery - all about 2.5m

hvnt really bothered to chk if it gets hots when charging, will do so and revert.

Unfortunately, that calculator is designed to give ratings at 30 DEG C which is not the case in Nigeria.
This website has many tools and links for a solar design ( both free and pro)

https://photovoltaic-software.com/free-online.php

earthrealm:
Bought it on amazon

did you try pressing zero button for 3 sec while keeping it away from any electrical field ( and jaws closed)

DC tong testers need zero calibration on every start

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga,

I have used 16mm cables for years for battery interconnects in 48v 200Ah systems with no trouble. The cables are always full gauge copper and typically inverter charge amps max out at 30a/40a.

Where i have solar added on, I typically use 35MM cable from CC to battery and battery interconnects especially in a large PV array that may gross 60a output.

I am convinced I am over designing in these cases but better safe than sorry and thicker cables can do no harm afterall.

With the MustPower type inverters, I have observed battery cables get warm from around 45a/50a as the charger output seems to have a lot of AC ripple or other noise in the signal (I have yet to verify this empirically). With a clean DC signal such as a charge controller may put out, the cables stay cool at the ~50a range.

16 mm2 is more than 0.1 V drop over one meter at 40 amps. also if you apply thermal derating 16 mm2 is 61 amps x0.71( 50 DEG) = 43 amp which is borderline.

also cables have to be sized for the inverter max capacity not charging current

Assuming you will be carrying 2 KW at 44 V( worst case scenario) at 0.9 efficiencies( 2000w/44v)/0.9=50 amps.

any higher loads and the cables become the weak point

over shorter distances, it makes a difference of a few thousand Naira - Why to take a risk?

Saipro:
You might want to upgrade to at least 35mm² cables for battery interconnects if they're 200AH or higher. The resistance (impedance) becomes nearly negligible at those gauge sizes. I generally don't use below 50mm² for ease of mind. I suggest you do the same

I agree
for four batteries the inverter is probably 5 KW for 5 KW at least 35 or better 50 mm2.

Can you detail the inverter.CC make model, please

My guess is the batteries are not getting correct voltage due to cable loss. Does the inverter CC have voltage compensation and direct voltage measurement otherwise the batteries may be getting undercharged? a regular undercharging will prevent them from absorb stage

A simple test will be to measure the voltage at battery terminals while under full charging current ( near the end of charging) and check with manufacturers spec.

If lower you need to raise charger ( inverter/CC) setpoint

Christgalaxy:
nice,bro try water mark the pics as the original owner.
is ur work and no one should tamper with it

They are welcome -
When they install your system ask them to copy the picture and quality of installation
or
just ask them to explain the components and then you will know if they really installed it - especially the two blue boxes in the centre and the grey box immediately next to it on left

They are not in Nigeria market

Hurray After a lot of elbow grease over Saturday Sunday we are half way through

anidat77:
4B1 N4 B1N4RY C0D3 UN4 DON 3N73R h3R3 S0....

Hello All, Can Anyone advice on a good, type, capacity, of petrol gen that can conveniently handle the inverter battery charging with my luminous 24V 1500kva (for the type of inverter see picture below) . I just realized my gen can't cope with the amps required. The low voltage warning light keeps blinking and it discontinues charging when I on the gen. You can hear the drain on the gen rpm to almost stalling as the inverter reconnects to its charging mode.
Thanks....

any gen with at least 1.5 to 2 times the rated capacity of the inverter will work. If you still find challenge add 100-200 watt of normal ( filament bulbs) to the gen load side and only try with inverter and bulbs

you can try that with your existing gen first before looking for new one

duwdu:
Thanks, and good eyes! (As we'd say on a lawn tennis court.)

Long story, TBH; but briefly, I simply funkify'd the travails, struggles, and symbol of a human race by including the letter "w" in a native parlance.

Sorry if my explanation causes more intrigue...

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P34c3
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C001 1D34 1 637 17 N0W

olopan:
i will sure love to give them a try but quite frankly, haven't done any remote system all myself but very familiar with linux commands and its queries .... but will be happy to be thought.

and
CC: pranil
i noticed that you have only just one Quattro which i believe is a single phase and that being able to handle a few things ...
plus if the generator is 20KVA then you can simply go using 2 more quattro and one as the master and other slave .... with a maybe a pheonix victron to be strictly for critical et cetera.


plus have worked with fronius 25/27 Eco series three phase and i will say that you have the system properly setup ..... well done.



PUBLIC NOTICE : I dey find jobs my ogas in the house abeg.

It will be 3 Phase 3 x 5KW Quattro that's why I mentioned if the victrons fail my house remains dark as the NEPA is connected to Ac1 and Gen on AC 2 - The victrons do the changeover ciritical loads on AC out1 and non critical on AC out 2 -
fromius will be coupled with MG50 setting to AC out1 ( also swicthed ttrhough contactor for extra safety and comes on only if NEPA is there or SOC below 95%)

the system will run as ESS with islanding by Ziehl which i rewired for 3 phase setup

to ditch the generator I will need minimum 9 pieces of 2,5 KWH BYD I have only 4 at the moment hence I mentioned gradual change

My plan to eventually have 12 units of 2.5 KWH which will allow me to get rid of 20 KVA but keep the 7.5 KVA for cloudy days

I have to try the 7.5 KVA and optimize the power assist and input current limits first . the 7.5 KVA is also 3 phase so really 2 KW per phase

There are many other small issues such as scheduled charging and discharging which will have to wait till venus firmware stabilizes

duwdu:
Hi, pranil;

I must say the ease and frequency at which you and others throw in useful resources on here - and also explain them - is both inspiring and helpful to yours truly.

Regards.

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P34c3
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Many thanks . I always wondered whats the story behind your nickname it is rather unique

[quote author=Mrpm post=69864940][/quote]If you see the logo that is the correct screen. The network issues may be due to raspberry Pi b3 +

see another user who was able to solve it by twisting arm and leg
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/victron-dev-venus/nZuRN96PJHQ/zSSpMrPCBAAJ;context-place=topic/victron-dev-venus/YAu2dENQ-wg

To acess venus you have to be another computer and point your browser to the Ip address of the venus. The VRM screen is available on remote PC and not the pi

https://www.victronenergy.com/live/venus-gx:start

see 2.2 onwards

Mrpm:
This thread has been quite inspiring. I’ve been on solar energy in the past 4 weeks until recently when grid was installed. My experience so far has been great. Except I’m having problems installing Venus OS on my Raspberry Pi 3 B+.

Images are below, and kindly point out if I’ve done something wrong.

You did not say what kind of problems?

Are you running the Venus image or separate packages?

is the multi /bluesolar updated to latest firmware? if not you will need a windows computer to do so

A great resource for raspberry pi troubleshooting is the developer moderated googlegroup of venus

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/victron-dev-venus

Update on the works

I spent last 3 weeks getting the loads in order

1. Added a a new DB to organize loads into critical and non cirtical - The VICTRON allows to drop non critical loads like AC , heating based on Grid condition or battery SOC
Also had to shift loads to match 3 phases equal which were unbalanced after my last 5 years of inverter configurations ( mostly critical on single phase) and non critical wired to seprate DB

2. Fronius is installed and waiting for the solar panel cables to swing into action
3. The gen room was partitioned and cleaned up of all old installation to start fresh - atleast 300 new components arriving from all over the world to make it happen ( right from switchgear to wiring accessories to control cables , inverters etc. )

will take at least 2 weeks to install and commission as I am travelling at the moment and will find time only during weekends

4. The Heaters of the house were replaced with a single new Ariston EVO Plus ECO - This heater will be getting it's feed water from my solar heater ( 120 L) and will heat to required temperature as necessary feeding the whole house making existing 4 heaters redundant

The interesting thing about the heater is it has two elements 1.5 KW and1 KW and switch on as required. Also the onboard computer uses fuzzy logic to decide when to heat water anticipating the needs based on history instead of keeping the water hot all the time.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga Pranil.

Victron 5kw x 3 to make 3 Phase Power + Additional Fronius 6kw in 3 Phase e.t c

What shall one say to these things? You are afterall both master and enthusiast all rolled into one

When are we going to get a review of your new system? (this one don pass upgrade o). It has to be done with full aplomb and fan fare.

And also are you planning to sell off the Axperts and DC generator you already have?

For your diesel gen, I thought you already had a small solar panel connected to top off the starter battery? I see no reason why you do not simply 'strike' the Gen - either leave it idle or just drain fuel out and set it up for long term storage! I do not see how you can have a blackout with all the PV capacity and multiple inverters and multiple redundant battery banks you have built up and it does seem running the Gen occasionally is more trouble for you than it is worth (surely the houseowner would have no objection to prepping the Gen up for long term storage?)

The DC generator will stay - I have converted the GEN to run on LPG using a converter KIT for those days when the tanker operators go on strike

Axperts already spoken for . one will be dashed to the installer whoi is helping me reconfigure panels into higher voltage strings and the other to office engineer who will start his first solar system

I am discarding the lead ACID to more softer duty ( BQ and tooffice engineer)-
Since I will be running whole house ( 15 KW steady state or 30 KW peak) the reasonable lead acid quantity required is 3000 AH ( at C10 for 300 amps . Anytging smaller the battries will die soon.

with Lithium coming down in price the upgrade from existing 10 KWH BYD to additional 20 KWH BYD is cheaper than trying to get even 2000 AH AGM

The victrons allow me to use ESS meanwhile fully maximing my 9.8 KW PV during the day while keeping battries small till the time I can upgrade
Duing night time when the NEPA fails the grid will be replaced by GEN till the loads drop to resonable level.( say 11 PM) then the house runs on battries alone .

I expect may be 1 or 2 hours of GEN in a day if the current stable NEPA continues

bigrovar:
I am yet to see a solar company as innovative has victron. For me they are up there when it comes to innovations.

I second that.

Apart from SMA, I have not come across a company so knowledgeable and helpful on different application scenarios and wide har4dware compatibility

There is no comparison to their open source approach in the RE business

I have put so much faith now in Victron that I pulled out my entire system and in the process upgrading to 5 KW Quattro x 3 phase setup .

The generator and NEPA will changeover through Victron so something goes wrong my house will be in darkness

I have also acquired a Fronius SYMO 6 KW and Victron 250/70 CC ( in addition to my 150/70 and 150/45) to handle the large loads during daytime


After consuming 87 litres in Last one year for my 20 KVA gen and spending more on starter batteries and chargers and maintenance for the gen than diesel saved I have decided the gen should be run regularly to keep things in balance till the time Lithium becomes really affordable and I can truly dispose the gen

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga Pranil,

I wanted to give an update on my DIY automatic transfer switch experiment - so I ended up sticking with the relay for those locations running security lights and making use of a contactor (LC1 D25008 - 4 Pole with 2NO/2NC) such as you recommended for those with inductive loads.

The principle of operation for these transfer switches is that inverter always powers the loads within a user defined window (set by a timer switch) attached to the NC contacts while Mains Power on the NO contacts will always override inverter output whenever available.

The contactors are able to tolerate low voltage (up to 185v AC) without any chatter and much to my surprise the transfer times are fast enough that the equipment (freezer compressor motor) does not seem to notice the changeover.

Apologies for the messy wiring and single color code as these are still experimental at the various locations and we just cobble things together with whatever parts happen to be available - once they satisfy proof of concept for 3 months I will set them up more professionally. Also, although I should know better, I switch only the live contacts and leave the neutrals common outside the circuit

I had asked before if there was a need to put in a circuit breaker between the inverter and Mains power sources to protect against a possible short circuit if the relay/contactor were to fail to disengage the NC and engage the NO contacts in an elegant manner or vice versa - what do you think please?

See pictures below...

Protection is always a good idea but it may be cheaper and easier for you to use a 13 Amp fuse plug ( 3 pin plug) to replace the bloack one you are using - I notice white one is already fused

DUNKA:
Please for a 50 litre 1500 watt water heater what is the ideal setting for a programmable timer since it will be on the solar only operation?

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Will the timer cutoff the heater? I would say 2 hours before bath time and off immediately after the last bath time.
It is very difficult to predict the water heater timings as they change based on ambient temp , User and stored water temp ( underground is cool. overhead tanks normally reach 30 + during bright sunny days)

bigrovar:
2 ways of disabling charging on the unit. Via the Battery type selector choose "not used" you can also do it via the charging current settings. Choose 0%. Those two options disables charging from the unit completely. (used the Victron battery monitor to verify that indeed charging was disabled when those options are selected)

If you are on a pre paid meter and you have sufficient solar pv. It is better to disable inverter charging to better utilise your solar and reduce electricity bills.

I used a sperate device to do this with my SUKAM

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Q4500W-solar-controller-with-intelligent-dual-power-transfer-function-24V-AC220V-240V-Free-shipping/32745597109.html

bigrovar:
@pranil

On the axpert inverters particularly the ipowerplus model. I finally figured out a way to log the inverter output/inputs without buying the $60 AICC software. It basically hs to do with probing the /dev/hidraw0 interface directly and formatting the output to json and uploading it to emoncms. The problem I am now having is the current shunt measurement seem to limited to power load above 100w. anything below 100w is recorded as 0 watt output and 0 system load. I see this even on the inverter display.. I need to be pulling about 120w before the inverter registers the output. This is a problem for me because my night load is often times below 80w (especially when the house goes to bed) and during that period inverter records 0 output.. defeating the whole essence of logging in the first place.

Do you experience this same issue with AICC? I am using the 3kva 24v model

I tried it but my PC ( desktop) takes higherr than 100 Watt so currentely very difficult to test unless I shudown many things ( NAS, Switches, HUBS etc)

but in general no inverter can report values accurately - Even normal measuring systems as per IEC standard are allowed to be inaccurate below 25% of the rated current . Only expensive stuff measures above 1 % normally all meters seen in residnetial office use are 5 % accuracy class

If you really need to monitor low load I would suggest following meter which can work on Modbus ( RS485)and then you can get very accurate readings . I use one with 3phases to monitor my house

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SDM120-C-5-45-A-230V-50HZ-60HZ-single-phase-two-wire-din-rail-energy-meter/32515975062.html

If no direct connection to PC is possible you will need modbus to ethernet ( or if using raspberry pi) a modbus adapter

http://www.metern.org/

https://info.kmtronic.com/raspberry-pi-modbus-energy-meter-1.html

mcTrinity:
wow... A lot have been said about the CB. nevertheless, I have a small observation with a small question...

It has been stated that most of these DC breakers are polarized and the polarity must be strictly adhered to. I've observed that sometimes a 2-pole DC breaker is used to break only the positive cable. What is been done is that the strand of the positive cable will be divided between the two poles of the 2-ploe breaker.

I've seen it on a Sukam/Mopower 5kva/48v Inverter. A 2-pole breaker was used for the Battery disconnect for only the positive cable. what I can't remember was whether the breaker was actually polarized.

so, is a right practice. as a matter of fact, I just installed the breaker in the attached pic where I did something like that. used it for INVERTER-BATTERY disconnect and also for the SCC-BATTERY disconnect on only the +ve cables with the strands divided...

"You're dead the day you stop learning"

The other pole should break negative and not positive of the array if you want to save money/space . basically Higher voltage + should be on positive and ve should be on negative


for Battery to inverter + of the battery to + of the breaker
for PV array + ve of solar to +ve of the breaker

Wazari:
Chief NextDayPP, if you know all about cables, breakers and "firings", then you do not need to pay attention to my explanations.

I have seen far too much false information being bandied around in Nigeria causing system failures and accidents. I know there are many people who have a bad opinion of solar because someone they know invested in solar and lost a lot of money.

It is definitely in our interest in this forum to correct misinformation as much as possible and in a civilized manner.

When it comes to electrical installation safety better be safe than sorry. Just because somebody has not seen a fire yet does not mean it did not happen.

All the standards and regulations are designed for that 1 % probability when something can go wrong and ensure safety.

maybe we do not see many incidences in Nigeria due to low penetration and lower capacities

Normally the risk is minimized, as switches are designed to fail safely. to become a fire hazard, there would need to be ignition while being switched off under load and the switch housing or cable would have to fail. Also Flammable material would also need to be close by.( wood !!)

S007:
It is clear you don't understand my message. This is not vain arguments. The reason why these rating of circuit breakers are put on inverters I do know. I have been in this field for close to three decades. Kiekie is not entirely wrong either.
My inverter did not come with one pre-installed. I have an inverter panel of same brand that came with one. These are two different things and you have to select the right panel for your application.
For your inverter, have you wondered why the manufacturer did not put 500A, 1000A or even 50A in there. Like you said, most Nigerians don't care about these things.
Many inverters do not come with an inverter-battery DC breaker as part of the setup. It is an important part of the jigsaw puzzle. If it is a DIY, one has to determine the right one to put there.
Putting the right one there means avoiding nuisance and unnecessary trips. It also means the CB will do it's job when required.
I can tell you many people depends on threads like these for education and to make the right decision. Putting the right message there goes a long way in helping others.

The DC breakers have two different tripping points ( magnetic - for short circuit ) and Thermal for overload - Without complicating things the breaker can have different curves ( B,C,D ) for the same rated current and the correct one should be chosen to avoid nuisance tripping . The rated current marked on breaker is In ( nominal) which it can continuously carry

For those interested can go through the attached document but short summary is in the picture . https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6eOIBrQmTfLYXJfaTZhejRSbnc/view?usp=sharing

When it comes to electrical safety I would rather be more cautious than going for a higher value because it just might trip

The best protection in DC circuits is not the 440 AC fusebox normally seen in Nigeria but[b] CLASS T fuse followed by Circuit breaker[/b] which ensures minimal let through energy by it's fast action - https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5502-225-400/dp/B076GTZ6PY

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5pcs-A3T250-CLASS-T-Ferraz-Shawmut-French-Roland-fuse-250A300V-brand-new/32839022494.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.2e2e4c4dU1TYtt&orderId=502844851612310&productId=32812689338

https://zerohomebills.com/product/enwitec-battery-safety-breaker-slim-250-75v-250a/

kiekie1:
Namesake free that matter abeg ..Makavele is a practical man not theory .. Most pure sinewave 5kva inverters which isn't upto 4kw power use factory fitted 200a DCB .. Cyberpower is a good example! Bluegate 2kva uses 100a dcb etc .. That power starlight 5kw inverter you see in pics is a major load bearer with high surge capability and it won't make much sense using 125a small DCB for its DC cables as 250a will very much trip on practical wrong polarity mistakes and also carry basic,heavy loads needed as a 5kw or 6kw does without DCB tripping or overheating ! Cheer's

since we are on DC breaker please ensure polarity is correct.( unless the breaker is non polarized) the attached document is very clear for the D.i>Y installer.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W44FlBLvVdz6lTJ0nfHZLzFLVQlIguox/view?usp=sharing

makavele:
The only wire I can see with my "novice" eyes coming out the opposite direction is the inverter negative cable . . .
please clarify more and i,ll see if it is fix-worthy
are you talking bout the blue and yellow wires (battery to bus bar cables)
i doubt so. once again clarify, until then, peace out

The wires to the CC breaker and CC are at an odd angle. The wires should come out at least 1 -2 inch and then bent in a hook shape not immediately after existing the MCB

makavele:
And the final look . . .

Replaced the sockets with 20A switches for input and output disconnect; the 3rd one up is for the automatic water pressure booster.

Congratulations lot of hard work has gone in it .

The installation looks to me similar to Salvador Dali's painting. Beautiful but not following the standards
All wires are existing at an odd angle from the machines.
the first rule of electrical wiring is the wires exist straight out of the box and then bent away on the insulation portion preferable after strain relief.
When you open a normal 13 amp plug you will see that the space inside is left for wire to come out and bend and then clamped together on insulation before it exists the plug to avoid failure
This is to avoid straining the connector and the wire near it's weakest point ( as it is stripped for the connection)

this guide (especially point 5 and 6 ) will be useful for the D.i.y. installers - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WqDrBT0sB5MrhoB0Joev8wTeCunOYs6F/view?usp=sharing

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have been attempting to DIY an automatic transfer switch and testing the device in three locations - two out of three are working good but the third location suffers from chronic low mains voltage (relay coil rated 220v sees 172v to 180v from PHCN) and this causes 'chattering' and ultimately the relay burns out.

I have attached a rough schematic and actual picture below - you will see from the schematic that I shorted signal/coil (live from PHCN) to Common on the source side and shorted NC to NO on the load side since I am using two separate power sources (Mains from PHCN has priority and inverter with timer attached for fixed hours of run time if no mains) to power one load.

I became concerned how the switch/relay chattered and failed when subjected to low voltage far below the coil rating and I am thinking of a way to handle this fault condition gracefully - the only thing I could come up with is a circuit breaker on the mains side closer to the relay even though the live wire feed from PHCN is already protected at the distribution board same for the inverter output.

Suggestions and ideas on how to make this work safely are welcome - the schematic only shows the live wires being switched and then common neutral being done outside the switch for simplicity.

it is rather simple. Buy a 12 V coil relay and ded the coil through aAC /DC power supply ( you can find one easily ) popularly known as battery eliminator

I do this for all my control circuits as it makes them safe to handle. also the 12 V control parts are cheaper and easier to find on both continents ( US , UK )

alternatively, use this which has batter contact rating for mains then the omron one you are using as it is nor rated to pen inductive loads

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CJX2-CJX2-0910-LC1-ac-contactor-24V-AC-9A-50HZ-60HZ-orginal-lc1-0910-24v-free/856880658.html

every contractor has duty cycle and for load changeover you need 7-A or 7 B duty cycle to ensure long life

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utilization_categories

duwdu:
Also at source (I think) : https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/pip-gk-series/

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The aliexpress is an official store for retail ( small order business) The inverter is made probably made in China but assembly and shipping is from Taiwan for Africa and from Germany for Europe.

kiekie1:
Schneider 250v DC breakers now available in 10a to 63a specs for your PV combiner box/array integration ! Call us now if interested

Contact,
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951

if you want more products to stock pls. check following which might come up in demand as the PV voltages and overall sizes go up

I have not found these in the Nigerian market and had to import them when needed

http://uk.farnell.com/eaton/dmm-125-4-i5-p-b/switch-disconnector-4pole-690vac/dp/2455608

http://files.sma.de/dl/26599/Sicherungssteckverb-TI-en-11.pdf

https://www.leadergroup-cn.com/product/solar-panel-mc4-connectors-with-10x38-in-line-fuse-holder

http://www.cnsandi.cn/sdp/911164/4/pd-4607850/11787512-2535588/Professional_Solar_Energy_PV_Combiner_Box_Solar_Ju.html

Saipro:
I want to DIY a Victron MK3 to USB cable. Or at least attempt to do so. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I suggest you buy one as the time spent will be far disproportionate to the gains

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Whitepaper-Data-communication-with-Victron-Energy-products_EN.pdf

check the white paper - https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/whitepapers