₦airaland Forum

Saipro:
I apologise for going off topic but I need to solve two problems and need the most efficient way to do it. My personal workaround is largely inefficient. This is the first issue:
I recently acquired a dual-band NetGear router for large homes. It accepts LAN input. I have a MiFi and a Wireless Modem but both have limited coveragein and around the building.

What I want:
A 3G/4G device which accepts a SIM and has LAN output yet won't break the bank.

You can use your netgear router only as wireless acess point to boost coverage from existing mifi - which model do you have ?

https://kb.netgear.com/20927/How-do-I-change-my-NETGEAR-router-to-AP-mode-after-I-ve-already-run-setup
The second issue:
I need a WiFi extender which can plug into the LAN sockets of my Midnite Classics. I recall having read from one or two people here using them (dapsyra comes to mind). I want to use whatever it is you've used which works.

https:///wireless-tv-network-adapter-for-wifi-range-extender-3738753 - cheapest I found . will also need a wall plug for 5 V DC ( any of the old mobile chargers) or use dedicated Battery to 5 V converters from Aliexpress

[quote author=lexi28 post=67291501][/quote]YES . the wiring was somewhere in earlier posts by me - it is wired similar to changover.

Be carefull though the contractor does not have tripping characteristics so the downstream must be protected by another fuse assuming upsteram with ELCB . or just create separate box

what exactly you want to do

fogechi:
which type of solar panel is the best. I see alot of panels on this planet

best for what ? desert , urban use, near seashore , near airport ? for on Grid / for Offgrid ?

chidi360:
Am newbie

i have total watthour of 65550wh

divide the wh by 4 to get watts of the panel required for Nigeria on a good day so at least 16.5 KW panels assuming efficiency loss etc at 20 % at least 20 KWp so for 300 watts per panel you need say 66 panels which itself is 4 million approximately


Now remember almost all energy is generated from 9 am to 4 pm ( in 7 hours ) so you need a battery system which can absorb the 10kwh per hour which is 10kwh/50volts = 200 amp . that is atleast 2000 AH 48 V battery bank for flooded or 750 AH for AGM

Plus atleast 4-5 charge controllers of 80 amps


using 3kva 48v inverter system

how many panels do i need assuming i am using 300w PV module?

what connection arrangement can i use?

what size of charger controller do i need?

thank you all

ivide the wh by 4 to get watts of the panel required for Nigeria on a good day so at least 16.5 KW panels assuming efficiency loss etc at 20 % at least 20 KWp so for 300 watts per panel you need say 66 panels which itself is 4 million approximately


Now remember almost all energy is generated from 9 am to 4 pm ( in 7 hours ) so you need a battery system which can absorb the 10kwh per hour which is 10kwh/50volts = 200 amp . that is atleast 2000 AH 48 V battery bank for flooded or 750 AH for AGM

Plus atleast 4-5 charge controllers of 80 amps each ( 200 to 300 K NGN each)

it is easier and cheaper to load shed or change the appliances to energy efficient unless you are running a factory or business which justifies the price premium

sinistrian:
I used to overclock computer CPU's so i know how important the fan is In fact i have already ordered a 48V dc fan from aliexpress so I can connect the terminals directly to my busbars. The MorningStar heatsink temperature is currently 51°C, when it's doing the most work.

_{But man I still can't believe the output I am seeing: 69Ah generated and it's not even 12 noon yet ...}

Gentelmen - A humbel request
Is it possible to start quoting WH or KWH numbers - The Ah are difficult to digest without context ( battery bank , panels configuration etc)

e.g 250 watt panel on 12 V batttery is max 20 Ah(per hour) on battery side so Battery Ah will be very high in contract to 250 watt on 48 V battery ( 5 Ah ( per hour max)

on Panel side Ah if the 3 no.s of 250 watt panels are in sries they will yeild approx 8 Ah max per hour
the same 3 no of of panels in partallel will Yeild appox 24 Ah ( per hour)


Wh removes all the confusion as it remains same irrespective of battery or panel configuartion with minor effect on battery side due to CC effciency

A better no to quaote is KWH/KWp which is neutral to system configuration of amount of installed panels

duwdu:
Can anyone please chip in user-experience with this RA12-200D AGM battery listed by Datacommexpress, please?

The quote seems awesome to ignore...

http://www.datacommexpress.com/khxc/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=RA12-200D

Thanks.

........
P34c3
.....
...

from the Logo Seems to be Ritar - RA12-200D AGM - http://www.ritarpower.com/upimg/2015121116432284.pdf

at swiftmall it is at normal price (130 K) - http://www.swiftermall.com/inverter-batteries/1035-ritar-200ah-12v-agm-deep-cycle-battery.html

may be old stock ?

efuro:
10 out of 45 PVs is alarming. You must have gotten a premium CC to have handled the hasle of such failure within the strings. I know from my Diy experience that where you have 1 or two of such burnt out PV in a string and across parallel, you are bound to have current drop and your CC will be in a perpetual state of struggle to do it's job.
Yes you often register no current as you rightly observed. It is gradually becoming a common experience nowadays with cheap PVs abound in Nigerian market space where our 'SON' is dead.

This is my experience. other diy enthusiastic on the forum can add their rich experiences too

Not only Nigeria. Internationally professional grid connected operators are complaining about low-quality panels dying prematurely

https://www.pv-magazine.com/2016/09/09/when-bypass-diodes-overheat_100026057/

foonshur:
.

It can be bad quality, lightning strike or somehow reverse voltage applied across panels ( bad connection , BAD MPPT) but only a few of them have failed I guess it may be due to lightning. Do you have a surge protector installed?
Also, is the panel getting partially shaded during midafternoon for some reason?

quote" The use of diodes is as bypass diodes which are placed around every 12 to 24 series connected cells. When a single cell is shaded by an object it becomes reverse biased by all the other cells in the series that are still under illumination. This creates a higher voltage reverse bias across the shaded cells. The shunt defect resistance sites on the cell can now have a much higher voltage across them then the 0.5 to 0.6 volts across the cell in the forward illumination current situation. For 24 series cells every bypass diode the reverse bias voltage is limited by the bypass diode to about 10-13 vdc. Without the bypass diodes the reverse bias can be higher and the result is 'hot spots' at the defect shunt resistance sites that may damage the cell or even create a possible fire hazard within the panel.

A secondary benefit of bypass diodes is to reduce the overall voltage loss due to a shaded section of a panel.

They can be replaced easily - Hopefully available in Nigeria otherwise aliexpress - https://starsolar.aliexpress.com/store/group/Diodes-Fuse/911465_507233122.html

earthrealm:
so how is the cooling effect in gen mode??....lemme know if i will run it 24/7 on gen mode. does it still go as low as 20deg and high fan speed on gen mode?..trying to understand how it saves/uses less energy
.24deg may only be effective for me at night, during the day 23/22 wud be preferred

The energy is saved by the variable speed compressor and higher efficiency gas and condensers. Normal Ac runs in ON off mode while inverter AC only draws power required to reach the cooling temp. This video from LG explains it better than word
An additional benefit of inverter AC's is they can cool faster in jet /power mode as the compressor can go into overdrive

Also, they are able to maintain exact setpoint . for my bedroom when I set 26 it is at 26 +- 0.1


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0ueIUEojI0


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-YtYp2RJ-k

Wazari:
Hi Pranil,

I find it incredible that you have been able to achieve an LCOE of N45 - N50. I have not seen anyone in Nigeria do lower than N80/kwh for a residential solar PV system with storage.

I looked at your old spreadsheet but it looks like you only accounted for the direct and associated costs of the battery, not the complete system. Am I mistaken? Please, I'm very interested in your figures to see how you arrived at N50.

Yes, I was considering only battery the rest of the system is assumed to be same ( as I was just retrofitting an old system) but in lithium,case you can get away with smaller PV due to higher efficiency.

Also, other companies might give lower LCOE but I did not consider them as I had no access to purchase or manufacturer support to integrate with Victron


Please have a look at TESVOLT site where they back up 0.09 Euro ( 9 cents ) with a commercial guarantee
https://www.tesvolt.com/en/lcos.html

makavele:
Let me chip in from behind the curtains..

I guess he mean't to say 100ah lithium is equivalent to 200ah lead-acid . .
Because while you can only take LA batts as far as 50% to stay in shape; you can take Li batts down to 0%.
But what he failed to understand is that it is cheaper . . buying 300ah LA batts vs 100ah Li batts . .
For now,the expensive price and little practical facts does not do justice to dumping the traditional lead batts.
The "exaggerated" 50,000 to 100,000 cycles for now is merely hypothesis arrived at with extrapolated data
The true test would be using them for 10 years and see how the hold up . .practically I mean

My earlier long post on the issue was swallowed by the Nairaland gremlin and I got banned for 24 hours I wonder why?

But in general, comparing lithium on installed price is not correct . for that matter any energy producing device is not priced at purchase price but on LCOE ( Levelized cost of electricity ) essentially price per kWh ( for detail understanding with Nigeria context)

1. True cost of LCOE .pdf
2. what is LCOE ( BNEV)


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2i8lq9fo7mqh3dx/AAB39JNif_f-0FUZ68q4jz23a?dl=0

in my own case, the LCOE of BYD came to 50 NGN/KWH while trojan 12 V came to 55 and trojan 2V came to 45 NGN/KWH

This was including the cost of additional bms, shipping, customs stec. - I posted a simplified excel sheet with zero discounting a while back for those who are interested.

for me, there were two very big incentives - the convenience of not having to babysit the battery ( my other setup has flooded lead acid) and superfast charging ( since I also use the Diesel generator to charge on extended grid failures in the night )


What is also to be factored is the reduction of required PV panels - Due to fast charging and higher efficiency and absence of periodic equalization you can get away with 20 to 30 % smaller array for the same KWH of usable capacity

please refer to attached pdf ( lead-acid batt efficiency)


quote " - zero SOC to 84% SOC the average overall battery charging efficiency is 91%, and that the incremental battery charging efficiency from 79%to 84% is only 55%. This is particularly significant in PV systems where the designer expects the batteries normally operate at SOC above 80%"


finally, the choice of technology depends on the usage pattern but in general, Lithium makes sense currently in the application of peak reduction or timeshift of energy use . as a pure storage lead-acid will be the king for a quite a while till alternate technologies catch up

p.s interesting side note to the debate - On Sunday I noticed that small generators ( 2.5 kw to 7 KW) sold by Games in Jabi, Abuja have been fitted with lithium batteries as starter battery instead of standard SMF battery - There cannot be a worse application in hot temperatures than a generator starter battery

GeorgeD1:
barezzi,
this is getting quite interesting, isn't it? if 300ah for lead-acid equals 100ah for lithium it then
means we have to ultimately change the way we calculate our power fundamentals, i.e p=iv.
unfortunately i'm yet to see any documentation in support of this. i'd be happy if you could give
any references. at least that would be a good starting point.

Please have a look at this bluenova doc . While I do not fully agree to numbers they make some pretty strong points . -http://bluenova.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/BlueNova-Launch-Presentation-V2.pdf

Adjust Lead-Acid Ah rating for Depth of Discharge (LA= 50% and LiFePO4=100% )
2. Adjust Lead-Acid Ah rating for Discharge Efficiency (25% more losses than LiFeYPO4)
3. Adjust Lead Acid Ah rating for Adjust for Terminal Voltage (5% lower)
Ah (LiFeYPO4) = Ah (LA) x 50% x 75% x 95% = 36%
Sizing a LiFeYPO4 battery = 100 Ah lead acid = 50 Ah (50%) 37.5 Ah (80%) 35.6 Ah (95%)

abunafiu2:
And in future only few who have access to premium products are the only ones who will enjoy RE.
if an average income earner in Nigeria manages to save some hundreds of thousand naira, he should at least enjoy it for what its worth and not paying through the nose and at the end there is no justification.
Most of the sellers here on this forum are doing their best because forum members are better guided when it comes to making choice.
What of other Nigerians who have never heard of nairaland or even take their time to do research. Majority of those who have had bitter experience with going SOLAR belong to the category of those who aren't lucky to belong here or have access to information.
On facebook, you come across several adverts and you ask yourself how is it going to work?.
A member here who joined late few years ago contacted me on how to resolve issues with his set up. it was discovered that there was poor matching of components in the installation and this was done by a BIG NAME in the industry.



Something needs to be done urgently, otherwise as Oga GeorgeD1 said, it's gonna kill faster than Ebola.

Suppliers like Canadian solar ( and Gennex with them) are setting a good path by arranging training for the industry players

NAPTIN also has launched courses focused on Solar which is bound to grow
So I believe knowledge will grow in the industry day by day but the products are where the problem lies.

What is needed in my opinion is net metering to be legally acknowledged along with grid code for off-grid installation by NERC for systems above 5 KWp

As the best practices and components get used more the top-down effect will overtime sanitize industry.
There will always be some bad apples like in all industries

DBlackCeazer:
much thanks, can you recommend a decent inverter on a budget, and do you think using those rectifiers with an inverter charging system onn is a good idea?

I have tried the charger rectifier route ( not even to charge but only act as DCV source from the DG ) trying to run 8 KVA inverters from 5 KVA DG
The experience has not been good. I have 3 different charges sitting on my self. The main issue comes with is the coordination of current requirements during the absorb stage. The voltage shoots up drastically during absorb and then drops as one of the charger switches to float.

The best solution I use currently is a DC generator which switches off below 10 % current ( current based switch off)

If you are interested I can give you the 48 V DC chargers at a concessionary rate
/www.aliexpress.com/item/48V-20A-High-frequency-lead-acid-battery-charger-Negative-Pulse-Desulfation-battery-charger/1232768315.html

This carries built-in desulfator also

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7786307566.html

Meanwell is a reputed brand in UK and USA but the charger setting requires basic knowledge of electronics ( POTs and resistors) as the current control and charger start has to be wired in a scheme

DBlackCeazer:
much thanks, can you recommend a decent inverter on a budget, and do you think using those rectifiers with an inverter charging system onn is a good idea?

I have tried the charger rectifier route ( not even to charge but only act as DCV source from the DG ) trying to run 8 KVA inverters from 5 KVA DG
The experience has not been good. I have 3 different chagres sitting on my self. The main issue comes with is the coordination of current requirements during the absorb stage. The voltage shoots up drastically during absorb and then drops as one of the charger switches to float.

The best solution i use currently is a DC generator which switches off below 10 % current ( current based switch off)

If you are interested I can give you the 48 V DC chargers at a concessionary rate
/www.aliexpress.com/item/48V-20A-High-frequency-lead-acid-battery-charger-Negative-Pulse-Desulfation-battery-charger/1232768315.html

This carries built in desulfator also

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7786307566.html

Meanwell is a reputed brand in UK and USA but the charger stting requires basic knowladge of elctronics ( POTs and resistors) as the current control and charger start has to be wired in a scheme

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga Pranil, many thanks to your recommendations, I finally pulled the trigger and swapped out my 1hp bedroom AC for a 1hp LG Inverter AC and boy did I make power savings? My net AH removed overnight using the inverter AC in Gen Mode has dropped from 230Ah to about 150Ah - at a reference average voltage of about 50v this is a ~4kwh daily savings.

With the old AC I would reduce target temperature to about 24°C to 25°C and sometimes even use a timer to manage power consumption - with the inverter AC, I set a 16°C target and activate Gen Mode and I'm good to go - if I wake up middle of the night, it is cold enough that I have to set the room temperature warmer so that I and the Madam do not freeze to death

The inverter AC cools a bit different than the traditional AC - one may not get that frosty chill but it is more than cool/cold enough to sleep very comfortably in.

If this performance keeps up, this would be the best purchase decision I made in the month of April 2018.

Congrats - You will Enjoy it. One suggestion though - Run the AC in 25 /26 DEG setpoint in normal mode till you go to sleep and then put on GEN mode. setting the target temp lower actually makes the AC work harder drawing excess power and in case of thermals the heat loss/transfer is directly proportional to the temp difference between two objects - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer_coefficient

By telling the AC the desired temperature as 18 you are actually running at the same rate possible when setting at 26 but with the 18 DEG reaching the required temperature the compressor keeps on working hard to reach the 18 DEG.

In conventional AC's the compressor was cycled between ON and off based on time and some intelligent logic thus setting 18 made the compressor run more of the time so everybody got into the habit of setting it lower to cool faster

with InverterAC"s the compressor changes the speed and thus heat transfer ( cooling power) based on the actual temp at the inlet and the set temperature. Once reaching the desired temp it slows down the speed reducing the power consumption.

The GEN mode restricts the faster speed even if the temp difference is Large ( thus allowing the power saving) or in case of smaller inverters /generators the peak load.

The biggest savings come from the variable speed of the compressor with the additional advantage of not having the inverter deal with surge starting of the compressor motor every few minutes and operating at a better power factor than an inductive motor


IN my case I am using 4 AC's with 20 KWH batteries so If I have to deal with an overnight power cut I run the AC's in turbo mode with GEN ON for 1 hour and then change them to power save for the night. It remains pleasant enough and I get a better sleep knowing I dont have to get up in the middle of the night because of inverter beeping due to low battery

In the Long run it will also help sealing the windows with foam and in addition I use this product funder the door to prevent the heat loss https://www.amazon.com/Excluder-Self-adhesive-Stripping-Soundproofing-Insulation/ and an intelligent controller to manage the temp settings dynamically ambiclimate -https://www.amazon.com/Ambi-Climate-AI-powered-conditioner-controller/dp/B076BCPJP4

I have managed a clever but simple trick The ambiclimate is set to Power teh AC at 6 PM but the power to ambiclimate comes from non inverter socket so AMBI swicthes on the AC at 6 PM only if NEPA is present otherwise it is off . While sleeping I change it to Inverter socket so It keeps the temp constant e.g. if it is already below 24 DEG OUTSIDE it will swicth offf the AC mode.

earthrealm:
holy moly,24 units 2v 1000ah, wow that must have cost a fortune..whats the cot per unit?
what is the charging current of the must power?...the 6kva is 40 amps, this i inadequate to charge properly a 48v 1000ah bank, following the C/10 rule, you may get away with this if you dont depelete the bank below 605 dod, or you have solar charging input, as the bank needs to see >100 amp charging current periodically, to avoid sulphation. such battery banks are best fitted with the german/usa inverters, that output >120amps charging current easily...eg the 4kw magnum or schenider is capable of this easily

I fully Agree - Victron 8KVA with110 Amp charging will match nicely - https:///victron-energy-quattro-inverter-and-charger-48-8000-110-8kva-3562246

life707:
@pranil, thanks a million.

I will contact the numbers on the calendar to find out.


Cheers

Please let the house know if the supplier product range and prices.

If you get the opportunity also check the price of 8KVA SOL_ARK Hybrid inverter. somebody was just now looking for High power inverter - the EMP capability looks impressive

https://www.sol-ark.com/8k-product-page/

life707:
Good evening everyone,

I want to enquire if anyone has contacts of suppliers of the green innovation (GI solar)
DC air conditioner in Nigeria?

Maybe this one - I have no idea if they stock it. The calendar came with some item I ordered on Konga

Oshomo12:
I love this option, I also checked out the inverter, are u using the 12 or 24v version (l know that u have a 48v system). The output voltage is 120v, is that right or do u ve d 220v type?

NO EU version 230 V 50 HZ runs on 48 V since I do not want to unbalance my battery bank.

By next month I will have another 350 VA for sale with Bluetooth Dongle as I will be moving the lighting to Lithium based main system ( it was feeding my security lights and camera

Pharyn:
Good day.
Anybody with experience with these kind of frame less Modules?

No personal experience but I have an expert called BIPV ( building integrated PV) in my Abudhabi office who has used that brand extensively in may projects and has no complaints. You can also order the glass in a different colour for large projects to match building aesthetics

Pay attention to mounting though mounting is different than normal as the joints have to be waterproof

Oshomo12:
Pranil mentioned the AVS30 but it seems to only work with a range of 'acceptable' voltages - it doesn't step up/down and will just cut off if dirty power comes in. Would a 5kva relay-stabilizer (non-servo because i'm cutting costs and also because I don't mind the +/- 10% variation in output voltage) be appropriate to put in between mains power and a 3kva inverter proper?

You need a stab after the mains, i.e. Ur inverter connects to a stab.
Otherwise, garbage in, garbage out!

Never do that . Your inverter is feeding the additional power consumed by stabilizer ( at 10 % lossess between 30 to 200 watt on fill load) . doesnot server any purpose

three alternatives


1. Stab before inverter ( again losses but acceptable as they are on NEPA/Gen)
2. Get a better inverter most of the good brands do it not necessary only high end PRAG,Ipower,sukam, luminous to name a few that I am aware off
with BAd voltages they cut the input and run on inverter mode
3. run two inverters ( one inverter charger large capacity for power-hungry loads with AVS 30 behind to cut really bad voltages and surges) with additional small inverter only model to power sensitive loads. Losses are high but this ensures a really clean supply like a gaint UPS

I run a 500 VA phoenix ( victron inverter on my 20 KWH bank fed by power ( to charge through neap and solar) the Pheonix power my computers and AV system essentially isolating them from NEPA , surges, bad voltages and allows me to tinker with main inverters while keeping essential stuff on

Out of curiosity, I asked Victron if their charge controller will survive without battery - Interestingly there is no issue even if the breaker trips

I believe Morningstar and EPEVER are known for failures any other which come with the warning not to switch on without battery

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Lithium indeed is the way and the future, it just remains for the price point to get to a range where ordinary people can afford it as well as simplify all the complexities of BMS and LVD e.t.c

in fact for stationary storage applications, it is well accepted fact that future belongs to flow batteries. The lithiums currently cannot exceed 1kW to 4 KWH ratio making them pretty costly for low power demand longer duration applications. While flow batteries have limitless energy storage capacity depending on storage volume available - mainly due to the fact that the fundamental difference between conventional batteries and flow cells is that energy is stored as the electrode material in conventional batteries but as the electrolyte in flow cells.

Questions is will flow batteries development quickly catch up OR LITHIUM remains the king due to EV applications and recycling for the next decade

https://cleantechnica.com/2015/06/21/flow-battery-vs-tesla-battery-smackdown-looming/

https://www.energy-storage.news/news/flood-of-announcements-from-flow-battery-makers

https://redflow.com/
http://www.vanadiumcorp.com/investors/vanadium-batteries/comparison

http://www.uetechnologies.com/

http://www.vionxenergy.com/products/

chris81964:
I took delivery of two Tesla Smart Lithium Ion batteries. Watch the Unboxing video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tuwhLRqsNg

Congratulations - Welcome to the club.

Which inverter are you planning to use with it. I am curious about the BMS compatibility.

Also when commissioned please post the numbers of allowed charge and discharge current limits reported by BMS at temperatures above 30 deg c

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Oga Pranil.

Please can you shed light on how this would work? Routing power from AVS30 to a power contactor such that the AVS only allows voltage within the preset range while the contactor handles AC loads over 30amps.

Just today I was with a client who got 400v AC through one of his A&E 10kva Servo Stabs - burnt the transformer and board plus he switched it to bypass and blew his Sukam inverter board as well.

I was telling him how an AVS 30like device could help prevent high voltage from frying the Servo Stab in the first place but the 30Amps rating on the AVS was a limiting factor since the Servo was rated 10kva.

see attached. Hopefully clear. You can choose whatever contactor size you need or even bank of contactors since AVS30 can drive a concator coil easily

I have a similar scheme for my house but with a different relay

Same can be done with Aliexpress components ( under/over voltage relay + surge arrestors) more cheaply but like you said will take 4-5 weeks to get them

have you looked on Konga - there is a readymade box for upto 100 AMP - https:///100amps-heavy-duty-surge-protector-3587583

earthrealm:
am wondering, based on the high cost of a 15kva stabilizer, can one use this device, combo surge protector+under and over volatge circuit breaker?. power is stable in place of interest, usually have good voltage 190 - 220v, need it incase phcn goes crazyand brings this their 370v as they did in my home once, but my wall mount A&E stopped thhe nonsense from coming in

2ndly do we have similar high wattage/amperage device in country/.. dont hv the luxury of the aliexpress 3 to 5wks waiting period

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40A-220V-adjustable-automatic-reconnect-over-voltage-and-under-voltage-protection-device-relay-with-Voltmeter-voltage/32814028566.html?traffic_analysisId=recommend_2088_5_90158_iswistore&scm=1007.13339.90158.0&pvid=9788357b-dfe7-4995-b0d0-a5920519459f&tpp=1

The one shown does not have surge protection. you can always wire the output of AVS 30 to a power contactor of your choice and route the power through the contractor. This way you will retain the surge suppression capabilities but get the desired power rating

cool318:
Good evening great people,
have been an ardent silent follower of this thread and i need your professional analysis on this project.

I want to construct a Solar Powered (8X8) matrix Led or Higher LED Light bulbs.
The lamp poles will be two in number.
How many panels, the size of the panel(s), What size of battery will be ideal cos i want a single battery like 100amps
to power the two lamps?

Thanks for coming to the rescue
@ niyiomoiyunade, davodyguy, kiekie, pranil

what is the wattage, how many hours it will be on, can you dim the LED at a fixed interval or blank to reduce power consumption.

pranil:
See The attached. Combiner Box- Local market - DC MCB - From Seller on Forum, VPD ( surge protect) from Aliexpress. total cost 20 % of Midnight solar - I have midnight solar PV Junction box also and while much easier to work and can combine three ( even 6 or 12 models available) banks this setup also works without issues for 150 V DC unearthed system . If your CC or inverter needs negative eratherd then Midnight solar is recommended ( remember to use use 25 mm2 or larger cables to link the MCBS's to avoid local heating or use a Cu busbar cut into shape .

check my earlier post on the cheapest surge arrestor combiner possible

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Well ...... there should not .....

But I think if you are paranoid, or want to go overboard with your protections....

Please let me defer to core power experts like Oga Pranil to talk about this one please - whether or not one still needs an SPD given sufficient earthing/grounding in place.

Both are required
Grounding and surge arrestors serve two different purposes while the first is mandatory and involves human life the surge protection is for equipment and used based on the value of equipment protected

Grounding keeps the person safe [/b]by limiting the rise in potential and equipment will see during a lightning strike. It also protects you when the equipment fails due to malfunction or insulation failure from getting a shock while touching the equipment. They also assist in protection operation such as earth leakage detection or restricted earth fault relays

[b]Surge protection limits the voltage rise seen by the equipment during a lightning strike thus limiting the chance of failure. Please note that surges in normal AC installation can also come from various other reasons such as standing waves, switching of capacitors, autoreclosers, SCR switching so it is advised for costly inverters both AC and DC surge protection is installed

Not to derate MSNPD ( I have several installed without issue) but for smaller installations,( 24 V , 2 KVA etc I would advocate the use of the Chinese version No need to protect a 100K Installation with 67 K surge arrestor

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SPD-DC-600V-20KA-40KA-House-Surge-Protector-Protective-Low-voltage-Arrester-Device/32366452184.html

and Also recently I have come across a Schindler Multi9 available now in the local market which I have installed a month back without any issues ( much easier to install due to din rail)

https:///schneider-electric-surge-arrestor-3274663

do not go by the picture on Konga the actual product looks like this

https://www.schneider-electric.com/en/product-range/61710-acti-9-iprd-dc-pv/