₦airaland Forum

tonididdy:
Hi friends thanks so much for your mentions. I really appreciate. I took your advice and studied the first page to know exactly the wattage of panel I would need for my setup.

This is the calculation I came up with according to page 1(i maybe wrong though, forgive my ignorance but I willing to learn and take corrections).

According to page 1,to know the panel or batt3 needed, one needs to know the sum total watts of all appliances expected to be used and hours expected to be used, multiply by 1.2 (this is if we assume to get at least 85% efficency considering no setup is 100%) and then divide that by the number of hours of sunlight got a day... The total is the required wattage of panel needed.

Using this guide, I calculated thus:
TV 60watts X 10hrs usage (5pm to 2am)
Dstv 30w X 10hrs
Fan 30w X 20hrs

Equals 600+300+600
Total 1500wh

1500wh X 1.2 equals 1800wh
To know the panel needed
We divide 1800 by 7hrs (this is the sun uptime, if the sun is best at 10am to 4pm)

1800wh/7= 257w.

This means I need a 257w panels to supply energy at my given time and my setup has 300w panels.

BUT in all of this, why don't I get full charge after 7hrs of sunlight? Does this mean my panels may not be giving 300w supply to the batteries?

your system will likely fail if you use 7hrs to calculate as the sun is never at its peak for seven hours, I personally use 4 hrs of sunlight for my calculations.

tonididdy:
ok this?

I can have a batt3 reading on the CC of 12.9v as at 5pm...because immediately usage kicks in, the reading drops immediately to mostly 12.9v and by morning, I will have 12.1, 12.2 and the batt3 bar would have dropped to 2bars.

It's never emptied overnight before.

from the little I deduce, your system is running very well. dod is around 50-40%, so why do you want to add more panels?.Check you cc manual for the max current.

[quote author=tonididdy post=85775937][/quote]there are limitations to what you can do as you likely have just one tubular battery which shows your system is clearly a 12v system. Why do you want to add more panels? What is the capacity of your battery in AH? Your cc is rated at what amp?
What is your inverter amp rating too.let get this details so the ogas can advice.

Buyers beware, many of the panels,cc and batteries in the market is fake. Alaba boys at it again. They change stickers.e.tc. the quality of solar materials are now so substsndard.
Buyers;Be warned

[quote author=ceaser post=85479231][/quote]wow nice one.

olopan:
If I may.
Connect two of them in series i.e. the positive to the negative of the other
and you do the same for the next two then,
you connect the two positive ends together and the negatives
using a pair of two way MC4 connectors.
And you finish the setup using your existing cables before.
Cheers

I have done that. 2s2p setup. The problem is that the panels arent enough for the 24v inverter.i appears to be drawing much energy on idle state.my battery ends up being depleted. Thanks

Felicity panels in stock o
260w-28k
325w-39k

ceaser:
I actually have one that I have retired. Very good product like that. Used for a year. 12v "BTS" PSW with AC charger with 20% 50% selectable DoD. But it's 750kva so I'm not too sure if it will handle your load. I believe the highest KVA with 12v in that product line up is 1.2kva. Higher KVA come at 24v nominal. It was bought off of Konga. I'll see if I can retrieve the link.

thanks for your response. I have a 1.45kva 24v DSP inverter I bought off an aboki. i tried using it with the fridge,it could not take the surge,but alas this morning,I changed the fuse gauges and it works, but my PV array appears too low for the inverter. hence I just stuck to 12v then.l'll be adding two 300w to my setup then. thanks. but how best can I connect 4 150w/12v to get a 24v output

ceaser:
Olendave has given a likely consumption of your device.

But the other way to be absolutely sure about your device is to have a wattmeter handy. Use it to determine the consumption of this fridge.

Subsequently when you wanna purchase any AC appliance, go to the merchant armed with the meter and have it plugged into the appliance when it's being tested. You can then relay your findings to guys here to help decide before your buy.

hello ceaser, pls help out with recomending a 12v pure sine wave hybrid inverter with adjustable dod that can power a 150w fridge. Thanks

hello house, being a while. need some inputs on this.
I currently have a system that works well for me.
2pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel.
40a pwm cc, 1000w modified 12v inverter and a 600w pv (150x4) in parallel.
inverter runtime is from 7am to 9:30 pm daily with average load of 80w. from 9:30pm to 7am, I run dc loads of about 80w load.
am able to achieve. above 50% dod with this setup. I am now upgrading as I need am adding a 80w AKIA fridge to the setup. the fridge will run during peak sunlight around 11am to 3am.
I would still love working with a 12v inverter because of my Dc loads.
whats your take on the required upgrade.@ceaser,topmost,kiekie,..niyi....ojesky....etal

Reprobate:
abeg, who has transacted with this menuel guy successfully before?
dude dropps outta the sky, with decent prices, somewhat better than what the old regular sellers have been offering.
ayam wondering, if this guy is legit

More better offers will roll in soon. Prices of panels have dropped down in recent times. You know what i mean if you know your way around alaba.

Evening my ogas. I need a little analysis of a system that can take load of about 2.5kva for at least 6hrs.

In my opinion. I am looking at a 24v/3.5kva inverter,4pcs of 200ah, tubular batteries, 6pcs of 250w/24v of pv, 80A pwm. Pls i need you guys input as per best models, and any tweak on the system to work well. The system will be grid tied. Fairly stable electricity.Earthrealm, niyiol..., kiekie.ojeysky,ceaser etal..

Topmost11:
I have a method I drew up for this: I will install a changeover switch between cc and wires separately to both batteries so I can decide which one to charge; it will not be simultaneous, either 200ah or 100ah at any one time.

thumbs up. nice one

Topmost11:
I have a method I drew up for this: I will install a changeover switch between cc and wires separately to both batteries so I can decide which one to charge; it will not be simultaneous, either 200ah or 100ah at any one time.

thumbs up. good one there..

Topmost11:
House what is the implication of replacing a 4.5ah battery with 7ah or 9ah aside longer run time? I have replaced the follow come battery of my new fan with 7ah battery. One of the reasons I opted for the fan make/model is the 12v battery rather than the 6v models.

One other thing, battery gurus and general house. Must a battery be always upside up or I can place it sideways. I ask because if I place the battery sideways, it will enter the battery slot/compartment of the fan and I will be able to replace the cover. See attached pictures.

Pix1 will ensure battery enters the slot and cover replaced but it will stand sideways and not upright. Pix2 is upright but battery will sit outside the battery slot.

Another question.
My bad 5yearold 100ah battery has been idle for months now. Before I stopped using it, it serves during sun hours but lasts 1.5hours after sundown. If I replace the follow come fan battery with it, what is the effect?
I am looking at two options
1: charge it with solar via cc once in maybe 5 days or as need arises.
2: allow fan to charge it during sun hours when inverter is on as the need arises.

Problem I envisage is with option 2. It means I shall be drawing from inverter to charge it thus my main 200ah battery will suffer it as it may not charge fully since the inverter will be pull load to charge the 100ah battery by way of the fan. Hence my resolve to charge only during sun hour. Pls attack the proposal and give suggestions for improvement . Thanks

I would not recommend the above for client installation except diy. and as you mentioned, dry season is a factor. but you might still be able to draw conclusions on your peak current on a really sunny day around 12:30pm to 1:30pm, you get peak current and can factor that in your calculations.

As per your rechargeable fan. lead- acid batteries are called that name because they contain h2so4 electrolyte which is a liquid.so conventionally upside down or sideways is never encouraged. if you change the follow come battery of your fan with the higher ah but same volt(12), not problem should ensue as you will only have to charge for a longer time.

for charging your almost dead battery alongside your working OK batteries, you would eventually kill your new batteries as the older one will try to drop them down to its level. you know solar power is like a sinusoidal wave atimes. I even doubt that your current system charges your batteries effectively. but except you will use a separate PV array and cc for old battery, you should be OK with that.

!

Topmost11:
You mean 6?

yes 6 that's a typo

[quote author=Topmost11 post=84916360]House, for argument /education case. What happens if I exceed the max panel input of the cc? [/quot

for a 150w PV

power = 18v x 8.33A
= 150w panel
ideal situation will give the above. ideal situations exists majorly in the lab. on average I hardly get 5A on each panel
hence I have just p= 18Vx 5A = 90w hence 6 panels will give me 520w total..

this is just my approx figures, panel orientation, wiring size and length of wire from the panel to cc are all important

Topmost11:
House, for argument /education case. What happens if I exceed the max panel input of the cc?

like said earlier, 4 150w should harvest 8x4=32A at peak. but mine never does, just little above 20A at most at peak sunlight.hence I am getting 5A per PV considering distance from PV to my cc. hence adding 2 more panels should work in my case. so with 8 150 panels, i would have little above 30 amps at peak sun array. just saying.

Topmost11:
As you rightly said, we have similar set up. With 600watts panels, your cc should be 60a and not 40a. You can only add one more panel to it.

well I concur. those are values for under ideal situations

from my little personal experience, a 150w PV says it will give 18v and 8A charge. but in real situations, it doesnt. this are max values. the sun is not always max now.my 600w panel should give abt 32A max. but the highest I have seen is 22A but it has constant voltage value of about 16-18v which is OK. so my drift is if max current should be 32A, just work with 16amp on average or a little lower for your calculations. if you intend running an off-grid system, you will have to go high on panels while considering the rate of charge of battery C10/C5, and how much load your panels can take while also being able to reach full charge by sundown.
Also note that a cc rated 40A should take 40A conveniently and slightly above, 40-45A. but I fear this chinko cc's sha o.

hmm

Topmost11:
I just checked and did the calculations. Highest has been 143ah on 8/12/19 and lowest 81ah on 12/12/19. Today is 86ah. Thanks for calling my attention to this. I need to look at the panels for dirt. Total harvest is 1025 in 10 days. But it seems my son did a reset on 7/12/19 or 8/12/19 cos 9/12/19 has no record, but I am not too sure.


The readings were taken from the pwm CC display.

House, I have a question.
Does the cc record havest irrespective of load on it or load affects the reading. My thoughts is that harvest record should not be affected by load as the cc records what passed through it and not what use the yield is put to. If 100ah passes through it and 50ah load is being drawn on the go, battery will suffer it by getting only the 50ah balance. Am I correct?
I ask because from the calculations I did, I noticed drops in yield these few days. But if load affects harvest, then I understand the drop. RCCG is having convention and TV is suffering it.

l use the exact pwm cc u have. from what I see, it records just PV Ah input only. I have 4 12v/150w panel in parallel. I use my system for 24hrs. I mean inverter for 13hrs for charging business and run off Dc loads through the night. my 2 100ah in parallel never drops below 50%dod. my harvest has not been impressive though. I get a least above 50ah on less sunny days and abt 150Ah on very sunny days. Ideally, that for me is too low. I would be adding at least two more panels asap.

I need a fairly used 12v/150 watts panel. watsapp o7o3448863o

I just Sidon dey look as people full Westminster, chai we will know where gbpusd will eventually head to by nightfall laslas

alphaNomega:
I guess we were done for the week. I was expecting a move to 1.2967 but the bulls don't have the strength in them.

Try not to leave any position open over the weekend. Next week will be interesting

Hmm 1.2967 !!! I guess market will close farther than that even, maybe 1.2980, this brexit positivity is too much. Lets see what happens tomorrow.

People are yet to boot. Use vap !!!

earthrealm:
your plan is doomed from the start, make effort to read previous pages, this issue has been discussed a thousand times.

max load u shud put on a 12v 200ah battery is c/20 wch is 10amps which is equal to 120w, since u hv 2 of them, then its 240w...u may not do serious harm to the bank if u intermittently draw x2 of this say 480w for short periods ie c/10, but anything higher than this...spells premature death for the battery.

google well, to gain more knowledge about what you are about to enter into

This is one of the major things people fail to get right in solar. If you overload and over charge your batteries especially with a poo cc, na Oyo you dey. Earthrealm, you are on point.

ceaser:
Good one. But if you will have to run power socket points on DC, especially from room to room, the drop in DC voltage that occur over long distances will preclude that. You will also require thick gauge wires for those long distance connections if DC appliances that it will handle are more than ordinary DC lights, eg A 30watts led TV some 15 meters away from the power source will require some thick gauge wires, same for an 80 watts refrigerator.

You will also need to ensure the voltage of your DC power thru the wires is higher than the nominal voltage of your appliances and then use a DC-DC buck to get the desired voltage at the point of termination to each outlet.

For instance, what I do is have btw 16v-24v running from to the charging ports around the house and then USB wall sockets (12v-24v input range) buck convert to 5v output. Light supplies of 16-24v get supplied to CC-CV buck packs that supply 12v to light bulbs for other appliances (cctvs, alarm systems, sprinklers etc).

DC, though desirable for efficiency is not as good as AC for very long distances.

I hail thee. You quite grounded on this. Well I have already put all you said into consideration. I have learned so much in practice. 9 months counting and its working perfectly for me. I am looking to increasing my battery capacity and solar panels. DC wiring has made live wonderful for me. I just wasn't ready to spend so much on inverter, battery etal. The DC journey has been rewarding so far.

Donsco:
You are right.
And thus is why I have been reading through this tread as I the link.
Have gained good knowledge here.
Thumbs up guys.

The truth is that the solar concept is still new. Most installers are poo. The solar technology is an ungoing one. You need to constantly update your knowledge and have a thorough fundamental of physics.

I would like to propose an optimized use for solar installations especially for personal home use. This idea is not entirely new, and most solar packages offer these solutions in some ways. Its all about going the DC way. That's the same reason mtn solar gives 2 DC light, Azuri gives about 4 plus a dc tv. Using dc appliances improves solar power efficiency incredibly. Hence there is no need for lots of power adapters we all have around the house as these adapters greatly decrease the battery and inverter efficiencies.
Hence to get optimum use of battery life, my advice is to run purely on DC gadgets as they are becoming quite popular in the market currently. Your bulbs, security lights, TV, fan, even refrigerator can run all on DC.
I am currently off-grid and run all my lights, fan,tv, phone charging on DC.

@eleojo23, reading from page 1? Well I'll see about that. Never knew this thread existed. Well kudos to you all.