ThatErha's Posts
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mayor2013:Bros, you obviously didn't read through. CV joints (Infact, entire drive shaft) changed long ago, problem persisted. Sometime later, noise heard while at speeding down highway (not city driving). Bearing fault suspected. UPDATE On proper inspection (for bearing noise), found out the rear right bearing was the culprit. (not front right as previously thought.) Rear right hub replaced, noise gone. PS: Sorry, no pictures as promised but there are many videos for this on YouTube. So for vibration issue, I may have to go with greenhulk and get engine mount inspected. |
Months later, tackling the CV joints did not solve the problem. Grease on axle was the uncleaned leftover during previous installation not long ago. Real culprit is the right wheel bearing. Has now become noisy. Easy to identify now cos roaring noise increases as speed increases. Hope this helps somebody. Will probably solve this DIY |
"We are foreign ......." LOL � � What an excuse |
What a G.R.A!!!... |
Gender equality But, Linda stole N380 million when others took N31 million. What a man can do, a woman can do better. |
.. |
Captainking, how far? |
Nice one guys. Interesting thread . |
opomulero:@sultaan This is an example of what I was talking about trying to avoid. |
Plenty story. No pictures. |
sultaan:Yeah, thanks bro. Just trying to make it easier for people to reply. After a busy day at work, man may be to tired to press calculator. ![]() 1 gallon = 3.785411784 litres precisely. Here in Lag, most filling stations sell for N143 - N145 per litre. Also, I guess our bad roads, traffic and petrol quality would adversely affect our fuel consumption in Naija. |
captainking:@ captainking, Sorry this is late but I managed to get some figures. City driving with 2k fuel..... 58 miles without AC. (approx. 15.696 mpg) 44 miles with AC on. (approx. 12.363 mpg) Seems poor compared to the factory rating, but I guess this na Naija readings. ![]() How many miles do you get with yours? Any other EOD user on this thread? Please let us know your approximate fuel consumption too. Thanks as you do. UPDATE These low readings were due to a vacuum leak which I wasn't aware of then. MPG is close to spec now (for almost 2 years now). |
And when he wrote "the end" in small letters, I thought that was the end of the car, not the end of the story. ![]() |
AutoElectNG:Certainly. Are you in Lagos? |
So, till now, certificates are still unavailable abi? Guy, run like Usain Bolt while your eye is still clear. Before its too late. |
Bump. Ready for the lucky buyer. |
Still available. |
obekediamondfuto:Chief, please what do you mean? I don't get. |
Wait, NO fence?? |
Thanks flecho. Done that briefly before. But I followed your advice and gave it a thorough look. Tierods and ball joints seem fine. No sign of crack, damage or free play. Next, outer CV joint. This was fine too. No damage to the rubber boot and no grease leak. Axle from outer CV joint to center weight was clean and dry. Next, inner CV joint. Yeah, this is the culprit. I couldn't see any obvious damage or tear on its rubber boot, but I saw signs of grease leak all over the axle, from the inner CV joint to the center weight. Will need to get that replaced. Thanks guys. |
Still available. Tyres are intact. Papers are intact. Call for inspection. |
GAZZUZZ:Yeah. Would love to get those LED lights. |
Still available |
Still available |
MrMcJay:My advice change your mechanic. Get a professional who knows what he is doing. Don't use China parts, especially Chinese mechanical parts. |
HyundaiMechco: ![]() Thanks But what are the likely causes please ? |
Bump |
contactwale:Bro, I'm not a mech. But it's general knowledge that all modern cars have an onboard computer (ECU) which throws out codes ( and a check engine light) whenever a fault is detected. This comes long before any final breakdown. These codes remain until they are read and erased via an auto-diagnostic device (scanner). Ignoring those warning codes only spells disaster. Most road side mechanics (Kazeems) don't have and can't use this device. They work by trial and error and worsen issues most times. That's why I said it would be difficult now, (maybe not impossible) The only way anyone can help you on this platform is by first knowing what the initial symptoms were before the final breakdown and before any mechanic touched the vehicle. Any strange sounds? Dashboard fault lights? Abnormal behaviour from the vehicle? Leakages? High fuel consumption? Smoking? Etc. Also do some online research. Google should be your lover right now. Then, be ready to pay a professional well for a professional job. Cc. Gazzuzz Hope this helps. |
contactwale:Before your Rav4 stopped, did you ever observe The check Engine Light on at any time? If so, did you do a scan? If yes, what were the codes displayed? If your answer is NO to above questions, then troubleshooting may be difficult at this point (though, not impossible). Still do a scan, and get codes first. Secondly, " Kazeems " don put hand. |
GAZZUZZ:Thanks boss. tolugar:My brother, I don't want to get anywhere near that situation. To me, this little observation is a big warning sign. So, I have since parked the car. Not driving it until I am armed with enough knowledge to get it fixed. And not by Kazeems. Prevention is always best. |
Only while accelerating, I do feel some vibration from the front right side of my 2005 EOD. I have listened carefully, there is no noise; but I feel the vibration from pedal area (not from steering). Checked online. Suggestions are to check inner or outer CV joints. Someone here suggested it's probably drive axle or brake disc. Another suggests it's from shaft. Mechanic says it's either engine rear seats or from transmission (saying mine does not use shaft). He said to change engine seats first. Gurus in the house, please advise. cc. thebigkendo, mayor2013, gazzuzz, luvinhubby, kingreign, sooperrescue, and all profs. All protocols observed. ![]() |
dcole73:My issue. luvinhubby:Good morning luvinhubby. Please what would the new drive axle cost? |


