₦airaland Forum

Louiscars:
Avoid the v6, firstly they have bad reviews and my first hand experience on that vehicle was an engine knock without any prior signs according to who was driving, as for the turbo 4 cylinders in not really a fan of Hyundai engines, they are very fragile and very expensive when things go south. the engine when we procured it was about 2.6m ( quite outrageous) I included a picture for reference

Thanks for your response. However, the picture you’ve shown is different model from the one I’m talking about. I think this is the 3rd generation which started from 2013.

Hello guys, can anyone tell me about Hyundai Santa Fe 2012 model. I want to get a car for my dad and I am seriously considering the car since the price of a Toyota these days is crazy. 2010 Toyota Highlander is being quoted for 16-19m by most vendors so I am just looking for a cheaper alternative. The Hyundai Santa Fe looks appealing to me and fits well with my budget. I’m buying it tokunbo. So any information about the car regarding reliability, durability and service cost will be appreciated. Thanks.

Hello guys, can anyone tell me about Hyundai Santa Fe 2012 model. I want to get a car for my dad and I am seriously considering the car since the price of a Toyota these days is crazy. 2010 Toyota Highlander is being quoted for 16-19m by most vendors so I am just looking for a cheaper alternative. The Hyundai Santa Fe looks appealing to me and fits well with my budget. I’m buying it tokunbo. So any information about the car regarding reliability, durability and service cost will be appreciated. Thanks.

But the issue isn’t that the battery floats. It doesn’t charge to the maximum capacity and it has been depreciating further on a daily. A month ago, it charged up to 82% and has been reducing and as at today, it stops charging at 58%. So it’s not floating, it’s reducing.

Dam5reey1:
LFP batteries should not Float.. you are using some default battery profile settings. Most installers dont change anything.

First Change the Setting 05 to USE..

Set your CV to 57.6V and FLV to 57.6V

Report back your findings

Could the problem be a BMS issue or the battery cells are dying? If it’s settings issue, it wasn’t like this after the connection initially. It just started abruptly or maybe I wasn’t observing it from the beginning coz the bars were always complete.

HeavenlyBang:
Yeah, that's not good. 53.4v isn't anywhere 100% SoC.

Probably a balancing issue?

Thanks for your response bro. But I honestly do not have the facility to do what you’ve asked. I’m not a professional technician, just a consumer. But the voltage according to the inverter is usually around 53.4V when charging cuts off.

Jefferyzz:
What voltage is that 58%
If the battery is charged to the point it disables charging. Connect an AC watt meter to ur inverter output and see if u can pull anything close to 13kw b4 ur battery goes off. While draining ur battery, make sure both solar and AC charger are off. Let's see the result.

Hello guys, please I made this post about a month ago and I didn’t get much engagement as to what could be the issue… I have been observing the batter for the last one month and it has gotten worse. Now the battery doesn’t charge above 58% as at yesterday. I have called the technician and he doesn’t seem to know what is wrong either. I have only used the battery for less than 2 months now and I don’t know what the issue could be… Please anyone who can explain to me. I’m thinking that it’s probably an error from the factory and the technician has informed them about returning it.

Tucode:
Hello guys… I got an SMS Gold 15kwh lithium battery in mid December and it’s connected to a 10kwh sms hybrid inverter with 20 550w solar panels. I have been using the system without any issues for a month plus until last week when I noticed that it does not charge beyond the 5th bar (the battery had 6 bars). About 5 days ago, it charges up to 85% before it stops charging, 2 days ago it charged up to 82 before stopping, yesterday it stopped charging at 77% despite the fact there was still peak sunlight around 1.30pm. I observed that once the battery gets to the 5th bar, the PV immediately drops to like 200w from like 3500w just like it does when the battery is already fully charged. What could be the cause of this? Are the battery cells being damaged or what? Please I need help with this. It’s been frustrating for me because there’s been peak sunlight where I am and my battery will just stop charging around 1pm.

Hello guys… I got an SMS Gold 15kwh lithium battery in mid December and it’s connected to a 10kwh sms hybrid inverter with 20 550w solar panels. I have been using the system without any issues for a month plus until last week when I noticed that it does not charge beyond the 5th bar (the battery had 6 bars). About 5 days ago, it charges up to 85% before it stops charging, 2 days ago it charged up to 82 before stopping, yesterday it stopped charging at 77% despite the fact there was still peak sunlight around 1.30pm. I observed that once the battery gets to the 5th bar, the PV immediately drops to like 200w from like 3500w just like it does when the battery is already fully charged. What could be the cause of this? Are the battery cells being damaged or what? Please I need help with this. It’s been frustrating for me because there’s been peak sunlight where I am and my battery will just stop charging around 1pm.

Hello guys, my 15kwh felicity lithium battery is charging slowly. The first guy that did the connection, did a wrong connection and got my 10kva inverter burnt. I got another inverter (SMS 10.2KW Hybrid inverter) and the new installer corrected the previous connection. But I noticed that the battery now charges slowly despite having high PV from the panels. I’m getting 3.200Watts from the panels but the charging current is 13Amps. I used to see up to 80Amps from similar PV in the previous connection and the battery will be fully charged before 3pm during peak sunlight. But now, even with this scorching sun and without using the battery at all, I barely get 2 bars full by end of day. There’s obviously something wrong with this current connection and the guy is telling me that the BMS in the battery might be bad. I am finding it difficult to believe that. Please any idea what could be wrong? From the little I have read and understand, charging current (amps) also determines how fast a battery charges and I’m see low amperage since this connection.

brightk:
wat exactly damaged d previous one? So we can recommend something better

Okay. The system was installed in first week of August this year. By first week of September, the charge controller had gotten bad. The charge controller would not read (the watts and amps will be showing 0.00) but the battery will be charging. It’s a 15kwh Felicity lithium battery. The charge controller is also felicity. So the installer took the charge controller to the company to repair. He brought it back 3 weeks later. After 5 days, the charge the issue resurfaced. The controller won’t read anything but the battery will charge (although it charges slower than it normally does with the controller ). We kept using the system like that while waiting for the installer to return the charge controller. Then two Sundays ago, we got back from church and smelled something burning, we went to check and it was the inverter (10kva felicity non hybrid inverter). The installer came to remove everything and took it back to the company and they said the inverter was burnt. I have never loaded beyond 28% on the inverter since we got it. That’s what happened. I don’t know how manage it happened.

Hello guys, good evening. Can anyone tell me about SMS hybrid inverter in terms of durability and performance? I am planning to get a 10.2kva sms transformerless hybrid inverter to replace my older inverter that got damaged. Also, I heard that transformer based inverters are better than transformerless inverters. Also, is there any need for me to add another mppt charge controller to an hybrid inverter that already has a 160A mppt controller? The installer was telling me that I should still get a separate charge controller for it… Please Nairaland inverter profs, I need your urgent response.

Finally, apart from Felicity brand, which other inverter brands are reliable and durable and affordable? Thank you.

The battery wasn't fully charged as at the time i took the numbers, in fact, it wasn't even half charged.

btee13:
Once battery is fully charged and u are not utilizing much from ur system, the MPPT would limit what it is receiving for the PV, To know what ur PVs performance are like turn on more load gradually (6Kw) at peak solar time like 12-2pm . Do that if all tins are okay u would definitely have raise in power from CC.

The panels are connected to the mppt charge controller and not the inverter. I have checked the generation around that time and the highest was around 800W at the same time my other system was generating around 2400W. It's frustrating.

Peterlove11:
Is that a charge controller or is that the interface of your inverter displaying battery voltage, pv generation?. Be certain if your panels are connected to your inverter or a standalone Charge controller. Then check for the peak generation around 12pm to 2pm with a clear sky. Incase your batteries are full, put a brief load of about 4kw and see if you get close to 4kw or more instantaneous yield. If not, then you need your installer to run a check on your system.

Good evening, a JJC here. I just installed a new system which has a 15kwh Felicity lithium battery, 10kva Felicity inverter, 120amps Felicity MPPT charge controller with 12 550watts Canadian Cells Solar panels (the engineer connected them in 3 series of 4 panels). However, the PV numbers I am getting doesn't add up (maximum of 700-800 at peak sunlight) and i can confirm this because it takes an average of 3-4 bright days (without using the system at all) to fully charge the battery. I have an old system with 12 300 watts panels and more than 2kw PV at peak sunlight from that one. I have called the engineer and explained this to him but he hasnt said anything meaningful. Please, are these numbers normal all theres obviously something wrong with his connection? Below is a screenshot of the MPPT readings around past 4pm on a bright sunny day.

Peterlove11:
Compare this, the first pix is high voc mppt inverter, the lower one is low voc mppt inverter. Same panels, the low voc mppt inverter was upgraded to the newer high voc inverter. Under similar conditions, the newer one generate more solar power, runs cooler and more efficient. The newer one has its own disadvantage, but as regards solar generation it's better than the low voc inverter

Please house, I already have 4 tubular batteries in my set up, I was thinking of doing a separate system with a lithium battery and probably use my current set up during the day since we have less load during the day. But I want to find out first if it's possible for me to merge my tubular batteries with the lithium battery in one system, to save me cost and all.

Please I don't understand this comment, is this too high or too low or fair?

kristien4:
500k for labour...Na so

Thanks for your response. However, will getting a 7.5KW hybrid inverter with the dual MPPT work for the quoted load above?

Dam5reey1:
Fair Deal, why not suggest if he 10.2KW/11KW Hybrid inverter with Dual MPPT. It selling around 1.3M Range.
Something Like this, so you don't have to buy extra Controller as well as reduce cost on cabling.
MPPT 450V 150A;
WIFI+parallel function+BMS
AC Output Power:11KW
Battery Input Voltage:48V
PV Input Voltage Range:90-450VDC
Controller:150A MPPT
MAX.PV Input Power:5500W*2
MAX.PV Input Current:18A*2

But I would recommend you allow your installer decide and buy all the accessories, you are paying for the service so you dont need to stress yourself, sourcing materials no be small Job!

Hello guys, I'm about doing a solar system in my house in Benin and below is the quotation given to me by the installer. Are these prices fair. Somebody also suggested that I get the materials myself especially the inverter and the lithium battery. If so, how can I get these from the factory directly? Also between Felicity and Yohako, which should I go for since there's over 200k difference in the estimates for both.

I was also thinking about going for a 7.5KVA inverter set up for the load I'm planning to use in the house to reduce cost. 1 2hp inverter standing AC, 1 1HP inverter AC, 6 fans at 50W each, 3 TVs at 100W each, 1 inverter fridge of 200W, 2 inverter freezers of 100W each, bulbs, washing machine of 350W and lighting points. Of course, I'm not going to run all the appliances at the same time. But from what I calculate, all of these are just about 5000W in total. Is there need to go for a 10KVA or will the 7.5KVA be more than sufficient?

Hello guys… Please how much diesel does a diesel generator consume. I was thinking of getting a 6kva Kemage diesel generator soundproof but I need to know about the consumption, if it’s comparable to petrol generator in terms of cost. Please I need response from experts in the house.

jceesquare:
Yes they do.
Buy all season tyres from major brands with rib tread pattern as they transfer lesser road noise unlike the ones with block patterns.

Oh okay. I did not know this. I lost one of the tires that came with the car in a minor accident, so I got one tokunbo Good Year tire ( that’s the brand that came with it) to replace it. I only just noticed now that the tokunbo tire is All Seasons tire while the others are regular ones and both have different thread patterns. Could this be the reason for the noise generally?

jceesquare:
The fact that you drove another car through same road and didn't hear anything does not mean there's something wrong with your car.
The tyres, and noise insulations on the other car may not be the same with yours.

Do the kind of tires contribute to road noise? I mean can you get a much quieter ride if you use a specific kind of tires? If so, what kind of tires in Nigeria would that be?

jceesquare:
There you go

Yeah fixed it. Finally, I notice humming sound from the suspension which I suspect is the wheel bearings but the thing is I only hear this sound when I’m driving at a particular road. When I get on the main express, I hardly hear it. I have driven another car through that road and I don’t hear that noise. Now I’m confused. The road is a newly tarred road.

jceesquare:
Just have it at the back of your mind that it would almost impossible to get manufacturers mpg here in Nigeria.
Check your fuel trim readings with a scan tool and post figures here.

Of course. I know that. But more than 50% difference, something is definitely wrong. Anyways, the check engine light eventually came up and it says the Mass Air Flow sensor is the problem. Code came up with P0420 Catalytic converter again. I don't know why.

jceesquare:
What's your long term fuel trims like?

I’m getting around 5km per liter. The car is rated 10km per liter City driving.

jceesquare:
Any check light or code?

No. No check engine light no codes

Hello Honda people. I’m just being curious here. I know thermostat and radiator fans are supposed to work intermittently but from my observation from my previous cars, the coming on and shutting off of the fans and thermostat usually takes sometime in between. But I notice with this my new Honda Accord, that the intervals are very short. I’m taking about every minute or two minutes or so, especially when the AC is turned on. I initially thought that maybe there was something wrong with the AC system but I took it to my AC man and he said there’s no issue. He said it’s the way the thermostat of the car works by design. Since I have no other person that uses Honda for me to ask, I decided to come here and ask you guys if this is correct. The AC cools perfectly (apart from a weird low whistling sound when the AC is very cool) and the car doesn’t overheat or anything.


Secondly, I notice that the exhaust sounds like something that is clogged, like it’s not breathing freely. When I touch the inside of the exhaust pipes, I notice dry black smoke inside. When I just got the car, there was a check engine light and we scanned it and found a P034 code stating that the catalytic converter bank 1 efficiency low. The dealer told me that the cat in the car is not the OEM one and that might be the cause. So I got the OEM from Honda Josh, we installed it and the CEL went off. But I still notice that the car consumes too much fuel and the exhaust sound is not normal with the black dry soot in the tailpipe. Please what could possibly be the issue? The car is a 2016 Honda Accord.

Macmilla:
Omo! I don't know o. They say we should just buy from know suppliers like Hondajosh here on nairaland. But our use of Honda cars can not depend on just one person on an online platform. It doesn't make sense at all. The oil full konga with price ranging from 4k to 15k for the 1litre, but you don't know what you are ordering. It's just frustrating.

It's Honda Josh I got from... So I'm guessing there's a good chance that they're the original oil...?

Macmilla:
Same goes for Honda DW-1 ATF. You can't tell if what you are buying is original.

Omo. So which is the safest bet that one can easily tell which is original?

A colleague of mine bought a 2006 Toyota Camry Tokunbo. It was shipped from the US. 7 weeks later, the engine knocked. He sold it and got a 2010 Camry, in the 2yrs he has been with the car, he has changed gearbox twice on the car. Now he just got a Lexus. I have another friend who owns a 2007 Camry that burns oil like crazy. No matter what he does or what oil he uses, the car burns oil. He has also changed his gearbox as well. Two of my friends own Toyota corollas (bought tokunbo), both of them have changed their gearboxes. Personally, I own a Toyota Camry 2011 and fortunately, I have not had issues with my engine or gearbox. The only repairs and changes I have made are on the suspension, shock absorbers, bearings, shafts, etc as a result of our roads. I also have friends that have owned Hondas and other brands for years without any major repairs other than suspension issues. My reason for this long talk is that assuming those Toyotas that gave my friends problems were actually Hondas or other brands, everyone would have been blaming them for buying those brands instead of a Toyota. My point here is that, “you can also go wrong with a Toyota”. Toyotas are reliable for sure, but their reliability is easily seen because everyone owns a Toyota. It is easier to spot someone having issues with their Hondas/Fords/Mazdas because they’ll most likely be the only ones among their peers using those brands. At the end of the day, take care of your car whether it’s a Toyota or a BMW, and it will take care of you!

RainValley:
Really? I hardly see any of your government agencies or officials commissioning Honda's. Why? Why are they always coming for Toyota's?

Why are the Northern governors not buying Honda pickups for your security agencies? Bros Honda is not doing well anywhere in Nigeria.

This is actually easy. Toyota makes more SUVs and trucks than Honda. Apart from the Pilot and CR-V, and Ridgeline, I can’t think of any other Honda SUV or trucks. Generally, Toyota are much better than Honda in terms of SUVs and trucks, they’re big on SUV and trucks. Toyota alone has RAV4, Highlander, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Forerunner, Hilux, Tundra, Tacoma, etc to choose from. And we all know that your politicians and Govt officials don’t buy mainstream SUVs like RAV4s and Highlanders and CR-Vs and Pilots!!!

dru23:
Yes I get you when u said comparison to other brand in its class...... Now word "could" should not have been mention.

When comparing Toyota to other brands in its class been cheaper. There is no second guessing could, might be or maybe etc .. Toyota is expensive brand new.....

Now apart from the recall issues Toyota had with some of the cars in the past and a few recalls here and there.

Since Toyota is still most preferable car brand in the world. People that buy Toyota brand new from tend to keep them for a long time. The believe is that once bought brand new and paying the extra cost than its competitors. The car will last time without breaking down or until they get tired of it ..

Some of these owners will past it down to their kids. And the most important thing is the low yearly maintenance cost that attracts buyer. Most Toyota owners will tell you all you need to do is follow owners manual and do oil change.. That is the thing with Toyota cars follow owners and do the require oil change........

And this why Toyota cars last they way it last today . This is why car owners in Nigeria are able to enjoy. The cars are well maintain in abroad and when it gets to Nigeria it gets abuse imagine if it was abused before it got to naija. There won't be anything left at all for Nigerians to enjoy...........keep in mind Toyota assures buyers if maintain properly the car will last the intended time period.........

The only car that is cheaper and durable in its class could be the Honda cars and Hyundai .. The Hyundai are sneaking up in prices too

Honda is not cheaper than Toyota sir. The average Honda cars are usually around the same price with a Toyota or slightly more expensive. The sticker price of a fully loaded top of the line 2017 Honda Accord was over 34k dollars. The sticker price of a fully loaded Toyota Camry of that year was 31k plus. In the US, Hondas hold their resale value just as much as Toyotas, in fact even more in some cases. It’s only in Nigeria that Toyota is considerably higher than Honda in terms of price because Nigeria is just a weird place.

zed7:
Very good car indeed. Just like you, I switched from Camry to the Accord.. I've been enjoying mine for two years straight, just oil change only.

I use original Mobil 1, imported by a friend. However, I believe the other brands like Castrol don't have as much fake in the market. Those are also very good oil.

As for maintenance tips, do your regular oil change. If using synthetic, once or twice a year is fine, depending on your drive frequency. Always watch out for unusual noise and attend to it immediately. Get a scanner also. Cheers

Thank you for your response. I’m trying to get Mobil 1 0W-20 but to no avail. So I saw someone who recommended Honda Genuine. He said it is imported from the USA directly. What about that one? Is it a good oil? I will post the picture of it.