Hmmm.

Just got a Nigerian used Accord 06. Don’t even know where to start from as a first time car owner and learner.

sekzy99:
Hmmm.

Just got a Nigerian used Accord 06. Don’t even know where to start from as a first time car owner and learner.

Has the leg pulled?
Or the transmission is misbehaving?

jceesquare:

Has the leg pulled?
Or the transmission is misbehaving?

None.


Boss you wicked ooo. Car wey I just got two days ago.

Hello Honda people. I’m just being curious here. I know thermostat and radiator fans are supposed to work intermittently but from my observation from my previous cars, the coming on and shutting off of the fans and thermostat usually takes sometime in between. But I notice with this my new Honda Accord, that the intervals are very short. I’m taking about every minute or two minutes or so, especially when the AC is turned on. I initially thought that maybe there was something wrong with the AC system but I took it to my AC man and he said there’s no issue. He said it’s the way the thermostat of the car works by design. Since I have no other person that uses Honda for me to ask, I decided to come here and ask you guys if this is correct. The AC cools perfectly (apart from a weird low whistling sound when the AC is very cool) and the car doesn’t overheat or anything.


Secondly, I notice that the exhaust sounds like something that is clogged, like it’s not breathing freely. When I touch the inside of the exhaust pipes, I notice dry black smoke inside. When I just got the car, there was a check engine light and we scanned it and found a P034 code stating that the catalytic converter bank 1 efficiency low. The dealer told me that the cat in the car is not the OEM one and that might be the cause. So I got the OEM from Honda Josh, we installed it and the CEL went off. But I still notice that the car consumes too much fuel and the exhaust sound is not normal with the black dry soot in the tailpipe. Please what could possibly be the issue? The car is a 2016 Honda Accord.

Tucode:
Hello Honda people. I’m just being curious here. I know thermostat and radiator fans are supposed to work intermittently but from my observation from my previous cars, the coming on and shutting off of the fans and thermostat usually takes sometime in between. But I notice with this my new Honda Accord, that the intervals are very short. I’m taking about every minute or two minutes or so, especially when the AC is turned on. I initially thought that maybe there was something wrong with the AC system but I took it to my AC man and he said there’s no issue. He said it’s the way the thermostat of the car works by design. Since I have no other person that uses Honda for me to ask, I decided to come here and ask you guys if this is correct. The AC cools perfectly (apart from a weird low whistling sound when the AC is very cool) and the car doesn’t overheat or anything.


Secondly, I notice that the exhaust sounds like something that is clogged, like it’s not breathing freely. When I touch the inside of the exhaust pipes, I notice dry black smoke inside. When I just got the car, there was a check engine light and we scanned it and found a P034 code stating that the catalytic converter bank 1 efficiency low. The dealer told me that the cat in the car is not the OEM one and that might be the cause. So I got the OEM from Honda Josh, we installed it and the CEL went off. But I still notice that the car consumes too much fuel and the exhaust sound is not normal with the black dry soot in the tailpipe. Please what could possibly be the issue? The car is a 2016 Honda Accord.

Any check light or code?

jceesquare:

Any check light or code?

No. No check engine light no codes

Tucode:


No. No check engine light no codes

What's your long term fuel trims like?

jceesquare:

What's your long term fuel trims like?

I’m getting around 5km per liter. The car is rated 10km per liter City driving.

Tucode:


I’m getting around 5km per liter. The car is rated 10km per liter City driving.

Just have it at the back of your mind that it would almost impossible to get manufacturers mpg here in Nigeria.
Check your fuel trim readings with a scan tool and post figures here.

jceesquare:

Just have it at the back of your mind that it would almost impossible to get manufacturers mpg here in Nigeria.
Check your fuel trim readings with a scan tool and post figures here.

Of course. I know that. But more than 50% difference, something is definitely wrong. Anyways, the check engine light eventually came up and it says the Mass Air Flow sensor is the problem. Code came up with P0420 Catalytic converter again. I don't know why.

Tucode:


Of course. I know that. But more than 50% difference, something is definitely wrong. Anyways, the check engine light eventually came up and it says the Mass Air Flow sensor is the problem. Code came up with P0420 Catalytic converter again. I don't know why.

There you go

My Honda Accord 2008 2.4l car just had the engine sump replaced, and now car vibrates excessively in drive but not in park or reverse or neutral. I've had the mechanics check the engine mounts and the two that were damaged were replaced.

The car wasn't vibrating in drive like this before, and I'm at a loss as to the reason, as engine mounts seem to be fine all round.

Also, there's this dull clunky sound when turning the wheels at low speeds that started after the front absorbers were changed (the engine sump and strut change were done together). I don't know what the issue is also, as the shafts and ball joints have been checked and nothing was found.

Pls any ideas as to what these issues are and how to resolve them will be appreciated.

jceesquare:

There you go

Yeah fixed it. Finally, I notice humming sound from the suspension which I suspect is the wheel bearings but the thing is I only hear this sound when I’m driving at a particular road. When I get on the main express, I hardly hear it. I have driven another car through that road and I don’t hear that noise. Now I’m confused. The road is a newly tarred road.

Tucode:


Yeah fixed it. Finally, I notice humming sound from the suspension which I suspect is the wheel bearings but the thing is I only hear this sound when I’m driving at a particular road. When I get on the main express, I hardly hear it. I have driven another car through that road and I don’t hear that noise. Now I’m confused. The road is a newly tarred road.

The fact that you drove another car through same road and didn't hear anything does not mean there's something wrong with your car.
The tyres, and noise insulations on the other car may not be the same with yours.

theadeola:
My Honda Accord 2008 2.4l car just had the engine sump replaced, and now car vibrates excessively in drive but not in park or reverse or neutral. I've had the mechanics check the engine mounts and the two that were damaged were replaced.

The car wasn't vibrating in drive like this before, and I'm at a loss as to the reason, as engine mounts seem to be fine all round.

Also, there's this dull clunky sound when turning the wheels at low speeds that started after the front absorbers were changed (the engine sump and strut change were done together). I don't know what the issue is also, as the shafts and ball joints have been checked and nothing was found.

Pls any ideas as to what these issues are and how to resolve them will be appreciated.

If the same mechanic that fixed the car and gave it those issues is the one carrying out the checks, then he might not find the faults.
Take your car to another competent technician to have it checked.

jceesquare:

The fact that you drove another car through same road and didn't hear anything does not mean there's something wrong with your car.
The tyres, and noise insulations on the other car may not be the same with yours.

Do the kind of tires contribute to road noise? I mean can you get a much quieter ride if you use a specific kind of tires? If so, what kind of tires in Nigeria would that be?

Tucode:


Do the kind of tires contribute to road noise? I mean can you get a much quieter ride if you use a specific kind of tires? If so, what kind of tires in Nigeria would that be?

Yes they do.
Buy all season tyres from major brands with rib tread pattern as they transfer lesser road noise unlike the ones with block patterns.

jceesquare:

Yes they do.
Buy all season tyres from major brands with rib tread pattern as they transfer lesser road noise unlike the ones with block patterns.

Oh okay. I did not know this. I lost one of the tires that came with the car in a minor accident, so I got one tokunbo Good Year tire ( that’s the brand that came with it) to replace it. I only just noticed now that the tokunbo tire is All Seasons tire while the others are regular ones and both have different thread patterns. Could this be the reason for the noise generally?

Tucode:


Oh okay. I did not know this. I lost one of the tires that came with the car in a minor accident, so I got one tokunbo Good Year tire ( that’s the brand that came with it) to replace it. I only just noticed now that the tokunbo tire is All Seasons tire while the others are regular ones and both have different thread patterns. Could this be the reason for the noise generally?

I can't tell from here.

theadeola:
My Honda Accord 2008 2.4l car just had the engine sump replaced, and now car vibrates excessively in drive but not in park or reverse or neutral. I've had the mechanics check the engine mounts and the two that were damaged were replaced.

The car wasn't vibrating in drive like this before, and I'm at a loss as to the reason, as engine mounts seem to be fine all round.

Also, there's this dull clunky sound when turning the wheels at low speeds that started after the front absorbers were changed (the engine sump and strut change were done together). I don't know what the issue is also, as the shafts and ball joints have been checked and nothing was found.

Pls any ideas as to what these issues are and how to resolve them will be appreciated.

If the engine mounts are good, the next suspect will be the strut you replaced. By strut, do you mean the shock absorber or the entire suspension assembly? You might need to take a second look at what was replaced. Inferior shocks can contribute significantly to vibration in the 2.4L accord.

GreekDon:


If the engine mounts are good, the next suspect will be the strut you replaced. By strut, do you mean the shock absorber or the entire suspension assembly? You might need to take a second look at what was replaced. Inferior shocks can contribute significantly to vibration in the 2.4L accord.

I replaced just the struts with prt struts. They are not low quality parts.

I took the car for alignment today to see if alignment was causing the clunky sounds. The alignment man said based on his experience, the spider bearing (what our kazeems call Boris) was slacked for both sides. He said to replace them. I asked a technician if slacked or damaged spider bearings could cause both the clunky sounds and the vibration only I'm drive. Reverse is so silent I have to check if the car is still on by looking at the rpm.

But drive

theadeola:


I replaced just the struts with prt struts. They are not low quality parts.

I took the car for alignment today to see if alignment was causing the clunky sounds. The alignment man said based on his experience, the spider bearing (what our kazeems call Boris) was slacked for both sides. He said to replace them. I asked a technician if slacked or damaged spider bearings could cause both the clunky sounds and the vibration only I'm drive. Reverse is so silent I have to check if the car is still on by looking at the rpm.

But drive

A bad spider bearing will make a clunky sound when shifting from D to R and R to D.

Good evening boss

Pls my car started acting up this evening, vibrates when idle on drive, and picking up is sluggish, if I press the turtle after being idle, rpm get to 2 sometimes before moving reasonably. However after sometime, it stopped vibrating on idle, but the movement is still not solid.

I don't have a scanner would have scanned.

Corrolla 09

jceesquare:

A bad spider bearing will make a clunky sound when shifting from D to R and R to D.

tobiyclassy:
Good evening boss

Pls my car started acting up this evening, vibrates when idle on drive, and picking up is sluggish, if I press the turtle after being idle, rpm get to 2 sometimes before moving reasonably. However after sometime, it stopped vibrating on idle, but the movement is still not solid.

I don't have a scanner would have scanned.

Corrolla 09

Meet a technician with a scanner to scan both engine and transmission

jceesquare:

A bad spider bearing will make a clunky sound when shifting from D to R and R to D.

Okay. But is that the only symptom, especially since the both sides seem to be worn out.

theadeola:


Okay. But is that the only symptom, especially since the both sides seem to be worn out.

No. It will also cause vibration while accelerating

Good evening house. Please those using Honda city 2007 model,how do you resolve your gear issues ranging from vibration when trying moving to gear failure?

jceesquare:

No. It will also cause vibration while accelerating

Ah, exactly. This happens and seems to make the car a bit slower than normal. Is spider bearing the same as output shaft bearing?

I've called a mechanic to come and examine it. I wanted to be sure of what the issue was before calling anyone. I don't want wahala.

Any Honda mechanic in Ibadan pls.

No, not the Honda place abeg.

jceesquare:

Check all the mounts in the car (engine and transmission) and replace if bad.
Also check your drive shaft and replace anyone with clearance or excessive play.

my engine mounts are bad. But one honda mechanic said its the solenoid. He said that sounds is delayed shift. You hit the gas before it shift enters so it will use force to enter hense the sound. So i just change the solenoid I didn’t have the money now for engine mounts, as i’m tired of buying engine mounts. They don’t last more than a mount, the way honda designed their engine mount it’s bound to wear so fast.

Good evening house, please i need help. My car is honda civic 2008 model. Last year when i engage my gear to either drive or reverse, the car would start shaking and making sound, it was later discover that the fault is a faulty adjuster belt which i change by buying complete belt adjuster but still yet the signs and symptoms continue so my mechanic advise i remove the adjuster belt completely which he did and bought a shorter belt. After this i stop experiencing those noise and the shakes or vibrations but my belt easily worn out and woulf be making squeak noise. So now have decided again to go back to my belt adjuster cos driving without the adjuster is affecting even my battery, today i bought a new adjuster and also the symptoms of the vibration when engage in drive or reverse resurface.
Please house i am looking for a solution if anyone have please give me on how to stop the vibration when engage in drive and reverse, thanks

Please need help and suggestions on honda accord 04 model. Replaced the transmission after the previous one failed and opted for total matic 4 transmission fluid. However after driving for about 1000km, the transmission fluid drops significantly and has to be topped up. Mechanic has checked and replaced seals, problem remains but the transmission remains dry without any sign of leak.
Considering the constant shortage, is it advisable to use a cheaper oando dextron 3 as top-up considering the different formulation or is there a permanent solution to this constant shortage?

I am experiencing this issue in my Honda Accord 2010.

I have changed the switch, change gear oil and also checked the wires but my D is still blinking

Please anyone with help.

I am tired

jacobian01:
thanks sir, I just changed my oil. And the technician helped me to wash the solenoid too. The blinking still continues. He got one tokunbo from gate but the blinking in D4 didn't stop. The code showing is P0843 and P0848